David Ross

Now that's a liqueur I wouldn't have considered for curing salmon. Describe the flavor. Did it discolor the salmon?

Call me a geek when it comes to saving food and cooking magazines- BBC Food-Random issues going back about 5 years. Saveur-every issue back to 2000. Bon Appetit-Holiday issues, (Nov. & Dec.), going back to 1986 Gourmet-Holiday issues, (Nov. & Dec.), going back to 1973 And yes, I regularly pull them off the bookshelf and read them and cook with the recipes in the magazines.

What a great topic. Show me more photos.

At least once a year, (typically in the Spring when the Copper River Salmon are running in Alaska), I make gravlax. Copper River Salmon is so rich and oily it doesn't need a lot of salt or sugar mixture to cure it, and it only needs a few whispers of liquor for flavoring. Two years ago I used brandy when I made gravlax using a recipe from Julia Child. It was very good, and you could barely taste the brandy. This past Spring I made gravlax using some Aquavit that one of my employees brought back from her hometown in Norway. I felt that the Aquavit was too strong, it left somewhat of a bitter flavor when I was only planning on it lending a light note of anise. Maybe it was the combination of the Aquavit interacting with fresh dill? Maybe I used too much Aquavit or I should have substituted fennel seeds for the fresh dill? Any ideas? What types of liquors have you used when curing salmon gravlax?

Recently I made an Alsatian "Flammekueche"-a bacon and onion tart on puff pastry based on a dish made by Chef Andre Soltner, (Lutece). The original recipe calls for "Farmer's Cheese," but offers a substitute made of creme fraiche blended with cottage cheese. The cheese base was incredibly smooth and silky and melted very well, but I'm wondering how it would taste with fresh Farmer's Cheese. I've read you can easily make it at home but I've never made an attempt. Have you ever made Farmer's Cheese at home?

My Mother made what she called "pudding cake." She mixed a box of Jello Chocolate Pudding mix into a boxed Devil's food cake mix and added the required eggs, oil and water. The pudding apparently made the cake more moist. I don't really remember much about her "pudding cakes" and if they actually tasted more moist than a regular cake.

I love the delicate flavor of nut oils-especially walnut oil and hazelnut oil. Yet my repetoire of preparations is limited to a simple vinaigrette made with nut oil, Dijon mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper. I do vary the type of vinegar depending on what I'll be dressing with the vinaigrette. I especially like white, pear-flavord balsamic vinegar and hazelnut oil in a dressing I combine into a salad of greens, toasted hazelnuts, sliced pear and bleu cheese. Are there other uses for nut oils other than in a vinaigrette?

Sounds fantastic! Can you share? My pleasure. Courtesy of Calumet Baking Powder, 1934, (edited to fit within more familiar techniques today)- Lemon Gold Cake- 2 cups sifted cake flour 2 tsp. Calumet Baking Powder 1/2 cup butter or other shortening 1 cup sugar 3 egg yolks, beaten until thick and lemon-colored 3/4 cup milk 1 tsp. vanilla or 1/2 tsp. lemon extract Sift together flour once, (not sure if this means after it was sifted before measuring), add baking powder and sift together three times. Cream butter thoroughly and add sugar gradually and cream together until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks and beat well. (I assume the egg yolks should be beaten together ahead of time as directed in the ingredient list then added to the creamed mixture). Add flour alternately with milk, a small amount at a time. Beat after each addition until smooth. Add flavoring. (I think a couple of teaspoons of freshly grated lemon zest would be a nice flavor addition). Beat well. Bake in two greased 9-inch layer pans in moderate oven (375) 25 to 30 minutes. (You would want the cake pans to cool at this point for about 10 minutes then remove the cakes from the pans and let cool before frosting). Spead Luscious Lemon Frosting between layers and on top and sides of cake. Double recipe to make 3 10-inch layers. Luscious Lemon Frosting- 3 tsp. grated orange rind (odd they call it lemon but call for orange rind) Dash of salt 3 tbsp. butter 3 cups sifted confectioner's (powdered) sugar 2 tbsp. lemon juice 1 tbsp. water (I think you could also add some lemon extract and lemon zest to the frosting for a boost in flavor) Add orange rind and salt to butter; cream well. Add part of sugar gradually, blending after each addition. Combine lemon juice and water; add to creamed mixture, (I think you could substitute milk for the water), alternately with remaining sugar, until of right consistency to spread. Beat after each addition until smooth. Makes enough frosting to cover top and sides of two 9-inch layers. For a deeper yellow frosting, tint with yellow (food) coloring. I think back then food coloring was not a taboo addition to add coloration to recipes. Seems like today we try to achieve color in a recipe through natural means without the addition of food dyes, (even if they are natural dyes). Heck, if it makes the frosting more "yellow" I'm all for it.

