Carolyn Tillie

Following Lucy Vanel's fabulous site, I took the opportunity to wander the Avenue Victor Hugo for a bit of boutique and antique shopping for a little solo Lyon adventure. Realizing I had not bothered with breakfast and getting quite peckish, the Brasserie l’Espace was inviting for one very specific reason: Jambon Persillé. Now if I had paid attention, I might very well have passed a dozen such bistros and brasseries all serving this illusive dish, but it was not since my time in Los Angeles, and my access to a French ex-patriots Florence & Bruno Herve Commereuc that I had authentic jellied ham with parsley. At Brasserie l’Espace, it was offered as part of a set lunch that included fish or pork (I chose pork – I had actually been eating a lot of fish lately!), cheese, and dessert for a mere 19.2€, a bargain! I ordered the house wine that is brought out in a recycled old heavy-bottomed bottle. The jambon was everything I remembered, served with lightly dressed greens, a few cornichons, and a couple of slices of tomatoes. The roast pork was stunning and HUGE. I probably should not have made up an entire meal of pork products, but I couldn’t help myself. The entrée was fall-off-the-bone tender and swimming in a delectable sauce of caramelized juices which some might think too sweet but for me, was shear perfection. The dish was surrounded by sliced, roasted potates, and roasted leek that was cooked to a wilted perfection (as much as I complain about wanting vegetables with a “tooth,” that really only pertains to green vegetables; members of the onion family are far better suited to long, slovenly caramelization), and a fresh artichoke heart stuffed with ratatouille. I really was in France at last. It is not a dream! This was country French cooking at a pinnacle I had really only read about. Surrounded by business folks and locals, I’m sure I was the only gringo, but with my glass of wine, crust of bread, and contented disposition, I was one of them… As with L’Est, I sat down in the restaurant with one or two patrons already there, and within fifteen minutes, the establishment was filled and I knew I had randomly picked a great spot and heartbroken that the iPhone’s camera failed to save my pictures...

Thanks to some last minute recommendations from friends, a small travesty was averted. We arrived in Lyon on Sunday – a day when most restaurants are closed. Fortunately, Brasserie L’Est, owned by the inimitable Paul Bocuse. A brasserie, I was a bit overwhelmed with haute cuisine and desirous of simpler fare. There is a bit of a circus feel to the restaurant when you enter, with movie posters of train movies on the walls and a model train running around a track, just below the ceiling. An open kitchen (with a microphone for the head chef) puts you in the middle of the action. It was all perfectly charming. Trying to be frugal, I ordered a set menu that included duck pâté, fresh fish with spring vegetables, a cheese course, and a dessert. He-Who-Knows-No-Bounds ordered all of his standard favorites; pâté de foie gras, escargots, and beef tartare. Both pâtés were excellent and has inspired me to reacquaint myself with my terrine moulds upon my return. I used to make quite a lot of them and with summer coming, will make many excellent warm-day meals. The escargots, for the second time on this trip, were served in small individual cups instead of the classic snail shell. These seemed a tad smaller than whose we shared at London’s Papillion, but equally as tasty. The fish and vegetables were plentiful – all most too plentiful. I was quickly getting full. The vegetables were slightly overdone for my taste (I like a bit of tooth and all these tended towards soft). The tartare was served with a side of potatoes, served atop of small burner, and a salad that went entirely un-eaten. Like Papillion again, I found this tartare to be a bit heavy on the Worcestershire but the including of capers and cornichons and the quality of the beef were still excellent. I guess I am a bit spoiled with my temple of perfection, Bix. For my cheese, I was served a half-round of Brillat-Savarin and the dessert was a recommendation of the waiter, the classic meringue with ice cream, whipped cream, raspberry sauce, and fresh fruit. All lovely. Interestingly, when we arrived at 7:45 p.m., we one of the first parties to arrive. By 8:15 the place was hopping with nary an empty seat. We both remarked at the agility and quickness of the staff and specifically admired the maître’d/head-waiter who bussed tables, offered service, called cabs, and moved with the deftness of a cat. There was never a wait, our wine glasses were never empty, but we never felt intruded upon. Pics over here.

