Carolyn Tillie

No newspaper on the table, but for me, the best seafood in North County is Fish House Vera Cruz. The original was in San Marcos but they have another in Carlsbad now. Crazy good.

Little Tokyo is in Downtown Los Angeles. A bit far from LAX. There are many good Japanese restaurants in Torrence because of many Japanese companies setting up shops in SoCal. Many Japanese immigrants and relocated workers. Torrence is much closer to LAX. Sorry I don't have a specific restaurant recommendation. Just helping out with the geography info. ← Closer than Torrance (and significantly better) is both Gardena, which has THE finest Japanese restaurants in the state (trust me - go to Shin-Sen-Gumi on 190th and Western) or the length of road known as Sawtelle which runs parallel with the 405 freeway in Santa Monica. You will spend a lot more money on Sawtelle and have better food in Gardena. Skip Little Tokyo.

When I was working on my Master's degree in metalsmithing, I did a brief internship with two noted bladesmiths, Tony Swatton and Jim Hrisoulas From Jim's site:

Okay, that geography helps. Pasadena is a LONG way away from LAX. You will want to stay on the west side of town (Venice, Marina Del Rey, or Manhattan Beach). My first and probably the best recommendation would be Joe's on Abbott Kinney Boulevard in Venice. In Marina Del Rey, consider Cafe Del Rey. In Manhattan Beach, I would suggest Auberge. And in right next to Manhattan Beach is Brix (it is actually Hermosa Beach). All of these will put you within a half-hour drive to the airport.

I gotta keep ringing the Ubuntu bell. I was back there on Friday night and was -- AGAIN -- completely blown away. Chef Jeremy and pastry chef, wife Deanie, continues to astound. This time it was the seared Watermelon Soup. I'll try and post pics and a full report later, but suffice to say this is now my go-to restaurant for visitors from out of town.

Really, that bothers the locals to abbreviate? I had no idea. I tend to shorten things automatically. No offense meant. ← No biggie - just adding to the wealth of knowledge. Just to prove I'm not making this up: Virtual Tourist MetBlogs And the Frisco thing Hope you had a good time regardless and will report back where else you ate!

Ubuntu is a must-visit. (I'm going back there Friday night myself....)

MBernstein, I believe getting into Urasawa takes at least one month advance reservations. Unlikely you would get in with a week's notice. Just my experience, but if you call and there is only one of you, you might have some success. From what I know and people I know who have eaten there, Wagyu is always part of the meal and comes in only two or three courses (although I asked for an additional serving of nigiri Wagyu just so I could have more). I can't comment on how a Japanese person who has eaten in Tokyo or Osaka would rate this compared to regional restaurants.

Quick note: It is not "San Fran" or "Frisco." You are in San FranCISCO. We locals bristle at the abbreviation... Glad you got to Canteen - it is my favorite place for solo dining and would have been high on my list of recommendations. I'll also add Bar Crudo and Aziza. I am NOT a fan of Boulevard, Michael Mina, or Gary Danko, thinking them all over-rated. In Sonoma, I would have normally suggested The General's Daughter but we know there is a chef change going on right now. Instead, consider Cafe La Haye, La Salette (Portuguese!), or Girl in the Fig.