Some of the best Old-Fashioned cake recipes can be found on the advertising pages of "Women's" Magazines of the first decades of the 20th Century. I happen to collect vintage magazines to get inspiration from old recipes, but at the same time to learn from a historical perspective about recipes from the past. Many of these old cake recipes don't need to be updated for contemporary tastes. This evening I checked my copy of the March, 1934, Edition of "Woman's Home Companion" and there are recipes for: "Delecta White Cake," on an ad for Crisco "Wonder Chocolate Layer Cake," on an ad for Swan's Down Cake Flour A basic yellow cake recipe on an ad for Royal Baking Powder "Lemon Gold Cake with Luscious Lemon Frosting," on an ad for Calumet Baking Powder A "Cheese Torte" which is a type of cheesecake "My Best Gingerbread" on an ad for Brer Rabbit Molasses An ad for Pillsbury "Sno-Sheen" Cake Flour "Chocolate Cake with Whipped Cream Frosting on an ad for "Sparkling" Pyrex Ovenware Gosh, cake was quite popular in 1934!

Wonderful memories--and stories of cake. Imagine, a Pastry Chef today would have a bonanza creating a poundcake with pistachio and chocolate flavors!

Growing up in the 60's, my Mother and Grandmother always seemed to have a cake under a glass dome on the counter, (or in the fridge. "Icebox" cakes were one of my favorites). Over the past decade(s) or so, some of the "Old-Fashioned" cakes seemed to have been pushed out of the way in favor of trendy cupcakes with flavors and frostings we never would have imagined back in 1964. However, old isn't always bad, and if you're like me, you still have a sweet tooth for a slice from one of the "Old-Fashioned" cakes you remember from your youth. My Mother often frosted her cakes with "7-minute Frosting,"-a frosting made with egg whites and literally "cooked" over a double-boiler for 7 minutes until it had a glossy sheen. Mother often frosted a "Burnt Sugar Cake" with the 7-minute Frosting. Years before caramelized sugar was the rage in pastry, we called it "burnt sugar," which when you think of it, is an appropriate definition. Sugar melted until it "burns" or turns golden. I suppose putting the term "burnt" on a cake menu wouldn't sound appetizing today so we call it "caramelized" instead. I still make Mother's Burnt Sugar Cake with 7-minute Frosting, but I add Heath Bar bits to the cake for a nostalgic crunch, and I add some burnt sugar syrup to the frosting. I gussy-up Mother's cake with a coating of toasted coconut and a dusting of Heath Bar bits. Now I'm not a Master Baker and I don't always present bakery quality cakes in terms of presentation. Mother didn't either, but trusted, prized cakes don't have to win beauty contests. They have to taste great. Do you have a favorite "Old-Fashioned Cake" you still make?

About 15 years ago I started using dried ingredients in Chinese Cooking. Dried scallops mixed with Chinese sausage and sticky rice then wrapped in lotus leaves and steamed, dried shrimp stir-fried with minced pork and spooned over fried Chinese long beans are just two of my favorite dishes using dried ingredients. Venturing into the kitchen with the thought of using dried ingredients can be pretty overwhelming without a bit of education. I took numerous trips to Asian markets and gradually built-up a small library of Chinese cookbooks before I felt comfortable that I had a basic knowledge of the different types of dried ingredients. While packaging today has come a long way by offering both Chinese and English labels, there are still plenty of little plastic bags that don't give you a written clue as to what's inside. Gnarly, dried shreds of what looks like something out of a sci-fi movie can be somewhat unappealing-yet once you get beyond the lack of visual attractiveness and start experimenting in the kitchen you find that dried ingredients add an incredible amount of texture and flavor to Chinese dishes. One of the dishes I've somewhat mastered is a stir-fry of Scallops or Prawns with Wood Ear Fungus and Cucumber. Wood Ear Fungus, or Dried Black Fungus, sort of looks like bits of dried black leather before it's reconstituted in hot water. Like any dried fungus or mushroom, 30 minutes in hot water brings Wood Ear Fungus back to life. Cut into strips, it adds a bit of crisp texture and mild flavor to the dish. Fresh cucumber adds another layer of texture and a clean, fresh flavor which accents rich Sea Scallops. The sauce is a basic mixture of soy sauce, oyster sauce, garlic, ginger and clam juice thickened with cornstarch. Next week I'm going to try my first attempt using Dried Lily Bulb. Any ideas on what type of dish I should use them in?

