liuzhou

The owner and manager of an Indian take away restaurant in the UK have been found guilty of manslaughter after a young woman died from an allergic reaction to their food. In English law this comes under the definition of gross negligence manslaughter where The full story is here. Sentencing will be on November 7th..

I had one sad, lonely, spicy meatball leftover from last night's dinner, so I sandwiched it between two slice of flatbread, topped with some home made, fresh tomato sauce and put it out of its misery.

China often has its own classification system for plants and animals. For example, they are convinced that mice and rats are the same species, just that the rats are old mice. This is reflected in the names they use. They also consider carrots and radishes to be the same, despite them being botanically unrelated. I'll start with radishes. The general term in Chinese for radishes is 萝卜/蘿蔔 (Mand: luó bó; Cant: lo4 baak6). However what we get almost always is the large white version, Raphanus sativus longipinnatus, commonly called 'daikon' after the Japanese name. In the UK, both 'daikon' and 'mooli' are used, the latter being derived from the Hindi name. In Chinese 白萝卜/白蘿蔔 (Mand: bái luó bó; Cant: baak6 lo4 baak6), meaning 'white radish'. These are used in many ways: Cut into chunks and boiled in soups or hot pots, cut into strips and stir fried, used in noodle dishes, pickled, salted, candied etc, etc. We do, very occasionally, see the small red radishes known in the west. They are known as 小萝卜/小蘿蔔 (Mandarin: xiǎo luó bó; Cant: siu2 lo4 baak6), meaning 'small radishes'. Few people know what do do with them. Then it gets silly. Here we go with 'red radish'. Not the above but these. Daucus carota sativus 红萝卜/紅蘿蔔 (Mand: hóng luó bó; Cant: hung4 lo4 baak6) The 'umble carrot. These are used in the same way as the white variety above. Also a popular side dish is potato and carrot, cut into fine strips, stir fried with garlic and finished with white rice vinegar. Very nice. The shoots of all varieties are also eaten.

Juicing ginger is common. I also have a small grater specifically for grating the young ginger to extract juice. In some recipes, the pulp is then discarded. My grater is stainless steel, but bamboo versions can also be found.

It is, but only dried in traditional Chinese medicine pharmacies. It is a type of galangal ( Boesenbergia rotunda) rather than true ginger, and unlike in Thailand, it is not really considered a culinary item here. 凹唇姜/凹唇薑 (Mand: āo chún jiāng; Cant: nap1 seon4 goeng1), "literally 'concave lipped ginger' in Chinese.

Zingiber officinale It may seem odd to some to include ginger in a list of vegetables. Many people regard it purely as a spice, but it is not only used that way in much of Asian cuisine. And it's a more complicated subject than might appear. It is, of course, the rhizome of a plant, which qualifies it as a vegetable in my book. Every supermarket carries three main kinds. The generic term for ginger in Chinese is 生姜/生薑 (Mand: shēng jiāng; Cant: saang1 goeng1) or just 姜 (Mand: jiāng; Cant: goeng1). First we get what I suppose you might call regular ginger, usually called just 姜/薑 (Mand: jiāng; Cant: goeng1) or, if you must specify, then 黄肉姜/黄肉薑 (Mand: huáng ròu jiāng; Cant: wong4 juk6 goeng1), meaning 'yellow flesh ginger'. This is an all purpose ginger. Then we have 子姜/子薑 (Mand: zi jiāng; Cant: zi2 goeng1), or 'young ginger'. This is thin-skinned, often with purplish colouring, especially at the tips. It has a more herbal flavour than the others and is often used lightly pickled. This is what you are served in Japanese restaurants as a mouth cleanser, but is also used in China the same way. When used in stir fries, it is seldom peeled. Pickled Young Ginger Then 老姜/老薑 (Mand: lǎo jiāng; Cant: lou5 goeng1) or 'old ginger'. This is gnarly, drier and has a spicier taste. Difficult to peel, this is often used in soups, stocks and hot pots where the flavour of less spicy types would be likely to be diluted out of existence. In addition to these , we also find what is called 沙姜/沙薑 (Mand: shā jiāng; Cant: saa1goeng1). Despite its common English name, 'sand ginger', this is not a true ginger, but a type of galangal, Kaempferia galanga. It is also known as 'lesser galangal or 'kencur'. It was usually only ever seen sliced and dried to be used in hot pot stocks, but in recent years turns up fresh. Dried Sand Ginger. The whitish slices are about the size of my finger nails. Fresh Sand Ginger Note: Despite claims on some websites, ground ginger is NOT used in Chinese cuisine. The only places I can buy it is in specialist bakery goods stores, There has been a bit of a minor fashion for western style cake baking just recently., but few families have ovens, still.

