David Ross

The only good thing I saw today was Julia preparing salmon gravlax. What a delight to see how she still leads the standard for cooking on television all these decades after those shows debuted on WGBH in Boston. Following Julia was Graham Kerr, aka "The Galloping Gourmet," doing his rendition of Baba au Rhum. I thought he looked pretty silly but I suppose at the time those shows aired and the height of his popularity it was fun for the audience. I didn't get much out of it. Julia clearly shines above all the others. I saw some show the other night but I quickly lost interest and didn't care to go back and even search for the title. It had hope, but the guys presenting the show and the production and writing was so pitiful I left after about 15 minutes. They were making handcrafted sodas. Again a lot of hope--teaching people how to craft sodas at home with contemporary and unique flavors is a topic that I think would be quite popular today. But the way they presented and edited the show was just awful...

What a wonderful piece, and I am going to print it and mail a copy via post to my dear 86 year-old Mother, Janet Edna Ross. You see, Mother doesn't have a computer, nor does she know the inner-workings of what we call e-mail. She receives mail via the U.S. Postal service with a first class stamp on it. Mother is not familiar with the term "Bechamel" sauce, but she still makes a wonderful "white sauce" every Christmas for our delicious creamed onions. Every December, Mother pulls out the same hand-written recipe card that her Mother, Edna Pink, used for making the white sauce for the onions. I think Mother knows how to make the white sauce from memory, she's been doing it for probably 65 years or so, but there's something special about seeing and touching Grandmother Edna's recipe written in ink with a fountain pen. It's a Holiday tradition that makes a simple "white sauce" extra special. Now I don't know if Mother's recipe is truly traditional or not as she adds a few sprinkles of nutmeg to her white sauce--I'm not sure what Escoffier would call a sauce with nutmeg. In our home we call it just plain good. Thank you Maggie for evoking a special memory from my Mother's kitchen.

Last night started with grilled spring onions with a smoked tomato vinaigrette. I got the vinaigrette recipe out of our local newspaper. It comes from a local restaurant that serves the Vinaigrette with Copper River Salmon, Grilled Cheddar Polenta Cakes and Braised Red Chard. The article caught my eye because we are in the first weeks of the Copper River Salmon season here in the Pacific Northwest. I was interested in reading how our local chefs were going to serve the salmon this year, but I decided that the dish with the polenta, chard and tomato vinaigrette was a bit much for this special salmon. I do love smoked tomatoes, so I chose to serve them as a dressing for simple grilled spring green onions. I use a stove-top smoker to smoke tomatoes and this time I used hickory chips. I smoked the tomatoes for about 15 minutes, then peeled them and addded them to the blender with garlic, salt, lime juice and zest and white wine vinegar. The puree was strained and then I blended that with olive oil, cilantro, basil and chives and stirred in a teaspoon of liquid smoke to boost the flavor. I cut the spring onions lengthwise and then soak them in water so they basically steam and grill at the same time. And the beautiful Copper River King Salmon. The season started this year very early. It showed up in our local markets in Spokane on Friday, May 21. Taking the cue of what I read in the newspaper article, I used a new technique this year for cooking the salmon. It's based on a technique from Jon Rowley, a Seattle-based seafood expert who is noted as one of the leaders in bringing the Copper River Salmon to fame in recent years. Rowley recommends searing the salmon in a hot pan for a minute or two and then turning it and placing it in a low oven, 225-250 degrees, for 10-15 minutes depending on the thickness of the filet. I was skeptical as I didn't think such a "low and slow" roasting technique would work. But it did, and when I tasted it I realized why. The Copper River Kings have so much oil and are so incredibly juicy that you don't want to sear the heck out of the salmon, (and why would you when it costs upwards of $28.00-$48.00 per pound right now?). Searing and roasting at a high temperature can tend to dry out those essential oils, so Mr. Rowley's technique of a quick sear over high heat to seal in the juices and a low heat to roast and finish the fish to medium-rare is a more reliable way to preserve the unique characteristics of the Copper River Salmon. Next week I'm going to do a three-step cooking method of lightly smoking the salmon first, then searing it and then finishing it in the low oven. I wanted to stay true to a Northwest themed dish, but I couldn't find the wild rice in the market that I was looking for so I served the salmon with spaetzle with toasted hazelnuts and brown butter. The sauce was a simple Buerre Blanc with a dash of chipotle chile powder added for a bit of spice.

That's a very good question and thank you for pointing it out to me. I make the cake with both types of canned pineapple and I often go back and forth-canned in syrup or canned in natural juice-so that's why I get lax in interchanging the words in the recipe. Thanks for the reminder of an important detail. Of course, it's a matter of taste. I agree with you on the point of using pineapple canned in syrup, it's very sweet. A 20 ounce can of pineapple slices canned in 100% pineapple juice with no sugar added has 14 grams of sugars. The same size can of pineapple slices in heavy syrup with added sugar, has 22 grams of sugars. The cake in the photo above was made with pineapple slices in heavy syrup. If we did a side-by-side photo comparison of two cakes-one made with pineapple in juice and one made with pineapple in syrup-we'd probably not see as much sticky caramel bubbling around the edges of the cake and out the sides of the cast iron skillet than we would with the juice version. The caramel from pineapple canned in juice is going to be more "runny." Using pineapple in juice won't make a sticky, caramel that seeps down into the cake, leaving the cake a bit more dry than the syrup version. And finally, if I use pineapple canned in natural juice it won't have as much of that gooey caramel clinging to the Maraschino cherries on top of the finished cake. I guess for me in the end if I had to make a choice I'd go with pineapple canned in syrup. Mind you, I only make this cake maybe two, three times a year. It's very, very sweet, but oh so worth it to taste something so wonderful if only a few times a year.

I wanted to share my recipe for Pineapple Upside-Down Cake. While I don't use the prize-winning recipe from Mr. Dole's canned pineapple contest, I use a "retro" recipe from a time-tested, classic cookbook-the 1968 edition of the Better Homes and Gardens "New Cookbook." The byline inside the red and white checked front cover of the cookbook reads "The New Cookbook has sold 13 1/2 million copies-America's favorite by far." Fourty-two years later no doubt millions more American home cooks have discovered the delicious results of the recipes within the metal rings and tabs of this beloved cookbook. Section four is where the "Cakes, Frostings, and Fillings" reside in the "New Cookbook." Behind the yellow tab, residing on page 70, you will find recipes for Applesauce cake, White Cake Supreme, the regal Lady Baltimore cake and a favorite of farm families, the Buttermilk Cake. Yet the prime space on the page, the upper-left corner, is reserved for the Pineapple Upside-Down Cake Recipe. Of course, one must carry on the tradition of Mr. Dole's legacy by starting with a can of Dole pineapple slices. In terms of a cooking vessel, I use a cast iron skillet. Cast iron is perfect for any type of cake where you are making a caramel-be it a Pineapple Upside-Down Cake or an Apple Tarte Tatin-it retains heat consistently without letting the caramel burn. And, even more importantly, a well-seasoned veteran cast iron skillet is naturally "non-stick." In other words, you don't need to buy an expensive, high-tech, non-stick pan that may not endure the rigors of your kitchen. A cast iron pan is reasonably cheap, hearty, heavy and will last a lifetime. Now I do make a few slight variations from the printed recipe. I double the amount of caramel, (the syrup on the "bottom" of the cake), yet I keep the amount of "cake" batter true to the recipe. This way I have a greater ratio of "sticky" caramel and pineapple on the "bottom" to the amount of "cake" on top. At least that's what we start with. The Caramel, pineapple and cherries- 1 20oz. can sliced pineapple, save the juice (you will have some juice and pineapple leftover) 6 tablespoons butter 1 cup dark brown sugar Maraschino cherries Heat the oven to 350. Heat a 9" cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the butter and melt. Add the brown sugar and 1/4 cup of the reserved pineapple juice. Stir until the brown sugar melts and begins to gently bubble. Cook for about 8 minutes, then add the pineapple slices, covering the bottom of the skillet in one layer. Stud the center of the rings of pineapple with Maraschino cherries. Note: this is a matter of taste, I happen to love lots of cherries, so I stud each ring of pineapple with two cherries and place cherries in the spaces around the pineapples slices. Turn off the heat and as you prepare the cake batter. The Caramel- The Cake- Reserved canned pineapple syrup to make 1/2 cup 1/3 cup Crisco shortening 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1 egg 1 tsp. vanilla 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 1/4 tsp. baking powder 1/4 tsp. salt Cream together the shortening and sugar. Add the egg and vanilla. Sift together the flour, baking salt and then add to the creamed mixture. Add the reserved canned pineapple syrup. Note: If there was note enough leftover pineapple syrup from the can, add water to make 1/2 cup). Spoon the batter over the top of the pineapple slices in the cast iron pan. Smooth the batter so that it seals over the top of the pineapple. Bake in the 350 oven for about 35 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean. The Cake- Remove the skillet from the oven and let it cook about 8-10 minutes on a wire rack. Don't let the cake cool too much or the caramel will start to set and it won't easily release from the skillet when you turn it "upside-down." Place another rack over the top of the "cake," then gently invert the skillet, turning the cake "upside-down." The cake should gently release onto the rack, revealing the "top" of pineapple slices, caramel and cherries. "Upside-Down"- Pineapple Upside-Down Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream-

