Carolyn Tillie

Jerry - I have not been to Anjou but I find Cortez and Lark Creek (a steak house is a steak house, after all...) both very pedestrian. You haven't indicated where else you intend on eating during your visit but I think there are some spots that are far superior. From Union Square, I would at first consider Myth. Also in the news today as it was sadly purchased and chef Sean O'Brien will be leaving in February. Go before he leaves! There is also Canteen which has frequently been lauded on this and other sites. For exceptionally high-end (read: expensive), there is Michael Mina which some have loved (I have not yet been). I still constantly recommend Aziza. It is not near Union Square and would involve a cab ride, but is consistently the best and most innovative $50 meal in the city.

Front page of SF Chronicle

The mushroom dealer at the Ferry Plaza. Expensive as this is mostly a pretty bad truffle season, they are small and generally considered not worth the price.

<lamenting rhapsodic> Ah, Chez Panisse... what happened? </lamenting rhapsodic> Meeting new friends T and S for dinner this evening, the general camaraderie and lusty, culinary conversation could not belie the fact that our California Icon is becoming a pale reflection of itself. I would like to believe that I am simply so jaded in being able to receive the finest of California's abundant produce and ingredients, that knowing I am walking into a temple of what should be arguably the finest ingredients available, would entitle me to one of the finest meals available. Sadly, this simply was not to be. However, starting our first heavily-vegetable course, we ordered a half-bottle of Spanish Albarino do Ferreiro which was perfectly light and clean; almost Sauvignon Blanc-like without the astringency. With sincerest apologies for the iPhone photographs, after a bowl of Lucques Olives and Acme Bread, we were served our first course of grilled leeks with mustard vinaigrette, beets, and house-cured pancetta. Not listed in the ingredients but obviously an integral part which was included was hard-boiled egg. I am an intense leek aficionado but was initially concerned that the sultry leek flavor that I love so much was masked by the montage of other flavors which were far from cohesive. It was not that any one component was over-powering the rest, but the lifeless, limp leeks, in their stringy and chewy state, did nothing to elevate the smallish chunks of yellow beet and occasional crouton. The bastion of fresh ingredients was beginning to falter. For our next course, we ordered a full bottle of Vina Caneiro, Ribeira Sacra which was adequate, but far too young to show any depth or integration. The main course of the evening was described as Daube d'agneau aux herbes; Cattail creek lamb shoulder with herb-scented soufflé, fall greens, and carrots Vichy-style. Being the showcase protein, the first bite I took was of the lamb. While tender, I was immediately overwhelmed with the saltiness of the sauce. After that, I was underwhelmed with the overall flavor of the lamb; it simply did not provide that unctuous lamb flavor one grows to expect from the Panisse experience. The herb soufflé proved to be the highlight of the evening but was far from groundbreaking. It was quite simply a very well-prepared, miniature herb soufflé; light, accessible, and with a perfectly-portioned amount of herbs where too many could have been its detriment. The "fall greens" as far as I could tell were simple braised Swiss chard (which I enjoyed) but the "Vichy-style" carrots were limp and mushy to a point just shy of that which one would find in a can. Here was an opportunity to demonstrate the freshness of an ingredient, and instead they were overcooked to become lifeless, flaccid members. We were given the option of a cheese course before our dessert. From St. Helena, Haiku, a goat's milk cheese, from Wisconsin came Marissa, a sheep's milk cheese, and another locally produced icon, Red Hawk from Cow Girl Creamery. The cheese was served with an accompanying bowl of chopped persimmons and three dates as well as a platter of thinly sliced nut bread. I still never bother with any flavored breads as a vehicle for cheeses, the dates themselves were the highlight of this course. The cheeses themselves, while not overtly bad in any regard, were simply too similar in their lack of depth as to distinguish themselves. The formal dessert course was listed as a poached pear tart with muscat sabayon. I only needed two or three bites of this to know there could be no salvation for the evening's catastrophe. The pears -- like the carrots -- were so far beyond their state of freshness as to invoke concepts of can-dom. To inspire and imply a fruit or vegetable is fresh, I believe a level of "toothiness" is required, akin to a great pasta being al dente. These pears exhibited the same insincere mushiness as our carrots. The crust was soggy and flavorless, and the muscat sabayon lacked any tang or sweetness as to even suggest any other ingredient than dairy. It was all so desperately sad. We discussed and debated our meal during its transgression. The service -- far from being warm and inviting, was perfunctory and cold. Where was the spark that was missing? I had dined at Chez Panisse several times before and thought that perhaps my palate is simply becoming jaded, however my dining companions seemed as unimpressed as I; has this simply become a destination restaurant for the occasional diner and the tourist, the way travelers to Paris feel they must visit the Louvre? Like those who feel compelled to worship at any other venerated cathedral without the introspection of the implied worship, I believe the religion that is Chez Panisse has lived beyond its time and is a mythological anthem that no longer exists except in the reverence and adoration of its devotees. It is a religion of yesteryear.

