Chris Amirault

What did you think of the results?

Haven't opened it yet, but here's a photo: I've got that it's made from wines and I should drink it cold. If anyone knows how to tell how old it is, I'd be much obliged. Ideas about cocktails are also welcome.

As has been mentioned around these parts, the CIA just published a third edition of Garde Manger: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen. I've finally ordered a copy for myself, and I'm eager to start digging into the book, having consumed Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman. I'm wondering where to start in the book. Personally I'd like to hear about people's experiences with charcuterie, but I hope the topic itself can focus on all components of the book. So: where to begin?

Tomorrow, April 10, we're going to migrate to a new server with Invision, which has to be done during the work day. We expect to be offline starting at 8am EST and lasting most of the day. All eGullet online services -- eG Forums, eGCI, Daily Gullet, Recipe Gullet, Image Gullet, and the PM system -- will be unavailable during that time.

Used the Waring DF200 mentioned above tonight for fried chicken. I set it at the max (375F) and kept it there; it got to 365F on my thermometer and so I figured we were ready to go. I fried four batches of breast meat chicken, about 3/4 lb each batch, in the max amount of oil. The recovery time was outstanding, probably 50% faster than a cast iron dutch oven on the stove. Of course, it was also great for marital relations to have it outside. For what I paid, I couldn't be happier.

Using the homemade stuff, I've made this tasty egg-white-free Pink Lady variation a few times: 1 1/2 oz gin (Plymouth) 1/2 applejack (Laird's bonded) 1/2 lemon scant 1/2 orgeat dash grenadine There's an obvious taste difference subbing egg whites for orgeat, of course, but the body of the drink is notably smooth, if not quite meringue-y.

No one? Yikes.

thank a lot. should i use parchment paper again for the 2nd stage as well? ← Here's the relevant section from the recipe: The idea is to hang and dry it, so you don't want any parchment, just the string. Here's that photo I mentioned -- still working on that technique:

That's a good point. We just had a new place open up four blocks from us, and I have already had three chats with the owner there. It ain't DeKalb by a long shot, but he's clearly got some quality stuff in there mixed with not-so-good stuff. Along with sending people into the back for better stuff, it's good to learn how to ask, "When did/will X this come in?" You could also encourage them to initiate conversations about good local suppliers of things, judging their relative quality, and so on. Around here, for example, one wants to get Michael's and not Gaspar's chorice, and not everyone has the former on hand. That's probably true for central aisle items as well at most stores. Part of what a more advanced shopper does is perceive all of the options, instead of avoiding the unknown. One thing I've encouraged friends to do is to buy one ingredient every week or so that's unfamiliar to see what they can learn. What with the internet, an intermediate cook doesn't need a big cookbook collection to delve into the world of durian, quail, or burdock root; you can jump on eG Forums or other places and discover a few things to do with your find. Even if it's a disaster, you'll learn something interesting -- particularly if you've got two great teachers to help you learn. You could give people homework to practice these forays. Report on three conversations you had with a grocer, butcher, or fish monger. Bring in an X and tell us what you learned. That sort of thing.

Leave the skin on. When you hang it you want to tie it the way you'd tie a roast: in concentric circles along the length of the breast. I've just tied and hung two bellies for pancetta and will snap a shot when I get home tonight if you'd like. There may be some dripping so put a plate under it. (Hopefully there'll be no droppings -- definitely kill it first! )

Great ideas, great topic, great teachers both. Picking up on the shopping idea and Susan's suggestion: I've been thinking about shopping issues quite a bit since this eGullet Society shop & eat fundraiser that I coordinated in Providence, on which it was clear that some people dive in, poke and smell, read labels, ask questions, and so on, whereas others were reluctant to do so. I also think that a lot of people are intimidated by "fancy" ingredients at large, quality stores. Finally, I think that few people walk into stores (of any kind) with a plan. It may not be possible, and it may not fit into the current plan you've got, and it probably is more about a transition from intermediate to advanced. But I think two three-hour classes on "Tackling DeKalb Farmers Market" would be a great workshop. The first could start by talking about building a basic plan and shopping list for a meal. Then you could go to the different areas and talk about quality of meat, fish, and produce, making adjustments as you find things. The two of you could talk about substitutions, improvisation, and taking advantage of seasons and availability on foot. Then you could do a debrief: what's the plan when you get back home? The second class could ask people to bring their plans, lists, menus, and results, and you could debrief on how things went back at their homes. You could also prepare whatever the two of you grabbed, walking people through the sorts of adjustments you have to make when you're improvising.

After spending three weekends "devoted to hog," as my wife said, I'm taking a brief pause for this weekend, but I have a Niman butt with a fine fat cap waiting to be smoked two weeks from yesterday.

That thing screams out for bitters, don't it?

Dude. I am so larded. Click for more info.

Well, you've got the green fairy and honey, so: The Green Bee?

I couldn't disagree more. I'll have to flip through my Richard at home, where I'm sure he says "Use good, fresh ingredients for success" or something like it. But if he doesn't, it seems unfair to judge his recipe based on the elements of obviously poor quality ingredients. I think that's just the attitude, sadie4232! There's nothing wrong with substituting and seeing what you can get away with; as a home cook myself, I certainly have my share of disasters doing so. But the fault lies with me, dear Sadie, and not poor Richard.

Those wondering what the recent cocktail fuss is all about might want to get a bottle of decent brandy, some Angostura bitters, a lime, and then whip up a batch of orgeat syrup from this Art of Drink recipe. I discussed tweaks here while enjoying a fine Japanese Cocktail #1. It rocks wicked.

In the spirit of trying to figure out why a recipe didn't work, and in support of a cookbook that I have found very solid indeed, I want to reply to the initial post: I sure would have! Using mediocre quality fish that's been frozen (and likely handled poorly) is a recipe for a slimy mess, if by that you mean flesh that doesn't hold its texture and gives off a lot of icky moisture. Richard's recipes are deceptively simple, but they all require high quality ingredients. This is a dish to prepare when you have fresh peas and tomatoes at their peak; without them (and fresh, excellent fish), this dish will suck. But it seems unfair to criticize a recipe that's largely been ignored! If we're going to take recipes to task for sucking, I suggest we only judge those to which we've given our best shot in terms of quality ingredients, technique, and any other relevant (cookware, time, temperature, etc.) factors. Fair?

So, howsabout we define what "properly roasted pork" means? Who goes first?

I couldn't tell you whether it's cloudy nostalgia, truth, or both, but I heartily agree: that was good stuff.

Just got this from Averna: Fingers crossed!

I stopped at a local liquor store today and found a bottle of Pikina, an apertif made, I believe, by the same people who make Amer Picon. The bottle's old, the label is all in French, and I can't find anything on the web. So.... Ideas?

Sam, you've got me chuckling about that "Curb Your Enthusiasm" episode in which a restaurant that Larry and friends open installs a hot-tempered chef in the open kitchen facing the dining room. When the chef first lets loose a barrage of expletives, the investors and diners all freeze; Larry, thinking quickly, starts swearing himself at the top of his lungs. And thus the context shifts, as all the investors and then the diners revel in their foul-mouthed, uninhibited dining experience.

The mosaic for the book is due to open in early May, sayeth the site.

If I may be so nosy: what items were sourcing challenges?