D&M on Fillmore has an incomparable selection of Champagne and vintage Armagnacs.

A Saturday-night drive around Lake Geneva to Montreux was an unexpected surprise. Located in the Fairmount hotel is Jaan, a previously Michelin-starred restaurant (didn’t see it on the 2008 list) in an elegant Belle Epoque-styled hotel overlooking Lake Geneva. Up front, I will state emphatically that the food served was easily some of the most artistically-plated and exceptionally tasting that I can recall. I will also advise that the service was so painfully slow as to have made me consider walking out. Perhaps that is what caused the loss of their Michelin star, but if one is patient, than one can be rewarded with some exceptional cuisine. The timeline was such that we arrived at the hotel shortly after 8:00 – I remember specifically as we had a driver who indicated he was going to go down the street for dinner and would be back in one hour; I looked at my watch = 8:07 p.m. We walked upstairs, sat down, and were promptly offered a glass of Veuve Cliquot Rosé. This probably put us at about 8:30. A snack tray was offered; paper-thin chips of some sort of spice, a creamy spread I mostly ignored, and spiced nuts which were painfully hot for me. It was 8:45 before our order was taken. The official amuse arrived; a trio which included a bite of langostine topped with a bright herby cream, a scoop of salt cod with a salt cod chip, and a square platter with a slice of tongue encased in a classic velouté of tuna topped with a few capers. The quality of the langostine was a good indication of the overall quality of the ingredients. Our order was finally taken but it was well past 9:30 before the first courses arrived, almost an hour-and-a-half since we sat down! My starter was Green and White Asparagus with Frog Legs with Garlic Herb Red Wine Mustard. What a beautiful presentation! Small columns of white asparagus were topped with a single pink peppercorn and an edible flower petal. The rest of the asparagus was wrapped like a bouquet and nestled with “drumsticks” of frogs legs. The asparagus was perfectly prepared with the right amount of bright crispness and the richness of the frogs legs provided an earthy base giving a well-rounded presentation. My partner had the Duck Foie Gras from Alsace, breaded with Cajun Nuts and accompanied with an artistic strip of Granny Smith Jelly and Fruits Chutney with Tonka Beans. Again, another stunning offering. The idea of Cajun-spiced nuts was a concern which were quickly diminished. The cold foie on the interior was creamy and provided an excellent complement to the crunchy nuts. The painterly strip of fruits on their own might have been too sweet, but the juxtaposition of flavors and textures was one of the most innovative I’ve ever had. Not being a tremendous fish fan, my partner did not bother with a fish course but instead we shared my course, a Brittany Lobster “Spring Roll” with lobster mousse and fresh coriander. For these first three courses, we shared an ill-chosen Johannesburg Riesling (my fault – a bit too thick when something like a Sancerre would have been better). Regardless, this lobster dish was monumentally perfect. From here on out, I can’t imagine tasting any lobster dish without hearkening back to this one. The tail meat was wrapped in blanched leeks and cut into three sections to give the appearance of a spring roll with the leg meat strategically placed to emulate the lobster himself. The entire being sat on top of a mélange of shoestring-shredded vegetables which included fresh ginger, carrots, leeks, and bell peppers. The sauce had a slight curry hint to it as the Asian flavors and creamy sauce were a fabulous balance to the rich lobster meat. Now, several days later, I can still taste it and I still want more. Two mains were shared; Pigeon from France – roasted breasts, confit legs in duck fat with first vegetables and paper vaudois style with foie gras jus and Fillet of Swiss Veal with Open Ravioli, pan-fried foie gras, Sichuan pepper sauce. This was where the integrity of the ingredients really demonstrated themselves. Less than 24 hours before, I had eaten an offering of pigeon at Lion d’Or and in comparison, the Lion d’Or’s pigeon was shoe leather next to the tenderness of Jaan’s offering. As rare and red as a quality steak, there was sweetness and richness in the meat with a foie-based sauce not too rich and a selection of vegetables providing a bright, clean complement. Of the veal, I peeled back the handkerchief of herb-imbedded pasta to see the stacked veal and foie gras. Also hidden under the pasta was a brunoise of fruit. Once again, a stunning piece of meat, perfectly seared foie, and an ever-so-slightly spicy sauce balanced with a bit of fruit provided an inspirational offering. These were paired with a 1989 Latour Pauillac Grand Cru Moving on in the evening, it was coming on to 11:30 and there was still cheese and dessert service. Choosing to forego the formal service of the cheese cart, we asked to be moved into an anteroom, near the bar and fireplace where my partner could smoke a cigar. The staff accommodatingly brought me a requested assorted cheese plate and I was served a glass of Jurancon. They seemed concerned I was not going to order dessert and I explained I was much happier with the cheese and a finishing with mignardise which really was a perfect ending to an otherwise really long evening. I don’t necessarily mind four- and five-hour dinners (and have had them at French Laundry and Manresa), but in those cases, I am being served a dozen-plus courses – literally one course every twenty minutes or so – but a three course meal taking four hours? A terrible shame, considering the quality and imaginativeness of the food. Pics worth looking at (despite my iPhone)