Over the weekend I agreed to meet a new friend for lunch in the East Bay. I was thinking something innocuous and friendly, like Fat Burger or some other unknown local eatery. Joe picked me up a BART and had other ideas; Napa’s famed Auberge du Soleil. Wow. All the years I lived in Napa, I had only had an occasional glass of bubbly or attended some private, catered event at the institution. I had never eaten off their menu… We were seated on the terrace overlooking the valley that had been my home for so many years. There was some debate on how many courses to order and Joe forged through with one of my favorite philosophies: Order whatever you want. What a joy! Thankfully, bites were shared across the board so I got a good sampling of a fairly extensive menu. Joe was very sweet in letting me order the wine and considering the lovely warm weather, I opted for a 2002 Dr. Loosen Riesling which was lightly sweet with delicate hints of a floral aroma and a perfect balance of acidity. Overall, it was a great wine to pair with our day’s offerings… Joe started with Shrimp Tempura with pickled vegetables, crunchy scallop, and soy vinaigrette. The vinaigrette was creamy versus a classic oil-and-vinegar style and made a great accompaniment. The batter on the tempura was a bit thick and cakey for my taste, but the scallop was encased in shredded filo was delightfully light. Overall the Asian flavors were well-executed and the contrast of textures quite nice. Sautéed foie gras with cherries and torchon with honey gelée served with brioche. The torchon was a fairly standard offering except that it was served on some powdered lemon verbena along with the gelée which made the offering light and refreshing. This juxtaposed with the perfectly seared foie and the scrumptious cherries which was a magnificent offering. Poached lobster salad with bibb lettuce, almonds, haricots verts, and curry vinaigrette. This was a stunning concoction and was made most remarkable by the Loosen wine pairing. The lobster was perfectly prepared and not overly chewy with the curry being just spicy enough to entice. Great Sunday afternoon offering and I could have happily finished my meal right here. Monterey Bay squid salad with chick peas, roasted peppers, and Picholine olives. The squid were excellent and had nary a tendency towards the rubberiness that can be so prevalent with cooked squid. The saucing was nice with a bit of mustard grain in the vinaigrette. What did not work at all were the olives which I don’t believe were Picholine at all, but tasted like overly brined green Martini olives. They overwhelmed the delicacy of the squid. Wild shrimp risotto with heirloom tomatoes, and a tarragon and basil emulsion. I believe by reading the description of the dish that a prevalence of shrimp might have existed. While minimal in actual bites, the overall flavor was delightful and elegant. The tarragon/basil ring which surrounded the creamy concoction provided a bright, complex juxtaposition against the richness of the rice. Day Boat scallops, sweet wine corn, wild mushrooms, Prosciutto nage. My main offering of the day was the scallops which were monstrously huge with a great crispy exterior and very tender, succulent interior. They were sitting atop bites of very fresh corn and earthy mushrooms. The Prosciutto nage made for a very rich dish and I was having difficulty finishing the bites. Happily, Joe helped out. Weakness reigned when it came to order desserts. I was torn between and two and Joe was torn between two and with one overlap between our choices, Joe ordered all three much to my delight. Crispy filo-wrapped chocolate dumplings with tarragon ice cream and arbequina olive oil. What called to me about this dessert was the tarragon ice cream and it did not disappoint. The warm, crunchy pockets exuded rich, creamy warm chocolate that was so well complemented with the tarragon ice cream and occasional swath of olive oil. Delectable. Fromage blanc cheesecake, blackberries, hush puppies, and bay leaf jus. This might have been the winner of the day just for the bay leaf jus under the macerated blackberries and startlingly inventive hush puppies. Honestly, I didn’t give a hoot about the cheesecake. We had a bit of a battle over who was getting the last berry and hush puppy. This dessert was inventive and with the addition of the herb was brilliant. Blueberry peach tart with oatmeal streusel, verbena ice cream, and Banyuls gastrique. Of the three, this was to most pedestrian and uninspired, except for the verbena ice cream which heightened the dish. It was very well prepared with an excellent crust, but nothing ground breaking other than its comfort-food quality. Overall, the offerings were fascinating and well-prepared, but it was the desserts where the envelope got pushed. For me, out of the savory dishes, my seared foie and curried lobster salad were the most memorable. A truly beautiful day and the beginning of a great friendship! Pics on the blog.

How timely. I was there on Wednesday and specifically ordered the chicken which completely underwhelmed me. There is a full report with pictures over here. I don't think I'll bother returning anytime soon - especially when the chicken is running $50. Just not worth it in my opinion and $50 can get you a whole lot of better food elsewhere (like Aziza).

