Carolyn Tillie

Swan's Oyster Bar is one of the oldest establishments in the city. It is a small bar seating-only restaurant which is only open for lunch and there is always a line. I much prefer Swan to the more famous Hog Island Oyster Bar both for quality of fish, atmosphere, and because I really hate Hog Island's hog-wash.

Sad news, indeed. Thanks, Sam! It was reported in Eater here on the 24th but I am reading it as the fact that it may be some time before we can have Pilar's cooking again...

I stumbled past David's Delicatessen [474 Geary, near Union Square] from a Doctor's appointment and thought I had a perfect opportunity to get some home-made chicken soup to soothe my antibiotic-required strep throat and flu. Being the nice girlfriend I am, I thought I would order a pastrami sandwich on rye with swiss cheese for my BF since I was there, as well as a small container of chopped liver (comfort food for the sick!). I got home and opened my $9.00(!!!) container of chicken soup to discover thin, watery broth, two chunks of cauliflower and one chunk of chicken. One taste of the flavorless broth and into the trash it went. Needing to eat *something*, I opened the chopped liver only to discover it was completely turned -- you can smell the smell of rotten food immediately and this definitely had that putrid, sharp aroma. Lastly, the BF opened his sandwich to discover that no only was there no cheese, but that the meat (while piled quite high), was mostly fat. How does this place stay in business?

Hardly great, but if you have a strong stomach, there are several "dinner" scenes that are quite memorable in Peter Jackson's Dead-Alive. This one is on You-Tube. Sorry, it is 10 minutes long and the dinner sequence is the last five minutes. WARNING: Only for those not seriously grossed out.... ------------------------------ Also, here is the famous Fig Scene from Women in Love.

There is a beautiful scene in Diva where Serge explains to his young protegé how to properly butter a French baguette. "This is my Sartori -- and the French are envied the world over for this..." stunning Also, the fig-eating scene in Ken Russell's Women in Love. Incomparably erotic.

I'm going on three or four different trips this year and one of them is a cruise around the Caribbean... Not my choice, I assure you -- something my sisters' families are doing and it is the first time I have ever been invited along on a family vacation. I'm going for the family and not the food, but I will certainly report back. Oh yeah - and I'll probably bring my own wine...

I couldn't disagree more... A train-wreck of a meal -- actually, quite possibly one of the worst I have had in months. Shocking compared to the Canteen meal I had on Friday evening (which I need to get written up). With Canteen a third the price for three courses with wine pairings, I was completely blown away by Canteen as being what Chez Panisse is thought of by most people. ← While we don't entirely share the same opinion about MM, we do about Canteen - a true jewel. The impression I have at MM that seems to be supported by your report is that one must be careful (or more likely lucky) when ordering anything other than dessert. I may not have been thrilled with my savory plates at MM, but they were good and not the abominations that you portrayed from yours. My dining companions plates were markedly better than my own. The combination of reports may indicate a greater degree of inconsistency than may be desired in a restaurant of that level. ← Doc - let me know the next time you are in town. I'd love to eat with you (seriously!) as you seem to get considerably better meals in this town as a visitor than I do as a local. I recall you enjoyed your meal at the Ritz as well... Or perhaps I am just the curse that makes restaurants go bad!

No - as they were cleared away by busboys versus waitstaff. They mostly just motioned to make sure I was not eating any more; but not WHY. To his credit, one waiter asked about the pork after it had been cleared and I indicated it was very tough. He said he would notify the kitchen but I never heard anything after that...

I couldn't disagree more... A train-wreck of a meal -- actually, quite possibly one of the worst I have had in months. Shocking compared to the Canteen meal I had on Friday evening (which I need to get written up). With Canteen a third the price for three courses with wine pairings, I was completely blown away by Canteen as being what Chez Panisse is thought of by most people.