Here is a report I wrote in October of 2007: Then last month: Since its opening and last month's report, I have been about a half-dozen times with varying consistency, but by-and-large (for me) way too salty.

Dinner at Lion D’Or was a sumptuous business meal for eight people; consequently, I was surreptitiously trying to take pictures and sharing plates was not a possibility. We started the evening with a magnum of Laurent-Perrier Champagne, Grand Siecle, 2000, a rich, complex wine with elements of a white peach stone fruit. A small platter of amuse which were sampled in the upstairs bar included herby gourgeres (surprisingly cold) and cigars of puff pastry with a hint of herb. A 1996 Puligny Montrachet 1er “Combettes” Domaine Leflaive was the first wine opened and was very well received. I paired that with a starter of Langoustines and Aubergines; caviar-flavored with tapenade of Taggiasca olives, olive oil, and a hint of mild pimiento and green anise. In all honesty, I am not sure the delicacy of the langostines held up well with the strong eggplant flavors. The next wine opened was 1986 Château Mission Haut Brion Pessac Léogror, Grand Cru Classée, a truly elegant offering. My first official fish course was a young turbot, pan-sautéed with artichokes and fritters of olives from Nyons. Well, the fritters of olives were that: deep fried. The whole dish was unremarkable and unmemorable. Continuing with the Haut Brion, I had “young pigeon well-seasoned in black cocotte sauge of legs and wild-mushrooms [served with a] compote of pumpkin-flavored with nutmeg.” I don’t get pigeon very often so I was surprised at how tough it was. Again, an unremarkable offering and rather sloppily plated. Another wine ordered, 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Henry Bonneau, Cuvée Réserve des Céleshins, was shared with the cheese. 1971 Château Gilette “Crème de Tête” Sauternes Preignac. Roast pear with Tonka beans, wanut biscuit, caramel ice cream and crystal salt. I actually liked the dessert a lot; far from elegant or refined, but with good flavors. Over-all for the prices (roughly 50 € for starters and 90 € for fish and meat courses) the food was shockingly mediocre. It was a beautiful evening with sterling service and great people, but nary a flavor or plate to wow. Sadly, writing this up only two days after meal, I can remember very little other than I was mostly unimpressed. Mediocre pics over here.

Google is a good start... Stir-Fried Taiwanese Clams, Four Kinds of Vegetable, Steamed Chicken with Black Mushrooms, Minced Shrimp in Lettuce, Chicken and and Cucumber Cold Salad. That site says: Shrimp and Water Chestnut Coquettes and a whole blog devoted to the exploration as such...