First Urasawa in LA, then Manresa in Los Gatos. ← Then Ubuntu in Napa... Seriously, DJOblong, you have at your disposal some of the most amazing restaurants in the world in California and three of them have been mentioned in this post alone. Over the past year, I have eaten at most of the ones mentioned in the past few posts (in California) and would rank Urasawa and Ubuntu as stunning and impressive as TFL. After that, Manresa and Coi. Let them keep their reservations, spend the same you would spend at TFL for two other meals of equal impression (well, Urasawa will put you back $500 a person).

I have dined at Ubuntu in Napa a number of times – but always for lunch. Fortune brought me back into the Napa valley on a Friday evening and I convinced my sister to join me to experience dinner. Fortune could not have smiled more fortuitously as chef Jeremy Fox had just returned from New York where he prepared a meal for the James Beard House – and it was this meal we was recreating as a tasting. There is no way to express how lucky we are to have the likes of Jeremy Fox and his wife, Deanie, in our vicinity. In my last few years of expansive eating, little compares to the inventiveness and imagination being expressed in this Yoga studio. Besides my recent Ursawa experience, through this meal, this restaurant has moved very near the top of my best-of list. A few regrets that I did not snap pictures of every course, but hopefully a full description will suffice. Having heard much of the watermelon soup, I was thrilled that a shot glass amuse was our first taste. Cool Watermelon and Lemongrass Soup made with coconut milk, basil seed “caviar,” and mint, the inside of the glass had a small smear of crème fraîche and a fresh miniature pansy. Thick and unctuous, the watermelon was immediately barely discernable, but evident by the red color of the offering and the bright and clean flavor behind the rich coconut milk. A second amuse was also offered, one of Jeremy’s signature dishes, Carta da Musica with Ceci and Rocket – wafer thin crisps made in their stone oven, topped with a seasoned teaspoon of creamed chickpeas, topped with a bit of preserved lemon, parsley, black pepper, and a shaving of Parmesan cheese. Both of the amuses were paired perfectly with 2004 Domaine Carneros Brut by Taitinger. Our first official course arrived (and was photographed) and the bounteous size and the beauty stunned us. Quite frankly, in ordering a tasting menu, one expects lots of tastes more like the sizes of our amuses. This was a very large bowl of English Peas in Shell Consommé topped with fresh pea sprouts, chunks of macadamia nuts, and a fine grating of white chocolate with a few leaves of fresh chocolate mint. Brilliantly paired with Cade Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, 2007, the overall impact of the intensity of this dish is difficult to describe. The consommé was perfectly clear and the unexpected flavor combination of the fresh peas, nuts, and white chocolate was one of the most revolutionary I have ever tasted. The chocolate was a very small component, but the oily coating of its sweet melting in one’s mouth, coupled with the bright explosions of fresh peas and crunchy nuts, was nothing less than astounding. Our next pouring was a 2007 Robert Foley Pinot Blanc from Napa. Honestly, upon first tasting we were not as thrilled with this wine as we were with the Cade Sauvignon Blanc. That was, anyway, until the food came… This wine was paired with a plating of Grilled Peach and French Bean Panzanella with fresh Burrata, Basil Stem Dressing, and croutons made with Deanie’s Brioche. Again, another revelation. Trying to take a bite with all the components was the biggest challenge; tasting the rich creaminess of the burrata cheese juxtaposed with the grilled, fresh peach and fresh greens demonstrated a complex elegance most diners do not expect with mere fruits and vegetables. Not part of the tasting menu but brought out as a complimentary course was Cucumbers with Miso “Bagna Cauda” and Olive with fried fingerling potatoes, ficoide glaciale, Parmesan cheese, and lovage. Ficoide Glaciale is ice plant and I had never tasted it before. Miniature clustered sprouts were served in addition to the cucumbers and potatoes again, again, it is the surprising combination, which creates an unusual gestalt of exciting flavors. My sister was sad that she didn’t get to have her usual favorite, the signature Cauliflower in Cast Iron Pot. However it was quickly made up for with this James Beard concoction, a tasting of