David Ross

I've been doing some research this morning and thinking about my first dish and I acknowledge that there are any number of acceptable dishes called "confit" but the definition is not taken quite so definitively as Larousse. For example, Eric Ripert makes a Lemon Confit as an accompaniment to many dishes. I then realized that a dish I've done for years, "Confit with Preserved Lemons and Arugula," is really two types of Confit-preserved duck and preserved lemons. The lemons are salted, (as is the duck), then preserved in lemon juice, (the duck in it's own fat), and sometimes I add olive oil to the lemons. I typically buy duck hindquarters at the local Asian market where they used to sell for the ridiculously low price of $1.50 per pound. Sadly, they are no longer offered fresh, (or frozen), so I'm using chicken hindquarters in my first dish, the aforementioned "Confit with Preserved Lemons and Arugula." It's basically a salad with the chicken confit heated under the broiler to crisp the skin. The preserved lemons add some acid to cut through the rich meat, and I think the salt in the lemons accents, (but doesn't overpower), the salt in the meat.

I'd love to see your "les fruits confits." I can be easily swayed if something is delicious.

Two weeks ago I went to a private dinner where one of the courses was a "Foie-Gras Lollipop" stuffed with duck confit. The concept had potential, but it just fell short in terms of execution. The center of the lollipop was duck confit, encased with foie gras then rolled in a mixture of pistachios with a stick to mock a lollipop. The confit was minced almost to a paste, which I think destroys the flavor of confit. I like big threads of salty meat when I'm eating confit. It was served at room temperature, which I felt didn't bring forth the flavor of either the confit or the foie gras. I like foie gras in the extreme-either hot or very cold, but not room temperature. I've wrestled with how I might have combined the same elements and I haven't come up with anything that I think would work, but I do think it has possibilities.

Thank you for the question. The "Larousse Gastronomique," (a respected encyclopedia of French Gastronomy), defines "Confit" as "A piece of pork, goose, duck or turkey, cooked in its own fat and stored in a pot, covered in the same fat to preserve it." Confit is traditionally used in "Cassoulet: A dish, originally from Languedoc, which consists of navy beans cooked in a stew pot with pork rinds and seasonings. A garnish of meats, (confit being one), and a gratin topping are added in the final stages." I have a love/hate relationship with Confit, owing, I suppose, to being an entrenched Traditionalist when it comes to food--relying on history as a guide to how a dish is intended to be prepared and presented to the customer. Yet at the same time, there is a chi-chi little devil sitting on my shoulder whispering in my ear to accept the current loose-lipped trendiness that occurs when one reads menu descriptions ca. 2013. To fool with tradition as it were. Case in point, Confit. Some menus stretch the limits of the true definition of "confit" far beyond what any food purist would deem acceptable or even reasonable. Silly and laughable in some cases. I can think of few dishes less appetizing than a dessert I once saw on a popular Northwest Bistro menu-"Buttermilk Shortbread garnished with Oregon Strawberry Confit." God help us. Did the Chef have no point of reference for this French Classic? Even worse, did the Chef actually know the true meaning of "Confit" and intentionally desecrate this hallowed dish? Is there no greater sin than to stew precious, June-ripened Oregon Hood strawberries in a simmering cauldron of duck fat? I doubt this crime in the kitchen actually occurred, (I didn't order the abomination). The berries may have been prepared using a "confit-style" cooking technique. Were the strawberries steeped in strawberry tea then condensed into a "gelee" to mimic the fat of a confit? Perhaps. Perhaps not. We were being tempted, "fooled" by naming a dish something that it wasn't. Parse the words as you may, but this was not a true "confit." Yet I am not one to inhibit the mastery and creativity of what we uncover during our Cook-Off journeys. I only offer one man's interpretation of Confit and place no boundaries upon your dish. Let's put forth some memorable Confit.

