ludja

Does it have bones, skin? What part of the chicken? ← Boneless, skinless chicken breast. I really am leaning towards making something like your dish since I have asparagus and corn. I may use pasta or beans as the starch. I have some extra yolks and Meyer lemons leftover from an almond lemon cake I made this weekend so I'm also going to make some lemon puddings.

Great thread idea! My freezer is too full to put in the insert for my ice cream maker so I have a double incentive to clear things out! I want fresh peach ice cream! And blueberry and strawberry... I'm going to defrost some chicken today; not sure how I'll use it yet though. edited to add: Megan's dish above could be inspiration for me. I have some corn and asparagus at home as well. I need to also troll the chicken salad thread; many good ideas there.

Tart Citron Mama; a recipe from Andre Soltner. It really is more a cake than a tart composed of a bottom layer of sponge cake made with eggs, ground almonds and lemon zest. After you cook the bottom you add a layer of thinly sliced lemons (peel removed) and then top it off with an almond meringue which is then baked. The lemon slices form a tart jelly in between the cake and meringue layer. I've made it before but this time I used Meyer lemons and doubled the amount of sliced lemons from two to four. (I used one Eureka to provide more tartness.) I've made this a few times from a published recipe in Julia Child's "Cooking with Master Chefs" but I also found a copy of the recipe on line: click Lightly sweetened whipped cream also provides a good foil to the richness and sweetness of the cake. We had some limonocello with it as well. A little blurry due to low lighting and *maybe* the sucession of wine courses. Beautiful cake and photo, Patrick S. Were you happy with the taste? I would think the passionfruit gelee really adds a lot. One of my favorite desserts, at a restaurant, was a passionfruit creme brulee in which the passionfruit layer on top added a wonderful flavor and contrast.

I found some more information here: click Note the information on goose schmaltz being mixed with pork schmaltz to increase the firmness of the spread. I still think I've only had "grammelschmaltz" made without the add-ins of onion, apple, etc. Thanks for bringing this up, Kaffirlime, as I've learned alot. I may try making some of the spread using onion and apple next time I render some lard.

You'll find a recipe here. Mix in some rendered goosefat and you'll get the Prague version. ← This sounds great. Do you mean that you make it with pork fat and then also stir in some goosefat? Can you tell me if this interpretation of the recipe is basically correct? Render pork fat and remove lightly browned cracklings. Add in sliced onions, minced garlic, sliced apples, peppercorns, bay leaf, salt and marjoram and cook over medium heat until onions are lightly browned. Take off heat, remove bay leaf, stir in cracklings and let fully cool. The technique of cooking the fat with flavorings like onion is similar to what I've seen described in North America in making Jewish poultry schmaltz.

I'm not Ludja... but yep. It's made with poultry too. Schmaltz means fat. Any fat, but primarily animal. Nothing was better on a Friday night than being the first one to Baba's house and running to the kitchen to snack on the gribenes before the rest of the cousins got there . But we didn't use the rendered fat for bread - we just cook/ed with it. ← Thanks for the information. While I know that Jewish kitchens use chicken schmaltz and cracklings, I wondered if there was a Jewish tradtion of using the chicken or goose fat/crackling mixture as a spread on bread as Kaffirlime described. (I have only seen pork versions use in Austria this way, but wondered if it had also been used this way by Central European Jews.) Somehow it seems like the goose version may be/have been used that way--as opposed to chicken, as le gourmet alludes to. Does anyone know if "gribenes" is also a generic term for "cracklings" as schmaltz is for fat? I've always associated "gribenes" with chicken/goose cracklings but that may just be due to the propogation of these traditions by Central European Jewish immigrants in the US/Canada. Does gribenes in German/Germany mean any type of crackling? "Grammel" or "krammel" is used in 'Austrian' German. edited to add: From the link I found below, it seems like "gribenes" may be a general term for cracklings in German; whereas in Yiddish it woould signify only those from a chicken or goose.