Carlsbad makes a very good point. Most folks in the city who are celebrating an anniversary or want romance, tend to go to places like Fleur de Lys, Clementine, or Chapeau -- all very French. The other romantic spot I have been taken to and enjoyed is Bix; fabulous atmosphere, very good food, and the best tartare in the city. I am happier going there just for two or three appetizers versus the entrees. Quite honestly for food, I continue to be most impressed with the food at Canteen and the new Kabuki Cinema restaurant (I've only eaten there once and will be writing it up when I have a few meals under my belt). I ate at Canteen last night and had there been white tablecloths and candles, it would be the most impressive offering in the city (what I think Chez Panisse USED to be like). I also *consistently* take out-of-town guests to Aziza as it continues to be my favorite restaurant to Wow people and have a very, very impressive meal. In thinking back over Ritz, Coi, Danko, and Mina, each one offered a detraction in their food, service, or conceptualization and ultimately disappointed.

Working my way through "the best that San Francisco has to offer," I was almost ashamed that I had not yet visited Michael Mina. I almost felt I did not need to, as my visit to his Stonehill Tavern last August was far from memorable. But I hate to judge any restaurant chain on only one visit so I made the excursion last evening to Mina's San Francisco branch for a pre-theater excursion. Dining alone, I opted for the more extensive, 6-course tasting menu instead of the limiting 3-course/3-taste option. The evening's offerings: Amuse - a demitasse of creamy porcini soup topped with crème fraîche. With as cold as it has been, accompanied with some Iron Horse Michael Mina Blanc de Blanc bubbly, it was a nice start; warm, rich, and comforting. Albacore Tataki - served with Japanese Cucumber, pickled radish, tamari vinaigrette. The wine pairing was a Maximin Grünhaus Riesling Kabinett 'Herrenberg' Ruwer, 2006. This was a cold preparation on the fish; previously grilled for a crust, but then chilled with a raw interior and topped with a sweet, dark glaze. The cucumber/radish combination were paper-thin slices which ringed the dish. These were more decorative than adding anything to the flavors. Honestly, the wine pairing for this dish was an abomination. The wine was exquisite with a hint of a lime nose and a sweet, compelling flavor, but far too sweet to accompany the sweet glaze on the fish. A Grüner Veltliner would have been a far better choice. Grilled Spanish Mackeral - served with Vandovan curry, granny smith apple, and wood sorrel paired with Joseph Matrot Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru, Burgundy, 1998. To start, the wine was creamy with a hint of wood and citrus and a faint layer of butterscotch; rich and unctuous. The fish was a hot presentation, grilled atop a layer of creamy curry. While perfectly grilled and prepared, I would have preferred more sauce and definitely more apples to accompany the piece. The apples were a tiny brunoise, and then, only two or three tiny cubes at that. This one went back mostly half un-eaten. California Squab - served with foie gras, toasted farro, and Lacinot kale. This wine pairing was L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 'Petits Plets' 1er Cru, Burgundy, 2005. The wine had a strong, bright berry aroma and was young on the mouth. It paired well with the dish which was ultimately the winner of the evening. The squab was placed next to a 1" square of seared foie and both sat separated by the greens atop a bed of farro. The sauce was rich and the perfectly-prepared squab was a nice contrast against the meltingly elegant foie. Kurabuto Pork Loin - served with