There were five of us. Being told there was at least an hour-and-a-half wait, the pub scene at A&H was WAY too crowded, loud, and hot. The only place we could stand was against the wall, in a straight line where we could not even talk to each other. At least at the Wellington, we could get some couch space (even with a game on!). The hostess didn't necessarily know we were pub-crawling as we told her we were just going to wander the neighborhood. I don't necessarily blame them for giving away the table except that we very pointedly told them we would be wandering the neighborhood and offered them a cell phone number (for me, more than another pub, I enjoyed looking the bookstore at the end of the street, or window shopping the neighborhood and seeing the Old Vic). I think the annoyance is that they wouldn't even consider taking a number and calling us when a table was available; in most cases, we were within a two-minute walk or less!

Anchor and Hope is a gastro-pub located near the Tate Modern Museum and the Old Vic theater. It has been written about extensively on multiple food sites and lauded often by bloggers. It was recommended as a final dining experience one evening by a London local and I honestly had forgotten that I had received previous recommendations. Unfortunately, what transpired almost ruined what could have been a stellar dining experience. As it was our last day in London, my old friend and I were tromping around the Thames, anticipating meeting up with the rest of my party shortly around dusk at the Oxo tower for cocktails. Twenty minutes before our appointed cocktail time, I received a call that they were done with cocktails and getting hungry – why didn’t we all head to the Anchor and Hope and whomever was there first, snag a table for five. “L” tubed over and arrived at approximately 6:15 p.m. and was told a table would not be available until 7:30 or 8:00! Well, we went ahead and put our name down and headed around the corner to the Wellington for a pint. Needless to say, the fact that the people I was with was willing to wait an hour for this restaurant and not for Tayaabs a few days before was slightly annoying. We returned at 7:30 and was told it would be another half-hour to 45 minutes. Okay, the boys headed off to another pub and I wandered around a local market. I went and found the boys at the other pub and they indicated they would be right back to Anchor & Hope. I walked back to the restaurant and we were informed that a table for five had been available while we were gone and that it would be another half hour. Can I express how upset we were all getting? By 8:45 (two-and-a-half hours after we checked in!) we got a table. And guess what? Half of what we wanted to order was already crossed off the list. Starving at this point, we managed to order the beef ribs with béarnaise (their last of the evening), a roast duck (also their last, we were told), a snail salad, cuttlefish risotto, and a fennel gratin. The beef was excellently prepared, delightfully rare, and at this point, great tasting. The snail salad was my least favorite (especially after the one I had at St. John). The duck was quite hearty but I really liked what it was stuffed with (a bit of pork around some cabbage). The winner of the evening was the fennel gratin. All of the food was respectable but I think the enjoyment was due more to abject hunger and having waited so long. I would have liked to enjoy a dessert, but as it was getting on after 11:00 when we were finishing, it was too late for everyone who was anxious to leave. The setting is too crowded, too loud, and too cramped. I would be hard-pressed to ever want to return. Pics on blog.