Courgettes and Succulents scented with the famous Vadouvan Spice and Panisse. This was paired with 2005 Cakebread Anderson Valley Chardonnay. This was served on two plates, the platter of freshly cut squash with fried panisse squares. The second part was the familiar cast iron pot filled with a “fettuccine” of squash and creamy vadouvan-flavored squash purée. This was easily as remarkable as the cauliflower version and my sister, being a huge squash fan, actually preferred this offering to the cauliflower. The rich, creamy curry-like flavors were well complemented with the rich, creamy-like flavors in the Cakebread Chardonnay. Our first red wine of the evening was poured for our next course, a 2006 Ramsay Pinot Noir from the North Coast was paired with a platter of Anson Mills Grits, risotto-style with a Borage Pistou, Capucine Cappuccino, and Amaranth. The dish was studded with a few tiny fresh peppers and topped with a skin of milk, giving it a queso fresco-like flavor and of all the evening’s offerings, this was our least favorite. We are both hearty grits fans but the overall flavor was reminiscent of Mexican cuisine, something neither my sister nor I generally care for. I believe it was the combination of the peppers, corn, and queso fresco. I could easily see how a lover of Mexican food would adore the dish, reminding me of a good tamale, but it somehow seemed at odds with the cohesiveness of the rest of the meal. Another red was poured, a 2001 Lion’s Run Cabernet Sauvignon. The initial flavors of this wine were expressively black: Black raspberry, black licorice, and black pepper. It was stunningly paired with our last savory course of the evening, Coq au Vin of Porcini with deep-fried domaine de la chance egg and a rich bordelaise sauce made from the Lion’s Run wine (made, by the way, from grapes grown in the restaurant’s own garden). Coming to the culmination of the meal, this offering was elegant and hearty. We were getting pretty full and neither of us could finish the egg, which I am not entirely convinced was necessary. Being a great mushroom, I would have been more than happy with a few of these gorgeous babies and the two sauces served; one porcini-based and the other wine-based. The hefty, dark wine worked well with the meatiness of the mushrooms which was heightened by the addition of a sexy little carrot known as a XXXXXX, purple on the outside and orange on the inside. With that came the beginning of dessert. Again, we were served a few extra courses not on the ascribed menu. First off was a lovely palate cleanser of a Raspberry Sorbet Float, rose geranium soda with watermelon granita accented with tapioca. This was complex in its combination of flavors and also in the intensity of the raspberry sorbet. Deanie then sent out something not on the menu, which was entirely enchanting; Miniature Apples on skewers served with her thyme-scented caramel and chopped hazelnuts. Scooping up the caramel with the apples, we were instructed to then roll them in the nuts, making a playful, adult version of caramel apples. It was all we could do to keep from licking every speck of caramel out of the bowl. My sister had never tasted the Vanilla Bean "Cheesecake" in a Jar with blueberries with chamomile and an almond-teeccino crumble.Two were offered and we quickly asked if one could be scooped out to be brought home for her husband. Any way, at this point in our three-plus hour meal, sharing one was more than enough and thoroughly enjoyed. I am continually shocked at the folks on the ‘net who don’t get or enjoy this dessert. It is so rich and perfectly creamy, showcasing the bounty of summer berries and Deanie’s amazing skill as a pastry chef. This was paired with a splash of 2002 Topaz Late Harvest Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc made by Jeff Sowells. I felt as I had come home as I had researched and written about Sowells, a bit of an enigmatic master of botrytis-affected wines who floats about the Napa valley, always searching for fungus-covered vines. Finally was an offering of vegetable-based mignardise, a perfect ending to a perfect evening; beet gelée, fresh fennel madeleines, miniature tomato linzer cookies, and carrot cake muffins. Despite their vegetable basis, these were all sweet and compelling, but not overly so. We were incredibly lucky to arrive early enough to nab a seat in the garden and stay well into the evening. As we passed back through the crowded interior, I felt doubly lucky as the limited seating in back is much more intimate and quiet. Pics on the blog.