Yes! And now is the best time of year to look for one -- I got my 48-bottle fridge at a Home Depot the weekend after Thanksgiving three years ago for about $150 (normally $300). Sure, it is not a Vino-Temp, but keeps my wine at a consistent 55 degrees with moderate-enough condensation for me to live with.

The only reason I ever really want to cook a turkey is for Saveur's Turkey Tetrazzini. The recipe in the cookbook, NOT on the website (which -- for god's sake -- includes Ketchup!?!?! ) My trick - more than double the mushrooms and utilize shiitake or other wild mushrooms in the dish.

That is an interesting debate. I guess I look at a technique like sous vide as becoming pretty mainstream; heck, a bunch of us are doing this in our homes and personal slow-water-cookers are being sold through non-commercial retail sources. So a hunk of pork is bagged and spun in hot water for a handful of hours... How "molecular" is that? Foams and powders, on the other hand, involve chemicals and knowledge of a culinary alchemy that is almost sci-fi in its application. Sur la Table and Williams Sonoma are not yet marketing do-it-yourself kits for the serious cook yet. And it is that "yet" which I know foretells a trend towards personal experimentation. After all Harold McGee had a bunch of us experimenting in our kitchen with creating consommé vis-a-vis this article. At my recent Dining Room at the Ritz meal, one of the most memorable dishes was the Quail egg 64 degrees, Osetra caviar, croutons, and cedar smoke essence. Full pics and description here. It was playful and fun and tasted good, but it relied on the gimmick of the smoke presentation. I seriously doubt you would ever find such a contraption at TFL. In thinking about this, it is coming down to "gimmicks." When I ponder my occasional forays into MG meals, I am reminded of Daniel Patterson's fake noodles, David Kinch's soy sauce powder, and Ron Siegel's smoke. Am I remembering the food or the flavors of the ingredients that accompanied those tricks? Nope... Honestly, I remember each one of those dishes for the flourish but not for their substance. And when I think back on my FL meal, the only similarly extravagant gesture that comes to mind is a monstrously large truffle in a cigar box; no culinary trompe l'oeil on a plate.

I think much of the difference is that Chef Kinch is obviously experimenting with various forms of Molecular Gastronomy (our soy sauce powder, for example, and occasional foams) where there is none of that at TFL. And, as often occurs with experimentation, missteps and mishaps occur. Considering I have dined at Manresa -- what? -- three or four times now? I have been through dozens and dozens of different courses, some perfection and others that quite simply did not work. I get the feeling that Chef Kinch is enjoying playing in his kitchen and is not afraid to show his short-comings in those occasional missteps. At TFL, there is no possibility of that, but there is also not an elemental of playfulness that Chef Kinch portrays. TFL quite simply *knows* what works and what is successful and they are very careful to not stray from that tried-and-true formula. Hence there is no need for any form of the Molecular Gastronomic tricks that many other chefs utilize in order to Wow the customer. They don't need to. They are the Obi-Wan to all the other Jedi Knights who know and comprehend the Force, but are still working on attaining its perfection.