I'll be there for Friday night.

And for the "best" breakfast I'll say the "Eggs, Eggs, Eggs" dish at Silk Road at Vdara Hotel in the City Center complex. Created by Chef Martin Heirling, also the Chef at Sensi at Bellagio.

David would you please list your top ten "BEST" Las Vegas restaurants based on the food, on/off the strip, whether in a hotel or not? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would appreciate and benefit from your list. If you get around to it..........we leave for L.V. shortly and will be there for three full days. Thanks for asking. This isn't exactly a top ten "BEST," but a list of my best choices based on some popular types of cuisine found in Las Vegas. Steak- CUT, The Palazzo. The steaks; corn-fed, (my personal choice), grass-fed and Wagyu in different grades are the main draw to Wolfgang Puck’s steakhouse, but as often is the case, it’s the side dishes that set a steakhouse above and apart from the competition. At CUT, try the soft, buttery Bone Marrow Flan served with Mushroom Marmalade and Parsley Salad or the Veal Tongue, Marinated Artichoke, Cannelini Beans and Salsa Verde, (a new-style tongue salad if you will), to start off your meal. Craftsteak, MGM. Tom Collichio’s signature steakhouse in Las Vegas is an excellent choice if you are a single diner craving red meat. Step up to the bar without a reservation and you’ll be handed the full dining room menu. It’s a great place for people watching and you won’t have to worry about why the waiters and customers in the dining room are staring at the single diner sitting at a table in the corner. The bartender’s make a very good Old-Fashioned Cocktail with sweet and slightly smoky Maker’s Mark Kentucky Bourbon. Note: Mario Batali’s Carnevino Steakhouse at The Palazzo gets a lot of attention, but I found the steaks overly salty and tougher in texture than what one would expect from cattle duly selected by Batali’s steak guy, Adam Perry Lang. The best part of the meal; the tiny crock of “lardo,” (aka pig fat), that was served with the warm ciabatta rolls. (I asked for two extra crocks). French- L’Atelier, MGM. Fine French food from Joel Robuchon in a somewhat casual scene as you sit at the counter watching Michelin-Star Chefs in Waiting slice thin shards of Spanish ham and craft Lobster Fritters with emerald green Parsley Sauce. (A far less expensive and formal adventure than what diners are offered at Robuchon next door). Note: L’Atelier and Robuchon are my favorites amongst the offerings of the “French Masters”-Robuchon, Ducasse, Gagnaire and Savoy. The austere, Northern European style dining room at Guy Savoy sets the stage, (albeit too calmly for my tastes), for a meal of traditional French cuisine. The service is good, yet not at the exceptional level one expects for the prices. Robuchon is the Master who dabbles in all media-oils, watercolors, printmaking and sculpture. Think of Savoy as a classicist who paints in traditional styles with oil paints. Italian- Valentino, The Venetian. Las Vegas seemingly overflows with Italian restaurants, (or as some call it “Italian-American”). Stick with what has endured for years-the gracious style and passion for true Italian Cuisine brought to America by James Beard Award-Winning Piero Selvaggio and Chef Luciano Pellegrini. If quail is on the menu, order it. You’ll leave the table wondering how Chef Pellegrini prepares such tender, juicy little birds. Note: The best time of year to visit Valentino is in the Fall when the white truffles from Alba, Italy are in season. Starting around the second week of November, (call ahead to insure the truffles are in harvest), Chef Pellegrini imports these rare fungi weekly. Order the Risotto with White Truffles. You’ll drift off into a slumber, dreaming of a dish so rare and delicious you’ll never order, (or make at home), any other plate of risotto....until next year at Valentino when the white truffles are in season. Buffett- Wynn. The design of the high-ceiling, front entry is lush with pastel colors and towering displays of faux fruits and vegetables-the perfect entre into what seems like a buffet for the rich, country club crowd. (and it is). The selection is not as vast nor crowded as other buffets, (Cravings at The Mirage and Le Village Buffet at Paris for example), but the quality of the dishes far surpasses the other buffets I’ve tried, (and that is most of them), in Las Vegas. The dessert bar is especially good what with all the little tarts, cakes and other pastries and confections on offer. Bellagio. The design is more corporate industrial than the Wynn, the selection larger, yet the Buffet at Bellagio has slipped a bit on recent visits spanning the past 3-4 years. The salad selections, especially the cold seafood salads, are always my favorite. The little potato croquettes served at breakfast that have apparently replaced the old-style hash browns are oddly sweet and lacking much potato flavor. Burger- In-N-Out Burger, next to MGM. Las Vegas is flooded with chi-chi, expensive burger joints. While some rely on gimmicks to draw in the crowds, (burgers from specially bred steers who munched on organic diets, “adult” milkshakes with silly names and even a place with waitresses outfitted in skimpy Russian Army-style uniforms), avoid them if you can. In-N-Out Burger does burgers the right way, (sans the gimmicks and trends), by keeping things simple and concentrating on the basics of a good burger restaurant-beefy tasting juicy burgers, crisp, hot fries and thick shakes. That’s it, and they do it consistently well throughout their locations. I especially like the fact that In-N-Out is