On my last day in Barcelona, I was wandering the Gothic quarter's area where the antique stores reside. Having mostly eaten my fill (okay, not really) of tapas, I found a restaurant intriguing enough to warrant dinner as there was Kangaroo Carpaccio on the posted menu. While I wanted to get to some of the more noted establishments like Rías de Galicia, I figured I would have decent luck getting my traveling companion somewhere relatively close to our hotel... Well, it *was* an adventure, I will grant that. We ordered a 2004 Genium Priorat and proceeded to order. Gee, a salad with pine nut ice cream? That sounded promising! Look at the picture and note the addition of peanuts and raisins in the salad -- it will become a recurring theme. Actually, the salad was not that bad; the addition of the pine nut ice cream was quite interesting. There was also sliced tomato, Asian pear, kiwi, cherry tomatoes, and a flower. It would make for an interesting interesting intermezzo in a large-coursed meal (well, the ice cream part, anyway). Alongside the salad, we ordered a "tagliatelle with langostine, mushrooms, and soya." This was an extremely salty offering with a tad too much soy sauce. I couldn't tell you what the cheese was atop the pasta. The langostines were over-cooked and looking at the pictures, you can see how over-dressed everything was. Now for the Kangaroo Carpaccio. This is what intrigued me to the restaurant and could have been extremely brilliant. Notice the peanut/raisin pattern again? What gives? The "dressing" (I think it might have been a balsamic reduction) was so sickeningly sweet as to killed whatever flavor the kangaroo might have offered. Those langue du chat were savory and meant to accompany the dish. One bite are we were both done. Quite possibly the most bizarre dish I have ever had and a complete travesty. Dessert - why, oh why, did I bother? Well, the servers were nice and it was quiet and bizarrely Oriental (look at the pictures - the entire restaurant was edged with the left-overs of a Chinese restaurant's motif they obviously haven't bothered to remove). The dessert we ordered was "chocolate lasagne." Hmmmm... are you seeing peanuts and raisins again? Yep, more garnish of peanuts and raisins along with more Asian pears and kiwi, just like the salad. The "lasagne" was supposedly chocolate pasta separated with thick chocolate ganache and overly garnished with chocolate syrup. You may not see it in the picture, but this monstrosity was HUGE, covering almost half the length of the table. Two bites sufficed. An interesting end to Barcelona and I promise there will be other follow-up reports which are far more interesting... Nexes C/ Banys Nous 8 08002 Barcelona 933 171 812 Pics on the blog.

Our last day-time meal in London was at Papillon, recommended by the concierge at our hotel. We had wanted to go to brunch at the The Ritz, but it is still under renovation. I was a tad dismayed when I saw the menu as there were no "typical" brunch items that one would expect. My friends had gotten accustomed to my devilish ways of wanting many tastes and we essentially ordered the entire left-hand side of the menu; all of the soups, most of the salads, and all of the appetizers. Nine courses for five people, way too much money, and one of the most memorable meals I have ever had. 1. Escargot - slightly typical with tons of garlic but atypical in that they were redolent with herbs and delightfully presented in individual cups. The side-dish of chips were also a bit different and went mostly un-eaten, but that okay... 2. Beef Tartare - very, very nicely cut meat but a tad heavy on the Worchestire sauce, but certainly appreciated by the testosterone which surrounded me. 3. Asparagus salad with pisachio panna cotta and Parmesan crisp - the asparagus in London has thus far been delightful. The dish we had at Rules a few evenings before was a bit fresher and better quality, but the presentation of this vegetable with the panna cotta was inventive and refreshing. 3. Green pea soup with poached egg - We ordered this as several of us were craving eggs. Breaking open the yolk and stirring it around the thin, bright soup was perfect. Redolent of the ingredient and not of cream or fillers and not too thick; the way one wants creamy pea soup in the spring. Bright and clean pea flavor. 4. Salad with fried pigs trotters - Granted, who really wants the greens? This was all about the perfectly crisp and rich pigs trotters which were not too heavy, perfectly fried, and a huge hit. 5. Terrine de foie gras with a layer of quince - Quite possibly one of the best foie terrines I have had; served appropriately with two slices of brioche, the slice was huge, the preparation perfect (nary a blood vessel to be found!) and the insertion of the quince in the middle an easy way to not have too much or too little. 6. Mediterranean fish soup - On the menu, the description made me think it would be a bouillabaisse as it was described as a fish broth accompanied with rouille, croutons, and cheese. Little did we know that what would arrive would be a tureen of dark, muddy broth and three copper pans of our self-serve accompaniments. I spread the rouille on each tiny slice of bread, sprinkled the cheese in the broth, and placed the laden croutons atop the broth. This dish was quite nearly the show-stopper and a beautiful example of well-integrated flavors and a perfect example of classic of classic flavors superbly presented. 7. Salad with black trumpet mushrooms, poached egg, jambon, and a light vinaigrette - again, another winner. The ham was not sliced too thin or too thick, the egg was perfectly poached so that the runny yolk blended well with the fresh greens and the fresh mushrooms were plentiful and enough of an earthy flavor to round out a great dish. 8. Gnocchi - Okay, the one dish ordered from the entrée-side of the menu. Somebody wanted it; I only tasted a bit but enough to know they were well-prepared and perfectly light with a rich, creamy sauce. 9. Presidential Soup - the clear show-stopper; in a small tureen and topped with baked puff pastry, the rich beef soup was filled with bits of marrow, fresh vegetables, and foie gras. It is difficult to express how terribly rich and how ultimately perfect this soup was. We all had spoonfuls but some of us produced very large chunks (bigger than the soup spoon!) of foie gras. It was artery-clogging, decadent, and a taste that I will not soon forget. Pics available on the blog.