crispy belly, canary tongue greens, red onion marmalade paired with Coudoulet de Beaucastel Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, 2003. The wine produced a nose of fabulous dark fruit, black raspberry, and a hint of dried herb. There was an earthy entry with a eucalyptus finish. This is an astonishingly fabulous wine and some research will be done so acquire some as I think it will taste amazing in a decade or so. This was the heartbreak dish of the evening; the loin was so tough has to require no less than eight to ten passes of the knife to cut a bite (yes, I counted as I sawed). It was also too remarkably similar to the squab with a pedestrian protein being served next to a contrasting square of melting fat and in this case, the crispy belly was barely that. Honestly, when I want to eat fat, I either order foie or marrow bones. I only ate a bite or two of this and sent it back most un-eaten. Travesty. Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Loin - served with socca, baby artichokes, and Castelveltrano olives. The wine pairing was Qupé Syrah Cuvée Michael Mina, Santa Barbara County, 2006. Two loins, each one had more than a fingernail-sized hunk of fat within which had to be butchered out. What was edible was tender but I didn't like having to work for it. The accompaniment of artichokes and olives was odd. It worked well with the Syrah which was horrifically too young to drink. Dark cherry and molasses, there was a clean mint hint on the entry but turned harsh with alcohol in its youth. Running out of time, I could not opt for the Apple Tart Tartin sweet and had only the cheese offering: Blue Del Moncenisio - served with Aleppo oil, celery sorbet, and Marcona almonds. The wine pairing was Charles Hours Jurançon 'Clos Uroulat', Pyrenees, France, 2004. This is a lovely sweet wine, a relatively closed nose due to its chill but blossoming in the mouth with tangy floral delight. It also paired extremely well with the cheese -- but only the cheese. Honestly, the combination of a celery sorbet and a spicy pepper oil was a perversion of an offering. The celery flavor with the sweet wine did nothing other than taste fishy and the pepper oil fought with the spice of the mold in the cheese. What were they thinking? Needing to rush to the get to the theater, I rushed through my coffee and ice cream lollipops; one chocolate-covered bergamot and the other, a green tea. These were nice and I'm sorry I didn't get to savor them a bit more instead of having to scoff them down. A note on the ambience; the room is large with vaulted ceilings and large columns. However, the proximity of a busy bar and the acoustics of the room made it louder than I would have thought. In considering this against some place like the Ritz, this is quite bustling and noisy. Lastly, a word on service. In my last year of high-end dining, rarely I have met with such amiable and enthusiastic servers. They were considerate of the fact that I had a book open in front of me during my two-hour meal, pleasant and cordial. While I was obviously taking WINE notes (I took home a menu and made no food notes during the meal), they were conscientious of that fact and forward in pouring more of something they thought I would appreciate. I mentioned that I thought the Riesling was an incorrect pairing and the server indicated he would share my thoughts. If only the food matched the amazing service. In all six courses, only one was worthwhile; the squab. And one of the two fishes was definitely not fresh (as attested to some later evening "difficulties" to which I succumbed). How desperately sad. In thinking back over the meal, it was too often a travesty of mediocre meat with a slight smattering of vegetables that lacked balance and thought.