Spicy pork meatballs in a fresh tomato sauce with basil. Unusually, I served this with rice as I had some left over from lunch.

Pisum sativum Known as 豌豆苗 (Mand: wān dòu miáo; Cant: wun2 dau6*2 miu4) in Chinese, pea shoots are indeed the leaves of the young plants grown from your common peas. They can be used in salads, but in China they are more commonly used in stir-fries or in soups and hot pots. They taste of, surprise surprise, peas and a light cooking seems to bring out their sweetness. We also get pea sprouts, 豌豆芽 (Mand: wān dòu yá; Cant: wun2 dau6 ngaa4), which are grown and used in the same way as any other bean sprout.

Yes, but that is the gourd. I'm talking about the shoots here.

Lillium brownii Related to the last post are lily bulbs. All lily bulbs are edible, but I do not suggest you head down to your local garden centre for a few. Although they won’t do you any harm, most are somewhat bitter. Three varieties found in China, Lillium lancifolium, L. pumilum, and L. brownii,. lack the bitterness (not that the Chinese mind a bit of bitterness) and are widely used in stir fries and soups. In Guangxi, they are often served with Chinese celery as noted above. Known locally as 百合 Mand: bǎi hé; Cant: baak3 hap), they are cleaned, separated into ‘petals’ and briefly cooked to release their flowery scent, slightly sweet flavour and crunchy texture. I like ’em. They come fresh and dried, but I’ve only ever eaten the fresh variety, which are available in packs of four in many supermarkets. You find them in the chill cabinet where they have plastic wrapped meats and the like.

Xanthorrhoeaceae Hemerocallidoideae Day lilies (some times referred to as one word – daylily) are flowers. They are a lot prettier than their Latin name suggests. The name comes from their habit of flowering only for one day then dying off. There are dozens of varieties in different colours. One variety, a yellow flowered variety, is used in Chinese cuisine. Known as 黄花菜 (Mand: huáng huā cài; Cant: wong4 faa1 coi3) in Chinese (literally “yellow flower vegetable”) or, when dried, 金针/金針 (Mand: jīn zhēn; Cant: gam1 zam10 meaning “Golden Needles”, they are an essential ingredient in the northern pork and scrambled egg dish, 木须肉/木須肉 (Mand: mù xū ròu; Cant: muk4 sou1 juk6) “Moo Shu pork”, but also feature extensively in soups, frequently appearing in hot and sour soups 酸辣汤 Mand: suān là tāng; Cant: syun1 laat6 tong10 or simply just as a simple “Day Lily Soup”. I’ve even made day lily omelettes. Dried Day Lilies They are seldom available fresh, but very easy to find the dried variety. In fact, every supermarket has them.

Pteridum Aquilinim As I am sure many of you know, brake or bracken is a form of edible fern. It is known in Chinese as 蕨菜 (Mand: jué cài; Cant: kyut3 coi3) or 山蕨菜 (Mand: shān jué cài; Cant: saan1 kyut3 coi3). For those who don't know (they are not common in the UK, for example) the purple stems are topped with young unopened fronds. At this stage, the fronds are known as ‘fiddleheads’ because of their supposed resemblance to er, the heads of fiddles! Or to the tuning keys on said instrument. These are particularly valued. The vegetable with its stems is fried with meat – beef, chicken or even shrimp. The fiddleheads can be simply sautéed for about 5 minutes then lightly dressed with lemon juice, and are wonderful with simple steamed fish. They are also sold on supermarket salad counters as below. Some people say the taste is close to that of asparagus. Not sure about that, but they are good. Fiddlehead Salad Brake roots are also used to make a type of black noodles, which resemble squid ink pasta. Fried Brake Root Vermicelli with pork Health Warning Pteridum Aquilinim is considered by some authorities to be a carcinogen and there are suggestions that its popularity in Japan may be a contributory factor in the high rates of stomach cancer found there.

