Carolyn Tillie

I have to say I'm surprised at both Joe's and Valentino getting one star -- okay less so on Joe's than on Valentino which was a travesty in the food department but not so with service. Joe's is just missing finesse in plating, portion control, and sauces, but has a very refreshing take on flavor combinations. I haven't eaten at the *new* Patina but I could see the old one being worthy.

Can you invite me??? BTW, Welcome! Why don't you tell us what you made today or what are some of your perennial favorites!

J.S. - it is pretty standard when you order the "full" tasting, although the menu has changed almost every time I've been. I have never ordered anything different than just letting Chef Michael run loose and surprise me, but it certainly helps to be open minded. One of my guests was surprised by both the frog legs and the alligator but was a trooper in trying (and thoroughly enjoying!) both.

Interesting that spices seem tacky to you whereas Harry and David seems tacky to me -- but then again, I live in California where fresh fruit is abundant and the concept of mail-ordering fruit is alien. Within this vein, it is important to determine where your giftees are, geographically. As depicted above, somebody sending me fruit would be somewhat laughed at whereas there are things I can't get here in California like huckleberry products which are a Pacific Northwest rarity.

Having been born and raised in Tustin, I must concur - that phrase is a recent TV phenom and nothing else and grates on ones nerves like "Frisco" does to San Franciscans. That said, you are close to the land of plenty when it comes to Indian food; Artesia - Pioneer Boulevard to be specific. For haute cuisine, you have Pinot Provence and the other places mentioned. Shopping-wise, South Coast Plaza is too big for words and I prefer the smaller, more intimate Fashion Island for outdoor shopping, although South Coast Plaza has better restaurants attached to it.

Jschyun and I made the pilgrimage to Napa on Sunday for lunch at Ubuntu and I have, for the first time in almost two years, regretted no longer living in that wine country hamlet. The addition of Jeremy Fox at the oddly-combined restaurant and yoga studio in that town is a major boon. The restaurant is vast and elegant, studded with reclaimed wood tables, colorful photographic montages, and a very odd sculpture. Being the art junkie that I am, the hostess was kind enough to sit us at the communal table so I could look more intently at the sculpture by Mark Chatterley - haunting in the post-apocalyptic darkness of the figures' black, soulless eyes. While we perused the menu, we chomped some amazing sea salt- and lavender-dusted Marconi almonds. Sunchokes with Romesco sauce were extremely flavorful and hearty. Simple and hearty yet enticing. Rustic bread is served in a simple sewn burlap sack. Marinated beets and asian pears with fresh-picked greens and whipped Point Reyes blue cheese. I'm not sure I have ever tasted sweeter beets. The vinaigrette was perfect; not too acidic and the cheese a perfect complement. We decided to share two salads and two entrées - the first salad was Little Farms potatoes and fennel with red wine-mustard vinaigrette. This salad was incredibly robust and flavorful. The dressing showed elegance and thoughtfulness; enhancing the earthiness of the potatoes with the tang of the mustard not overpowering but playing with the brightness of the fennel, enhancing the entire dish. Stunning. I had heard much of the Cauliflower in a Cast Iron Pot and was thrilled at its heartiness. A curry aroma arrived as it was placed on the table and the description was "roasted-puréed-raw" with Vadouvan spice and brown butter toasts. I believe the melange of cauliflower to be held in a custard as it was so intensely rich. The first few bites were eaten atop the crusty toasts, but getting full, it was easier to just scoop lovely mouthfuls directly from the pot. Our other entrée was the Young Root Vegetables roasted with Saba, Anson Mills farro, and purée of sucrine du berry squash. I am unfamiliar with farro and had to ask -- while it had a bit of the consistency of barley, it was actually a wheat product. The purée was rich and elegant. This was an extremely elegant dish with a complex layering of flavors in the varying vegetables. I normally would have slipped a cheese course in but we were awfully full. Not too full, however, to try some of the amazing desserts produced by Deannie Fox. The vanilla bean "cheesecake" in a jar with sour cherries and pine nut sable was a no-brainer choice. Amazingly creamy and rich, I only lamented I couldn't take it home with me to finish. I had no problem finishing the accompanying tuile cookies, though! Our hostess suggested we include a Shot of Hot Chocolate with our cheesecake. I live near the Bittersweet Cafe which I thought had close to nearly the best hot chocolate I had ever tasted, but Ubuntu's offering, infused with Blue Bottle Coffee and topped with foamed condensed milk is so thick and rich, it almost had the consistency of slightly thin pudding. A house-made stroopwafel was the accompanying cookie and sounding like a broken record, I have never had a version of this quite so good. The caramel inside, freshly made and decadently drippy, was obviously applied just before service as the cookies were still perfectly crunchy. In this high-tech world, I thought it odd that a new restaurant would be named for a Linux-based operating system, only to discover it is an African philosophy of humanity towards others. The artistry of Jeremy and Deanie Fox creating what they do without any meat should be no detractor for carnivores - and if I could eat like this on a daily basis, I wouldn't mind giving up meat at all.