steps away from the MGM. I can grab a cheeseburger and fries and retire to my room-away from the maddening crowds of Las Vegas. Deli/Coffee Shop- Tropical Breeze Café, The Flamingo. Believe it or not, I have a “favorite coffee shop” in Las Vegas. One thinks of the Flamingo as being on the “B” level of Strip Hotels. It doesn’t have the chic swagger of the new Cosmopolitan or the towering stuffiness of the Wynn/Encore, but The Flamingo has one of the best old-style coffee shops in town. Ignore the early 80’s island motif and sit at the counter where a veteran waitress will serve you a hot Rueben Sandwich-salty corned beef, tangy Russian dressing, kraut and gooey Swiss cheese blanketed between buttery, toasted marble rye. It’s cheaper and far better than some of the more well-known New York imports, (i.e. Carnegie Deli at The Mirage. Canter’s Deli, TI, (Treasure Island) If you can stand the wait in line, the wait at the counter while they deliver your takeout order and the lack of decent Black and White Cookies, Canter’s Deli is another good choice for hot pastrami or corned beef sandwiches, crunchy Kosher dills and big orders of fries. Chinese- Ping Pang Pong, Gold Coast for Dim Sum. For Dim Sum served in the traditional manner-cart after cart of authentic dishes-this is the place. It’s in the Gold Coast, a few blocks off the Strip in a worn-out, tired, smoke-filled casino, but it’s worth the trip. Dong Ting Spring. It’s a short taxi ride off the Strip and it’s located in a cement mall in what they call the “Chinatown” section of Las Vegas. But appearances aside, this is the place to take a culinary journey to the cuisine of Hunan-spicy, flavorful and unique dishes that won’t set you back more than $15 bucks for plates that serve four. If you dream of dishes like Stewed Beef Tripe in Bao Ching Style, Fish with Shredded Turnip and Braised Crab Cha-Sa Style, you need to go to Dong Ting Spring. Endorsed by David Ross and Steven Shaw, (I think Steven agrees with me). Wing Lei, Wynn. I haven’t ventured to an upscale Chinese restaurant on the Strip ever since Chef Richard Chen left Wing Lei at Wynn last year. While I am sure it is good, the prices at the upscale Chinese restaurants on the Strip will shock you. Be aware and read an online menu, with prices, before making a reservation. Noodles, Bellagio. For a decent Dim Sum and Noodle lunch at a Strip hotel, Noodles in the Bellagio is a good choice. Tucked in a back corner that doesn’t get a lot of traffic, you’ll always find a seat at a table or the counter is available. Last time I was there, the Dim Sum was served on plates brought from the kitchen-not in the traditional manner on rolling carts. Upscale Indian in a quiet room- Mozen Bistro, Mandarin Oriental. What terrible timing, opening a 5-star hotel property amidst a terrible economic downturn in the most economically depressed city in the country. How they survive I don’t know, but the Mandarin Oriental Hotel houses two of the best restaurants in Las Vegas. One known-Twist by French Master Pierre Gagnaire and one lesser-known, Mozen Bistro serving a combination of Indian, Thai, Japanese and other “Pan-Asian” style dishes. You may enter the room wondering where everyone is, (this is a large hotel and there may not be any guests dining in the restaurant at 7pm on a Wednesday night), but you’ll be treated with 5-star service and spicy, flavorful cuisine properly served, (like the little dishes displayed on a banana leaf with various condiments served with your Lamb Biryani). Upscale Lunch- Tableau, Wynn or Society Café, Encore. It’s not easy finding a fine dining venue open during lunch in Las Vegas. I suppose it’s due to the fact that the hordes of conventioneers are only let out of their meeting room cages for 30 minutes each day before they are hoarded back for another inspirational speech. And tourists certainly don’t want to pluck down $23.00 for Wild Striped Bass with Crayfish Risotto and Carrott Reduction. I do. Both Tableau and Society Café offer what some call “New American” cuisine at lunch in deliciously vibrant, comfortable settings with a view and polished service. Pastry Shops- Jean-Phillipe, Aria. If you’re like me, you want to have some sweets in your room to satisfy those late-night cravings, and I don’t know where you live, but I don’t live next door to a Patisserie helmed by a World Pastry Champion. When you visit Las Vegas, take a trip to Aria and taste the pastries and confections crafted by French Pastry Chef Jean-Phillipe Maury and his brigade of pastry chefs. The breakfast pastries are light, flaky and butter-rich. For lunch, Jean-Phillipe offers savory sandwiches and delicious salads-my favorite is the smoked salmon and spinach salad. But we don’t go to Jean-Phillipe for smoked salmon or chicken salad sandwiches, we go for the sweets. The carrot cake is not the spice-cake with cream cheese frosting you might expect. No, you’ll encounter a display of bright orange domes holding layers of chocolate ganache, carrot “cake” and a center bomb of carrot mousse. Of course, this is Las Vegas so the cakes and tarts are liberally garnished with swirls of chocolate dusted with gold leaf. Payard Patisserie, Caesar’s Palace. If you’re staying closer to the center of the Strip, take a trip to Payard in Caesar’s Palace. While the selection of pastries, confections and ice creams is not as grand as what you’ll find at Jean-Phillipe, the quality and art of the French Pastry Chef are evident at Francois Payard’s Shop. And the added bonus is that Payard’s Bistro next door is open for breakfast, lunch and now dinner serving affordable French Bistro fare.