I've had breakfast at the Beverly Hills Hotel as well -- were you in the formal dining room or did you go down to the cheeky diner in the basement with the hand-painted palm-covered walls? THAT is quite a place to hear local gossip...

From the San Francisco Chronicle: Best of luck and looking forward to the Dishmans' new endeavor!

Best of luck to you, Chef Preston and lovely Wife Nicole! Please keep in touch and report back -- would love to follow your career AND your cooking! <wub>

I know several people with two dishwashers. Why are you beating yourself up over it? Do what makes you happy...

By his choice or the owner's? And gone to where?

I'll add a few things. They have changed the service on the sweetbreads; it used to be part of that which you could order as smaller plates or singularly for $8.00. Now it is on the right-hand side of the menu as part of "Antipasti Grande" and the plates range from $13 to $16. I have to say that as much as I loved their sweetbreads, the new service and preparation is worse; the sweetbreads used to be cut smaller and the ample $8.00 plate had lots of small, crunchy bites. I believe they are serving the EXACT SAME AMOUNT, however they are no longer cutting them small, but frying them bigger and just serving them on bigger plates for double the price. Yep: $16.00! Not worth it in my opinion.

Quick report from a stop in last evening. I sat at the bar (well, I always sit at the bar) and chatted up the server and confirmed what I suspected; there is NO coating on the cauliflower or brussel sprouts (sorry; didn't check on the scallops). These are simply double-fried. In the case of the vegetables, they are friend en masse earlier in the day and the re-fried again when ordered. After that, topped with fried capers, greens, etc.

I was an early member of their "Meat CSA" and dropped out only because it was getting too difficult for me to haul from one side of the city to the other within a three-hour limit on alternate Saturdays. However, I can HEARTILY recommend their Mortadella which is the most flavorful and stunning I've ever tasted.