RJ, if you read through the Chowhound thread, you see that even if you know where it is, you can't get in without a pre-arrangement from the chef so it doesn't matter if one knows the location or not - try and walk in and you will undoubtedly be turned away. I knew it was a beef restaurant as my host had told me about it before our arrival. What I was not prepared for was how full I would be. Regrettably for me, during this whole week of driving from one meal to another, day after day, this was the one day (my last day) where I crammed in a breakfast (at the Beverly Hills Hotel), a lunch (at Kate Mantilini), and then this dinner. Three meals in that one day was a mistake for me in preparing for this dinner. The hard part will be my next trip to Los Angeles... Providence (where I have not yet been)? Bin 8945 (which continues to impress)? This place (which could easily become a favorite)??? It is getting harder and harder for me to choose!

The culmination of my week in Los Angeles was truly a special, memorable event; I was introduced to the “secret Japanese beef restaurant.” What can I tell you about it? Well, I don’t know where it is because I was driven there and I didn’t pay attention to street signs or addresses. How does one get in? You have to be brought by someone who already has a relationship with the chef. When you arrive at the door, you knock and are only let in if you have pre-arranged the evening’s reservation. From the outside, all one sees is the façade of an ugly strip mall with the restaurant’s windows heavily draped to indicate a restaurant otherwise closed. There is no menu. You are served what the chef prepares. There is no wine list. You have to bring what you want to drink. We started with a lovely Marie Stuart Champagne to accompany the platter of bites which were presented: 1. Tomato and cheese skewers 2. Quail egg and caviar 3. King crab with okra 4. Prosciutto and melon 5. Asparagus and walnuts 6. Salmon-stuffed with avocado and sprouts 7. Sundried tofu with tuna 8. Sautéed live clam with haricot vert 9. Shiitake mushrooms with new Caledonia shrimp and celery heart How does one adequately describe the bounty of flavors offered in these little morsels? I started with the tomato/cheese skewer and was delighted with the freshness of the tomatoes. The quail egg and caviar immediately brought a rich, salty counter to the clean tomato. The okra provided a clear, gelatinous glue that bound the crab bites together. The asparagus with walnuts was a favorite of mine; almost Turkish in its sentiments. I continued down the plate, having these momentary delights with each individual bite. 1. Beef throat with soy, garlic, and miyoga – thus began the parade of beef dishes. This one was served sliced with appropriate accompaniments and it was only as we were finishing the dish that I remembered to shoot the picture. 2. Beef tartare with quail egg, shaved Japanese apple, sprouts, pinenuts, and cucumbers. The dish was brought out composed and layered. We mixed the dish together ourselves and dove in… What a stunning mélange of flavors! Most tartares are prepared with more classic ingredients of shallots, capers, cornichons, etc, but the influx of Asian flavors demonstrated a subtle elegance. In preparation for the hefty part of the evening, the charcoal grill was placed in the middle of the table. We also had three sauces; a soy, a sweet, and lemon juice. When each platter of prepared meat was served, we were instructed with which each sauce the meats should be eaten. 3. Beef tongue was the first platter of meat offered for our grilling pleasure. In experimenting with grilling times, my first slice was grilled briefly and eaten rare which we all ultimately decided was the best (versus a longer grilling time which made the tongue a bit more tough). 4. Filet mignon with an assortment of vegetables; matsutake mushrooms, bell peppers, onions, and peppers. I have to admit – when I order steak in a restaurant, I tend towards the rib-eye or porterhouse but if all filets were like this one, I would certainly be a convert. So amazingly tender. To help clear our palate between the meat courses, two courses were added: 5. Crudité of vegetables with a spicy miso dip and 6. Momotaru tomatoes 7. Outside Rib-Eye. The brilliance of the chef is his mastery of butchering. This had been hinted at with the earlier beef courses but was emphasized between these next two. With the outside, we were instructed to eat with no sauce. 8. Inside Rib-Eye. And with this, we were told to consume with the sweet sauce. Much discussion ensued about the differences between the Inside and Outside rib-eyes and how one would be able to order this from another butcher. Not likely, we determined… It is something this particular chef knows how to do and specializes in. 9. Short Rib. Tender, rich and remarkably different from the tongue, filet, or rib-eyes. 10. Skirt steak. Did I say I was getting full? I could barely handle this final savory course and honestly didn’t enjoy it as much as the first round of courses. 11. Assorted ice creams; lychee sorbet, espresso ice cream, white chocolate/raspberry ice cream, pistachio ice cream, and blueberry sorbet. A nice, refreshing finish to an amazing meal and an amazing week.