No worries - you are probably correct on the mint assumption. It makes perfect sense for that flavor.

With four of us dining, there was a great opportunity for lots of tastes... We started with a bottle of '84 Pol Roger, Cuvée de Winston Churchill to accompany our appetizers, a terrine of duck foie gras served with rillettes and elderflower jelly, Brown Windsor soup with Welsh Rarebit, a special offering that day of fresh asparagus with Hollandaise and slivers of black truffles, and another special, Wiltshire rabbit country pâté which was easily my favorite, cut thick and redolent with pistachios, dried fruit, and topped with a spicy fig confiture. The asparagus was also a favorite; dining with folks who tend to shy away from vegetables, I somewhat believed I might get this beauties to myself, but others saw how hearty they were and they quickly disappeared. I was very lucky to be dining with gentlemen who were amenable to sharing as the plates went on rotation around the table; roe deer loin with warm salad of wilted chicory, pear, and Stilton, rack of West Devon lamb with Anna Potatoes and mint sauce, fillet of beef on the bone with grilled bone marrow with a red wine sauce studded with black truffle bits, and the Rules' version of Blanquette de Veau, which I think was my favorite. It was served in two parts, the rice studded with fresh tarragon and black trumpet mushrooms and a copper pot with the creamy sauce, chunks of tender veal, and large fresh cepes. The fillet was tender and rich and paired well with our 2000 Nuits St. Georges Clos Saint Marc. We finished our evening by opening an '86 D'Yquem and a number of desserts, sticky toffee pudding, apple tart tatin, a cheese plate, and some braised rhubarb. All of the desserts were excellent as was the service. I love the atmosphere at Rules and I love the old world-style service. It hearkens back to an era in which I wished I lived, somewhat Edwardian and classically elegant in the style of Escoffier and Ranhoffer. The food is not haute or molecular or even daring. There is an understated quality and charm that perhaps is best appreciated by those of a certain generation, but all I can say is that it makes me happy. Pics and intro on the blog.

That sounds like a grand club. Does anyone know of one like it? We just joined Jewel Wineries club, as our first foray into this kind of wine acquisition. We've gotten two shipments so far, and are sadly lagging on consumption. (Course, we also stocked up at the little wine shop down the road and are even further behind on those... but summer's a comin' soon.) I asked on another forum (a wine industry board) - what's the benefit to the winery - why offer clubs? Here, I am wondering - why did you join? What is the benefit to you? For us, its the chance to try some wines we might not have, otherwise. ← I would HEARTILY recommend Vintner's Collective. I wrote an article about this small collective of upscale, boutique wineries several years ago. They provide major quality juice and it is a reminder to me that I should probably join myself... I belong to a handful of "clubs" which are more-or-less "lists" -- meaning they are limited release wineries which only make a limited amount of wine and sell on a first-come, first-served basis. They tend to be small-production facilities producing Rhone varietals (Copain, Culler, and Outpost, specifically).