Fall is but a whisper of the recent past--at least it is where I live in the upper reaches of Eastern, Washington. We had our first fluff of snow a week ago and a reasonable November storm is predicted for this weekend with temperatures holding at a chilly 18 degrees at night. Along with the rumblings of cold winter weather and Holiday feasts, we turn our culinary musings to time-treasured, comfortable dishes. And so I invite you to join me in another kitchen adventure--the inimitable eG Cook-Off Series. In 2013, we've tackled the tricky cooking of Squid, Calamari and Octopus and we made delicious dishes out of the humble Summer Squash. (Click here http://forums.egulle...cook-off-index/ for the complete eG Cook-Off Index). But today we're shunning all manner of counting calories, salt or fat content--for what is rich in flavor is good for the soul my dear friends. Please join me in crafting, nuturing and savoring a dish of Confit.

Well, the pickles fermented on the counter for one month. The result? Decent sour flavor, a bit too salty, still not as good as Bubbles commercial brand.

Anyone know a source where I can buy just the Kitchen Manual separate? Mine got quite burned on the top of the stove!

Getting caught up here and I must tell you, that is about the most delicious fish dish I have seen. Actually much more tempting than the Turbot dish I had at Le Cirque two weeks ago. Sadly I rarely can get Turbot here in Spokane.

This is one of my treasured recipes but I haven't done it in a few years so it was time for an update. I typically dust the prawns with a flour mixture that has a good measure of salt, black pepper and Szechuan peppercorns. This time I used a batter before deep-frying. Both versions of the prawns are very good. The slaw starts with Napa cabbage dressed with sesame oil, salt, sugar, black sesame seeds, rice wine vinegar, tangerine juice and light soy sauce. This time I added cilantro, (forgot the green onions), and pickled strips of ginger, salted radish strips, chopped fermented mustard greens and these wonderful sweet and sour pickled grapes. The sauce was a new twist, a simple mixture of Korean chili paste, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar and garlic and ginger. Deep-Fried Prawns with Korean Hot Sauce and Chinese Cabbage Slaw-