1300 Fillmore [1300 Fillmore, San Francisco, 94115 - 415.771.7100] It didn't take much encouragement for me to wander over to this new neighborhood haunt. Dining alone, I opted for the bar instead of a more formal sit-down meal and knew immediately that I would be returning often. The vaulted brown ceilings invoked warmth and the generous leather chairs -- reminiscent of a classic British men's club -- were inviting and comfortable. I settled down in the lounge area to bask in the glowing wall of historical photographs and a gin-based French 75 while I perused the menu. To taste through several of their offerings, I opted for the BBQ shrimp and creamy grits and the bourbon-braised pork belly with shelled white bean purée. While I was waiting, my server was kind enough to bring me some fresh cornbread with honey-truffle butter and red pepper jelly. I was concerned about potential heat with the red pepper jelly and was assured it was quite palatable which it was. Truffle-honey? Minimal truffle flavor and I imagine they are using one of those pre-mixed truffle honeys which add little, if no flavor. However the cornbread biscuits were good an the red pepper jelly was chunky and a nice contrast to the sweet butter. I was a little concerned about the delay in receiving my two dishes and while waiting, ordered a Sidecar. Sure enough, when the plates arrived, I could immediately detect that the shrimp and grits had sat for a while the pork was being prepared as it was obviously piping hot. Both dishes were quite appetizing but I had a few minor complaints; on the shrimp and grits, there were five shrimp (which is fine), a hefty pour of excellent house-made BBQ sauce, but only *maybe* a half-a-cup of grits... WAY too little for the rest of the ingredients offered. You need to be able to slather all that saucy goodness into the grits but I was left with ample sauce and no grits. The pork belly was perfectly grilled with a crusty exterior, a good hefty layer of fat, and a beautiful bourbon glaze. My complaint? Pretty minor, actually... two long, dried orange peels being used as garnish. Silly me - I think that garnish should be edible but these were entirely dried and bitterly inedible. Over all, I am quite thrilled actually. My criticisms are minor and the space is stunning. With entrée prices north of $25, it is questionable how often I will get back there, but with such a fabulous lounge space and knowing I can order everything off the menu in the bar, I might be more inclined to sample sides (braised greens and mac-n-cheese!) with a great cocktail. Then again, a Bouillabaisse that sports lobster and crab next to short ribs might be worthy of spending a little extra money now and then...

I know several people who opt for tasting menus and advise early on that they don't want to bother with desserts but are happy to receive additional savory courses. So, your answer is yes! As this was my first FL experience, I wanted to see what they had to offer. If I go back, I will definitely go for a cheese course, ask for the donuts, and then be totally happy with just mignardise. I need to seriously get to the point where I ask for that up front. I have a *bit* of a sweet tooth and am always happier with just the mignardise versus the whole dessert tasting thing.

Actually, if you re-boil your stock every three days, it will last indefinitely. *Something* I learned from cooking school... Not that anyone would have stock around that long, but it is a good thing to know. Boiling will kill the nasty bugs and there is no reason you would have to dump it, even after a week or more! Many larger commercial kitchens will simply keep their stores of stock continually replenished; making new stock and adding it (and re-boiling it) to older stock.

I have only read about the delights of the French poularde bresse and I imagine that the richness and complexity of what French Laundry is producing is similar in quality and complexity. The meat itself was obviously tender but surprisingly moist and delicate. It easily could have been eaten with a fork (and probably was). Thanks, Carolyn, for the photos and descriptions. Building on tupac's inquiry, I am most interested in what, exactly, is in the "poularde" composition. From the photo, it appears to be pieces of poulard cobbled around a cooked mousse/custard studded with onions and herbs (and perhaps mushrooms?) and then wrapped in chicken skin. Juniper and chicken is a combination I have not experienced, if I recall correctly. Certainly, I have had juniper with other (game) fowl, but not with chicken. The taglietelle does look good. How was the torchon? It certainly looks like a generous portion. Was there a supplement for the torchon? ← There was a $30 supplement for the torchon and the truffle supplement was $150 a plate (so I was told - I did not physically see the bill, I just payed my portion). Yes, that was a $150 plate of pasta and worth every damned cent! I believe much of the filling on the poularde was the wild mushrooms as there were none on the plate. I also have not had any experience with junipers and chicken although I have used junipers in duck and quail to great success.