The fresh asparagus in Eastern, Washington keeps coming. I've never seen a season like this-week after week after week of fresh asparagus. Thank you Mother Nature. This past winter I sure didn't miss the 4' of snow we had in the winter of '09, and I sure like the spring crop of asparagus in '10. The price is now down to 99 cents per pound. Last night I did a simple Cream of Asparagus Soup. The garnish is Steamed Asparagus Spears and a few threads of Spring Onion-

Sunday May 9- L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, MGM Grand- Champagne, White and Red Wine, Monbizillac with the Sweet Course As we waited for the earlier seating to finish brunch, we were ushered into the intimate setting of the formal Robuchon restaurant at the MGM. As you enter, there is a small bar to the left of the reception foyer. To the right, we were given entrance into the private dining room, an exclusive table that I would imagine is rarely seen by the public-a small room really, with a long black table seating no more than 12 very lucky guests. The décor of the dining room is currently in the “Spring” theme with bright greens, yellows, orange and crimson colors with vintage bird cages decorating the small room. To the right is a small terrace with brick and flora and fauna-a very quiet oasis you would not imagine is planted next to the very busy MGM casino and "KA" Cirque du Soleil showroom just next door. The Manager noted that Robuchon is noted for their legendary cart services and while they are offering a variety of menu options with limited options of courses right now, the most popular menu is still the sixteen course menu “degustation” currently priced at $395.00. The restaurant is full nearly every night of the week and is typically booked three months in advance. The best seats at L’Atelier are always at the counter where one can watch the army of Cooks, Chefs, Servers, Managers, Sommeliers and Hostesses scurry through and around the tiny confines of the kitchen and behind the counter. I counted upwards of 25 team members tending over the preparation of our brunch plates. In the center of the team, hovering over each plate and quietly dictating service was Chef Joel Robuchon himself. Before the first plate arrived, I reached into my pocket for my camera and to my horror, I realized that I left the battery recharging in my hotel room. I wouldn’t have a photographic collection of my brunch at L’Atelier. I was crushed. But later I realized that photos of the brunch dishes wouldn’t harm this final Vegas Uncork’d report in the least. A few photos of cookbooks would do just fine. The servings at L’Atelier were not large-each plate offered skewers of no more that two or three bites-but one doesn’t need an excessive amount of food when you are experiencing such rich, natural flavors. Each plate was precisely sculpted yet without pretense, inviting the customers senses to say “I am not so fussy, please, go ahead and enjoy tasting this delicious morsel of French cuisine.” And so we begin- Assortment of Breads and French Butter First Plate- Tomato, Olive Oil, Basil Second Plate- Maine Lobster, Sherry Vinaigrette, Romaine Third Plate- Zuchinni, Tomato, Mozzarella Fourth Plate- Scallops, Sugar Snap Peas, Black Pepper, Chives Fifth Plate- Scampi with Tumeric Oil, Peppers, Carrot, Espelette Pepper Sixth Plate- Dover Sole, Scallion, Dill Oil Seventh Plate- Frogs Leg, Garlic and Parsley Purees Eighth Plate- Foie Gras Teppanyaki, Tomato Confit, Arugula Ninth Plate- Grilled Asparagus, Artichoke, Tomato, Maitake, Zuchinni, Spiced Carrot Sauce Tenth Plate- Quail, Asparagus, Sweet Teriyaki Sauce Eleventh Plate- Duck Wrapped in Smoked Bacon, Bitter Orange Marmalade, Twelfth Plate- French Angus, Confit of Peppers Sweets- Cup of Chocolate, Fresh Berries, Pineapple, Nougat, Confection, Cookies, Marshmallow, BonBon, Truffle As brunch was ending, Chef Robuchon came into the dining room and met with each of the guests to give us a personally signed copy of his new cookbook, “The Complete Robuchon-French Home Cooking for the Way we Live Now.” Chef Robuchon has a bit of difficulty with English, so he was escorted by the Manager who had given us the tour of the formal restaurant. As I shook his hand, I asked the Manager to remind Chef that one year earlier when we met in Las Vegas I had the occasion to have Mr. Robuchon sign my copy of “Simply French,” written by Paticia Wells many years ago. Robuchon’s recipe for “Puree de Pommes de Terre” went on to spark a revolution throughout restaurants in America, yet few are able to duplicate the silky, lush texture of the original rendition to this day. Suddenly, Chef Robuchon’s eyes lit-up, “Ah, Oui, Oui, Yes, Yes, David, David, I remember, I remember,” he said in his broken English. “Pommes Puree, Pommes Puree.” I must tell you it gave me chills. The French Master and the man from Spokane, meeting again in Las Vegas and remembering this simple potato dish. It wasn’t about Michelin stars, it was about cooking a potato puree at home and Chef Robuchon remembered. I was thrilled. From our “Klatsch: Popping the Cork in Vegas,” report of 2009, “David, the condition of these pages show that this recipe can be made by the home cook for the family. A pleasure. Joel Robuchon. Las Vegas, May 8, 2009.” When one travels into the culinary unknown of Las Vegas and the week we call “Uncork’d,” we don’t know how the story will turn out. It may start with a wondrous dish of “Foie Gras Custard Brulee with Salted Brioche,” at Sage. It then turns to a quiet conversation over lunch with Alain Ducasse about Oregon Morels and spills into a raucous Friday night with 2,500 people crowding around the pools at Caesar’s, scrambling to see Bobby Flay. We found ourselves stirring, and stirring, and stirring a pea risotto and packing salt around a whole Sea Bream at the Wynn. Vegas Uncork’d offers different experiences for different tastes. For me, the week of Vegas Uncork’d isn’t just about the food, it was also about customer service at dinners not formally associated with the events. I encountered a delicate service touch when I sat down to dinner at MOzen bistro at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. A place card was put at the table setting with a rarely seen, old-fashioned custom-“Welcome David Ross” hand-scribed in ink with a fountain pen. Yet we also suffered the indignity of inexcusable service at RM Seafood, a restaurant whose Chef should be setting a far better standard regardless of the night you dine at his restaurant. Such are the highs, and the lows, of an incredible week of food, dining and learning that we take away from our week in Las Vegas. And then, in the end, on a quiet Sunday afternoon after most of the attendees-the editors of Bon Appetit, the press, the PR people, the photographers, the “beautiful people” and the like, have all left the environs of Las Vegas and “Uncork’d,”-I once again found myself chatting with a French Chef about a cookbook he wrote intended for the home cook. Aside from the ornate trappings of Robuchon’s formal dining rooms, the crystal bottles of cognac in the bar, the mahogany bread trolleys and the Michelin Stars, these two cookbooks, “Simply French” and now “The Complete Robuchon-French home cooking for the way we live now,” are symbols of why I go to “Vegas Uncork’d,”—to learn about food, flavors and cooking. “For David, For Delicious simple and tasty French cuisine With friendship, Joel Robuchon, Las Vegas, May 9, 2010.”

