The Old Foodie

I came across a recipe in one of my folders the other day for "Fillet of Beef Wellington" - one of the first "classy" dishes I made when I first started giving dinner parties in the seventies. "How retro!" I thought, then realised that if I decided to cook it again one time when my adult children visit for a meal, it might even seem very clever and therefore modern to them. What is retro to you? I'd be interested to hear, because it is always fun rediscovering old favourites.

Yes: though not common in the US, Beeton is something of a national cookbook in Great Britain -- people from there have referred to "Mrs. Beeton" as a household phrase. (A bit like Escoffier in France, though his book is aimed at professional kitchens. More like Molokhovets in Russia.) In the US the closest parallel I've found -- which did not stay popular through the present day though it was phenomenally so in the 19th century and is still very useful -- was Eliza Leslie. The Hesses (ISBN 0252068750) depict it as the main US cookbook of the 19th century. K. G. Bitting's standard US gastronomic bibliography describes scores of editions of Leslie's books through 1881. Her original is still, conveniently, available in paperback: Eliza Leslie, Directions for Cookery, Philadelphia, 1837. 1999 Dover facsimile reprint, ISBN 0486406148 . (In case it's of interest.) -- MH ← There are quite a lot of old books available online. Here are a few gleanings from Gutenberg (in addition to Mrs B) - Cassell's Vegetarian cookery (1891) - The Indian Cookery Book (c1900) - Joe Tilden's recipes for Epicures (1907) - 365 Foreign Dishes (1908) - Reform Cookery (1909) Also from <a href="http://www.harvestfields.ca/CookBooks/index.htm">Harvestfields site</a> there are, among other offerings: - The Cook's Decameron (1901, a book of "Italian" recipes) - George Washington Carver recipes (1918) - The Boke of Cokery (1591) - The Book of Fruits and Flowers (1653) - The Country Housewife's Companion (1750) And of course there are lots of wonderful offerings from <a href="http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/ ">Feeding America Project</a> I use all of these regularly in researching for my blog. All free. No shelf-space required!

Easy solution to that one - let it chill, lift off the slab of beautiful duck fat (use for other purposes such as roasting potatoes ...). It is worth it, honest!

Thanks for the advice tetsujustin and whisks. Last nights batch was significantly better after prolonged kneading - it seems that the rule of thumb is knead until exhausted, then continue for the same length of time again. I will try to source some higher gluten flour here in Brisbane, and post a report.

The most important thing - whatever you do with the basic duck - is to make duck stock with the bones. Cook it down, concentrate it and freeze it in small containers. Makes the best risotto (esp with porcini mushrooms), Asian-style noodle soups etc.

Thanks for pointing me to that thread, I hadn't found it myself. The ingredients are pretty similar to what I've been using - but I cannot anywhere near approximate that extreme stretchiness. Surely there must be something in the technique. What is it?

I want to make silky, stretchy roti cenai dough like this guy (a pale imitation would do!). How do I get it so incredibly elastic? Is it the flour (wheat, rice, corn?) or the method? (I know, and a lot of practice - but I did say a pale imitation would do for starters!) I looked back over the eGullet feature on Indian breads from a good while back, and there is some good stuff there, but nothing on this exact technique.

The garlic oil keeps really well - it solidifies a bit in the fridge, but soon "melts". The taste is wonderfully mellow. Sometimes I over-roast the garlic (sometimes accidentally, sometimes not!) and with some EVO it makes a sort of smooth puree. I guess in an ideal kitchen there would be a bit of both - complete cloves to toss into all sorts of dishes like roasted veges and chicken casseroles, and some mash or puree for others. I love it in hummus and other bean dips. I suspect fresh garlic in oil would not keep so well due to the water content in the fresh plant. I know I once made some lemon grass oil, and because I aimed for very intense flavour, I put loads of fresh lemon grass in, and after a while it just sort of went ugly and fermented. The same thing happened with parmesan oil when I had too much cheese for the amount of rind. The flavoured wine idea sounds great. I've made lots of flavoured vinegars, but he wines would be good in sweet dishes.