I have only read about the delights of the French poularde bresse and I imagine that the richness and complexity of what French Laundry is producing is similar in quality and complexity. The meat itself was obviously tender but surprisingly moist and delicate. It easily could have been eaten with a fork (and probably was). And, yes - that tagliatelle and truffle was my personal show-stopper in all this....

Here's a recent Sunday afternoon at 'The Laundry, shared with special friends, Samgiovese and his lovely wife, Ms. Giovese. With all of the fine dining I have been subjecting myself to these past few years, it was easy to brush of The French Laundry as probably being remarkably similar to meals I had experienced at places like The Dining Room at the Ritz, Manresa, or Coi. But what I was not expecting was the shear perfection that occurred. Meaning, while I can often find some level of criticism *somewhere* in a meal, on this occasion, there was nothing wrong; no where, in no dish, in no level of service. It was, quite simply, perfect -- and not in a cold, austere, unfeeling manner (as some have complained on various sites). There has been mention of a lack of soul but in many cases, the dishes had chi and then some. There is thought and consideration in those ingredients which complement each other and heighten their subtleties. It was expensive, yes. And it was worth every bloody cent... 1999 Schramsberg, "J. Schram" Napa Valley was served as we sat down to the afternoon adventure. And an amuse of Gougeres were the first delectable bites offered; small, chestnut-sized, and surprisingly the inside was warm and gooey. Next to arrive (also no pic), was the inimitable Salmon Cornets; amazingly fresh and bright with the sparkling wine. The first of our courses was Cauliflower "Panna Cotta" with Beau Soleil Oyster Glaze and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar. Creamy and elegant, the saltiness of the caviar provided the best possible complement to the subtle caviar. In preparation for the next several courses, a beautiful salt tray was offered. I know I can't remember all of them specifically, but was especially enamored with the red one which (if memory serves) occurred when the water is poured over red clay. The one in the center box was Japanese from a 10,000 elevation mountain, and the black volcanic is -- I believe -- prehistoric. There were also two fleur de sel. We knew a foie course was coming as we were served NV Alois Kracher, Beerenauslese Cuvée from Austria. What a stunning wine! So accustomed to overly sweet Beerenauslese, this had an unctuous quality with depth and character which worked so well with the foie - moreso than a Sauternes would. The foie? Moulard Duck "Foie Gras Au Torchon" with Sunchokes, Pomegranate Kernels, Marinated Beet "Ribs" and Sicilian Pistachio Purée Served with freshly toasted brioche toast, we played with sprinkling various salts on the creamy foie and played with the occasional addition of pistachio purée. It was during this course that I the realization of the perfection of this restaurant came to light; halfway through, with still a half-slice of brioche left along with half of my foie terrine, warm toast was offered as I was instructed that it tastes better with warm toast even though I obviously still had enough left. 2005 Domaine du Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Blanc - we spoke about our wine offerings and let the sommelier choose where to go with a mild bit of guidance. Mostly, I wanted to steer away from buttery Chards and almost anything Californian. I get enough of that and cherish the occasional old world wines which cross my path. This wine was a great offering of minerality and flintiness I was going to turn down bread, not wanting to get too full on incidentals. However, two butters were offered and how could one turn down the opportunity for a comparison? One was a locally-churned butter from Petaluma and the other from Vermont. The Petaluma butter was sprinkled with fleur de sel and was much preferred by your's truly. 