“Dr. R” was the friend of the evening AND it was his birthday, so I chose the best place in his home town of Pasadena, The Dining at the Ritz-Carlton-Huntington. I also thought it would be interesting to compare this Ritz eatery since I was less than impressed with the one in San Francisco. To start, the room is similarly appointed - elegant but not to the point of ostentatious. We were offered a menu for prix fixe or the option of a tasting menu where the chef would Caviar Taco served with Taittinger, La Française, Brut, Épernay and Comte Audoin de Dampierre, Brut Rosé, Chenay “Dr. R” chose the Taittinger while I chose the rosé which I preferred. A very nice start – the way an amuse should be; a single bite. Thin herb-crusted crepe filled with caviar and crème fraiche. Mint sorbet topped with creamy sweet pea soup Still drinking our Champagne, this dish was a revelation – two simple, incredibly well-prepared components that accentuated each other. Watercress & fennel salad with house-cured salmon and fried red onions served with 2005 Rudd Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley Clean mélange of well-prepared salmon which was heightened with bright vegetables. The fennel added a nice bright tang with the fried onions giving the requisite contrast. The Sauvignon Blanc pairing was crisp enough to give bring out the richness of the salmon as well as that lovely fennel bite. Country paté; guinea hen and foie gras with Scarbrough Farms lettuces and truffle vinaigrette and Bread-stuffed baby calamari with aioli sauce, arugula salad with parmesan tuille and lemon dressing 2004 Trimbach Riesling, Alsace Here we were served one wine with each of us receiving two different courses to share. I have always been a big fan of the Trimbach Riesling which provided just enough sweetness to work with both the paté and the calamari. Of the two, the paté was the clear favorite; layered with bites of pickled onion, raisins, and an occasional peppercorn. Unlike so many patés, it was not at all overly fatty at all, but nice proportioned. Sautéed shrimp with Forbidden rice, bok choy, shiitake mushrooms, coconut milk green curry soup scented with lemon grass served with 2005 Conundrum, Napa Valley I slightly question the pairing of what is now generally considered a mediocre wine (it was great when Caymus still owned it) but the quality of the dish made up for it and I was surprised at how pleasant the Conundrum was (“Dr. R” REALLY liked it). This was complex and rich and contained many favorite ingredients for me, especially the rice and mushrooms. I am often surprised more chefs are not utilizing the Forbidden black rice and Bhutanese red rice and this was one of those perfect examples of how it accentuates a dish. The creamy curry soup was perfectly seasoned with just enough integrated spices to be complemented with the rich mushrooms. Lovely. Seared foie gras, kumquats, onion marmalade, and star anise soup served with 2002 Pouilly-Fuisse, Louis Jadot, Burgundy I have figured it out. I hate overly sweet foie and hate it especially when paired with a sweet wine. Kumquats are probably the one and only fruit that I really enjoy with foie as they offer a subtle tanginess against their sweetness. In this case, it was the addition of star anise that set the dish apart, giving it a depth and umami to the dish. Seared scallops, fresh spinach angel hair pasta with port wine truffle cream sauce served with 2005 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Perfectly prepared scallops and mildly interesting sauce, but the inclusion of pasta was pointless. Actually, just a bite of scallop with the sauce and a sip of the wine was a great taste! I understand chefs feel the need to include “something” but when it has nothing to do with everything or anything else, what is the point? Veal tenderloin and cheek with salsify, fava beans, baby carrots, pecans, and veal jus served with 2005 ZD Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Here was a truly great meat dish. While the veal tenderloin was perfect in tenderness, size, a quality it was the cheek which had more flavor and chi. The accompanying vegetables accentuated the meat and I loved the inclusion of pecans. I slightly regret the pairing of the ZD Cab which I don’t think is as good a quality wine as the dish warranted. Roasted venison loin, braised red cabbage, apples, wild mushrooms, and grand Veneur sauce served 2004 Fontodi Chianti Classico, Conca d’Oro, Panzano, Italy The wine was poured first and blew me away with complexity and integrated fruit. It was only when the venison came along that the wine reached new heights. In this case, it was the red cabbage that provided that something extra. The slightly pickled aspect of the cabbage, coupled with the earthiness of the mushrooms so well complemented the tender venison. Amazing pairing, again. Lemon Mousse This was really an amuse dessert and I wish they hadn’t bothered. It was called a mousse but really had the consistency of over-prepared, gummy Jell-O. Toasted meringue with nutmeg beignet and pistachio ice cream served with 2003 Maculan Torcolato, Italy This was hard for me this evening – we were both so exhausted at this point that I chose to forego the usual cheese course and cut straight to the dessert. Continuing the amazing service, the cheese course was boxed for us to take home as we tried to muscle down the sweets. The toasted meringue was exactly as it looked – pretty to behold and relatively bland. For me, it was the beignet which struck home. I desperately wanted a dozen of them prepared fresh for me the next morning with a pot of hot coffee served by some hunky beefcake of a guy… that would be shear heaven. How to compare the two Ritz Carlton's? One can't. On the one hand, you have Chef Ron Siegel (SF) experimenting in molecular cuisine and pushing the envelope, sometimes with fabulous results and sometimes with disastrous results. On the other hand, you have Chef Craig Strong (Pasadena) working those tried-and-true haute cuisine techniques which made for a more cohesive meal. Between the two meals, I *consistently* enjoyed those prepared by Chef Strong, even though they were more middle of the road and "safe." The ones that Chef Siegel prepared that were so amazing were so because they were so amazing in their conception and presentation. Siegel's highs were definitely higher and his lows were definitely lower while Chef Strong <ahem, excuse the pun> stayed strong in his skills and presentation throughout. The scallop with pasta was the most lackluster course while the soup and shrimp soared. It will be interesting for me to come back and remember these meals a month from now and see what sticks in my head. Of Chef Siegel's offering, more faults are remembered than its exceptions while Chef Strong's will probably be recalled with as yet another of those great tasting menus I had during that succession of eating a lot of tasting menus (which I have been for a month or so and will probably continue to do so through the holidays).

Probably, but do any of us really care? I lived in this town and worked with "celebs" for years. I am so over it that I deliberately ignore the potential of their presence.

