I always get a kick out of reading about other people's experiences in Ecuador and comparing them to mine. I hope you don't mind if I ramble. Cuenca..... We drove (a whole other story) there from Quito about 2 years ago and loved it. Perfect climate, much like Quito. Like a NY spring, but year round. Pretty city. And the Cuencanos speak with such a charming, musical inflection. Friendly and polite. Stayed at the Hotel Orquidea on Borrero, about 2 blocks from the Plaza Abdon Calderon. The four of us had the apartment (including a kitchen and 3 baths) on the top floor, with access to the roof, for about $30 a night. A full breakfast in the little cafe downstairs was less than $2 each. Once, we took refuge in the Cathedral de la Immaculada (the New Cathedral, late 19th century) because the police were using teargas on some student protestors in the plaza. Then we scooted next door to the Restaurant Rumipamba for lunch and to watch the end of the excitement. Never felt threatened. Visited the museums and churches. Wonderful old architecture. I believe the Old Cathedral uses some building stones from Incan temples. In a place by the river, we drank caipirinhas and ate snacks while listening to a guitar serenade, while the sports fans were watching NCAA ball on the TVs in the bar. Naturally, we took a side visit to the town of Chordeleg, for the jewelry. Great prices. The cheese thing..... My wife uses mozzarella. The juice thing..... I buy Goya guanabana nectar in my local supermarkets. I also like the tree-tomato juice, but can't get it here. Supposedly, it's great for lowering cholesterol. Someone told me that they can't get it to grow in the US. So much for me giving up my Zocor. Zhumir..... IIRC, the 86 proof aguardiente is about $1.60 a bottle (.75 liter). Ain't life great. Someday, I'll have to report on the great caipirinha shootout I hosted in Quito. The majority preferred theirs made with Zhumir Limon (60 proof). Maybe it was my heavy-handed pouring. Nobody picked the Brazilian Cachaca 51. I prefer them made with rum (caipirisima?). The Ron San Miguel Plata (80 proof) was about $2.25 a bottle. Now, if I could just find a place that sells real Cuban cigars. I usually drink bottled water in Ecuador. I eat ceviche all the time and it hasn't given me Atahualpa's revenge. Of course, the amount of aji that I add would kill anything.