On Saturday night I attended a private dinner hosted by Le Cirque, (http://www.bellagio.com/restaurants/le-cirque.aspx) and Louis Roderer Champagne. The dinner was actually served in the private dining room at Circo, (http://www.bellagio.com/restaurants/circo.aspx) next door to Le Cirque. Sadly, after nearly 15 years at Bellagio, Circo will shutter in the coming months. But not to worry, the Maccioni family will still have a strong presence in Las Vegas with Sirio restaurant at Aria and Le Cirque, whose lease have just been renewed for another 5 years. Thirty five very fortunate guests were escorted into the stunning private dining room, an intimate, elegant space reminiscent of Downton Abbey, set with 4 tables each seating ten guests. The tables were laid with the finest china, linens, silverware and what appeared to be upwards of 8 crystal glasses at each place setting. The center of each table was crowned with a magnum of the finest vintage Cristal Champagne. The one exception I make in NOT taking photos in a restaurant is when I dine at Le Cirque. From a technical standpoint, the low-lighting isn't really conducive to the best food photography, but more importantly for me is the experience. I'd rather give myself up to the food and service rather than fuss over a silly little digital camera, and, given the ambience and mood of an eponymous restaurant, I figure I should be on my best manners. Sometimes a written review is the most tempting review. I've never been to Le Cirque in New York, but I imagine the service is exactly the same as the service in Las Vegas, tenured professionals who've spend a lifetime perfecting their craft. The multi-cultural Staff at Le Cirque Las Vegas represents Russia, France, Spain, Italy and America--and a level of service that is nearly forgotten. For our dinner, we had the best of the best, Ivo Angelov, the gracious General Manager of Le Cirque Las Vegas, and his team of Captain's, Waiter's, Sommelier's, Busboys, Bread Servers and Napkin Attendees. The service at Le Cirque is what I remember from the Continental dining years of the 1970's, no detail goes unnoticed, (like pulling the chair of the ladies when they excuse themselves, bringing a fresh, crisp, folded linen at the table), yet the service is not pretentious or fawning, (you will not hear the words "Hi guys, my name is Todd"). The party was hosted by the Maccioni family and Frederic Rouzaud, CEO of Louis Roderer, who flew in from France specifically for this event. Mr. Rouzaud is just the latest member of his family to run the business, which goes back something like 7 generations. But the star of this brigrade was the Chef, a young man of Taiwanese descent who looks all of 25 years old, (and he isn't much older than that). Chef Paul Lee graduated from culinary school in Los Angeles just 7 years ago in 2006. Imagine, 7 years out of trade school and the young man garners the post of Executive Chef at Le Cirque. His career path has been on an upward spiral from the start with position at L'Orangerie in Los Angeles, and Joel Robuchon at the MGM. In 2009, he headed to New York and worked in the kitchen at Veritas, then realigned himself with Robuchon at L'Atelier de Robuchon at the Four Seasons New York. In 2011, no doubt owing in part to his exemplary resume, the Maccioni family introduced Chef Lee to Le Cirque Las Vegas as Sous Chef. Last year, when former Chef Gregory Pugin suprisingly announced his return to his native France, Chef Lee was promoted to his present, fortunate position. As soon as I sat down, Ivo came up and gently took me by the arm, "Mr. Ross, we have a seat for you over at this table. I have a special guest that will be joining you." I have to say I couldn't help but be nervous with anticipation of who the "guest" would be. After greetings with the other guests at our table, Marco Maccioni came to the table and sat down at the heralded seat of the host. Next to me. The guy from Spokane. For the next four hours, we had the memorable experience of having dinner with one of the sons of Sirio Maccioni, (http://www.lecirque.com/history) as he regaled us with the history and tales of one of the greatest restaurant families in America. The food, while at the level one would expect, was tempered by not being bold enough in terms of distinctive flavors and seasonings. A food writer friend of mine recently coined a phrase to describe the cooking of Chef Lee, "it's like the beautiful woman across the room who looks at you and winks.............then leaves." The foie gras wasn't the distinct livery flavor one expects, the sea urchin a bit pallid and tempered rather than bold, briny flavor of a creature who lives in tidepools. The chocolate globe, garnished with gold leaf, set the stage for Las Vegas, but it was literally too large and set off to float in a lake of hot chocolate sauce that was poured over the orb. The wine pours could have been more generous, a second round of Port. But friends, these are but minor quibbles given the occasion, the wines and the company. Chef Paul will hit his stride as he moves forward in his career. He'll fine that balance, that line, yet he won't cross it. It shall take time. In terms of the wines, four different vintages of Cristal in one dinner is enough to send you into a sort of champagne stupor, each vintage showing a bit more fruit as we aged from 2004, to 2002, 1996 and finally 1993. The Pauillac served with the beef course is also an entity of the Roderer Company, as is the Ramos Pinto Tawny Port served with the chocolate. Foie Gras Creme Brulee- Hudson Valley Foie Gras Creme Brulee, Passion Fruit Mousse, Granny Smith Apple Louis Roderer "Cristal" Brut, 2004 L'Oursin de Santa Barbara- Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, Yuzu Gelee, Panna Cotta, Fennel Cream, Osetra Caviar, Seaweed and Sesame Tuile Louis Roderer "Cristal" Brut, 2002 Les Langoustines Roties et Sabayon d'Agrumes- Roasted New Zealand Langoustines, Jamon Iberico, Asparagus, Parmesan, Petite Mustard Greens, Citrus Sabayon, Jus de Veau Louis Roderer "Cristal" Brut, 1996 Le Turbot d'Atlantique- Wild Atlantic Turbot, Baby Leeks, Braised Celery, Artichoke, Rutabaga, Lardon, Vitelotte Potato, Barigoule Sauce Louis Roderer "Cristal" Brut, 1993 L'Entrecote de Boeuf Wagyu Australian- Australian Wagyu Kobe Beef Ribeye, Pommes Diamond, Caramelized Salsify, Celeraic Puree, Black Trumpets, Bordelaise Sauce Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac 2000 Petite Boule de Chocolat, Eclats de Voisette Caramelisee, Glace Chocolat Blanc- Chocolate Ball: Praline Mousse, White Chocolate Ice Cream, Hazelnut Caramel Crunch, Chocolate Sauce Ramos Pinto 20 Year Tawny Port To end the evening, a precious little jewel box that we have seen before. It holds forth two small truffles, one dark, one white. Another memory of dinner at Le Cirque. I should like to think, that along with having a tattered recipe for "Pommes Puree" signed by Joel Robuchon, my dinner with Marco Maccioni will be an evening I shan't forget.