The Ivy [113 N Robertson Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048-3101, (310) 274-8303] is one of those "legendary" places that people go to see movie stars. During my week in L.A., an old friend suggested it because it was where she had her 30th birthday party some twenty years ago so she had fond memories of the restaurant. It is very cute, decorated with French antique clay pots and chintz textiles. My friend told me that twenty years ago, the servers barely spoke English and one had to discern the specials through very thick French accents as they served very thick French, rustic dishes. Apparently it has changed a lot over the years -- not in décor, but in style and offerings. It is true that the servers barely speak English now, but the very thick accents are Hispanic, no French. And while the menu is heavy with Italian pastas, the specials were all Mexican. My friend started with simple ice tea while I opted for an extremely well-prepared Pim's Cup. Kudos for that at least. Research informed that the grilled salad is legendary so that was an easy choice. It was quite good, with grilled lettuce, zucchini, tomatoes, shrimp, avocado, and more. We also shared a reasonably small, light Italian fish soup which was well-stocked with mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops, and chunks of white fish. Having a very big dinner ahead of me, we opted to share the cookie plate with our coffee which included chocolate chip cookies, brownies, and pecan squares. $15? I don't think it was quite worth it... Actually, what I have described cost over $100.00 which is pretty obscene for lunch. The food was reasonable good but even at half price, is still too much. Makes me want to go home to San Francisco.

I have just discovered this delightful treat and am seeing it show up at more and more bars. Harry's, here in San Francisco, did a *great* version of a Gimlet with lime juice to cut the sweetness of the liquor. Fabulous.

Carolyn, I can't believe you've never been! I'll look forward to hearing about your experience. ← Yeah - when I lived in Napa, I had reservations three or four different times but never the funds and had to cancel. I've had the funds for a couple of years now and just never bothered until now.

Thanks, Tupac... after all these years, I am finally heading there myself in two or three weeks.

Interesting that Bastide is getting royally slammed on Chowhound.

Continuing my exciting week in Los Angeles, I took two old friends ("W" and "J") to Joe's last evening. As always, they continue to offer an extensive menu of both prix fixe items, tasting menus (it is squash this week), and a larger offering menu. Not wanting to limit the entire table to a tasting menu, we thought it better to order three appetizers, entrées, and three desserts for maximum effect. "W" is seven months pregnant so minimal alcohol was consumed - we got her and I a small glass of Billecart-Salmon Champagne while "J" tried his first Caipirinha which he enjoyed immensely. Instructions were given to the attentive waitstaff that we would be sharing all the courses and when the first appetizers arrived, it was realized that we were going to have an awful lot of food. These were pretty sizable portions with starters generally running in the $11 to $20 range. 1. House-made duck sausage with salad of sea beans, daikon, peaches, ginger gastrique, and black pepper tarragon sorbet - the sausage was *very* moist and succulent although any reference to its duck roots was somewhat lost on me. They could have just as easily been a bockwurst with their relatively mild flavor. The salad component was intriguing and while I didn't really detect any ginger in the dressing, the sorbet made for a fascinating element to the entire dish. 2. Butter-braised Maine lobster with pickled onions, butter-ball potatoes & tarragon, with vanilla emulsion - this was a HUGE appetizer and very rich. I should have shot the picture from the other side of the half-cut lobster so one could see the size and amount of meat which was actually included. Truthfully, the lobster was a bit tough and I think, over-poached. The potatoes on which sat the lobster were far too large for the dish - they seemed unwieldy and out of place. The rich sauce was redolent with sweet onions, with the tarragon bites making the dish more interesting. The inclusion of the vanilla seemed the biggest mistake in making the combination of flavors more on the sweet side than where it should have been. There is a great potential in this dish as it was the most enjoyed of the three, needing to be reigned it a bit with the preparation of the ingredients more in tune with one another in size as well as integrity. 