Sorry I never posted it here (but on CH), but here is a December 16 report on Boulevard... Also, I don't think Zuni is quite what you are looking for as far a celebration is concerned. Because of this thread, I ate at Michael Mina this evening and will be writing that up in the next day or so. But here is my Boulevard report: I often get dissed within this (Chowhound) community for continually referring folks *away* from Boulevard. Not having been in several months, a business luncheon on Friday was a perfect opportunity to go in with an open mind, hungry countenance, and no preconceived notions (i.e., it was an unknown restaurant as far as I was concerned). For starters, we were seated very promptly in an exceptional seat with a grand view of the Bay Bridge. From beginning to end, service was exemplary -- from sommelier to waiter to busboy, we were given friendly, pleasant, perfect attention. Three of us were great at sharing as we had three starters; Tuna Tartare - Here's what it says on the online menu (I'm afraid I can't recall if it is currently on the printed menu): [served with] Ginger & White Soy, Spicy Avocado with Wasabi Tobiko Pickled Daikon Radish,Togarashi Spiced Chips. In my mind, the consistency of avocado and tartare are so similar in mushiness to be a detraction. The creamy texture of the avocado does little to complement a good, fresh fish and I look at it as a way to mask a mediocre product. In a good tartare, I want the bright pungency and clean taste of a fresh fish and to me, the avocado ruins what may have very well been a great quality ingredient - but I couldn't tell. Butternut Squash Agnolotti with Truffle Pecorino, Shaved Truffles - Three of them were quite plump, with a sweet creamy interior of squash. The pasta itself was thicker than I would have liked which meant that corner bites were mostly pasta and no filling. The three ravioli were topped with a rich Pecorino sauce and a few slivers of white truffle. I've had truffles at three or four different restaurants this year and with the exception of those at the French Laundry, have found them to be completely devoid of flavor. It is generally given that this is a bad truffle year and I personally would stop paying for any truffle supplements. The ravioli were good, but overall bland. Cream of Porcini Mushroom Soup - You have to understand that I take my mushrooms VERY seriously so even run-of-the-mill mushroom soup makes me happy as this did. But it didn't soar and wow. With the prevalence of incredible wild mushrooms available, using porcinis almost seems proletariat. For our entrées, two of the gentlemen both ordered the "Veal Saltimbocco with Prosciutto, Sage & Asiago Cheese, Yukon Gold Potatoes, Mushrooms Milanese, Arugula, Capers & Cherry Tomatoes" which was served with panko-fried mushrooms, an underliner of paper-thin, giant potato slices. and topped with tons of fresh greens. I had one bite and was shocked at how overly salty and chewy the veal was; pounded quite thin, the layering of Prosciutto made the mouth almost leathery. What I didn't get was the mushrooms -- I liked them, but they seemed an afterthought with everything else going on in the dish. I, on the other hand, ordered pork which was served with mashed potatoes, a small square of blood sausage, red cabbage, and chunks of apple. My pork was very well prepared; tender and flavorful. I especially enjoyed the juxtaposition of the blood sausage in the dish. The cabbage, apples, and pork all worked well together and everyone enjoyed this as the best dish of the day. Only a single dessert was shared, although we all had various dessert apertifs (sherry, port, and cognac). Being the one with the sweet tooth, I ordered the Sticky Toffee Pudding layered with Creme Caramel, served with Satsuma Tangerines, Candied Kumquats and Almond Biscotto. While the sticky toffee pudding was surprisingly dense and dry, the addition of the creme caramel masked that fact. The flavor was excellent and well-received. Overall, I maintain that I see Boulevard as *generally* being over rated and undeserving of the praise it *generally* receives. Lest one think that I was the only person unsure and not thrilled with our lunch, my two guests were far from the critic that I am and THEY would not bother finishing their servings. As there were three ravioli, that course was finished as we each ate one but the tartare and the mushroom soup went back half-eaten. Both gentleman only ate half of their veal, unhappy with the saltiness of the dish and the toughness of the meat. Again, the service was exemplary. But the food just did not live up to the greatness that is the ambience of the interior, the stunning locale, or the fabulous employees. I wish I could love Boulevard, I really, REALLY do. Just like I wish I loved the Monaco because of the stunning, Art Nouveau interior, I could happily spend hours in such a setting and with the great service Boulevard offered, I'm sure I will be back, but I will no longer even expect to be blown away. I imagine I will only be sated if I am hungry.