2001 Rudi Pichler, "Terrassen" Riesling, Smaragd, Austria Then the waiter arrived with a cigar humidor and three separate plates of risotto, gnocchi, and pasta. With a grandiose flourish, the humidor was opened to reveal two of the single largest white truffles I have ever seen. These are BILLIARD BALL-sized white truffles. I have now been ruined for truffles from anywhere else, I'm sure. There is little doubt in my mind that when the best truffles are found, undoubtedly they are going to be offered to the best restaurants in the world and I was simply fortunate to be dining at that restaurant on the occasion when such a truffle was available. Here, after the truffle was sliced on our respective three dishes, a beurre noisette was dribbled on top. We shared all three dishes and for me, the tagliatelle was the clear favorite. Truffles on Risotto: Truffles on Tagliatelle: Truffles on Gnocchi: 2001 Henri Gouge, Nuits St. Georges, France Extra Virgin Olive Oil-Poached Fillet of St. Peter's Fish with Braised Cardoons, "Piperade," Young Parsley, and Nicoise Olive Emulsion. I have made olive oil-poached fish and tasted various offerings in restaurants, but never before has the purest essence of the highest quality olive oil been to prevalent in such perfectly flaky, moist fish. The nicoise olive emulsion offered up a different, complex olive flavor to contrast with the oil essence. Sweet Butter-Poached Maine Lobster Tail with Caramelized Pearl Onions, Melted Swiss Chard, Scallion Filaments, and Maple-Sherry Vinegar Sauce. My initial taste of this dish was that it was too salty. I believe Ms. G thought so as well, but as we took second and third bites, whatever saltiness appeared in the first taste disappeared as the sweetness of the lobster along with the maple component countered and balanced it all out. 2004 Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France Four Story Hill Farm Milk-Fed "Poularde" Mendocino Coast Cepe Mushrooms, Hearts of Romaine Lettuce, and Juniper Balsamic "Jus". A masterful composition, the chicken was moist and extremely elegant, heightened to a slightly gamey quality with the addition of the juniper ingredient, the mushrooms providing a substantive, earthy quality. Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Rib-Eye with Savoy Cabbage, Salsify, Glazed Sweet Carrots, "Petit Salé" and Grain Mustard Sauce. It becomes hard to describe continual perfection. Here were a few bites of lamb so unctuous and rich, it seemed to be the epitome of what lamb can be. "Epoisse" - "Degustation" of New Crop Potatoes and "Sauce Périgourdine". While not a great photo, this cheese offering was so remarkably special versus a classical offering of simple slices from a cart. Paper thin layers of potato hid the melted goodness underneath. Persian Lime Sorbet - to cleanse the palate. Three Wines to pair with our desserts, 1983 Warre's Port, 1997 Domain Fontauil, Rivesaltes Amore, France, and NV Vineyard 29 "Aida" Late Harvest Zinfandel, Napa Valley. Of the three, we all enjoyed the Vineyard 29 most and one I will definitely try to research. "Feijoa Sorbet with Maui Pineapple Relish and Angel Cake "S'Mores" - Cashnew Nut "Parfait," Caramel "Délice" and "Sauce a la Guimauve Flambée Milk Chocolate and Peanut Butter "Crémeaux" with Gros Michel Banana Sorbet, Salted Spanish Peanuts, and Toscano Black Chocolate Sauce "Charlotte Aux Poires et aux Dates" with Bartlett Pear Sorbet, "Japonais," Candied Hazelnuts, and Pear Coulis Coffee and Donuts - Again, I was so excited by the prospect of fried dough, I could hardly contain myself and no picture was taken. And what fried dough... so good they sent some home with me and I got to enjoy some the next day. The "coffee" was a heady, thick espresso pot de creme. Coffee with Miniature Creme Brulée Mignardise, Caramel-coated Macadamia nuts and black olive-studded miniature breads. In the final round, with all the sweets, I realize how much I prefer to finish up with a cheese course and only a mignardise as a sweet bite. While all the desserts were perfectly wonderful, they were not especially memorable now, a day-and-a-half later. I am still recalling the truffles, and the lamb, and the chicken, and the foie... But I could care less about the desserts. Of course, the fact that I had some of those donuts for breakfast didn't hurt.

They don't take reservations but those out-the-door lines tend to be summer-specific. This time of year, it shouldn't be a problem AND well worth it! (Don't forget to grab a piece of salt water taffy from the jar on your way out!)

Glad you enjoyed Lamborn! They are one of my favorite Zin producers in the valley and some of the most affable and amiable folks I know...