3. Foie preparation with roti of potatoes and red wine herb sauce. Here's the deal; "J" had never tasted foie before and the appetizer on the menu which included that ingredient was described as "Grilled ahi tuna with seared Hudson Valley foie gras, rosti potato, and red wine herb sauce." Knowing we were getting lobster as one app and another fish with our entrées, I wanted to be able to demonstrate to my friend pure foie. Our waiter was very obliging in checking with the kitchen and altering this dish, giving us a larger portion of foie for us to share and leaving out what apparently is a pretty large hunk of tuna. I commend them on that regard but as we did receive the rest of the components, I am slightly curious how they would all work together as the potato rosti and accompanying sauce were very hearty and rustic; almost overwhelmingly so for the subtle foie. I can't fault the kitchen for giving me exactly what I asked for, but regret that I just didn't choose something else off the menu. For our entrées, I ordered a bottle of Sean Thackery 2003 Andromeda Pinot Noir, Devil's Gulch Ranch, Marin County. Stunning, rich bottle with opulent notes of dark cherry, layered and textured herbs, and deep rustic fruit. We ordered a well-rounded course of entrées for the wine; a fish, a fowl, and a meat and most entrées were in the $26 to $30 range 4. Crispy Rocky Jr. chicken with purple yams, baby bok choy, truffle soy brown butter,a nd miso piquillo purée. This was a winning dish for me; the skin on the chicken was perfectly crispy and thick, the meat intensely rich in what I imagine a great French Poulet de bresse to be. The combination of the slightly vinegary bok choy with the sweet yams contrasted with with the chicken. The aroma of truffle arrived when the dish was placed on the table, but hardly overwhelmed with flavor as truffle can often do. 5. Grilled Fujian escolar with spring onions, French green beans, hon shimeji mushrooms, and miso yogurt broth (poured tableside). While "W" and I were enjoying the chicken, "J" preferred the fish. The main ingredient -- the escolar -- was perfectly grilled and prepared, but the overall combination of ingredients failed to spark any interest in me; it was just a nice piece of grilled fish atop a bunch of vegetables and thin sauce. Perhaps it was because I was coming from richness of the chicken that the subtle flavors of the fish were lost on me while this was the first course that "J" tasted. I won't discount that possibility. Ms. "W"s pregnancy has left her slightly anemic so a special on the menu that evening seemed the best choice for her: 6. Ribeye with wilted greens, mushrooms, a compound butter of some sort and -- uh -- I don't remember what else. I actually asked for a copy of the menu so I could get all the ingredients listed for each dish but as this was a special, I don't know exactly what all the components were. The orange stuff was something like rice but pasty an un-interesting. At $50 for a special, this dish was a disaster; for starters, the cut of meat didn't seem to be a rib-eye at all, but a filet. Secondly, the sauce was inedibly salty. Because I am quite sensitive to salt, I didn't say anything until my friends asked what I thought -- when I offered my opinion they were relieved that it wasn't just them who didn't like the dish. To the restaurant's credit (and for that amount of money), I informed my waiter who returned it to the kitchen and offered us another entrée. Being reasonably full, we declined knowing desserts were still looming. Interestingly, during our dessert course the waiter confirmed that he tasted the sauce and it was indeed too salty and noticing a nearby table receiving the same dish later on in the evening, it was sans the offending sauce. Time for desserts and while my friends had previously turned over all the ordering to me, at this point we each decided for ourselves what sounded best... "J" opted for the 7. Creamsicle Bombe; raspberry sorbet, exotic crisp, orange glaze, and market berries. Probably a great choice for July but wrong for this time of year - at least for me. 8. Red flame raisin bread pudding with Muscat white raisin reduction vanilla foam and Concord grape sorbet. More my speed with the on-coming fall season, but this one ran slightly foul with the Muscat foam because it was slightly fizzy (which made one think it was "off"). The raspberry sorbet was ill-advised as well as bread pudding is something one wants with hard sauce, vanilla ice cream, or just plain cream -- not a strident fruit. 9. Pumpkin panna cotta with spiced ice cream, gingerbread, maple marshmallow, and cranberry. For dessert I ordered a glass of Roze's 40-year old Tawny Port and this was the knock-out course and pairing for the evening. Not only was the gorgeous port a perfect complement to the spicy ingredients of the dessert, but each dessert component a well-prepared, graceful example of the marriage of skill and fine ingredients. The panna cotta was smooth and elegant with the cranberries showing a nice contrast in their piquant flavor. With the gingerbread and spiced ice cream I got all the exact flavors I had been craving but in a unique, show-stopping offering. It was interesting that I had great fond memories of dining here at Thanksgiving six years ago and see how it has changed; they have obviously expanded their seating and upgraded from the rustic, earthy setting to a more elegant, refined one. For a Tuesday night, Joe's was quite busy and is an obvious town favorite. I could see eating there often if I was a local but ordering less food as the portions were quite large. There are a lot of great things going on with the combination of interesting ingredients but a few mis-steps with vegetables that are chunky and over-sized and sauces which are shockingly thin. A finesse of knifework coupled with a sensibility to plating could elevate this restaurant from the very good to the exceptional.