Concur with Amé -- probably a much better suggestion than Mina. And I have to say that my recent Chez Panisse experience was one of the worst I have ever had...

This is how I do it -- the rendering out on low can take 20 or thirty minutes. The last three minutes or so is when I turn the breast over to assure it gets cooked on the "raw" side. Keep in mind, duck can be served RARE as it does not carry the same frightful salmonella bacteria that raw chicken does; the reason so many people over-cook duck, I think...

Weinoo, I have yet to go to the Michael Mina establishment here in San Francisco (I was disappointed in his SoCal venue but I know he is rarely there while he is located here) but it is moving up on my list of must-try places. That might be a consideration for you and am sorry I don't have first-hand on his San Francisco restaurant.

While I have eaten through most of the appetizer/bar menu at 1300 Fillmore, I finally joined some friends to eat off the dinner menu. Starting with the one appetizer I had not yet tried, we ordered the sweetbread described as "Crispy Sweet Breads "Cast Iron" Corn Bread, Morel Mushroom Cream, Peppercorn Demi-Glace." For $11, this was almost an atrocity; three very small sweetbreads served with two dried morels soaked in cream, atop a hunk of cornbread (which we had ordered anyway). I was just thinking that a few blocks up the street, for $8 at SPQR, I could have an entire plate of several dozen sweetbreads. Three of us ordered three entrées to share: Fulton Valley Farms Organic Black Skillet Fried Chicken with truffle-whipped mashed potatoes and pan gravy. $21 Maple Syrup Slow Braised Beef Short Ribs, Crispy Onion Rings, and Buttermilk Chive Mashed Potatoes. $28 "Smothered Rabbit" Baby Turnips, Parisian Potatoes, Pearl Red Onions, and Rabbit Essence. $26 For starters, there is no difference between the chicken's mashed potatoes and the short rib's mashed potatoes. Or, I should say, if there is any truffle oil/essence in the mashed potatoes served with the chicken, it tasted no different than the "buttermilk chive" mashed potatoes served with the short ribs (which, by the way, seemed to lack any chive that I could see). The chicken was reasonably good and tender although not as moist as I thought it might be and I desperately wished the pieces had not been de-boned. There is nothing quite so satisfying as gnawing on a great piece of fried chicken with one's hands instead of having to use a fancy-schmancy knife and fork. For the short ribs, again I was slightly disappointed. The onion rings were slightly limp although nicely flavored with herbs in the batter. The meat from the rib fell obligingly away from the bones but was shockingly dry. Then there was the rabbit. Here was a sincere chance at greatness for this dish had undoubtedly the best flavor. Enticing and rich, I struggled to discern the ingredients in the sauce. The disappointment, however, was in its minimalism; two meager legs. I could not but help compare it to Aziza's rabbit where you get two legs AND several medallions of sliced loin to enjoy. Here, the red onions complemented the rich sauce and intriguing complexity, but there simply was not enough of it. Also, in my several visits, I have found the cocktail to be *very* inconsistent. This was the third time I had ordered a Sidecar and on this particular occasion, it was so strong with mediocre cognac as to be undrinkable (all three of us tried it). We did finish up the evening with a dessert, a gingerbread napolean with quince-apple compote. Between the three of us, we didn't bother finishing the dessert; dry cake stacked with whipped cream, a crispy tuile, and a side of the fruit. I am very sad about this as my first few visits eating just the bar food was quite good but this recent meal was shockingly disappointing. I'm sure I will go back as I think they are still working with training wheels and hope some of these problems will resolve themselves.

The timing could be critical, but some time next month, Laurent Manrique is going to be re-opening The Fifth Floor with a new menu and *that* might be the next great place for high-end in the city. From others' accounts, I believe my mediocre meal could be an anomaly but I have not wanted to spend the money to go back and find out. I suppose I should but knowing that Siegel will be leaving for Myth makes it entirely suspect to me from the get-go. Who knows who will be cooking that evening... I imagine it will be just fine, but possibly not as good as it could be. If that type of meal is what you are looking for (multi-course, intriguing combinations, etc.). It probably is the best probable choice. Its just sad for me to know that it should be better.

No one is talking yet. I would suggest making some back-up reservations somewhere (although 'twere it me, I would make different reservations entirely as my meal there was memorable more for its misses than its hits). Consider Quince, Manresa, or Coi for alternatives.

Run it through a tami and mix 50-50 with unsalted butter and freeze. Use as necessary ← Best reply I've seen and is what I do with mine. I love having it for last-minute sautées and adding a special flavor to things. Perfect condiment.

Honestly, it seems like a lot of heavy food. Eggplant parmesan is substantial enough without serving a soup, but if you want, how about making the entire meal more Italian-oriented with a lighter Minestrone instead of potato-leek? Salad-wise, consider some light antipasti; onions, pickled things, and cheese. Then leave out the post-prandial cheese course since you are obviously going to have cheese on the Eggplant AND in the pasta. There is also a really good salad in Jeff Smith's Italian cookbook with asparagus and oyster mushrooms which I adore.

Catherine, I'm sorry I can't remember who did it, but several months ago, there was an eG blog from someone who lives in Turkey. It was a favorite of mine and I meant to bookmark it, but maybe someone else will be able to point the direction.

Bravo. We are proud of you...

I leave things out overnight all the time. I'm in my 40s and have yet to get sick (or die...) You'll be fine.

There is some synchronicity at work here... I also got the book this summer at this event in Los Angeles. I had forgotten about the book until a few days ago and finally thumbed through it, inspired by all the vegetable recipes! I made the Le Kit Kat and can attest, it is pretty fabulous!

Good idea. That bleach thing usually leaves an oder that some of us can still detect...