... and Cioppino ....

Here is my thread from a Laguna Beach trip earlier this year. You didn't say if you were going for lunch or dinner but I'd head to Sapphire for dinner or Break of Dawn in Laguna Hills for lunch. Alternately, in Costa Mesa, you really can't beat The Crab Cooker which is very accommodating of large groups and children.

Took my sister to lunch here yesterday. Hard to not re-order the Potatoes with Fennel and Cauliflower in a pot. My new dish this time was the hickory-smoked grits with brussels sprouts which was very, very good. We also finished up with a hot chocolate -- something my sister would usually never order as she is not a huge chocolate fan. She liked the fact that it is not overly sweet but on this occasion, it was a bit too thick to even drink and had to be spooned. I only finished half of it due to its heavy consistency.

That is actually my S.O.P. 99% of the time (as it is 99% of the time I eat anywhere). I think in the dozen times I have eaten there (usually for business meetings), I have only sat a table once. But despite the nicey-nice with the bartender, two years ago the kitchen produced a lot of problematic dishes and even my favored mussels were often not fresh and the frittes limp...

You've been lucky -- when I lived in Napa (two years ago), it was suffering horribly to the point where *most* of its clientele were tourists who didn't know better. It was just wildly inconsistent and most of us would simply avoid it, not knowing if it was going to be a good day or bad... Perhaps they are back on the consistently good as I fondly recall saffron mussels from one of their better days.

Based on a CH recommended, I headed to Cocina Poblano [1109 Fillmore St., San Francisco, 94415 - 415.447.8420] for lunch today. That is pretty rare as I have eaten considerably less Mexican food the further away from the border I have been moving. Not wanting to steer off the menu my first few times around, I was intrigued with the Super Veggie Burrito. Not because I am a vegetarian -- because I am not -- but because the ingredients started with Grilled Cactus. It also included mushrooms, rajas, potatoes, zucchini, onions, rice & beans, sour cream, cheese, salsa poblana, and guacamole. What a fabulous burrito! With so many ingredients, I couldn't necessarily pick out the cactus, but the combination was really great and especially with the addition of a pumpkin seed salsa from their salsa bar. Just a bit spicy for me but not overwhelmingly so. Curious if Rancho Gordo (or anyone else) has ever seen pumpkin seed salsa before? Slightly creamy, like a hummus with a bite. A tall glass of Jamaica and some side chips brought this great lunch to just over $10 and I couldn't even eat HALF the burrito. I'll definitely be back!

According to the website, they do a 5-course tasting for $78, and 7-course for $88. I've always gone for the full tasting at $100 and been served more than 10 courses. And I have sat at the bar quite comfortably. You tell them how much you can eat, how much you care to spend, and I'm sure they'll accommodate you!

Can you do one blow-out for $50 a head for one special night? If so, consider Aziza where you will get a fabulous, extensive meal which starts with two soups between you (usually a spicy lentil and lately a creamy sunchoke). Then there are a handful of sides like amazing spreads and house-made flatbread, kefta and grape skewers, and a salad of arugula, Humboldt fog cheese, and persimmon. Then you will get the opportunity to choose your own entrées from the menu - and I'd recommend the rabbit and the lamb shank (although their couscous is to-die for!). Finally, you finish off with two desserts, also from the menu. A seriously fabulous restaurant that never fails to impress and is my go-to restaurant for people visiting San Francisco as there is nothing else like it that I've found. Otherwise, HERE is the search of Bargain Bites reviews from the Chronicle throughout the city. There are a lot to be had.. Another new one to me is S.P.Q.R. on Fillmore. On their menu, they have a whole array of appetizers for $7.00 each, three for $18 and five for $25.00. The two of you could do a whole of serious eating if you ordered five and she ordered three and you each had a glass of wine.

By all means -- however, many times a hostess is the one doing the seating and he/she rarely has that much interaction with the kitchen to know what items are running short. Very often those same hostesses/hosts are hired as pleasing eye candy and their vapid little minds can't conceive of anything beyond table placement.