Scallopine is an incredibly versatile dish-you can use chicken, pork or the traditional veal-and it’s inexpensive and easy to prepare. Last night I made Veal Picatta using Scallopine that I cut from a Veal Loin. Last Fall I bought 2, 1lb. Veal Loins from D’Artagnan. The Veal cost $20 per lb. While that’s more expensive per lb. than the pre-cut Veal Scallopine I can find in the supermarket for 12.99 per lb., in the long run, cutting the Scallopine myself was far cheaper and I can control the size of the cut. I used the first Veal Loin wrapped in bacon and roasted. For the second Veal Loin I cut half in Scallopine and I still have enough left for a few thick medallion steaks. For the Veal Picatta I cut thin Scallopine and then pounded them to about 3/8” thickness. Then I seasoned the veal with sea salt and pepper, dredged in flour, then dredged in beaten egg, then dredged in breadcrumbs. I used fresh breadcrumbs last night but I prefer Panko, (which I couldn’t find in my cupboard). Fresh breadcrumbs don’t get as crispy during frying as Panko. I only cooked the Scallopine for about 2 minutes per side in oil over a medium-high heat. Once the Scallopine was golden and crispy I made a quick sauce by deglazing the skillet with dry white wine, then lemon juice and capers and a small finish of a few tablespoons of butter. What meats do you use for Scallopine and what types of dishes do you prepare?

I haven't, but that sounds like it would make a very spicy and delicious brew.