Sunday, May 9- After the embarrassment displayed by the staff at RM Seafood on Saturday night, I returned to my hotel wondering if this dreadful experience was going to ruin what had otherwise been another memorable trip to Vegas Uncork'd. Yet there was one more event to follow on Sunday morning that would redeem my faith in Las Vegas and its wondrous culture as one of America’s great restaurant cities. Hundreds of creative, talented Chefs, restrauteurs and staff members ply their trade every day throughout the city. One off-night at one restaurant is not going to mar my long history as a supporter of the dining scene of Las Vegas or take away from the achievements and hard work of these talented professionals. A year ago at an Uncork'd event, I had the occasion to meet a genial Frenchman and spend just a few moments chatting with him about a cookbook he wrote in 1991, far beyond what anyone was thinking about in Las Vegas at Uncork'd last year. On Sunday, May 9, 2010, precisely one year after visiting with him about a humble dish of “Puree de Pommes de Terre” last year, I again met with this kind French craftsman and we sat down and talked about simple home cooking just as we did one year ago. It was delightful and that was the moment that brought my week at Uncork’d full circle. I won’t reveal the full depth of the story, but I think you have an idea of where the story will lead. Now mind you, this kind man has won upwards of 25 Michelin Stars—the third of the French Masters that I dined with during my stay in Las Vegas during Uncork’d.…

Saturday, May 8- RM Seafood, Mandalay Place, Mandalay Bay- The formal event at Vegas Uncork’d on Saturday night was billed as the “Fashion Feast Gala: A Delicious Evening of Style and Taste,” at the Bellagio. I have not been a fan of past banquet events at Uncork’d, so I decided to pass on the banquet this year and join Jeff for dinner at RM Seafood and my plan, (more on that story later), would be to attend the after-hours Uncork’d event at the pools at the Palazzo hosted by Restaurateur and Winemaker Joe Bastianich, “Crushed: Wine That Rocks,” a combination of wine, food and music. Now I did hear later that the “Fashion Feast Gala” delivered on the promise of ‘style,’ (e.g., Las Vegas style that is), in the form of Cat Cora and Olympic Figure Skater Johnny Weir in ‘fashion’ on the ‘catwalk.’ Honestly I don’t think we missed anything, but those in the banquet hall said they had fun. As I mentioned in my last post, Chef Moonen is currently quite popular for his appearance on Top Chef Masters on Bravo. You can read about Top Chef Masters here. For this report we’re going to focus on our dinner at Chef Moonen’s Las Vegas restaurant, RM Seafood. Let me begin the review of RM Seafood by starting with a little background. Earlier in the week, we had planned on dining at the informal RM Café downstairs. The menu features a raw bar, sushi and more casual seafood grills and fry-ups, fish and chips, chowders and steaks. There is an extensive list of wines and micro-brews. We made the decision to change our plans mid-week and dine at the more formal restaurant upstairs. The upstairs restaurant area includes a large bar and the menu in the dining room includes both ala carte selections and a tasting menu. The service is intended to be more formal than the service downstairs. While the focus of the report is our dinner and the food and service, it’s important to give you some background history so you can weave it into our report and you can be thinking about this introduction as we go along. In the end, I think you’ll understand how this piece of the story fits into our experience. That afternoon there had been an event associated with Vegas Uncork’d at RM Seafood hosted--“Culinary Theater-All the Kitchen’s a Stage with Rick Moonen, Hubert Keller and Susan Feninger.” The event was hosted by Andrew Knowlton, Restaurant Editor of Bon Appetit. Attendees had the opportunity to meet the Chefs and taste their dishes while listening to their adventures on “Top Chef Masters” and other forays in the restaurant business. While I am sure it was great fun, there were customers to serve that evening in both RM Café and RM Seafood Upstairs, so after the event the staff had to go to work. When I arrived, the hostess was unable to find our reservation. I explained that we had made prior arrangements to change our reservation from the Café to the upstairs dining room. She was unable to locate the reservation, but was more than kind in accommodating our request for a table for four. I had noticed the Café was busy, but the upstairs bar was virtually empty at 7:15 pm., and the dining room was not full. The hick-up with the reservation was minor, (at that point), and after a brief meet and greet with Chef Moonen we went to our table. The dining room currently offers a five-course tasting menu for the quite reasonable price of $65.00. Were you to ask me the price of the tasting menu at RM Seafood three years ago before it closed, (and re-opened earlier this year), I would have probably quoted you a price at least double that amount. However, I should forewarn you, it would serve you well to go online and review the tasting menu as four of the courses have a “supplemental” choice with an additional price tag attached to it. Were you to choose four of the “supplemental” choices it could bring the cost of your tasting menu to $120, (still a reasonable price point considering the quality of the food). There is a wine pairing available matched to the tasting menu you choose for an additional $55.00. Diners have three choices within each of the five courses on the tasting menu. I've listed just a few of the choices in my review-the choice of at least one in our party and then my selection off the tasting menu. Chef Adam Sobel is the Executive Chef at RM Seafood. For a young man he has an impressive resume, having worked in Las Vegas at Company American Bistro, Guy Savoy and Bradley Ogden. He is venturing somewhat into the creative aspects of molecular gastronomy. His plates can be whimsical and precise, the food playful and the texures interesting. Yet attempts at whimsy can often be confusing to diners that may not be informed as to what a Chef is intending to do with trends. Such was the case with our Amuse-the kitchen’s interpretation of a “BLT.” (I apologize for not offering you photos, the lighting of the dining room didn’t provide me the ability to portray the food in the manner that would do it justice). The waiters came to the table with oddly shaped bowls and placed them on the table. We actually thought they looked like they were going to fall over, so we bent down and turned our heads, thinking the bowls were placed on their sides. (They weren’t, they were intended to sit on their sides). The bowl held a spear of romaine, a cherry tomato spiked with a thin slice of bacon and the dressing was a “foam.” The bacon was crisp and smoky, it just was so paper-thin there wasn’t much taste to it and cherry tomatoes in May don’t have much flavor-nor do “foamy” salad dressings. Another waiter brought warm rolls and a can of what appeared to be caviar. Knowing that Caspian Caviar would not be served at a restaurant that stakes its reputation on serving sustainable seafood, I didn’t expect he would open a can of sturgeon roe. It was a foil for the butter receptacle. The butter tasted as if it had a tangy cheese added to it. It was a nice touch to see a restaurant serve warm rolls throughout dinner. We had been wondering why there was a large glass in the center of the table filled with herbs and what appeared to be a stalk of sugar cane. A waiter came to the table and poured in some black tea and left, not explaining what he poured in or why. (Another attempt at some sort of creative gastronomy I supposed). We would find out at the end of the meal what this brew was all about. First Course- We ordered all three of the first course offerings on the tasting menu- -“Black & White” Diver Scallop, Black Garlic, Young Coconut -“Spider” Crab Artichoke, Sunchoke, Ruby Red Grapefruit -Steak and Potatoes A5 Japanese Wagyu Beef Tartare, Untraditional Garnish ($15 supplement) I had the “Spider Crab,” served in a porcelain crock. The waiter removed the top of the crock to reveal a rim of Dungeness Crab and a thick layer of Spider Crab and Sunchoke beneath. (I was pleasantly surprised to see the Dungeness being a Pacific Northwesterner). The small supremes of tart grapefruit perfectly accented the sweet, rich crab meats. Second Course- We ordered two of the three second course offerings- -Onion Soup 3000 Caramelized Onion Chip, Gruyère Custard, Onion Velouté -Bacon and Eggs Crisp Jamon Serrano, Andraki Farm Egg, Crispy Chinese Noodles, Asparagus Three Ways I chose the bacon and egg dish which was presented in a deep bowl with the fried egg on top of a thin layer of fried noodles with the bacon mixed in a custard of asparagus. At first I wasn’t sure what to make of the dish—I only saw a fried egg on top of crisp noodles—then I broke through the soft yolk of the egg into the crispy noodles and dove into the asparagus custard studded with asparagus spears, mixing the soft, gooey and crispy textures with the different flavors. It was delicous. The food to this point had been good, but the first lapses in service were beginning to become apparent. There were different waiters serving the courses and the waiter that