Actually, that is incorrect. The reason that the dark chocolate ginger is not in the box is because it is a favorite of the CEO/President and he has deemed it will *never* be removed from the roster of candies produced, but is consistently not a very good seller. It has never been included as part of the boxes and never will be, but will always be available. I wish I could find the article online, but I remember reading it as a very lengthy introspective about the company several years ago and as a SoCal native, included bits of local trivia.

I ate here first over two years ago with Jschyun and don't know why I hadn't been back. Recently, my trainer, Lisa, and I started dining out a lot together and she wanted some Japanese fusion so I suggested Amé. It was Easter night and relatively empty (maybe four or five other tables full). Wanting to taste as many flavors as possible, I cajoled our waiter into mixing up the five-course tasting menu with a few additional items but also by not serving both of us the exact same five-course tasting. So, with the first course of crudo, we got two platters; subsequently eight tastes! Corresponding pics available on the blog... 1. Uni on scallop, cuttlefish, potato croquette with salmon and caviar, tuna tartare with self mix-in quail egg. Of the four, the scallop was the winning combination. 2. Second set of crudo; I'm sorry I don't remember the specifics, only the bottom two; hake and mackeral. All very, very good. Overall, the fish is extremely fresh and the accompaniments are well-thought with none of the sauces or accoutrement overpowering any of the fish (okay, the potato croquette was a bit thick and heavy for the salmon, but that is a minor criticism). Our crudos were paired with two different sake; Senshin and Kubota Hekijyu -- both amazing; the Senshin was ever-so-slightly sweeter, but mostly dry, with hints of grass, white stone fruit, and depth. Fabulous selection. 3. Chawan Mushi. I requested the specifically so that Lisa could taste it. Still as stunning as it was two years ago; rich and redolent with lobster, succulent with the earthy mushrooms adding a complex layer. This was paired with another sake, Kasumi Tsuru, Yamahaj Ginjo. All I remember about this one was that we were both so impressed, I asked about being able to buy a bottle to take home but by the end of the meal, we all forgot... It was reminiscent of some of the best, textured Sauvignon Blancs without the stridency or overt citrus qualities. 4. Again, I don't think a foie course is part of the normal tasting but we both love foie and expressively requested a foie course be included. This was served atop the best-prepared pork belly I've had in ages. It is described as Berkshire Pork Belly “Kakuni” with Braised Daikon and Gobo Root. It was paired with 2005 Clos Habert Montlouis Sur Loire. Hearkening back to my foie with pork belly at Mina, it blew me away that one could be so bad and one could be so good. While Mina's pork belly was mostly fat, this was an unctuous, rich morsel of pork. The sauce, while on the slightly sweet side, was magnificently paired with a wine that had a minimum level of sweetness to complement the sauce and not fight it. It is a Chenin Blanc but a demi-sec level of sugars instead of being crisp or acidic. One of the best foie/wine pairings I have ever had. 5. The first of two hot fish courses, Broiled Sake Marinated Alaskan Black Cod and Shrimp Dumplings in Shiso Broth paired iwth 2006 Siduri Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley. This was the second time I had this course and it is very good; a rich fish which is one of the rarities that can pair well with a red wine. I think it is because of the richness of the shiso broth. 6. A daily fish special, I believe it was Halibut but prepared with sliced calimari, clams, beans, and more which memory fails -- other than it was very rich and quite tasty. Served with 2005 Domaine Laroche, Chablis Premier Cru. Another great pairing and this far into the meal, I am getting more and more impressed with the consistency of the wine pairings; nary a missed step in the bunch! 7. Braised Berkshire Pork Cheeks with Anson Mills Soft Polenta, St George Cheese, Braised Artichokes and Cardoons. Sadly, my photograph of the wine bottle is too blurry for me to transcribe. We were slowing down significantly as the level of richness in the dishes were increasing exponentially and this was no exception. Obviously prepared sous vide, this was melt-in-the-mouth meat and a clear show-stopper. 8. A special of the evening, grilled Spring Lamb with a miniature tartlett of wild mushrooms. I only had one bite of this but drank readily of the 2005 Marziano Abbona Barbera d'Alba. Again, perfectly prepared, with a sauce that was not too overpowering. 9. We decided to share one dessert, “Castilla” Cakes filled with Huckleberries, Lemon Curd and Apricot jam with Almond Ice Milk Shake paired with 2004 Maculan Torcolato. Oh-My-God.... These little cakes were like miniature Monte Cristo sandwiches are an exponentially decadent level. The almond ice milk was like a nice palate cleanser in-between the rich, fried morsels but the addition of the Torcolato was majestic; not too sickeningly sweet as to overpower. Overall, we both agreed that we ordered too much food. In the middle of the hot fish courses, we were reaching our limit. The rich entrée courses were very, very good and much of the excellence was due to the stunning pairings. However, I need to go back more often and avail myself of the brilliance that is coming out of the sushi bar. Based on this visit, Lisa insists I need to go to Bar Crudo and I can only hope its fish offerings are as good as Hiro Sone's.