Another week of business in Los Angeles would not be complete without a visit to my favorite restaurant. This particular dining experience was not for me, however. Needing to impress my A+ Number One Client, I e-mailed David a week or two prior and asked him to pull out the stops; this wasn't just for me that I was looking for an impressive evening - and an impressive evening it was. "T" from New York and "C" from San Diego were my guests and I walked in unsure if this type of extended meal would go over well with them. I believe they were quite pleased. Apologies for the mediocre (and missing!) pictures; I was using the iPhone with limited light and quite often, we were so excited with what was being served, I just plain forgot to take the picture. 1. Malpeque oyster shooter with Vodka gelée and Tabasco - served with Kankuno Junmai Daiginjo Sake. Served on a block of ancient salt, this was a surprisingly spicy start. Having a small mouthful with Tabasco could potentially burn the palate for the rest of the evening. The sake, however, completely countered that spice working as a fire extinguisher and heightener to the unctuous oyster. 2. Hamachi with uni, brown rice foam, and caviar - served with 2003 Deutz Rosé. The first of several missed photo ops... The yellowtail was prepared tataki-style with a quick sear, the elegance of this dish was the umami of the brown rice foam; hardly overpowering but just enough to provide an earthy base to round out the flavors. 3. Blue corn red snapper miniature tacos with avocado - served with Vin d'alsace Riesling. Knowing how much food was still to be served, I jokingly complained that they didn't need to serve *three* tacos. Two would have been more than enough for me but David remembered how much I liked these and "T" chuckled that having three was just fine for him as he quickly cleaned his plate. 4. Tableside-grilled sea bass served with quail egg and haricot vert - served with 1995 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru. There are those occasions where a few, simple, unadorned ingredients shine more spectacularly than complicated concoctions. This is one of those occasions. Much of the delight is not only the simplicity of the dish but the wine pairing, which provided a stunning richness of complexity in the glass. 5. Duck fat-fried frogs legs with a light curry of Moroccan spices - served with Hitachino Nest White Ale. Words like "phenomenal" started getting expressed by my guests. You can see from the photograph that this one almost got missed. I adore the dish as a testament to Chef Michael Bryant's brilliance in combining seemingly unusual ingredients and extending those ingredients into the surreal with flavors like curry. 6. Alligator Pad Thai with peanut and XO sauces, soy, cilantro, and bean sprouts - served with 2004 Aile d'Argent Chateau Mouton Rothschild. Okay, that comment I just made about Chef Michael combining remarkable ingredients reached a moment of transcendence in this dish. This was a new dish which completely astonished me and everyone at the table. The fact that it was paired with a white Burgundy of stunning quality didn't harm its culinary impact. 7. Foie gras cannoli with prune marmalade and bacon foam - served with 2000 Domaine Pietri-Geraud Banyuls. If you read through my previous posts here on Bin 8945, one can easily see that I have had some complaints about each of the foie dishes I have been served, going back to the horrific Eggo Waffle concoction (which, I believe, was removed from the menu after I voiced my opinion). This was the first occasion where I could find no fault. I complain often that most foie dishes are too sweet but it was the addition of bacon foam in this course which leveled the sweetness of the prune. There is also the base adoration of fried foods and having the juxtaposition of the crisp cannoli wrapper with the rich foie certainly enhanced the dish. A show-stopper as attested to the fact that all three of us literally licked our plates clean. 8. Roast duck breast with squab jus, accompanied with miniature turnips, carrots, and mushrooms - served with 1998 Clos Vougeot. Apologies for the lack of a picture on this course but it is hard to contain my enthusiasm when I am served duck. This was a very rich dish and probably my one and only complaint on the wine pairing for the evening. In this case, the stunning '98 Clos Vougeot was too subtle and well-integrated to stand up to the heft of the duck and sauce. Either less salt could have been used in the preparation to maintain this particular pairing, or a newer Rhone wine (even a California Syrah) with bigger fruit is needed to stand up next to the richness of the dish. In discussing the pairing with my guests, the brilliance and elegance of the wine was easily demonstrated after we finished the duck and the wine was re-tasted alongside some unadorned bread. It really is an amazing bottle which deserves a more reserved, subtle preparation. 9. Filet mignon with duck fat-fried onion ring and haricot vert - served with 2000 Chateau La Lagune Haut-Medoc. I am a huge onion ring fan and anything savory fried in duck fat elevates its potential. It is taking a bite of the onion ring alongside the perfectly-grilled filet and following it with the wine is comforting. Having already had haricot vert with the sea bass, this was the first time I had wished for a different green vegetable of some sort; wilted chard or miniature brussels sprouts for example -- something with a slight acidic bite to counter the richness of the meat and fried onion and give it a spark. 10. Surf & Turf - hangar steak and scallop served atop duck fat-fries and topped with chorizo foam - served with 1989 Barolo Rocche de Manzoni. Well, I complained about having been served haricot vert twice in a very extensive meal, but far be it for me to complain about having too many duck fat-fried anything. I believe it was during my first visit that I criticized the Surf & Turf as being rather pedestrian. This new offering was another show-stopper. The dish was composed in such a way to encourage the diner to eat the combination of meat and fish together instead of that bite of steak and then that bite of lobster, etc... There was only a few bites but this was my favorite of the meat courses this evening. 11. Beef short ribs with potato purée, Okinawan turnips, and sweet potato - served with 1999 Ridge Monte Bello. Getting a little meat overload, I could have skipped this course. I like short ribs, but rarely bother ordering them in restaurants. There are few ways to prepare it to be inspiration and is, instead, just shredded, flavorful meat that doesn't really lend itself to being anything other than good meat which can be served with a good starch. 12. Lamb with mint foam - served with 2005 Roc d'Anglade Vin de Pays du Gard. Yet another missed photo oppurtunity. Shocked to be served yet another meat course, there was a brief thought to wave this dish off and thrilled that I did not. The lamb was immensely tender and perfectly seared. The addition of the mint foam complemented with this wine produced rounds of ooohs and aaahs on an unexpected level. Much of the brilliance of this course was the wine; initial nose of blackberry and boysenberry, a deep core of earthy thyme and fresh sage, finishing with black licorice and olive oil. Stunning combination and dish. 13. Cheeses; Taleggio, Clara a raw goat's milk from Spain, and Epoisses - served with 2004 Charles Schleret Sylvaner. I didn't bother photographing this as it is the same serving as in previous entries. The wine pairing, however, was different and delightful. I loved that the Sylvaner was bright and crisp with a hint of sweetness instead of cloyingly sweet as is often the case with cheese courses. 14. Duck fat-fried beignets with chocolate sauce - served with Mandarine Napoléon. The way to this girl's heart is easily with fried dough and the end of a perfect eating ensued. I had never had the Mandarine Napoléon which was far more rich and complex than Grand Marnier, a similarly-flavored digestif. I love the unpretentiousness of Bin and wish there was something similar in San Francisco. Coi is probably the closest insofar as adventurousness in ingredients is concerned, but for such an extensive meal, I think one would have to sit in Coi's dining room instead of its lounge and I prefer the casualness of this locale.

