David Ross

Last night was a celebration of Pacific Northwest seafood. Fresh Puget Sound Oysters with Lemon- Seared Sea Scallops with Smoked Salish Alder Salt, Lemon and Olive Oil- Dungeness Crab Au Gratin on Toast-

I love that shot of the bubbly in the snow. I did the same thing last night! Chilled beautifully.

I've been trying to figure out what the motivations are for these Chefs to go back on Bravo for another iteration of "Top Chef." Surely the allure of money and the tug of further fame on a reality television show is the primary motivation for some, yet it also seems to beg the question of "why?" for others Cheftestants. Some of these Chefs left the dramady of reality television long ago and established themselves in their own kitchens and other business ventures. So it seems to beg the question of why, other than money and fame, would they even agree to appear on Top Chef All Stars? One could argue that it is a set-up for failure since only one Chef will ultimately "win" this competition and the time commitment to the filming schedule certainly must have had an impact on the Chef's other responsibilities. So in the end, do you think that taking the risk of losing, (and the inherent risk of knowing that you may be personally portrayed in a negative light), is worth appearing on "Top Chef All-Stars?"

Well, you've sure done a great job of preserving the shape and vibrant yellow color of the egg yolk. Very nice plating.

Beautiful photo. Now that's a dish that would definately turn someone on to "trotters."

Chris-what type of waffle iron do you use? Your waffles are beautiful. I bought a Cuisinart deep waffle iron last year and I love it. I do admit thought that I cheat and don't make my own batter. I've tried making it from scratch using the egg white recipe and while good, it never equals the powdered mix I buy-Carbon's Golden Malted Waffle Mix. It's the old-time diner mix they've been making since 1937. Delicious.

What a wonderful blog and photos--the discussion just as rich. Happy Holidays to all. I am at the Family home in Oregon roasting a prime rib of beef that has a delicious layer of fat, which, if things go as planned, will melt down through the sprigs of fresh rosemary strung around the roast and drizzle onto the potatoes below. Not overly adventurous this year, plum pud and hard sauce for dessert. Can't wait to see more on how your dinner turns out Chris.

The beef for the Daube look fabulous, all that wonderful marbling. Is it Prime grade? I do like Gruyere in Gougere's, but you might also want to try a batch with Bleu Cheese. It's a wonderful combination of salty, tangy Bleu with the puffy little Gougere pastry.

The Apple Gateau is really not so much a "cake" as a cake-like apple pudding. I put in loads of apples-the amount may scare you when you see all the apples diced and in the bowl. You can cut the number of apples from 4 down to 3 or 2, but I don't know how the final Gateau will turn out. Apple Gateau Serves 8 Cake ½ cup all-purpose flour 1/3 cup sugar 1 tbsp. baking powder ¼ tsp. salt ½ tsp. vanilla extract ½ tsp. almond extract 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tbsp. vegetable oil 1/3 cup whole milk 1 tsp. cinnamon 4 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4" dice Topping 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1/3 cup brown sugar 2 eggs, lightly beaten 6 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted Preheat the oven to 400°. Butter a 9-inch springform pan and set it aside. In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt and stir to blend. Add the vanilla and almond extracts, eggs, oil and milk and stir until well blended. Add the apples and stir to thoroughly coat them with the batter. Spoon the mixture into the prepared pan. Place the pan in the oven and bake until fairly firm and golden, about 40 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the topping. In a small bowl, combine the sugars, eggs and melted butter and stir to blend. Set it aside. Remove the cake from the oven and pour the topping mixture over it. Return the cake to the oven and bake until the top is a deep golden brown and the cake feels quite firm when pressed with a fingertip, about 15 minutes. Transfer the cake pan to a rack and allow to cool for 10 minutes. Then run a knife around the sides of the pan, and release and remove the springform side, leaving the cake on the pan base. Serve the cake warm with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream. Caramel Sauce 4 cups whipping cream 2 cups (packed) dark brown sugar 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 2/3 cup golden raisins (for rum raisin sauce) 1/4 cup dark rum (for rum raisin sauce) Place the whipping cream, brown sugar and butter in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring frequently. Bring the cream mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and reduce, stirring occasionally, until the sauce until is reduced by half or to about 3 cups. This should take about 25 minutes. (For rum raisin sauce, add the rum and raisins at this point and stir into the sauce). The sauce will thicken further when it cools. You can make it in advance and keep it covered and refrigerated until ready for service. Just reheat over a double boiler or in a microwave.

Thanks for the kind comments, I'll post the recipe tommorrow!

Apple Gateau with Vanilla Ice Cream and Caramel Sauce-

Tonight, Wild Scottish Hen Pheasant "Vallee d'Auge," (with Calvados and Cream). I sourced the Scottish Pheasant from D'Artagnan. They offer all kinds of wild game birds, including pheasant, grouse, partridge, wood pigeon and even have a supply of Wild Scottish Hare. I sauteed the pheasant in a little butter and then put it in a roasting pan with a couple of strips of bacon across the breast to keep it moist. The pheasant roasted in a 450 oven for about 30 minutes, basting occasionally with some of the bacon drippings. I also added unpeeled pearl onions to the roasting pan before it went into the oven. (I also added some fried potato balls back to the roasting pan once the sauce was finished). While the pheasant was resting, I skimmed most of the bacon fat off the pan and added about 1/2 cup Calvados. Lit the Calvados to flame off the alchohol,(and almost singed the eyebrows), then added a cup of heavy cream and some fresh thyme. The pheasant was slightly gamey but very delicate in texture, almost what I would imagine a young chicken to taste like. Delicious.