Zeph, you *are* going to hit a snag because of the Easter thing and while many would normally suggest the Ferry Plaza for one-stop "all things culinary," I would question how much is going to be open for you. An interesting alternative could be the edge of Union Square where you have access to Chinatown or Clemente Street where you could have lunch at Burma Super Star (although whether or not they are open is still questionable). I'm sorry I don't have more definitive information for you -- it is such a weird holiday and anyone's second guess! While the drive up the Golden Gate IS prettier, it will add an hour (at least) to your drive time, making your time to get to the CIA upwards of two-and-half to three hours. I'm thinking you would be a lot happier just going up through Oakland and getting into the otherwise stunning Napa valley early enough to enjoy what is there.

Bix. Piano with lounge singer, killer Sidecars, table-side made tartare, vaulted ceilings, white-suited servers... One of the most elegant and under-rated "old world" restaurants in the city. Perfect for romance.

The first of the year...

Did I read that right? No more Rancho Gordo at the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market? Not even on Saturdays? I can't tell you how many directives I have received to visit your booth, and now that I am coming to SF in mid-April, I hear this? May have to rethink the entire visit... Seriously, though, might one of your special appearances happen to be on April 19? edited to fix typo in date of visit ← The booth and the product are still there -- more than aptly manned by his trusty side-kick, Joan. But the Man Himself, Steve Sando, I believe is now taking weekends off after working 7-days a week for the past five or six years...

I did this some time ago and have been meaning to post it for some time... Strike it up to the "yeah, this is going to be weird, but what-the-hell" page of my culinary adventures, but I gotta tell you, damn it works and tastes mighty fine!

I've made a ton of clafoutis and agree that there should not be a crust; baked in either a quiche pan or a cast-iron skillet, it is generally just a custard. I'm thinking that the addition of a crust is a chef's take on doing something slightly different and then it is just a tart. I'd look to Paula Wolfert's recipe in Cooking of Southwest France or the Saveur recipe. Fresh cherries are infinitely better than canned as the juice content can keep the custard from setting. Kim, you didn't indicate what kind of fruit you are using and that is probably why you might be having problems... too much liquid.

If you go into Open Table, you can open search for "next available" and early reservations show up every now and then. Someone on CH reported an availability for this Sunday, for example. It is a fluke in their system, I think.

Nope, not me. I did have coffee, which was excellent. What makes one cup of coffee that much better than another, I wonder? Obviously not allowing it to boil away to burnt goo helps and starting with good, fresh beans, but after that? Guess I'll go look in the "Drinks" forum and see if anyone there knows... ← It isn't really coffee -- the "Donuts and Coffee" are tender, beautiful hand-made donuts served with a coffee pot de creme. Stunning.

Were any of the recent posters offered the Donuts & Coffee? Chowhound reports are indicating they have to be specifically asked for...