I think another thing to be taken into accounts is WHEN you eat. There does seem to be some evidence that eating most of your daily calorie intake at night is more fat-producing than the reverse, which makes biological sense - a bit like filling up the tank of your car before making it work for the day. Which is saying the same as the old proverb "breakfast like a king, lunch like a prince, dinner like a pauper", or , as I read it somewhere (an Iranian version????) - "eat breakfast alone, take lunch with your friend, and give your dinner to your enemy". Just a thought.

I like to do a lot of roasted garlic in olive oil, it keeps well and the oil is fantastic. Also when ginger is very fresh with almost no peel, I buy a lot, chop it in the processor, and cover it with sherry. It keeps indefinitely, you can make it as chunky or smooth as you like, and the sherry is great in stir-fries etc.

Hello fou, you can give me your quince jelly recipe, if you will! I have not had much experience cooking quinces, although I love them - I think I am a bit intimidated by them. I wish someone would start a "Things to do with quinces" thread! What other chutney do you make when you dont make mango? I only have one recipe for marmalade – it doesn’t matter which citrus I use, the proportions of sugar and fruit, and the method are the same. I do have some “tricks” that I have learned, that make the process easier and I think result in better flavour. So – here is the generic method, with some random thoughts thrown in: 1. I only make small batches at a time – 3 or 4 jars worth. Small batches means shorter cooking times at both stages, so therefore better flavour. Even if I have a large amount of fruit I do several small batches (an added bonus of this is that if you over- or under-cook one batch, it is not all spoiled) 2. I almost always freeze the fruit first – just wash it, bag it, and stick it in the freezer. This makes for convenience as sometimes fruit is in season when you are too busy to make the jam, but also once it is frozen the fruit is (a) easier to cut up – especially useful with those pesky little cumquats, which are a real labour of love, and (b) the fruit takes a lot less cooking because the rind is already soft – so again, better flavour. I read this trick many years ago in a magazine article – the writer said she was cleaning up after a large party and found a large bowl of lemon wedges which hadn’t made their way into drinks. Being unwilling to waste them she stuck them in the freezer, and some time later decided to try marmalading them. 3. Any “daggy” bits of the fruit, such as the trimmings from the stem ends, and the pips etc, plus any leftover lemon rinds which I have also been storing in the freezer, I put in another small pan and cook it fairly hard while I am slicing the good fruit – I just keep on tossing in the trimmings that I dont want to appear in the final version. When I am ready to do the final stage, I just pour this through a sieve into the mixture and include it in the measuring. Adds flavour and pectin – although pectin isn’t usually a problem with citrus jams. 4. I know that because cumquat slicing is labour intensive, some people put the fruit in the blender or processor – this works well and the flavour is good, but the appearance (to my mind) is not so good. I cut the cumquats up, painstaking as it is, because I am making this for the special people in my life who are marmalade connoisseurs. I think the blender method would be fine for fund-raising or similar efforts. 5. I use as little water as possible – often none at all. If the fruit is juicy, it doesn’t need it, and we are talking about superb flavour, extra-special marmalade here, not an imitation of weak generic commercial marmalade, aren’t we? If I add water, it is just the minimum to cover the fruit; sometimes I add extra citrus juice. This can be a way to play with flavours too, although I usually like to keep them “pure”. 6. At this point, if you dont have time, you can leave the fruit soaking overnight to assist in softening the rind – again, the theory of minimising boiling time and maximising flavour. 7. Cook the fruit (sliced rind, pip-free pulp, and juice) until the rind is just tender. Measure the volume (include the extra pectin-liquid if you have made it), and add an equal volume of sugar. Sometimes you can get away with ¾ cup of sugar to fruit if you have made it with minimal water, but any less and you compromise jelling and keeping qualities. I usually tip the boiled fruit into a large bowl, and rinse out the preserving pan before I put the fruit and sugar back in – I have an idea that it helps reduce the risk of sticking and burning. 8. At this point you can again leave it overnight (or even a couple of days, if you are busy) – the sugar will slowly dissolve, especially if you have added it to the hot fruit. 9. When and only when the sugar is fully dissolved, turn up the heat and take out the stirring spoon. The rules of jam-boiling say “thou shalt not stir while the jam is jamming.”. I must admit that if I am in fear of the jam sticking and burning to the bottom edge of the pot, around the edge, I do sometimes very slowly and carefully stir around this edge with a wooden spoon to loosen any potential sticking bits. The jam gods have not punished me yet, and I justify it on the grounds that the risk is greater when you are making a small quantity. 10. Skim off the scummy stuff from time to time with a perforated spoon, as it boils – it is perfectly edible but spoils the appearance. 11. What you are waiting and watching for now is the magical “setting point”. There are all sorts of tricks to tell you when this has happened, but I use the cold saucer waiting in the freezer method. Periodically drop a drop or two of the jam onto the cold saucer and let it cool for a moment. If it leaves a track when you push your finger through it, it is done. You need to underestimate it, as the jam keeps cooking as it cools in the jars. One other clue is that the boiling jam starts to sound different. The bubbles make a larger “plopping” noise when it is getting close. 12. When it is done, pour it into your sterilised HOT jars, wipe the rims, put the lids on tight, and leave to cool. A lot of experts advise that you immediately invert the jars for 2 minutes then restore them to right way up – the idea being that you “scald” the inside of the lid, and reduce the risk of mould. I dont usually bother, and cant say its been an issue, and in any case jam-mould is not harmful to humans, you just scrape it off. 13. You can add a little whiskey or brandy or whatever before you bottle the jam - just stir it in carefully when you have taken it off the heat. Have fun.