took our order only appeared sporadically. One waiter brought the bread and uncovered the caviar tin of butter while another waiter poured in the mysterious tea elixir. The wait between the Amuse and first and second courses started to become apparent and the Sommelier who introduced himself and crafted the wines to serve with each course of our tasting menu rarely appeared. Most of the wines were introduced by different waiters. At the table next to us, a party of three ordered a plate of Sushi and then waited, and waited, for what seemingly was an endless amount of time for their next course. One of the Managers appeared, and after numerous hand gestures and handshakes, a tray of martinis appeared, then more handshakes and martinis, and apologies, and their dinner continued, and continued…… Third Course- For the fish course one person at the table ordered the supplemental menu item- -Roasted Turbot with Saffron Chorizo Congee, Mussel and Rice Cracker, ($15 supplement) -Baked Alaska King Salmon, King Crab, Yellow Endive, Salmon Roe, Orange Carpaccio I chose the Salmon. Baked salmon is not a preparation that you would typically see in a fine-dining restaurant, but Chef Moonen had properly trained the kitchen to cook the fish to a perfect medium-rare so that it retained moisture-a refreshing alternative treatment from the typical seared and roasted salmon. The bitterness of the endive and orange carpaccio was the perfect accent to the rich salmon, and who would refuse the crisp, refreshing texture of King salmon roe? Up to this point the superior food had overshadowed the inattentiveness of the service staff, but the beautiful plate presentations and delicious flavors could no longer mask the lack of attention to detail. We waited so long between the third and fourth courses that the Sommelier, who we hadn’t seen in a very long time, came around with a second glass of the wine he had poured in anticipation of our fourth course, the red wine for the meat course. It was apparent that the second glass of wine was in deference to the long wait for the meat course to arrive at the table, yet no apology was offered. Fourth Course- Three in our party ordered the lamb dish while I ordered the supplemental rabbit dish- -Rabbit Trio-Rack, Crispy Rillette, Morel Risotto, Fried Quail Egg, ($15 supplement) A “Rack of Rabbit” is a cute little thing. I referred to it as eating a nice little “bunny” at the table, definitely an unpolitical thing to say I am sure. It was a delicious tidbit I can assure you. The most delectable part of the dish was the Crispy Rillette--the tender meat wrapped in smoky bacon cuddling next to the morel risotto, made all the more buttery with the rich yolk of the quail egg. Now the ultimate service mistake would happen next. An error that is inexcusable and unforgiveable. After an interminable wait for our fifth and final course of desserts, the waiters paraded up to our table with………..another set of main courses. Yes, displayed at the table were four sets of dishes and the waiters proceeded to announce, “And here we have for you Gentlemen, the Lamb and the Rabbit………….” You can only imagine the looks on our faces, and the faces on the waiters at that moment. We looked at each other, they looked at each other, we looked at them. They looked at us. “Er, excuse me but we already had the Lamb and the Rabbit…………….” I cannot tell you, (nor do I remember as I was too stunned), to even think if an apology was offered. I honestly think the embarrassment was probably too much for the poor fellows to muster up anything to say. They removed the plates as quickly as they could and whisked them back to the kitchen. And then we waited, and waited, and waited. For dessert. Fifth Course- Jeff chose the Italian style dessert and I went with the Tropical theme- -Italian Citrus Lemon Mascarpone Cannelloni, Olive Oil Ice Cream -Tropical Crème Brûlée Passion Fruit Curd, Marinated Pineapple, Papaya-Aloe The Tropical Crème Brulee was simply presented in a large bowl. The brulee was proper and the passion fruit curd and pineapple sweet. The papaya and aloe had a bitter and metallic taste not to my liking, although I have a friend who apparently likes aloe gelee so who am I to judge aloe desserts? At this point the wines apparently had been forgotten, but Jeff made a valiant attempt to ask for the wine that had been intended to be served with the dessert course. It came, at least I think it did. I forgot the vintage. At times the cuisine at RM Seafood can be confusing, a struggle between simple preparations showcasing the beauty of the bounty of the open sea and the freshwater seafood the restaurant is known for and the trendy, molecular gastronomic creations of Chef Sobel. Sometimes the phrase less is more is noted by the example of our opening BLT. Yet that is a minor point in terms of the food at RM Seafood. The food overall was superior. The stunning dishes I tasted were the Rabbit and the King Salmon. And that is as it should be. The King Salmon should be the best dish at RM Seafood-“The King of Alaska,” the title of the PBS show that earned a James Beard Award for Chef Moonen. We would come to find out later that the spotlight shown on the event that afternoon would throw both the front of the house and the kitchen staff into a frenzy that evening--and we had become the unsuspecting victims, (along with at least three other tables), of their confusion. Apparently the event had thrown the reservations into a twitter, causing the Café and the restaurant to have additional customers they had not planned for. That’s certainly a symptom, not an excuse. The Uncork’d event had been planned months in advance. One should assume that an event like this would in turn inspire attendees to choose to dine at the restaurants, which in turn would cause the staff to be prepared for the dinner rush and staff appropriately. And following on that thought, one would make more than every reasonable effort possible to insure that the seamless service the restaurant performs every night is offered to the guests on this special night, including having extra Manager’s on the floor. For us, the expectation of a wonderful evening of exceptional food, (and some of the dishes were quite good), and exceptional service fell far short of the mark. And due to the four-hour length of dinner at RM Seafood, the event at the Palazzo was nearly over by the time I got in the cab line to leave RM Seafood. Long waits between courses, a primary waiter that wasn't primarily overseeing our table, a Sommelier that didn't seem to be overly concerned with attending to our table after the initial pour, multitudes of waiters serving plates at all the tables, confusing, confusing service, nary an apology in the house and then the ultimate horror of the second serving of the main courses. Should there ever be a chapter written on how not to perform fine dining service this will be included in the course. So it begs the question, was the experience at RM Seafood so far off the mark as to cause me to not dine there again? That’s not a question I can necessarily answer with a simple yes or no. As you’ve read through the review, you’ve seen that the food was superior, the salmon and rabbit dishes were exceptional. I’ve dined at RM Seafood in the past and it was exceptional, both the food and the service. Does one off-night of service scar a restaurant for life? No. Does this poor experience mean that the restaurant deserves another chance? Probably. Will that chance happen the next time I travel to Las Vegas? Probably not. There are far too many new and current restaurants in Las Vegas that serve equally stunning seafood and cuisine at this level along with attentive service that I’ll be more willing to patronize before I return to RM Seafood. As you’ve seen in our reports so far, we’ve dined at new restaurants like MOzen Bistro and Sage, with rising Chefs and innovative cuisine and detailed service. We cooked with Paul Bartolotta, who continues to offer the freshest seafood in the stunning settings of the Wynn. Those are restaurants I won't hesitate to dine at again on my next trip to Las Vegas should the opportunity allow. No question. As the economy very slowly improves in Southern Nevada, the dining scene in Las Vegas is again moving forward. In the coming months, Chef Scot Conant will open Scarpetta and Chef Jose Andres will open one of his highly popular restaurants-both will find a home at the new Cosmopolitan Hotel and Resort. These restrauteurs are no doubt keenly aware that the combination of their cuisine and the experience of their guests must be flawless the moment the doors open lest they lose those customers to their competitors. Exceptional food is just a part of the equation, but another element has to be an attention to focusing on the details of superior customer service. Lackluster service will only leave a restaurant behind when the market is moving forward. And that silly little glass of tea? After dessert a waiter came to the table with a dish of Petits Fours, three small confections actually. He brought forth a small pot filled with liquid nitrogen, (more of the molecular experience) and proceeded to pour it into the tea glass. The brew began to spew white smoke and he instructed us to pour some of the steaming tea into our small glasses as it was intended to end the "dining experience." It had, indeed, finally ended our "experience."