Well, I can share some first-hand family knowledge of the issue of Le Cirque creating "Pasta Primavera." On Saturday night, (review coming), I sat next to a member of the Maccioni family at a private dinner at Le Cirque Las Vegas, and as fate would have it, the subject of Captains and Waiters cooking dishes in the dining room came up, as did the subject of pasta primavera. Apparently sometime back in the early 70's or so, Sirio Maccioni was working with a partner, a Chef who controlled the kitchen while Sirio led the service team in the front of the house. Sirio had concocted a dish of pasta and vegetables at home one Sunday for his family, and he started cooking it for friends. As the tale was told, that eventually led Sirio to tell the Chef of this dish that was getting rave reviews and Sirio proposed cooking, tossing and serving the dish in the dining room at the tables. The Chef sniffed, snooted and snuffed and refused to indulge Mr. Maccioni--so he instructed the service staff to do it anyway and thus this ubiquitous dish became an American standard. To this day, pasta primavera is plated in the dining room at Le Cirque in New York. But there's another twist to the story. It's not on the regular menu. The regular menu has upwards of 32 or so listed items on any given night. However, the "off-menu" items, (over 40 in total), like pasta primavera and a whole roast chicken studded with black truffle and carved tableside are always available on request. (A kind way of saying if you are a regular at this eponymous palace, you shall have your pasta and vegetables, albeit for a lofty sum). Of course, given the occasion and my seatmate, I indulged in the story and found it quite fascinating. Whether it's true or is the stuff of culinary legend.

We hoped to dine at two other Japanese restaurants that evening, but alas they didn't have even a speck of space we could stand on and eat our sashimi. Now that was a good thing for two reasons--we would have dropped our fish on the floor and secondly, business was booming at both of these off-Strip restaurants and that is a very, very good thing. A few years back, my friend John introduced Las Vegas to a cutting-edge restaurant that was quickly gaining favor with Chefs who flocked there after dinner service for late-night bites. Since opening, Raku http://www.eatinglv.com/2008/07/raku-rocks/ has garnered nominations of James Beard Awards and the reservation book is full nearly two months in advance. Our feeble attempt to get a table didn't pay off however. We trekked on to Yonnaka, billed as "modern Japanese," http://www.eatinglv.com/2013/02/yonaka-modern-japanese-even-more-modern-er/. Contemporary, modern, whatever, again the place was packed and although the host was terribly apologetic she couldn't find a spot for us, we felt like bad cousins that showed up at the last minute. Now you would think this place was not noticed by the tourists a few miles away on the Strip--until three cabs showed-up and dropped off a party of 4 and a party of 9--and this was at 9:30 p.m. Word has spread. Not yet willing to give-up, we returned to the strip mall that houses Raku to have dessert at "Raku Sweets," http://www.eatinglv.com/2013/08/how-sweet-it-is/, the new, (as in opened in August), jewel box Sister restaurant serving French-influenced desserts. The concept at Raku Sweets is similar to what you'll find at L'Atelier by Joel Robuchon--you sit at a counter close enough to shake the hand of the Chef and watch the assembly of each dish. The tools of the artist are arrayed in front of you as you watch simply white plates become works of art. The head Pastry Chef is a young Japanese woman trained in Italy and Tokyo--producing a level of French pastry and confections that is every bit as good as what you'd find at the houses of Ducasse, Gagnaire, Robuchon and Savoy. I know. I've eaten at all the eponymous restaurants in Las Vegas that the dishes at Raku Sweets rival the best. Still to come, a private dinner at Le Cirque and an unexpected table guest, a good pizza on the Strip is uncovered and we taste the most special steak on the Strip, (a Steak aged for darn near three times as long as most).