Is "extended shelf life" an issue for home-made chocolate truffles at your place? dont they all get eaten within 23 minutes or less??

The citrus is starting to look good here in the markets, so my mind is turning to thoughts of marmalade. I love preserving things - must be the earth-mother in me. I make marmalade every year - always cumquat and Seville orange, sometimes lemon, and also strawberry jam ("jelly" to those of you "over there"!). Often for Christmas gifts I do liqueur fruits like apricots in Frangelico or brandy, or prunes in port. I see the thriving Limoncello thread and will definitely make this soon. On the savoury side, mango chutney is a reasonably regular staple here - mangoes are usually plentiful here although the last season was terrible. I'd be interested to know what you all enjoy preserving. Maybe we can swap recipes?

Why not make a syrup from some really good quality dark chocolate - like Valrhona - with boiling water, and no sugar? That would avoid the powdery residue possibility and make the sweetness of the final drink easier to control.

What if there was only ONE remaining empty table in the restaurant ? and the waitstaff had the temerity to seat the "other couple" at that table? Would the "intimate dinner" of the complainer still have been ruined? If the intimacy was so fragile, why eat out in a restaurant which might be SO busy that there were "other couples" at ALL the adjacent tables?. Some people need to get a life.

Thanks for the plug and the compliment, fou de Bassan, but if anyone reading this checks out my posting today (May 31st) - "Grubs and Roots" - they may not go "Yum!" !!!!

There are a lot of punch recipes in Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery (circa 1870’s) Under the heading “Punch” there are recipes for: A la Francaise (2 variations); à la Régence; à la Reine; à la Romaine, iced; à la Victoria; also Punch, Burnt; Punch, English; Punch for Hot Weather; Punch, Glasgow; Punch, Hot (2 variations); Punch in Haste; Punch, Milk; Punch, Poney; Punch, Whiskey. Given separately under their respective headings are: Cambridge, Milk; George the Fourth; Gin; Granito (Iced); Harrowgate; Iced; Imperial; Milk; Norfolk; Orange; Oxford; Pine Apple; Regent’s; Roman, Iced; Royal; Sherbert for; Shrub (several recipes); Shrub Rum; Usquebach; Verder of Milk; Wine; Yorkshire. Also there are recipes for Punch icing, jelly, drops (boiled candy), and sauce for sweet puddings. If any of these are of interest, I will email them or post them here.