Sechium edule I guess most people are familiar with chayote, the gourd also known among other names, as christophene, vegetable pear, mirliton, choko etc. In Chinese it is 佛手瓜 (Mand: fó shǒu guā; Cant: fat6 sau2 gwaa1 ), literally, Buddha’s hand gourd. Perhaps less well known is that the leaves and young shoots of the chayote vine are also edible and a popular vegetable in southern China. Often described as 龙须菜/龍須菜 (Mand: lóng xū cài; Cant: lung4 seoi1 coi3), literally 'dragon beard vegetable', they also are sometimes more prosaically described as 佛手瓜苗 (Mand: fó shǒu guā miáo; Cant: fat6 sau2 gwaa1 miu4), meaning chayote shoots. Sometimes they come with pretty white flowers which are also edible. Chayote shoots are usually simply stir fried with garlic as a green vegetable dish. Stir fried chayote shoots I'll deal with the chayote gourd separately, when I get round to the many gourds.

Apium graveolens var. secalinum Alef. Chinese celery or leaf celery. Thinner and leafier than what you may call 'regular' celery, Chinese celery is curved into round, hollow stalks. Frequently used and sold along with 蒜苗 (Mand: suàn miáo; Cant: syun3 miu4) above, this is known in Chinese as 芹菜 (Mand: qín cài; Cant: kan4 coi3). It is used extensively in hot pots, but also simply stir fried with the leaves as a side dish. Here in Guangxi, a popular dish is Chinese celery with day lily, chilli and cashew nuts. We also get regular celery which is 西芹 (Mand: xī qín; Cant: sai1 kan4), meaning 'western celery'. It is less popular.

Tonight I made a popular local dish. 啤酒鸭 (pí jiǔ yā). A mix of duck leg and breast meat and the liver. Braised with garlic, ginger, chilli, Sichuan peppercorns, local beer and 豆瓣酱 (dòu bàn jiàng) - spicy fermented broad bean paste, known only in America as "Toban Djan". Finished with scallions. Served with stir fried Shanghai bok choy and rice. This is a powerfully flavoured dish. If your Asian store has 豆瓣酱 (dòu bàn jiàng) from Pixian 郫县 (pí xiàn) in Sichuan, buy it! It is by far the best. Cheaper varieties, including Lee Kum Kee, cut corners and sub soy beans for the broad beans - not the same at all.

Home made flat bread with home made cream cheese, tomato, home made pesto (featuring balcony grown basil). Sea salted.

Another little known and very local vegetable. Telosma cordata Tonkin jasmine goes under many English names such as pakalana vine, Tonkinese creeper, Chinese violet, cowslip creeper, telosoma etc. In Chinese it is 夜香花 (Mand: yè xiāng huā; Cant: je6 hoeng1 faa1) or 夜来香 (Mand: yè lái xiāng; Cant: je6 loi4 hoeng1) It is a flowering plant native to Guangdong and Guangxi of China and also cultivated in Vietnam (on the Bay of Tonkin, hence the name.) It has a delicate lemony scent and is used in both southern Chinese and northern Vietnamese cuisine (where it is known as bông thiên lý.) Tonkin jasmine is usually stir fried, often with eggs, with which it has a particular affinity, or is boiled in soups, often with fish. It is also added to many noodle dishes in Vietnam. Tonkin Jasmine Scrambled Eggs Me likes it.