"Here" as in there is something not right at The French Laundry or as in something not right at Gayot? I believe the latter considering there are restaurants like Silks on their list. Silks vs. TFL? Puleeeeeze!

I flew into Los Angeles on Friday afternoon for a week of visits and eats. Picked up at LAX by my food-writer friend, "R" and talked me out of my usual lunch haunt, Shin-Sen Gumi. Leaving things in his hands, he suggested La Cachette [10506 Santa Monica Boulevard, Los Angeles, 90025 - 310.470.4992] The menu looked Provençal and slightly on the pricey side for lunch entrées (north of $30). However we were both very surprised to find tasting options available for lunch - four and five courses with wine pairings! While debating our lunch options, we were served bread which was obviously freshly baked and perfectly crunchy miniature baguettes. The offering of a type of olive tapenade was watery and pretty lifeless -- the bread was much better on its own with the good quality butter. Knowing I wouldn't need much to eat later that evening, we opted for the five course tasting. Our first course (heavily hinted that it would be appreciated) was seared foie gras, served with a poached Medjool date topped with huckleberries, a small fried "egg roll" filled with apple compote, and a drizzle of honey. This was paired with a 2003 Chateau Piada Sauternes. The foie was perfectly sautéed and while "R" enjoyed to fruit accompaniments, I found it a bit on the sweet side (as I usually do). The Sauternes was just mediocre, missing that lively botrytis tang which was needed to complement the foie. The second course was sliced Hamachi (Yellow Tail) which had been seared and dressed with ginger plum dressing and wasabe emulsion. This was served with an heirloom tomato-avocado tower and micro peppercress. This is the third (or fourth?) time in a month that a chef has served raw (or nearly raw) fish with tomatoes and it is a pairing I just don't understand although this certainly was the best version yet. The tomato/avocado combination had little to do with the fish although both were well-prepared and quite tasty. It was the peppercress that elevated this dish and intrigued both of us. It was paired with a 2005 Chateau Maynard Entre-Deux-Mers Haute Benauge. This was a great pairing in that the crispness of the wine next to the Asian flavors in the fish worked quite well -- but I still question tomatoes and avocados with Asian flavors. Seared sea bass was our next offering, served atop a spoonfill of ratatouille, freshly grilled zucchini blossom, and diced mango and persimmon. The wine pairing was an unknown year of Demessey Bourgogne Chardonnay. The fish itself was outstanding - tender, flaky, and moist with a light crusty exterior. The accompaniments were interesting - the fruit and the stewed vegetables were not as much integral to the fish as they simply were just there but quite tasty. The emulsion served with the fish was rich and flavorful but I was left wondering how the three side components were not so much related to the fish as they were to each other. Pekin duck “Two Ways” was our last savory course; duck breast marinated and roasted with ginger, orange zest, and an orange oil sauce and duck leg braised in duck orange jus served with braised red cabbage and crispy potatoes. This was served with a 2004 Demessey Pommard which was a bit on the young and fruity side which fought with the predominate orange flavors of the duck. The braised duck leg was the preferred part of the dish; tender and moist which worked well with the red cabbage. The breast was adequate enough - flawlessly rare and tender but just slightly pale in comparison the leg. As there were two of us, the restaurant was nice enough to serve two different desserts; a molten chocolate cake with mint sauce and a fresh berry tart with guava sorbet. Bonny Doon Framboise was the wine pairing for the dessert. The pastry under the tart was stunningly crisp and faultless. The mint sauce for the chocolate cake was combative with the Framboise; a vanilla or crème anglaise would have been a better choice for the cake which was acceptable but far from memorable. Overall the service was excellent, the ambience bright and warm, and the atmosphere perfectly charming. The five courses with wine was just over a $100 each and a great bargain even though the pairings were far from exceptional. I would definitely consider a return visit if I lived in SoCal.

At the beginning of November I'll be waking up each morning at an inn directly next door to Bouchon bakery. Rising each morning to the smell of buttery pastry and coffee sounds fine to me. Oh how hard it will be to have to choose each night from Redd, Ad Hoc, Bouchon, or Bistro Jeanty. To have such troubles . . . ← Heads-up on Bouchon bakery: It has been getting a LOT of downhill reports lately on CH, Yelp, and from Locals (Samgiovese, care to comment?). Apparently they can't keep staff...

My favorite hair dresser is located in the Lower Haight so it is only every six weeks or so that I get to that neighborhood. I am working on eating my way around that area though, but only just discovered RNM Restaurant [598 Haight St., SF, 94117, 415.551.7900]. I joined my hairdresser for a post-coif meal on Tuesday to much delight. We both ordered cocktails to start; he a Cosmopolitan and I, an "Aviation" with Gin, lime juice, and maraschino liqueur (quite tangy!) We both ordered salads to share; a grilled Romaine which was served with St. Agur blue cheese, hazelnuts, and sliced apples with a champagne vinaigrette and a baby spinach salad accompanied with pomegranate seeds, toasted pumpkin seeds, sliced Black Mission figs, persimmon, and a vinaigrette. The grilled Romaine was stunning -- I had not ever had grilled lettuce and the smokiness from the char was a nice complement to the melting cheese. Having the two salads side-by-side was nice as we could go from hot and melty to cool and refreshing, both well-dressed and nicely plated. Again, we decided to share entrées - ordering the rib eye steak and duck confit. The rib eye was pan-grilled and served with "a twice baked white truffle scented potato, yellow wax and blue lake beans, and oakville ranch cabernet butter." This was a really great steak. The beans were very fresh and the steak, perfectly grilled rare and tender. I didn't even mind the clichéd truffle scent on the potatoes. The duck confit was served on butternut squash risotto with huckleberry gastrique, prosciutto, brussels sprout leaves and toasted pumpkin seeds. This was an interesting combination, if not a bit on the salty side. Most of it was eaten as a left-over breakfast the following day and perhaps the saltiness was accentuated at that point. For dessert, we decided to share an apple/blueberry crisp served with dulce de leche ice cream. This was a really stellar example - served in a shallow-enough dish to give an equal portion of warm, roasted fruit to a lightly buttery crunchy top. I thought the dulce de leche might be too sweet but it worked well. I can see this restaurant as a great neighborhood establishment, moreso than a destination restaurant. The ambience is both slightly futuristic, with its metal mesh drapes and moderne lighting. I noticed a nearby table being given better glassware than we were offered. I asked for more decent glasses for our Havens syrah and a little scrambling occurred as I guess they just recently started to upgrade their wine service. Make sure to ask! The serving sizes were ample, the plating and timing worked well, and overall, a reasonable meal. Two cocktails, two salads, two entrées, a bottle of wine, a dessert with a small glass of dessert wine and tip came to just over $200. I wouldn't hesitate to visit again!