Our next report will be about a dinner not formally associated with the events of Vegas Uncork'd--a dinner that Jeff and I had with friends at Chef Rick Moonen's RM Seafood at Mandalay Place at Mandalay Hotel. As many of you know, Chef Rick Moonen is currently recognized for his appearances on the "Top Chef Masters" series on Bravo. And just last week, Chef Moonen won a James Beard Award for the Best On Location Television Show for an admirable piece he did for the PBS Series "Chefs A'Field" titled "The King of Alaska" about the nobel King Salmon and how it is tied to the lives of the Native Americans of Alaska. While the Bravo drama is in the forefront today, Chef Moonen has been a steadfast advocate of sustainable seafood for over 30 years, far before the term was in fashion and he continues to be a leading voice among Chefs in the effort to inform his peers and the public about being more responsible with the seafood we harvest and eat. But our review will focus on another aspect of a Chef's work, the foundation if you will, that allows all of the other opportunities to arise--the daily work in the restaurant kitchen and the food and dining experience of the customer out front. It is an aspect of the Celebrity of a Chef that is often overlooked today, but one of importance nonetheless--the experience of the customer in the restaurant that takes place each day outside the spotlight of the cameras. I think you'll find our perspective quite interesting.

Saturday, May 8-(continued) All-Star Interactive Lunch with the Chefs of Wynn and Encore- Saturday, May 8, continued As Jeff mentioned, Chef Paul Bartolotta is intense about the quality of the seafood he imports from the Mediterranean. Jeff asked Chef Bastian-Giesecke if the recent rumblings of the volcano in Iceland had any effects on their seafood shipments. Normally the seafood comes via Heathrow in London, but during the volcano disruptions, they made arrangements to have their products shipped from Rome via North Africa, eventually making way to Las Vegas. Now that’s a focus on quality for the customer virtually unheard of, (even when Mother Nature gets a bit testy). Another shot of some of the beautiful bounty of the Mediterranean- For the main fish course I was paired with Denise Valdez, KLAS-CBS anchor. I was lucky, Denise knows about food and cooking. She hosts the regular “Dining and Dishing” feature on KLAS with none other than our fellow eGullet Member, Mr. ELV himself, (better known as eatinglv.com), Mr. John Curtas-the bon vivant of Las Vegas. The task before us—to pack a whole fish (other tables had other types of fin fish that Chef Bartolotta had procured for the event), into a crypt of salt enhanced with a mound of crushed star anise, wild fennel pollen, lemon zest, orange zest and egg white. Once the fish was packed in the salt it would be whisked back to the ovens and baked. The ingredients for our fish course- Wouldn’t it be nice to have labels on all your ingredients at home?- While the fish was baking, I would prepare a vinaigrette to dress the fish while Denise prepared an accompaniment of zuchinni. The ingredients for the vinaigrette included orange juice, lemon juice, orange zest, lemon zest, olive oil, mint leaves, basil leaves and salt. That’s it, everything simply muddled together and then strained. Some of the tables added a bit of the vinaigrette to the sauté pan with the zuchinni but we kept things simple, sautéing the zuchinni in olive oil and then seasoning it with salt and fresh ground black pepper. Back in the massive Wynn kitchens, our little 1 pound display fishy had been replaced by the giant ocean beast that Jeff showed us above in his post. Although we had used a good amount of spices and aromatics in the salt crust, it only gave a whisper of exotic scent to the fish-it wasn’t overpowering at all. This is a photo of Chef Stratta’s “family plate” of the fish filleted and boned and served on a platter with a separate platter of the zuchinni. Magnifique. Third Course, Pesce in Crostate Di Sale Profumato-

Saturday, May 8-(continued) All-Star Interactive Lunch with the Chefs of Wynn and Encore- Let me go back to Saturday and the Interactive Lunch at Wynn. Now Ladies and Gentlemen, Jeff has been far too modest with you in terms of his abilities as a risotto cook as the following photos will portray. As Jeff mentioned, the opportunity to get personal instruction from Chef Stratta and cook alongside Chef Giesecke was wonderful. I learned how professionals draw the maximum flavor out of a risotto--tips that I found invaluable for this simple home cook who always seems to struggle with this most basic of dishes. You could read volumes of cookbooks from Lidia Bastianich and Marcella Hazen without ever gaining the insight of a personal tutorial. Chef Stratta at the ready- Here are some valuable tips for the Spring Pea Risotto with Wild Mushrooms adapted from Alex restaurant- -Chef Stratta uses Vialone Nano rice rather than the more well-known Arborio rice for his risotto because he prefers the structure of the grains. -Chef Stratta keeps the stock boiling throughout the cooking process, (not just warm), as he adds it to the risotto. He says boiling stock is absorbed better by the rice. (I always kept my stock at a simmer). -Pea puree is added to the rice to deepen the pea flavor. (I always just settled for peas, no puree. This same method works well for asparagus risotto-add asparagus puree in addition to asparagus spears). -Instead of adding cream, Chef Stratta whips the cream before adding it to the risotto, giving the final dish both a creamy and lofty texture. -To accent the flavor, texture and name of the dish, the final garnish is fresh pea shoots. Now on to the cooking. Here is Jeff’s team-a member of the Japanese press, Jeff and Chef Bastian-Giesecke- Mise en place- And the stirring begins, Jeff and his Sous Chef. Chef Giesecke stood to the side, not wanting to interfere with his talented kitchen staff- Stir Jeff, stir, stir- “On the line” plating the risotto, Jeff intensely garnishing the plates- Now can you think of a more beautiful spring dish? I present you with Jeff’s masterpiece- Second Course Sweet Pea Risotto with Wild Mushrooms

Saturday, May 8- All-Star Interactive Lunch with the Chefs of Wynn and Encore- The great joy of attending Vegas Uncork’d is that it gives one the opportunity to experience so many events on different levels-from the intimate setting of having a leisurely lunch with Ducasse and discussing his childhood in Southwestern France while sipping White Bordeaux. Some tend to prefer the classroom to learn the fine art of slicing sushi and pairing it with sake or crafting fine artisan chocolates and pairing them with teas. Others go for the boisterous party with 2,500 of their closest friends amidst the legendary pools at Caesar’s and watch Hubert Keller scratch at the DJ table. Those silly French. I happen to like to end my Uncork'd weeked with brunch served by a fellow named Robuchon. Yes, Vegas Uncork’d is an experience like no other. Speaking for myself, (but I think Jeff will agree), one of the funnest events we attended at Uncork’d was the All-Star Interactive Lunch at Encore where we had the opportunity to cook with the Chefs of Wynn and Encore. The lucky attendees, (another sold-out Uncork’d event), had the opportunity to cook alongside a Chef while another Chef was on stage giving instruction, (which was also projected on two large video screens). It was great fun and the champagne and wine flowed as we prepared a delicious three-course lunch. The main demonstration stage- Beautiful, fresh flowers are always in abundance at Wynn- Mise en place for our first course- Prime Grade Tenderloin, (hmm, what are we preparing?)- Each table seated ten guests and had a Chef. Our table included 4 from Las Vegas, the honorable Ross and Meeker, a couple from Tennessee and two ladies representing the Japanese press. Chef David Walzog, SW Steakhouse, giving the instructions to begin prep, (Barbara Fairchild, Bon Appetit Editor, sitting at the table with members of the Wynn family)- Our Chef was Mr. Carl Bastian-Giesecke who works with Paul Bartolotta at Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare. Chef Giesecke is from Sweden and has worked all over Europe, including time with Chef Roger Verge—and now Ross and Meeker shall be his Sous Chefs for the second and third course! (May the culinary world first take a deep breath on this day). One of the ladies from Las Vegas who will assist Chef Giesecke with the First Course- Dicing the tenderloin- And the opening dish of our “Interactive Lunch”- Steak Tartare with Aleppo Pepper, Black Onion Seeds and Garlic Chips- Now course number two will be presented tommorrow, but I should forewarn you, Meeker is a mean stirrer, of Risotto that is. He stirs and stirs and stirs. Butter, whipped cream and pea puree is involved. He is stirs and stirs and stirs. And in the end..............

Well, we've returned the Northwest and Southwest, but the best is yet come-three more reports on Vegas Uncork'd-the Interactive Lunch where Jeff threw down a delicious Spring Pea Risotto, a dinner at RM Seafood and a review that will surprise you and brunch with the third French Master, Chef Joel Robuchon. The activities at Vegas Uncork'd are fast and furious so it's virtually impossible for us to report live in the moment-if we did we wouldn't be able to give you the photos and quality reporting that you appreciate. Thus, the reports may be stretch into this week, but the details will be there and wait till you see Jeff stir that Risotto and Mr. Ross bake a Whole Fish in a Salt Crust accented with Star Anise and Citrus...............