Here's an odd one. At least it was to me when I first encountered it 22 years ago in Hunan province. Houttuynia cordata This is known in English as lizard's tail, fish mint, fish leaf, rainbow plant, chameleon plant, heart leaf, fish wort, or bishop's weed. In Chinese, it is usually 鱼腥草/魚腥草 (Mand: yú xīng cǎo; Cant: jyu4*2 sing1 cou2) which means “fish smell grass”, which sounds delightful. Other names include 截儿根 (Mand: jié ér gēn; Cant: zit6 ji4 gan1), literally "stem young root", 猪鼻拱/豬鼻拱 (Mand: zhū bí gǒng; Cant: zyu1 bei6 gung2) literally "pig's nose snuffle" and 臭草 (Mand: chòu cǎo; Cant: cau3 cou2), literally "stinking grass". The latter name is confusingly also used for the unrelated herb, rue. The leaves, flowers, stems and roots are all edible. I have eaten the leaves in Vietnam, served with bánh xèo. The leaves do have a faint fishy smell, but 'stinking' is an exaggeration. The leaves are also dried and used to make a 'tea' in Japan and Korea. The flowers are also used in teas. Houttunyia Sprigs Variegated Houttunyia Houtuynia Flower This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. Despite the weird names, these have little if any noticeable odour. They are served, often in a mild chilli sauce, at the beginning of banquets alongside peanuts and sunflower seeds. You know; something to keep you amused while waiting for the important people to turn up. It is sold in the sauce on the prepared salads counter in most supermarkets, as well as being sold au naturel.

I was in the supermarket this morning and noticed that they had two varieties of the regular garlic. The first was labelled 白蒜 (Mand: bái suàn; Cant: baak6 syun3 ), 'white garlic'. The second was 香蒜 (Mand: xiāng suàn; Cant: hoeng1 syun3), where 香 means 'fragrant; sweet-smelling; aromatic; scented; savoury; appetizing; perfume or spice' among others. I had just bought a batch of the single headed variety in the farmer's market, so passed on these. I may do a taste test in the future to see what the difference is, if any.

I eat them cold. As they are meant to be eaten. 😄 Yes, I usually make them with quail eggs, but this time used chicken's eggs because that was what I had on a torrentially rainy day and I wasn't going out to restock.

Beautiful.

Home made scotch egg (chicken's) with 酸梅酱 suān méi jiàng - sour plum sauce.

While on the subject of garlic, I will mention that we do, of course, get regular garlic. In Chinese, 大蒜 (Mand: dà suàn; Cant: daai6 syun3). In fact, a lot of what may be available to you may be Chinese garlic. I find it milder in taste to that we get in Europe. In addition, we get this single headed garlic known as 独蒜 (Mand: dú suàn; Cant: duk6 syun3) from Yunnan province. This is my go to garlic. Easier to peel, chop and crush. One head is the equivalent of two or three cloves. Both varieties are also available as black fermented garlic. 黑蒜 (Mand: hēi suàn; Cant: hak1 syun3). for the regular variety. and 黑独蒜 (Mand: hēi dú suàn; Cant: hak1 duk6 syun3) for the single headed type.

Now, I get confused. These are described locally as 蒜苗 (Mand: suàn miáo; Cant: syun3 miu4), which translates as garlic shoots. To give you an idea of scale, those tiles are 51cm / 20 inches square. Hmm. Most suspicious. Look more like scallion/green onion/spring onion to me. To compound my suspicions, we also get these. 蒜芯 (Mand: suàn xīn; Cant: syun3 sam1) or garlic scapes. Surely if garlic has 'scapes' it can't have 'shoots'. But what do I know? I am a linguist not a botanist. It all 'scapes me.

Allium tuberosum 韭菜 (Mand: jiǔ cài; Cant: gau2 coi3) is known by several names in English including garlic chives, Oriental garlic, Asian chives, Chinese chives, Chinese leek etc. These also come in two other forms. Those above are the leafy stems. Left to grow a little. they develop flower buds. At this stage, they are sold as 韭花 (Mand: jiǔ huā; Cant: gau2 faa1) where 花 means 'flower'. Then we have 韭黄 (Mand: jiǔ huáng; Cant: gau2 wong4), which are the stems of the same plant, but grown under reduced light conditions so that they do not develop the green colour, but are yellow, the meaning of 黄. To my palate and nose, this technique also increases the garlic flavour and scent considerably. This is a good thing in my book. All of these forms are used to finish off stir fries and also frequently added to various forms of dumplings, especially jiaozi. I've seen the green stems pickled like kimchi and been served the yellow ones just as a vegetable side dish. Also, the green stems (first picture) are often grilled over charcoal at road side stalls and sold for next to nothing. You can see them in the image below, taken at a roadside grill place in Nanning, Guangxi. Finally, they are used in pancakes in the same manner as scallion pancakes.