Amy - A16 is much more than pizza - pasta and entrees and salumis. Because of his Iron Chef fame, Chris Cosentino has been getting a lot more attention for his Incanto restaurant. It is becoming the darling of the city and I would heartily recommend getting reservations there -- also, if you are remotely game (no pun intended) pre-order the Fifth Quarter for the entire table; five courses of offal-based dishes. I have only previously eaten off the menu and enjoyed his duck testicles and dried, cured tuna heart, but am going to be doing the Fifth Quarter meal in a few weeks myself (I had to wait until adventurous friends were visiting!) Another rarity, then, for Clevelanders would be Burma Superstar or Mandalay Bay Burmese. I like both for different things but it is so amazingly different than the standard Chinese/Asian food and will be wholly different than anything else you've tasted. Caveat - I have not been to Poleng Lounge so there may be *some*similarities there. Edited to add -- I continually take first-time visitors to San Francisco to Aziza and so far, it has lead to many congratulations and thanks. For the price and quality, this is my "special place" in the city that consistently wows folks.

I'm afraid I can only make a one-sided suggested as I have not been to Ducca -- but have been to Rose Pistola a number of times and continue to return. Curious where you are coming from and what you are looking for though? It would be silly to recommend Japanese if you are coming from Los Angeles as their's are better than what San Francisco has to offer. "Better" is subjective and right now the "hot" Italian-esque restaurants are Incanto and A16. The obvious other foodie experiences in SF is the much-lauded Ferry Plaza on a Saturday morning. You will see multiple posts on the subject.

Fair enough as a testimonial, but did you only go there once, Carolyn? A professional guide like Michelin, if any good, will labor to transcend anecdote to estimate, from enough evidence, a typical diner's experience. I know respected restaurants (like the one above just raised from one to two stars) where anecdotal accounts range widely. Some of them are demonstrably atypical, or even show customer attitude evident in the comments, but these are not factors people seem open to considering when they post (or defend) their resolute opinions. Especially jaundiced opinions. Actually I have more and longer experience with that particular restaurant than almost any other customer, enough to've seen its ups and downs and strengths and weaknesses. Enough therefore to gauge the reviews by the restaurant, rather than vice versa. Enough to spot as misleading a snide comment by one (anonymous, unnacountable) diner, a comment chosen nevertheless for inclusion in a survey-based guide. Enough experience to spot as atypical, even bizarre, some postings on a restaurant-comment site whose incentives include invitation to parties "comped" by some of very restaurants rated (according to both word of mouth and the Wall St. Journal). These sources are what the Michelin must be compared to when criticizing it, for they're the alternatives. (They, and countless bloggers posting opinions from random perspectives with little fact checking, accountability, or sense of need for these things, but lots of opinion.) ← Max, in the case of my visit to The Dining Room at the Ritz, while it was my first and so-far only visit, the friends with whom I was dining had been there many multiple times and were equally as shocked at the downhill tumble we experienced through the meal. I find their palates very trustworthy and will not discount a second visit on my own, but as there are so many places I still need to eat, won't be rushing back for a second assessment any time soon.

If I had to guess, I'd say those mentioned in your post are going to see 1 *. I'm not sure any will move into the 2 * range and I think Marche, eligible maybe for a single *, was probably off the radar until the next publication. I would be really surprised to see any 2 * restaurants in Orange County, but who knows? ← I agree, Jason. I've never been to Studio, but from what I've heard it seems to at least have the "environment" of a two-star restaurant. I can't speak to anything else. I can easily see Stonehill getting one star but not two. Does anyone think any of the other players in OC will be considered for a star (Pinot Provence comes to mind - even though it sounds like the quality has declined recently)? I think Marche Moderne is probably too new for a star, but seeing as bistro style restaurants up in Napa (Bistro Jeanty and Bouchon), I don't think it's crazy to assume MM could get one in the next publication. As for LA, I haven't been to enough restaurants to judge, but I would say that Providence might be the only 2 star candidate. I've heard Sona is horribly inconsistent which has kept me away, but who knows? I'm curious if our resident LA restaurant expert, rjwong sees any other 2-star candidates in the area... ← If Michelin considers The Dining at the Ritz a 2-star here in San Francisco, than Stonehill Tavern would definitely rate one star, not two. For me, comparing the two, The Dining Room at the Ritz would rate one star and Stonehill Tavern would not get one at all, but I'm pretty bitchy that way.