Friday, May 7- The Grand Tasting, Caesar’s Palace Pools- The Grand Tasting is billed as one of the main events every year at Vegas Uncork’d. The Grand Tasting features over 50 restaurants and many of the Chef’s whose names grace the doors of their signature restaurants. There are booths featuring wines, spirits, beers and water. There was a separate book signing area where people could have newly released cookbooks signed by the authors and the requisite Las Vegas Red Carpet for Celebrity Chefs and Entertainers to have their photo taken in front of the Vegas Uncork’d background. I tend to stick to the food booths. (Later in the evening, we had the occasion to chat with Olympic Figure Skater Johnny Weir who agreed with us that the Pea Shoot at the Guy Savoy booth was delicious). While the main focus of the Grand Tasting is on booths representing the major dining rooms in the Strip resort hotels, it was quite welcome to see local restaurants represented including Rosemary’s, Vintner Grill and Lotus of Siam. The setting for the Grand Tasting is at the pool gardens at Caesar’s Palace. Thankfully, this year Caesar’s completed the construction we suffered through last year, expanding the area for the Grand Tasting by about half the size. The Grand Tasting is not for people who prefer to avoid the throngs of rushing hungry crowds thirsty for alcohol and premium bits of food. I heard that 2,500 tickets were sold and that’s in addition to all of the Chefs, Cooks, Waiters and associated people working the booths. That’s plenty of people packing into the Caesar’s pool areas. Chefs working to put food out and keep up with demand- Chef Cat Cora serving her Lamb Slider Burgers. They were delicious by the way. Whether she was behind the booth grilling the burgers or merely out front serving them I wasn’t able to verify- Chefs at Laurent Tourendel's BLT Burger Bar Booth frying up the Bacon for the Barbecued Mini-Burgers. Delicious- Somewhere in the background, high atop one of the cement pedestals, is the featured “DJ” of the evening, one Chef Hubert Keller, aka “Top Chef Masters,” Fleur de Lys, Burger Bar, PBS Television et. al. Who knew the French actually yearn to spin records after they leave the kitchen? While I make light of the Grand Tasting, it is the best venue for the general public to sample delicious bites of signature dishes from the finest restaurants in Las Vegas. It’s an opportunity to see Bobby Flay and have him serve you a small bite from the Mesa Grill booth and to have Rick Moonen sign a cookbook. Great fun, a bit of celebrity watching, (we caught Rita Rudner eating one of Valentino’s gelato cones), good Patron cocktails and the atmosphere of a Las Vegas pool party.

Friday, May 7- “Chef’s Table with Alain Ducasse,” miX at THEhotel at Mandalay Bay- Last year at Uncork’d I attended the “French Connection Culinary Conversation” panel about the impact of French Chefs and the cuisine and and restaurants they’ve brought to Las Vegas. You can find the report here. Little did I know at the time that a lunch after that panel would create the idea for hosting an event this year where the public could have the opportunity to have lunch with Chef Alain Ducasse. Barbara Fairchild, Editor of Bon Appetit, explained that after the panel discussion last year Ducasse hosted a private lunch at his restaurant for members of the panel. During lunch, Chef Ducasse suggested placing a lunch open to the public on the list of events for 2010. Thus, a new event was put on this year’s schedule. When it first came up, the website said to “keep checking back for ticket details.” I kept checking and checking, knowing that when the ticket sales opened they would sell-out fast. I imagined they would sell about 35-50 seats and hold the event in the main dining room at miX, so I figured I had a good chance to grab one of the seats. Little did I know that I would be one of only 16 guests to secure a seat at the table with Ducasse. A few weeks before Uncork’d, I was listening to “Food Talk” on KNPR, the local NPR radio station in Las Vegas. Hosts John Curtas and Max Jacobsen were interviewing Barbara Fairchild and they were talking about the most exclusive event at Uncork’d-lunch with Alain Ducasse at the private table at miX overlooking the Strip-a table for just 16 lucky people. miX is located on the 64th floor of THEhotel which is part of the Mandalay Bay complex. Apart from the restaurants, a large draw to miX is the bar and lounge which offers spectacular views of the Strip and the lights of Las Vegas at night. The private dining table where we were seated is surrounded by glass, fronting the Strip to the North and open to the kitchens in the rear. Ducasse and kitchen crew- As we go through the photos of lunch, you will start to see the stylistic differences between Chefs Savoy and Ducasse, an interesting comparison to consider. On Sunday, I'll be having brunch at L'Atelier with Robuchon and then we'll compare three of the great French Masters. I heard Ducasse would be in the kitchen and then would be serving us each dish, but as we sat down at the table, I realized the title of the event was actually ringing true, “Chef’s Table with Alain Ducasse.” Chef would be sitting down with us, drinking wine, talking about food, the dishes for lunch and his work in bringing his cuisine to Las Vegas. The lunch was hosted by Barbara Fairchild, Editor of Bon Appetit. Sitting across the table from Chef Ducasse was his interpreter, Sonja. Wine Service- Ducasse private label champagne- This was the Ducasse few see, for most think of the Michelin stars, the Haute French Cuisine and service of Louis XV in Monte Carlo or the Plaza Athenee in Paris. Chef Ducasse said that the dishes for lunch would reflect his childhood growing up on a farm in Castel-Sarrazin in the Landes region in Aquitaine in Southwest France and the essence of Spring. The dishes were full of flavorful vegetables and the presentations were clean and unpretentious. The Amuse-Bouche- Tender Fish, Wrapped with Radish, Mango First Course- Soupe Au Pistou, Lobster Essence Served with Guigal 2006, Condrieu Second Course- Ravioles Au Vert, Arugula, Spinach, Ricotta And Olive Oil Served with Domaine Weinbach 2003, Riesling, Grand Cru Schlossberg Third Course- CookPot, Spring Vegetables and Morels, (Oregon) Served with Aile d'Argent 2003, Bordeaux by Mouton Rothschild The Morels in the CookPot came from Oregon. Chef Ducasse said that he always puts at least seven fresh vegetables in this dish. For the Las Vegas restaurant most of the produce comes from the Santa Monica farmer's market in Los Angeles. In this dish, the vegetables simply braise at low heat in vegetable stock. Fourth Course- Crusted Braised Halibut, Eggplant Caviar, Olives, Brown Butter Served with Jean-Louis Chave 2001, Hermitage Fifth Course- Rack of Colorado Lamb, Tomato, Zucchini, Onion and Baby Red Pepper "Petits Farcis" And the vegetable "Petits Farcis" open. The onion was stuffed with diced onion and baby lamb sausage- Desserts- Served with Jo Pithon Coteaux du Layon 2001, Saint Lambert Poached Rhubarb- Profiteroles- And dipped in warm chocolat- Pizzas- Raspberry, Rose and Marshmallow- Apple and Caramel- And of course, when lunching with Ducasse, one can't leave without some warm Madelines, served warm just out of the oven and still in their pan- With warm Nutella- Lunch was truly a “Chef’s table with Alain Ducasse.” We talked about Oregon morels in the “Cookpot dish,” (and Chef noted the good Pinot Noir’s coming from Oregon). We talked about braising the halibut, then taking it out of the oven and patting it with a delicate mixture of fine brioche crumbs and orange and lemon peel and running the fish under the salamander until the crust was just crisp and golden brown. We talked about the sweetness of rhubarb in Spring and the “very good wine pairing” of the Jo Pithon Coteaux De Layon 2001. The wine’s were superb and accented every dish perfectly, the glasses were never empty and the laughter and conversation was delightful. Lunch with Ducasse was quite special indeed.