Last night I met with my local friends John and Alexandra. My only requirements were that a) they come pick me up and b) they take me off the Strip to restaurants where the most exciting and creative cooking is taking place in Las Vegas. Anyone who frequents Las Vegas for dining has been less than impressed with the new offerings on the Strip in recent years--horrifically over-priced sushi from Nobu, burgers, steaks, pub grub and a plethora of billboards blasting the arrival of Gordon Ramsay and more "Celebrity Chef" arrivals than you can stomach-Giada, Buddy, Guy and something else from Bobby. Honestly, most of these places only see the namesake Chef at best twice a year and other than a name over the door, the cooking often falls short. Yet within a short drive of the Strip, in the "burbs" no less, you will find a number of new restaurants, Japanese and Asian to be specific, run by young, talented, creative Chefs and crew who've shrugged off the regular paycheck delivered every two weeks by the MGM corporation in order to pursue their dream of owning and running a restaurant their way--and it's paying off. Our first stop was the newly opened SOHO Japanese Restaurant, https://www.facebook.com/SohoJapaneseRestaurant, owned by Chef John Chien Lee, a native of Taiwan who left his post as Executive Chef at Social House Restaurant on the Strip to pursue his dream of serving local residents fresh, Japanese-style seafood. The restaurant has only been opened a few weeks, but you would never know based on the food and professionalism of the service staff. In fact, our waiter also works at Pierre Gagnaire's Twist and Nobu on the Strip. Five-Star service in a new strip mall restaurant no less. To give you a sense of the detail the Chef goes to, consider the Yellowtail Sashimi. Undoubtedly one of the more popular fish on any sashimi menu, it can cost upwards of $30 at the big hotels. At SOHO, the yellowtail was more than reasonably priced at $10 and easily served the three of us. It could have served four. But the devil is always in the details and this yellowtail was garnished with thin slices of Jalapeno "tempura," micro cilantro, garlic oil, yuzu soy, (made from fresh yuzu fruit), and "garlic dust." The Chef told me that he starts by tempering the garlic in milk, drying then dehydrating it, and then grating the cloves into a dust. The jalapeno and garlic were notable, but not in a bold, in-your-face manner lest the garnishes would draw attention away from the yellowtail. Trust me, the likelihood of even getting access to ask a head Chef on the Strip how he prepared garlic dust, (let alone a server presenting you with four different Japanese beers to taste before ordering), probably wouldn't happen for folks like us. Next up, our experience at a Japanese restaurant serving dessert tasting menus crafted by a Chef trained in Tokyo, Italy and France. Her tiny shop, seating no more than 12 customers, is plating Michelin-level desserts and the public is noticing.

Delicious, and like a very good sandwich, the bread was freshly made in the Patisserie, light on the dressing and mayonnaise, and delicate micro-greens for just a bit of texture.

Oh, yes there is (need for further description)! Was this a sweet, inthe stricter sense of the word, or was it almost savoury? Consistency of the carrot-pumpkin mousse? Definately sweet. One minor criticism of the French, in my opinion, is that they are heavy-handed with the sugar. A few bites is enough. The mousse, like all the mousse and custards at Jean Philippe, is incredibly silken but with a firm body. I'm always in amazement at how they can infuse such intense flavor into what appears on first glance to be vanilla pudding. Delicious.

Back in Las Vegas this weekend for 4 days of gluttony, highlighted by a private dinner at Le Cirque Saturday night. One of my first stops on any trip to Las Vegas is Jean Philippe Patisserie at Aria. There aren't too many quality bakeries where I live, certainly not a patisserie headed by a Frenchman who wears multiple gold medals as a World Pastry Champion, (both as a competitor and coach). I typically arrive in Las Vegas early afternoon, hungry after early morning flights but not so ravenous that I choose to stuff myself a few hours before dinner and unwilling on day one to pay $35 bucks for a Gordon Ramsay hamburger. Room service is expensive and arrives cold, so I make the trek to Jean Philippe and put together a Vegas/French-style picnic and take it back to the room. Today my lunch started with three mini-sandwiches of tuna, brie and ham- Caramel Mousse, Peanut Butter "Lollipop," Rosewater-Raspberry Macaroon on a Chocolate Stage- There are always a few surprises in Jean Philippe's pastries-a light vanilla mouse with a crunchy top layer of caramel, silken peanut butter mousse dipped in chocolate and topped with salted peanuts and the perfume of roses and raspberries in a tiny, perfectly-shaped macaroon. Carrot "Cupcake"- Forget any notion that this is a cupcake in the traditional sense. The only trait shared with a cupcake is the shape. The intricate assembly starts with a center of carrot and pumpkin mousse, a robe of carrot cake, a thin blanket of white chocolate and the outer coating of delicate carrot gelee. There is no need for further description.