Shame on me for not writing this up sooner. My birthday present to myself this year was a trip to Los Angeles to see old friends and to finally dine at the mythic Urasawa. There was as much anticipation in approaching this meal as there was in going to the French Laundry for the first time; so much has been written about it and its masterful chef, that one can almost anticipate disappointment. I mean, how special and remarkable can ultra-expensive hunks of raw fish be after all? Suffice to say, that nary a meal in my past can surpass what I experienced at the hands of Hiro Urasawa. Yep, its true. It is the best meal I have ever eaten in my entire life, bar none. No mis-steps, every taste a revelation, every offering better than the last. Old food-chat-board buddy, Jschyun, was my dining companion for the evening and this was her -- what? -- fifth or sixth visit (if you can believe that!). It was funny to watch Hiro recognize her upon our entrance. She insisted on doing the camera duty for the evening so that I could just relax and enjoy what was to come. The only regret is that I did not bother taking notes and when the onslaught of nigiri commenced, upon reviewing the photographs after the fact, all cannot be remembered specifically. I have to laugh a bit about that, though. In perusing other blogs to try and match some others' recent pictures with what we ate, I learned that we easily had five or six MORE nigiri than what others have been served on similar dates. Jschyun and I are chalking that up to her presence; it seems she used to even eat a lot more than what we had that evening. I left stuffed so how her tiny little self is able to consume even more boggles my mind. 1. We started with a small crystal bowl of Junsai, a bit of fresh seaweed, a bit of fish (I thought shrimp, but Jschyun doesn't think so), all topped with a bit of gold leaf. Elegant, refreshing and a wonderful start. 2. Next was a gorgeous, delicious offering of o-toro, topped with a bit of grated radish, a bit of green, more gold leaf and all perfectly displayed in a rustic, handmade dish with an exquisite broth. 3. An incredibly simple offering came next, a single slice of Japanese eggplant with dipping sauce. Clean and fresh. 4. Goma Tofu - A stunning little dumpling made of sesame tofu stuffed with fresh uni and some red snapper. A little more gold leaf and a delicate broth. 5. The sashimi offering - on Hiro's famous hand-carved pillar of ice (which frosted, actually LOOKS liek paper!). Seaweeds, Spanish o-toro, red snapper, and uni. The wasabi was fresh and very sweet. 6. Chawan-Mushi - Hiro's sous chef, brother-in-law, Kim, instructed us to lightly mix the bit of wasabi hiding under the gold leaf. When he saw me scooping down the bottom to blend, he reached over with his chopsticks to show me that only the top gelée and wasabi were to be blended together. Within the custard were a bit of grated mountain potato and sweet shrimp. Elegant and enticing. 7. Tempura with uni, red snapper, a bit of greens. I can never not like a fried dish and tempura is a favorite. I could have eaten a number of these... 8. Seared fatty tuna - The stone placed in front of us was the cooking stone and while Jschyun was shooting pics, Hiro looked playfully annoyed as he reached over to cook her food while Kim cooked mine. So flavorful and rich it could have been mistaken for seared quality beef. 9. Shabu-Shabu - We had been watching Kim thinly slice foie gras and I had no idea that it was going to be cooked in a soup! The foie is added first to give the broth a level of depth and richness with the melting fat. Then the sweet shrimp (which we had been laughing at their movement during Kim's dessication) and a bit of Wagyu beef. Again, Hiro was scolding Jschyun as he is obviously anxious that the foods being prepared are eaten within minutes and she was delaying. I was fascinated that the chef was so conscientious about the timing of the courses and their consumption! 10. Being served some of the chef's homemade pickled ginger, the onslaught of nigiri was about to begin! First up was o-toro. Ohmygod. I apologize there are not specific notes on all of the nigiri. They were each remarkable and a great deal of the joy was the relaxed enjoyment while not analyzing and note-taking. 11. Seared Wagyu nigiri. 12. Aji nigiri. 13. Tai Red Snapper nigiri. If you look closely at the picture, you will see a fine dusting of yuzu on top. Much of the ritual of the evening involved Hiro slicing the fish for the nigiri while Kim watched intently, grating fresh yuzu in a small hand grater. Just as the pieces were ready, Kim would hand the grater to Hiro who, after topping the pieces with a light marinade of yuzu sauce and a light soy, would grasp a chasen (green tea whisk) to brush the grated yuzu onto the pieces. It was a ballet of culinary proportions. 14. Sawara Mackeral nigiri. 15. Shiitake nigiri. 16. Maguro nigiri. 17. Skipjack nigiri. 18. Red Snapper nigiri 19. Squid nigiri. 20. Ebi (Sweet Shrimp) nigiri. A beautiful presentation where Kim is scooping out the shrimp brains and pulverizing the offal into a "sauce" which is smeared on the raw shrimp. Stunning. 21. Kohada (Spanish Mackeral) nigiri. 22. Abalone nigiri. I enjoyed watching Kim prepare this. Only the "heart" of the abalone is used -- the rest discarded. And is very carefully scored so that when eaten raw, is completely tender. 23. Spanish Mackeral Tataki nigiri. 24. Scallop nigiri. 25. Migugai (Giant Clam) nigiri. 26. Anago (Sea Eel) nigiri. 27. Tamago - Egg custard. 28. Grapefruit Kanten - A sweet bite with bits of grapefruit and wolfberries, garnished with a touch of 24k gold. 29. Wagyu nigiri -- Okay, we couldn't resist and I asked for one more serving as I had never tasted a beef so tender. Served completely raw, it absolutely melted in the mouth. 30. Sesame ice cream with green tea - Hiro whips the tea himself and the ice cream also has a touch of gold. Such a beautiful finish to an amazing evening. 31. Barley tea. A way to clean the palate and relax while paying the bill. Yes, this meal was $500 a person (I alone drank sake). In retrospect, it was the most well-deserved and easily spent $500 I have ever spent. Worth every single penny. Pics on the blog.