Thursday, May 6- “Master Series Dinners” Guy Savoy, Caesar’s Palace- The official Uncork’d events began on Thursday night with the Master Series Dinners at Caesar’s Palace. The dinners are held at Bradley Ogden hosted by Chef Ogden, Mesa Grill hosted by Bobby Flay, Guy Savoy hosted by Chef Savoy and Rao’s hosted by the Pellegrino and Straci Families. The setting at Guy Savoy is what I would describe as minimalist in terms of decor and design-earth tones and understated with very little art on the walls. This is the complete opposite of the opulence of Robuchon's dining room at the MGM. You enter through large wood doors into a small, rectangular-shaped dining room that seats about 65. There is a smaller dining room at one end that seats another 15 or so. I’ve often thought the design was intentionally kept muted so that the diner would be focused on the food. The food is, of course, the focus at Savoy and for the most part you are not disappointed. Amuse-Bouche- We started with two little Amuse to accompany our flutes of champagne- Parmesan Waffle and Foie Gras Burger with Country Pate The next Amuse was a carrot soup. Now don’t let that simple description fool you. The dish arrived with diced vegetables on one side of the dish and on the cap of the right side of the dish was a small sprinkling of star anise powder. The waiter poured in a chilled carrot soup that was accented by the scent of star anise. I wasn’t able to find out what variety of carrot the Chef used, but the soup was yellow, sweet and the hint of star anise gave it a slight licorice flavor and exotic scent. Once you were finished with the soup you then removed the cap to reveal a small spoon of tuna on top of radish and a garnish of asparagus. First Course- Tout Petits Pois Peas All Around Served with Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy, Les Coutes, Sancerre, 2007 This is one of Chef Savoy’s signature dishes. The base is a pea gelee then you have pea jus, fresh Spring peas, pea shoots and a poached egg. The waiter cuts though the soft yolk once the dish is placed at the table. The bread for this course was a toasted country bread with chive oil. The taste is the essence of a garden of peas. Everyone at the table used the toast to soak up the pea and soft egg. Delicious. Second Course- Saint Pierre Roti, Asperges Vertes et Sabayons aux Agrumes et Poivre Noire Roasted John Dory, Asparagus, Citrus and Black Pepper Sabayons Served with Hestan Chardonnay, California 2006 The John Dory was brought whole to the table on a gleaming silver platter and then taken back to the kitchen and properly skinned, boned and filleted. The two sauces, delicate and with hints of citrus and pepper, were drawn on the plate by the waiter. Third Course- Soupe d’Artichaut a la Truffe Noire, Brioche Feuilletee aux Champignons et Truffes Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup, Toasted Mushroom Brioche and Black Truffle Butter Served with Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley, Les Reversees, Beaune, 2005 This is undoubtedly Savoy’s signature dish. The soup alone is not what makes the pairing work in this dish-it is the buttery, delicate yet crisp brioche, layered with bits of truffle that take the soup to a level beyond. One must dip the brioche into the soup and then taste the two, the bread and the artichoke, to realize the full tasting experience. Fourth Course- Pintade Pochee, Riz Basmati et Jus Albufera Poached Guinea Hen, Basmati Rice and Albufera Jus Served with Chateau Beauregard, Pomerol, 1999 The waiter presented the whole Guinea Hen in the stewpot to the table. The Hen was simply poached in a court bouillon. The bird was then taken back to the kitchen to be carved, plated and sauced in the kitchen and then served at the table. The Albufera jus was a lighter version of the traditional sauce based on a veloute. In this rendition Savoy had added some of the poaching stock and created a light jus type of foam to dress the Guinea Hen. Fifth Course, First Dessert- La Fraise Strawberry Served with Clarendelle, Amberwine, Monbazillac, 2003 The strawberries were served a number of ways-one small wild strawberry, poached strawberries, strawberry sorbet and strawberry gelee garnished with tiny little basil flowers and a small dollop of basil foam to the side. The herbal scent of the basil added to the sense one was eating fresh, sweet strawberries in the field. Sixth Course, Second Dessert- Chocolat Chocolate Served with Domaine Pietri-Geraud, Cuvee Mediterranee. Banyls, 1998 The chocolate was served as a mousse, cake and sorbet. The little cup on the top of the dish holds a bitter orange granite. With Chef Savoy in the kitchen, one expects an exceptional dining experience, both in terms of the food and the overall service. While there were many specific dishes that were exceptional and the service was quite good, there were also some lapses that you wouldn’t expect at a restaurant at this level-overly salty asparagus spears that accompanied the John Dory fish course, (two people at our table pushed the asparagus to the side it was so salty) and the grains of rice that accompanied the Guinea Hen at our table weren’t fully cooked. Instead of the famous bread cart service, this year we were promised a separate bread with each course-they missed two of the bread courses. The sumptuous dessert cart we dream about at Savoy and have had the pleasure of selecting from at the private dinner in years past was missing tonight, and while the two dessert courses were fabulous, no petit fours or coffee or teas were offered at the end of service. Service lapses at lesser rooms would go unnoticed, but details at this level are usually quite obvious, especially given the audience at a private dinner. I suppose these are minor points to some, but are points of importance none the less. In the end, it was an exceptional experience as it always is when dining at Guy Savoy, especially with the Chef is in the restaurant.

Later today I'll be posting an interesting comparison between the French cooking styles of two Masters, Savoy and Ducasse. I attended a private dinner at Guy Savoy's restaurant on Thursday night as one of the Uncork'd events and then had lunch with Ducasse at his miX restaurant at THEhotel yesterday, another Uncork'd event. As I mentioned earlier, all four French Masters are in Las Vegas this week-Robuchon, Gagnaire, Ducasse and Savoy-and like some of the French Masters of the fine arts, these Michelin Star chefs couldn't be more different in style. As you'll see in my report, Savoy is somewhat restrained with his craft, very traditional and understated. The cuisine of Ducasse that we tasted is not what you might be anticipating-we did not go to Paris or the dining rooms in Monte Carlo-he treated us to the cuisine of his childhood in Southwestern France. The styles of Savoy and Ducasse couldn't be more different. Stay tuned............

Thursday, May 6- “Vegas Uncork’d” Kick-off Event, miX at THEhotel, Mandalay Bay- On Thursday afternoon I got invited to the official kick-off event for Vegas Uncork’d at Alain Ducasse’s miX restaurant at THEhotel at Mandalay Bay. The hotel is at the South end of the strip. The restaurant and lounge sit on the 64th floor and look North over the entire Strip and the Las Vegas Valley. (I’m told the view is breathtaking at night, but the event started at 4pm so I wasn’t able to catch the view of the city lights). When you enter into the dining room you look up and see curtains of huge glass champagne bubbles cascading down from the sky. Nearly all of the Uncork’d Chefs were in attendance and the unofficial start of Vegas Uncork’d began with Mayor Oscar Goodman giving one of his convivial martini toasts, (yes, it’s real gin and yes, he drinks it). The official, ceremonial start of Vegas Uncork’d began with a traditional sabre opening of a champagne bottle by Chef Ducasse. Pictured here, from left to right in the front row- 2nd from left, Joel Robuchon, Cat Cora, Mayor Goodman, Barbara Fairchild-Editor of Bon Appetit, Alain Ducasse, Kerry Simon, Pierre Gagnaire, Jean Joho, Alex Stratta. Somewhere in the back was Guy Savoy. Yes, this week in Las Vegas the four French Masters are all in town, Savoy, Gagnaire, Ducasse and Robuchon. For a complete list of all the Uncork’d events go here.

Thursday, May 6- Silk Road, Vdara Hotel- Chef Martin Heirerling is well-known for his cuisine at Sensi restaurant at Bellagio. He took on the additional responsibilities of the kitchen at Silk Road, the restaurant at the Vdara Hotel at MGM’s new City Center Complex. Originally planned as a non-gaming hotel and condo tower, Vdara is currently an all-suite hotel. Silk Road was originally opened for three meals a day but is currently closed for dinner, offering only breakfast and lunch. (The closing of the restaurant at dinner and the delay of condo sales at Vdara are just two indications of the continued economic woes in Las Vegas). When I first dined at Sensi I marveled at Chef Heirerling’s housemade Ginger Ale-a simple refreshment yet one that the Chef has made into a refreshingly spicy, sparkling, cool drink that is as good without spirits as it is with a jigger of rum. According to two of my friends who live in Las Vegas, Silk Road has over-taken Bouchon at The Venetian as the best breakfast spot in town. I suppose the point is debatable. The setting at Bouchon is remarkable-a quiet, almost private bistro open to a small park-like garden, the perfect spot for a French inspired breakfast menu. The décor of Silk Road is in stark contrast to Bouchon-bright reds, pinks, yellows and modern, sleek furniture and chrome. You will not sip your French press coffee while the birds chirp in the gardens at Silk Road. The food, on the other hand, is a matter of taste so to speak. I would have to give the nod to Chef Heirerling over that of Chef Thomas Keller. I’ve found the menu and techniques at Bouchon wanting in recent years when I’ve gone there for breakfast. It seems the master hasn’t kept the line cooks in order when it comes to coddling the eggs. At Silk Road, Chef Heirerling has brought his sense of creativity, presentation technique to the staff at the Vdara restaurant. I decided to take my two friends to breakfast at Silk Road and see if in fact this was the best breakfast in Las Vegas. Two of us ordered the “Eggs, Eggs, Eggs,” dish, (Chef Heirerling’s best-seller), and one ordered the “Blueberry and Ricotta Pancakes,” served with Honeycomb Butter, Candied Rose Petal and Orange Blossom Syrup. The “Eggs, Eggs, Eggs,” are served three ways, from left to right we have a traditional poached egg benedict garnished with tomato. Instead of the egg on top of Canadian bacon it was sitting on corned beef hash. In the center was a fried quail egg on top of Nueske applewood smoked bacon, sitting atop little potato croquettes. Then the third egg style was scrambled and placed back in the egg shell and topped with a light truffle foam. The egg shell is placed atop blanched spinach. I would encourage you to try this dish and push away from the breakfast buffet next time you are in Las Vegas.