I know there are such people - but I always find it difficult to understand how someone can love food, but not be interested in cooking. The original "Official Foodie Handbook" (mine is a 1985 ed) by Ann Barr and Paul Levy says "Foodies consider food to be an art, on level with painting or drama" and "The way you tell a Foodie" is by listening. The mouth will declare its passion. To overhear a Foodie talk to another Foodie is like overhearing lovers ... "

Drain them well, dip in melted very good quality chocolate, have with coffee, or without coffee, or with friends, or on your own .... Drink remaining armagnac. Another idea: I did once put a jar of figs in a coffee liqueur that had been in my cupboard for about 2 years into a fruitcake. I poured more of the juice over the cake when it came out of the oven. It was very dark, very rich, very fruity and very moist. I think this would be a waste for the prunes in armagac though.

I presume that no-one at eGullet suffers from cibophobia (A fear of food ) or dipsophobia (A fear of drinking alcohol) , in fact many of us are barathrums (A person who eats like they were a bottomless pit) and practice (or wish we could practice) abligurition (Excessive spending on food and drink) and maybe even accubation -(The practice of eating or drinking while lying down) I found these and some other lovely food-words in the wonderful Grandiloquent Dictionary at http://www.islandnet.com/~egbird/dict/dict.htm There are some other phobias listed – how about alliumphobia (A fear of garlic)? That would be a truly terrifying condition to live with. I've only got to the letter C so far, but I'm sure there are lots more.

Alan Davidson in "The Oxford Companion" says "avocado leaves, toasted and ground, are occasionally used as a mild spice; those of one variety have an anise-like flavour". Anyone tried this? It might be good sprinkled on the avo flesh.

A good index is paramount for me. I have one particular cookbook that I love/hate. It is "Spice" by Christine Manfield - a beautiful looking and feeling book with fantastic photos and great recipes. But: the top of each page starts with the method (steps 1,2,3 etc) - no title. Then there is a large white space (arty but a waste of potential recipe content) THEN the ingredient list, THEN the title of the recipe, THEN a little description of the dish. It drives me crazy, every time I go to the page indicated in the index, I start reading under the title, then turn the page to find I am reading the method for the next recipe. I dont use it as much as I would because of that annoying little design feature. Whatever other stylistic tricks the designers wish to impose, surely the title of the recipe should come first? I do have to add that I have a fondness for the old fashioned "household manual", with every topic listed alphabetically whether recipe, cleaning hint, home remedy, or essential fact. There is one late seventeenth century one by William Salmon called the "Household Companion" - the entry for Gammon of Bacon comes just before Gangrene, how to cure. Love it. You dont find that sort of hint in modern books.

Thankyou Lady T - This could be me, absolutely - although there is no Hispanic market handy in Brisbane ... Seeing as the existing language, rich as it is, can't quite do it for us, how about a "quality-ist" who is lucky enough to have the disposeable income to practice quality- ism?

I've had it in Indonesia - as a chocolate avocado drink. It seems to be very popular there (or at least it was where I was, in Aceh) . It was just blended to a smooth puree and sort of layered in a tall glass with some sort of very sweet chocolate drink, and ice. I love avocado, but was not too sure about this, but not to offend the household, I drank it and it was surprisingly good. I had a similar thing in a cafe another day but it was layered with pureed mango.

Rendered "meat fat" also makes fantastic pastry for savoury pies - not just the hot water crust for English pork pies, but you can also use it for a shortcrust type pastry. I've never tried chicken fat this way, but I will definitely try it next time I am prevailed upon by my family to make chicken pies.