I am lucky that O Izakaya is in my backyard; I go often for happy hour as the less expensive bar offerings can make for a really great, inexpensive dinner for me dining alone or to have quick business meetings at the end of the day. The drinks are extremely innovative and interesting with a Japanese twist. But over the weekend, I had a burger craving. Normally, wanting to stick close to home, I would usually head to Johnny Rockets or Harry's Bar. I like Harry's for its Fillmore burger with grilled mushrooms. Then I remembered that there was a burger on the O Izakaya menu and that I had never bothered trying it. Not opening until 5:00 (my one complaint), I had to wait for the doors to be unlocked on Saturday and within a few minutes, the bar was quickly packed with several large parties; it seems a party of 20 was being set-up in one corner and this was a meeting spot for the Virgin Atlantic workers who are put up at the Kabuki Hotel. It was quickly full but as I slipped in quickly, I was able to get the burger order in before the crowds. I added several accompaniments; grilled Maitake mushrooms, caramelized Negi onions, and Swiss cheese. Served with Shichimi-spiced french fries and garlic aioli, I am a new convert and would be hard-pressed to find a better burger in the city. it was so large that I immediately cut it in half and was able to save a large portion for the next day. I have worked the bar's menu of drinks and on this particular occasion, decided on the Hibiscus Margarita with Herradura Blanco. What a great Saturday afternoon...

The continuation of the birthday celebration occurred with darling friends, Becky and Max at Chinois on Main in Santa Monica. Beautiful, charming people -- the camaraderie outshining the food, which was fabulous. We started with what was probably my favorite dish of the evening, soft shell crab with fried greens and a green sauce. Beats me what the green sauce was, but these had to be the largest, freshest, and most stunning example of a soft shell crab I have ever experienced. Perfectly fried with a nary a touch of grease, all future crabs will be compared with these. We paired this with d'Herbert Champagne, Blanc de Blanc Brut (all wines brought by the generous Max!) Next was a sashimi of fluke and tuna tartare with sevruga caviar served with a light ponzu sauce. I am such a sucker for great crudo and the combination of fluke served alongside the tuna with its avocado smear works exceptionally well. We next opened a 1999 Verget Puligny-Montrachet "Les Enseignères" which had a lovely creamy entry, with a touch of pear and apple in the complex, engaging mouth feel. With this we ate the tempura ahi tuna sashimi with fresh uni sauce. This is a large round of tuna which has a thin tempura coating; just enough to entice without being overbearing and the redolently rich uni sauce. The brightness of the wine was emphasized by the thick, rich texture of the uni sauce and cleanness of the tuna. Next came a platter of sizzling calamari and rock shrimp salad served in a won ton cup with Chinese chili paste. Of the entire evening's offerings, this was the least successful. The calamari was slightly on the chewy side and it was mostly comprised of a bunch of fried fish on plain greens. The sauce did not bring the two major components together as one would have thought. Max then had opened a La Croix Blance Vosne-Romanée (silly me, I didn't get the vintage). This was a rich, elegant red which we paired with the roasted Cantonese duck with fresh plum sauce and steamed bao stuffed with pickled greens and shiitake mushrooms. The duck was perfectly prepared with a delightful crispy exterior. We picked apart the duck meat to stuff in our bao, scooping up the plum sauce. Getting full, the order of fried rice was packed up to-go before it ever got to the table. However, despite bulging bellies, a miniature dessert platter was brought out which contained some molten chocolate cake with fudge sauce, crème brûlée, chocolate pot de crème, fresh fruit, and vanilla ice cream with a single scoop of mango sorbet. A perfect amount of small sweet bites to satisfy. The service was stellar as always, despite the crowd (lots of graduation parties). Wolfgang even made a brief appearance which surprised me; I hadn't seen him at one of his own restaurants in over a decade (not that I frequent his restaurants...) In all, a fabulous birthday meal which was only surpassed by the love and friendship of my dining companions. Thanks B&M! Pics on the blog.

Thank anyway -- already booked for Marche Moderne for Monday evening and Urasawa on Tuesday evening. I've been here three days and have run out of evenings with which to dine!