For an interesting perspective on how the Vegas Uncork’d events have unfolded since 2008, check out our previous reports here and here.

We felt the same way-so good you just almost wanted to melt into your seat when you brushed the custard on the brioche-silky beyond belief. Chef told us that he actually created the dish many years ago when we was working at Trio in Chicago. Unfortunately, due to the recent dust-ups over the issue of Foie Gras in Chicago, he doesn't put this wondrous dish on his menus in the windy city.

You know, that's a very good question and I'm not really sure of the answer-who or where did the idea of putting fruit, or pineapple, on the "bottom" of the cake come from? Initially when I was writing the piece on Pineapple Upside-Down Cake I did a bit of research into the history of fruits in cakes and found traces back to the Romans. I found that the Romans mixed seeds, nuts and dried fruits into a mash of grains, what we would term the earliest origins of the ‘fruitcake.’ By the middle ages, cakes were made with preserved fruits and sweetened with honey, but historical records show that the use of milk and butter was restricted under church regulations until the ban was lifted in 1490. The tarte tatin wasn’t introduced to the French until 1898, so sometime after that the technique was adopted in home kitchens and brought to America. Of course, the tarte tatin is a whole different type of upside-down dessert, owing to the juices found in fresh apples and the way the apples react to the caramelization process when they are sautéed in butter and sugar. A canned pineapple is a different product because it is packed in a sugar syrup. Now let me give you another note of interest in terms of how some people perceive the history of the Pineapple Upside-Down Cake. Tonight I was at a dinner at a temple of haute French cuisine in Las Vegas. During the dessert course, (not a course where Pineapple Upside Down Cake was served), I did an informal poll of my dining companions about the origins, (within 10 years), of the Pineapple Upside Down Cake. The answers ranged from 1937 to 1965. Mr. Dole’s contest was in 1925, so I guess the person who guessed 1937 was sort of close to the 10-year range. Most of the answers were in the 1940-1960 range, suggesting most people think the Pineapple Upside Down Cake is really much younger than it actually is. Imagine, talking about Pineapple Upside Down Cake while a French waiter is serving you “Strawberry La Fraise with Strawberry Gelee and Basil Foam.”

Wednesday, May 5- Sage, Aria Hotel- Chef Shawn McClain, has brought his Midwestern philosophy of using fresh, seasonal, American products with a touch of creativity to a Las Vegas restaurant scene that is over-crowded with Kobe, Wagyu, pasta and confusing ‘fusion cuisine.’ Chicago and Chef McClain have reminded us how pleasurable simple, yet refined and creative American cuisine can be. At first we considered ordering off the regular menu, but our waiter told us that a tasting menu was available. (The tasting menu was not printed or offered to guests as they were seated). We decided on the tasting menu and asked the waiter if he could arrange for appropriate wine pairings. The sommelier was more than happy to oblige and what followed were six courses (plus and amuse-bouche and a sorbet). Mind you, we are still at the “pre-Uncork’d” stage of our adventures in Las Vegas—the formal events don’t start until this evening with the private dinners at Caesar’s Palace. The menu- Amuse-Bouche- Vancouver Island Kusshi Oyster Piquillo Pepper, Tabasco Sorbet, Tequila Mignonette Served with Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose Breads- Sourdough Baguette Bacon Roll Butter and Australian Sea Salt First Course- Tuna, Anchovy, Quail Egg Fava Beans, Artichoke and Black Olive Sauce Second Course- Foie Gras Custard ‘Brulee’ Black Mission Figs, Cocoa Nibs, Shaved Foie Gras Salted Brioche Served with Sauternes, (France) Third Course- Gnocchi with Lobster, White Asparagus and Tangerine Mint, Peas, Fava Beans and Green Garbanzos Served with ‘High on the Hog,’ (Paso Robles), White Blend Interesting note that some green garbanzo beans today come not far from where I live in Spokane, WA. One of the great lentil growing regions in America is on what we call the vast fields of the ‘Palouse’ in Eastern, Washington centered around the towns of Pullman, WA and Moscow, ID. As the markets for dried lentils have changed recently, farmers have found a new market for fresh, green garbanzo beans. Imagine my surprise to find them in this little copper skillet that arrived on my dinner table in Las Vegas. Fourth Course- Scallops with Oxtail Risotto, Wild Mushrooms, Hawaiian Blue Prawn Served with a North Valley, (Oregon), 2007 Pinot Noir Fifth Course- NY Strip, Fried Artichoke, Potato LaRatte Potato, Red Wine Reduction Served with Scouts Honor Red, Napa Valley Pineapple Sorbet, Candied Orange Peel- Sixth Course- Canele de Bordeaux, White Chocolate Sorbet, Rum Sabayon, Dried Black Grapes Served with Rheinhessen Ice Wine

Tuesday, May 4- MOzen Bistro, Mandarin Oriental Hotel-Dinner The Mandarian Oriental is a non-gaming hotel and has a sense of peace and calm that is unusual for a property that faces the center of the Strip. That sense of calmness enters into the restaurants on the 23rd floor, MOzen Bistro and Twist by Chef Pierre Gagnaire. Many of the restaurants in the large hotels face the open throngs of casinos, bringing noise into the dining room while you’re trying to have a nice experience. After the book signing event, a small group of 15 went to dinner at MOzen Bistro for dinner. The cuisine at MOzen is described as Asian, with dishes ranging as vast as the term implies-sushi from Japan, Thai salads, Masala, Chai, Tandoori, Curry and Naan breads from India, (and venturing into Europe with rich chocolate dishes to finish). The Chefs had created a special tasting menu for us that started with towers of Amuse-bouche being placed on the table- -Spicy Crab Salad on Rice Crisps -Smoked Duck on Vegetables -Watermelon ‘Sushi’ wrapped with Cucumber -Spicy Chicken Curry on Crackers The rice crisps take up to three days to prepare starting with cooking the rice and letting it cool overnight. On the second day the rice is pressed to squeeze out additional moisture and rolled out thin and chilled overnight again. On day three the rice ‘sheets’ are then cut and fried to make the crisps for the crab salad. That’s a lot of work for one amuse-bouche. My favorite was the simplest and the cleanest-tiny sticks of cool watermelon folded with cilantro and pea shoot and wrapped with a thin layer of crisp cucumber. The menu- Tasting of Toro- Nigiri, Tataki, Poki Served with Louis Roderer, Brut Premier Champagne Seared Wagyu Strip Loin- Thai Beef Salad Served with Langwerth Von Simmern, Kabinett Riesling (sorry, my only photo due to poor lighting in the room) Intermezzo- Masala Chai Granita The presentation was intriguing-the ‘granita’ was presented in a glass cup on top of chai spices-cardamom, cinnamon stick, star anise, peppercorn and bay leaf. In the glass cup was a base of chai tea chunks (thus the chai concept made into ‘granita’). The ‘chai granita’ was topped with whipped cream-a sort of frozen chai granita latte I think. Unfortunately the ‘chai’ didn’t freeze before it was made into the ‘granita’ so it was sort of a chai ‘granola’ with whipped cream. I wondered what happened to those wondrous spices after the dishes returned to the kitchen. It would have been nice if the spices were heated just a bit before service to create a wiff of smoke to give one the exotic scent of the spices over the chilled 'granita.' Indian Discovery- Murgh Mukhani and Marinated Prawns Roasted in the tandoori, served with traditional accompaniments Served with Laetitia Pinot Noir The best dish, or should I say set of dishes, on the menu. I tend to like the garnishes and find pleasure in the details—like the house-made garlic naan and the fresh, sweet, mango chutney made with green mangoes and served in a little ceramic side dish. Delice Chocolate- Passion Fruit Cremeux, Gianduja Crisp, Ivorie Gelato Served with Sandeman’s 10-year Tawny Port