I agree--Jen's proclamation that her dish was spot on is seemingly hard to swallow. I mean, how could Collichio's tastes be that far off? In any case, after having watched that episode three times now, I'm glad she took her stinking attitude out the door.

Booze and steak plays well in Vegas!

I agree--people will flock to the place if only to say they dined at the restaurant helmed by the Chef who says "F" to his minions. (And--they saw him on FOX). I've already committed to friends I'll join them down there when the place opens and I'll reserve judgement until then-but I'm still mystified by the concept.

One of the worst-kept secrets in the Las Vegas dining scene has finally been announced in the press, Gordon Ramsay is going open a "Steakhouse" restaurant at Paris Hotel and Casino in the space formerly known as Les Artistes Steakhouse. I'm not particularly excited about Ramsay landing in Las Vegas, but my local friends down there are seemingly agog that the Chef who made the letter "F" famous will be a welcome addition to the dining scene on the Strip. Now consider a few points for discussion. 1)., Does Las Vegas need another "Steakhouse" concept? 2)., Can Ramsay do anything unique to his Steakhouse that will set it on a higher level than the rest of the already crowded field? 3)., Is this an oxymoron-the rancourous British Chef comes to Las Vegas and opens a Steakhouse, (which is largely an American concept), in a "French-Themed" Hotel? I guess I'm in the minority and not understanding this odd concept--the Ramsay Steakhouse. I imagine the Food and Beverage Executives must have done exhaustive marketing and demographic studies, preparing intricate graphs that told them pairing Ramsay with a Steakhouse concept would be a winner. I would personally prefer to see a menu presented in Las Vegas that echoes the dishes one would find in the London restaurants.

What a wonderful story. Thanks!

A wonderful story came across our local news this evening. A local hiker was lost on Mount Spokane for two days this past weekend. There is heavy snow up there and warming temperatures made it compacted and icy. Well, the poor fellow had nothing to eat except snow. He reported that he made a ball of snow, closed his eyes, and then imagined that he was eating a huckleberry sno-cone. Yes, he dreamed of eating a fluff ball of shaved ice soaked in huckleberry syrup. And it sustained him until he was found by other hikers. He's now resting comfortably.

Most definitely. (They're good frozen!) I absolutely love Nanaimo bars. I am fortunate to have a co-worker who hails from Calgary who makes two huge batches every Holiday Season. Delicious. And yes, I've frozen them and they are actually quite good when eaten before they fully thaw!

I can rarely find a Rack of Pork in the market, but this time of year our Costco always offers it. I'd never prepared it on my rotisserie before, but knowing how juicy and delicious chickens are after turns on the spit, I figured I would try the pork. Voila--same results as fowl--moist, tender meat. (Now had this been one of the "heritage" breeds of pig I think the meat would have had more flavor, and this was pretty darn good). Served with Red Cabbage and Apple and Potato Dumplings, (which were incredibly bland and won't be served again, at least not with this recipe).

Chris, your menu looks wonderful, but what about a cheese course? You wouldn't have to offer more than 3 or 4, and I think with the right wine that would really make your menu even more special. I'm also going with French themes this year, but rather than one big main dinner on Christmas Day, I'll be cooking a series of French style menus on weekends throughout the Holidays. Tommorrow night will be a Braised Pheasant with Calvados and served with a cream sauce.

Two days after the book launch party, I was invited to a celebration at the Bellagio in recognition of the hotel restaurants that were named in the book: Picasso, Chef Julian Serrano Osteria del Circo, Chef Massimiliano Campanari Yellowtail, Chef Akira Back Prime Steakhouse, Chef Sean Griffin Sensi, Chef Martin Heierling Le Cirque, Maccioni Family Each of the noted restaurants provided small tastings of some of their newest, seasonal dishes. While I walked into the reception expecting little nibbles, I soon realized we were in for a ten-course tasting menu that opened with canapés and closed with a selection of desserts. Incredibly, the Chefs had pulled off the feat a mere two days after being recognized as “essential” restaurants in Las Vegas—and the reception occurred in the middle of a Friday afternoon—just hours before dinner service would begin. Picasso Selection of Picasso Canapes Circo Butternut Squash Bombolotti Butter, Sage, Amaretto Cookie, White Truffle Chef Campanari preparing the Bombolotti- Spinach and Sheep Ricotta Flan Smoked Pancetta, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Warm Cabernet Vinaigrette Yellowtail Big Eye Tuna Pizza Micro Shiso, Truffle Oil Prime Steakhouse Crabapple-Wrapped King Crab Fresno Chili, Chive, Lime 32-Day Dry-Aged Rib Eye Marinated Hon Shimenji Mushrooms, Miso-Mustard Sauce Sensi Fresh-Shucked Nantucket Bay Scallops Uni Butter, Seaweed Foam I asked Chef Heierling if the Scallop dish was on his current menu at Sensi. He said that they were just trying something with these freshly-shucked Scallops and came up with the idea of glazing it with Uni butter. I urged him to put it on the menu. That day. Raw Milk Goat Cheese Bites Beet, Basil Dynamite Live Prawns Crispy Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, Creamy Chili Dip Sonoma Duck Foie Gras Brulee Rose Petal, Cocoa Nib, Brasied Bacon Le Cirque Classic Blanquette de Lapin Braised Rabbit Leg, Crispy Spaetzle, Fava Beans, White Truffles and Alsatian Riesling Sauce Le Cirque Dessert Extravaganza Phillipe Angibeau, Le Cirque Executive Pastry Chef