How ironic, I was planning on making a Cabbage Gratin this next week. I found the recipe in an old Chinese cookbook I have. It's not specifically called a "Gratin" but rather noted as "Baked" but the techniques of a gratin are the same. It sounds very rich-lard or butter and evaporated milk are included in the recipe. The original recipe called for pork tenderloin but I like to substitute with Chinese Ham. I also add some chopped garlic, ginger and soy to the sauce for added flavor. Baked Napa Cabbage and Butter 2 2/3 lbs. Napa Cabbage 4oz. chopped Chinese Ham or Chinese Sausage 1 1/2 tsp. salt 1 tsp. sugar 2 cups stock vegetable stock 5 tbsp. butter or lard 1/2 cup chopped onion 1 tbsp. chopped ginger 2 cloves chopped garlic 5 tbsp. flour 1 tbsp. soy sauce 2 cups retained cabbage cooking liquid 1/2 cup evaporated milk Rinse the cabbage and cut it into quarters. Cook in vegetable stock until soft. Remove and drain, retaining the vegetable stock. Heat the wok then add 4 tbsp. oil. Stir-fry the Chinese Ham; add the cabbage and the salt, sugar and 2 cups of the retained vegetable stock. Cook for 5 minutes; remove and drain, (retain the stock). The stock will be used later. Place the cabbage in a casserole dish. Preheat oven to 450. Heat the wok then add the butter (or lard). Stir-fry the onion until soft; add the ginger and garlic; add flour and stir until "fragrant." Add the retained cabbage poaching liquid, soy sauce and stir to make a thick sauce; pour sauce over cabbage. Place the casserole in the oven. Bake casserole for 15 minutes, or until the top is golden brown; remove and serve. It's a rich dish but a different way to make a gratin using cabbage.

I do always shop at the same Asian market. I'll go back and see if I can get a photo of the galangal and ask them if it's actually what they put on the description label.

Today I was in the local Asian market and saw that they had both fresh galangal and ginger. I've only used fresh galangal once as a substitute for fresh ginger--but I found it far more spicy and fiery than ginger. Do you interchange the use of galangal and ginger or do you use them separately in specific dishes?

Workshops sound fun. I'd be happy to help with a cooking workshop or do something using ingredients from the Pacific Northwest.

This just can't be satire. I think that is giving the "talent" far too much credibility.

Far from it being the "over-40" crowd who is digging Bitchin Kitchen. I'm 53. I find the show dreadful. Far worse than Ms. Semi-Homemade and Ms. Y'all Deen. Far worse.

Do some producers have no shame? The modern world may have sunk to a new low with the program "Bitchin Kitchen" currently airing on the Cooking Channel. If you haven't seen it, enter at your own risk and be prepared to be immediately turned off by the host, Nadia G., (short for Giosia). Billed on her website as "the Julia Child of the Net Generation," the show is set in a "candy-colored kitchen decked out in animal print and leather." Ms. G., apparently gained her cooking skills in 2007 when she debuted "Bitchin Kitchen" as a three minute mobile show. A runaway success, the show quickly gained the attention of mainstream broadcast media." And the world of cooking on television has been all the poorer for it. Ms. G's attempts at street slang in her broken English-Russian-Italian goomba dialect only add to the pain one goes through as one watches her "chop a little onion, EH-EH-EH." Can this be the all-time low-brow level of television cooking programs?

Absolutely-NOW is the time for home cooks. While I wax nostalgic over the dishes of my Grandmother's and Great Aunt, they had a fraction of the ingredients, equipment and techniques I have at my disposal today. The only fresh fish my Great Aunt Bertie had access to was rainbow trout out of the Snake River in Southern Idaho, and that was in the warmer months when they got out to fish. She may have gotten an occasional fresh salmon when the family drove over to the Oregon Coast, maybe a Dungeness Crab or two. Today I have access to seafood from around the world and day of the year. My Grandmother's probably only knew the basic techniques like frying, roasting, poaching and grilling. Yet today I'm exposed to a variety of cultures and ethnic cuisines and techniques like wrapping fish in banana leaves. Definately, the world for cooks today is ever-expanding. We just need to push ourselves to explore the bounty we have in our hands and not fall into a trap of opening plastic packages and calling that "cooking."