My next attempt to make a "sour pickle" without vinegar turned to the recipe from Sara Dickerman that appeared in the October, 2011, issue of Saveur, http://www.saveur.co...eserving-Plenty. For every 1 1/2lb. of pickling cukes, use this ratio of brine- 1/2 cup dill 1 tsp. whole black peppercorns 10 cloves garlic, peeled 5 dried chiles 1 fresh grape leaf (optional) 6 tbsp. Kosher or sea salt 6 cups filtered water Now remembering that a precious heirloom was sitting on the counter holding my spoons and spatulas, I turned to the crock that most likely came from my Aunt Bertie Pink's home. Aunt Bertie most likely used this crock for pickles or sauerkraut and it rings in at about 110 years of age. The lid is long gone, but given the recipe calls for simply covering the crock with a kitchen towel, I was in business. Aunt Bertie's pickle crock- The dill and aromatics are packed in the bottom of the crock- The cucumbers are packed on top fo the aromatics, then the brine is poured in- A plastic bag is filled with water and placed on top of the pickles to keep them submerged in the brine- Now what is quite the difference with this recipe is that the pickles sit on the counter at room temperature, (ideally at 70-75), for up to 4 weeks. We'll see how sour the pickles get!

Dave I'm hoping you'll showcase one of your Tarte Tatin's seeing were in the midst of apple season. What apple variety do the French prefer for a classic Tarte Tatin?

I've got two cakes almost ready. Made them last December and they've been tucked in their brandy blanket almost a year now.

God what an abomination that was. If they guy has the title of head Chef anywhere, then shame on the sap who hired him. As Tom said, you know this is Top Chef you know this is a competition why would you do that. Water down a delicate dashi with ice? Goodbye.

Episode #1 was somewhat underwhelming, but the early episodes are never an indication of who will endure to the final rounds. I kept running through my mind all the wonderful possibilities of using turtle meat.

Well, my gruesome looking, stinky little devils turned into something quite delicious. From this- To this- To this- The salt cod was soaked in hot water for about three hours, (with two changes of water), then broken into chunks and sauteed in olive oil. Then processed with milk, cream, salt, pepper, rosemary, thyme, oregano and two mashed potatoes. And a bit of butter. For those not used to salt cod, don't be swayed thinking it is too salty, I actually add some salt to the finished mixture before popping it under the broiler.

Two weeks later and unfortunately, my pickling without vinegar experiment didn't result in a decent pickle. Nice and crisp and they retained a lot of color.....but the flavor? Way too salty, not "sour" and pretty much inedible. I used this recipe http://www.marksdailyapple.com/naturally-fermented-dill-pickles/#axzz2gnclCg9U, loosely covering the jars and storing them in a dark cupboard for three days before putting them in the fridge. I'm thinking the first problem was that the pickles never started to ferment, they didn't sit in a room temperature environment long enough and fermentation never started before they were put in a cold fridge. Secondly, I'm wondering if the addition of citric acid to keep the pickles crisp halted the fermentation process? I'm turning to this recipe from Sara Dickerman that appeared in the October, 2011, issue of Saveur, http://www.saveur.com/article/Techniques/Preserving-Plenty. The ratio of salt to water is the same in both recipes. But the difference comes in the fermentation- Mark- Loosely set the lid on top of the jar and let the pickles ferment on the counter for 3-10 days before refrigerating, (One of my fatal mistakes. I only let my pickles ferment 3 days). Sara- Don't cover the pickles, just put a bag filled with water on top of the jar to weigh the pickles down and let them ferment at room temperature, (ideally 70-75 degrees), for 3-4 weeks.

Well, I didn't get 17lbs., but boy did I walk into a bounty at the market. I stopped by after work to buy a chicken to roast, and lo and behold a special on fresh, wild, Washington chanterelles. It must be a good year up here, they are only $6.95 a pound. Typically I see them in the $25 per pound or higher range.

Great photo, delicious and tempting.