In November, I was invited by my good friend John Curtas to a book signing party for “Eating Las Vegas 2011, The 50 Essential Restaurants." John co-wrote the book with Max Jacobson and Al Mancini—the self-proclaimed triumvirate of Las Vegas Restaurant critics. (Determing which one is “the” voice of Las Vegas restaurants is a matter of taste so to speak). The book launch and signing party was held at L’Atelier at the MGM. As those who have dined at L’Atelier know, it is not a generous space for a large, Las Vegas style launch party with an appearance from Kim Kardashian. The mood and décor of L’Atelier is more fitting of a restaurant known for attracting serious customers who are intent on sampling the French cuisine of Robuchon in an atmosphere more “casual” than the formal Robuchon temple next door. Yet the personality and reputation of L’Atelier is in fact quite an appropriate venue for a small gathering of some of the top Chefs of Las Vegas, (and the world), to be feted at the much-anticipated announcement of which restaurants were included in the book, (and who was included in the “Top Ten” list). Chef Joel Robuchon hosted the event and was in the tiny kitchen that night, working alongside his crew preparing plates of signature L’Atelier bites including Sea Scallop Crudo, Langoustine Fritter with Parsley Sauce, Sliders with Foie Gras and Hangar Steak accompanied by Robuchon’s iconic Pommes Puree. The inimitable Robin Leach acted as the Emcee, proclaiming Las Vegas as standing alongside Paris and New York as one of the world’s top dining destinations. (Much to the consternation of the guests from Los Angeles that were in the house that night). Herewith is the list of the Top 10 Restaurants. (In alphabetical order, which doesn’t mean the restaurant at the bottom of the list is any less worthy than number one)- -Alex (Wynn) -Bartolotta Ristorante Di Mare (Wynn) -Bar Masa (Aria at CityCenter) -Cut (Palazzo) -Guy Savoy (Caesar’s Palace) -Joel Robuchon (MGM Grand) -L’Atelier (MGM Grand) -Picasso (Bellagio) -RM Seafood (Mandalay Place) -Twist (Mandarin Oriental) Although the above restaurants come exclusively from large Strip hotels, off-Strip and ethnic restaurants are also included in the book. Now before we start to criticize the critics for the omission of your favorite Las Vegas dining room, realize that the voice of this book sets a different tone than the rest of the field. As opposed to other “guidebooks” which rely in large part on collecting press releases from the hotels and restaurants, “Eating Las Vegas” is written by three qualified Food Writers with opinionated palates whose tastes are as distinctly different as their styles of writing. Finally, the power of three ruled in the writing of the book—two of the authors could out vote the third. However, a sidebar to the rule was that each had absolute veto power. As such, it was rumored that the three musketeers nearly came to blows when two voiced support of a restaurant only to have the third express his utter frustration, horror and distaste for including a wretched restaurant that can’t make a meatball in the book. (The “veto” section of the book is one of the more intriguing chapters). While the most popular part of the book may be who made the Top 10 list, in my view this isn’t a tome to the “best” restaurants in Las Vegas. As noted in the title, it’s a guide to the “Essential” restaurants one should consider when dining in Las Vegas. Of course, I do have my own thoughts about the restaurants in Las Vegas that garnered a mention in the book. When I got home and read through the book, I realized that the most fun came not from my depressed memories of an over-salted guinea hen at a French restaurant or duplicitous service at a seafood palace, (both experiences happened at “Top 10” restaurants this year). No, the real fun came from relishing in the opinions of others whose tastes for dining in Las Vegas are different than my own.

Many good points. But again, this would be a friendly competition that would hopefully end with a few laughs and a bottle of wine, provided by the loser, of course. Thomas Keller vs. ??? Julia Child vs. ?? Let's see. Maybe Thomas Keller, (American Chef doing French), vs. Boulud, (The French that took on America). Julia Child in her day maybe vs. Craig Claiborne? Cookbook Author and Cook vs. Restaurant Critic and Cook?

Fleur de Lys closed this Fall. However, Chef Keller is opening a new restaurant in the same space but the opening isn't set until the first of the year. The new restaurant is apparently going to feature a tapas style menu.