This is also served in Austria; often at Heurige/Weinstube (wine gardens serving food) or at other casual eating places for a snack to have with your glasses of white wine. In Austria it is called "grammelschmaltz" and is made from rendered pork fat. I think the way to make it is to simply render some good pork fat over low with a little bit of water. Remove the "grammeln" or pork cracklings with a slotted spoon as they become crisp so that they don't burn. Finish rendering the fat and then stir back in some of the cracklngs to the rendered fat. Typically, I don't think any other ingredients are added to the mix. In some place the item might also appear on the menu as "schmaltzbrot" or "schmaltz bread"; which would be slices of rye bread served with the spread.

Thanks much; I need to check around some of my Mexican groceries up here to see if I can also procure some and try something similar to your recipe. edited to add: It was probably due to reading and posting on this thread, but I had a great yearning for red chile a few days ago. I had a bunch of potatoes at home and made a big pot of "papitas con chiltepines" substituing New Mexico red Chimayo chile for the ground chiltepines...I've been eating it with a fried egg on top for breakfast! (Saute diced raw potatoes in a butter/oil mix and then start simmering them in a bit of water. In the blender make a red chile sauce with garlic, ground red chile, water and salt; add the puree to the potatoes and simmer until the potatoes are cooked and the sauce nice and thick.)

There is actually a Cheesecake Factory in downtown Palo Alto, CA (40 miles south of SF). I don't know if I've seen lines out the door there, but I think the restaurant has looked pretty busy inside when I've walked by. I walked in once to look at the cheesecake case but even the cheesecakes did not really tempt me... It may have been an incorrect impression, but they looked a little more overwrought and gooey than the type of cakes I like. Note: I've not had any of their cheesecakes so I can't comment on their taste.

I agree; it would be fun to see some of the menus you come up with. Adjustments may be needed for some pork recipes to account for the generally leaner cuts sold in supermarkets now.

I love both those dishes also. I had never had posole until I visited New Mexico. Making it for an open house is a great idea. If I may ask, do you usually use dried, frozen or canned posole? (I've only cooked from canned, but should bring back some frozen or dried next time to compare the taste and texture.)

Thanks for sharing this; it sounds like an excellent treatment. I know this is similar to the treatment for southern greens but I've never cooked green beans this way. And adding in some fresh shell beans would be wonderful.

Interesting, thank you for the additional comentary on Wechsberg, Anewman102. I'll look for material written by Bemelmans as well. It seems like this topic could be an interesting sub-thread of its own.

I don't mention this to try to sway you, only to relate my experience. I used to feel pretty blah about pinto beans as well until I had some very good ones in New Mexico and then started cooking my own from dry beans in a similar way to that I described above. They are so good this way I make them often and will just have them with, as mentioned, some garnishes or with sauteed greens and maybe some cheese on top. They have a wonderful earthy flavor that is completely different from the product warmed up from a can. (I"m not saying you haven't tried them this way, but for me, it has made a complete difference.) It's true the bacon fat will keep for a very long time in the fridge so you can certainly spread the use out over a very long time. Excellent for frying eggs as well.

I had a very interesting mango gazpacho last summer at the restaurant at La Fonda Hotel in Santa Fe. It was a first course dish and not overly sweet. Some included flavors were cilantro, chile, lime. I would love to recreate this but am not sure if I remember it well enough to put it all together. I think there was also cucumber and maybe red bell pepper in it. The soup was served cold. Has anyone tried something like this?

How do you experienced genoise makers treat the baking pan? I've gotton advice on eGullet to use parchment on the bottom and to *not* butter and flour the sides in order to maintain the height of the cake.

You can make up an excellent pot of pinto beans with bacon fat (or lard). Saute chopped onions in lard until glassy until glassy and pale golden. Add in pinto beans and water to cover the beans by two inches. Throw in some sliced serrano chiles and a mashed garlic clove, if you like. Simmer over low heat until beans are tender but not overcooked. Add water sparingly near the end so that you wind up with a nice final consistency--not too watery. Salt to taste. These will also make nice refried beans if you want to use some of them that way. You can also add a bottle of beer in the last hour or so of cooking for some excellent cowboy/charro type beans. Serve up a bowl with some chopped cilantro over the top and a fried egg, steam a corn tortilla and you have a nice lunch. Cook up a mess of Southern greens or use the fat to make a great cornbread. (The fat is melted in preheat skillet or pan; then pour in the cornbread batter and pop in the oven.) Can't think of a good tie in for the anchovy paste, but a good use for that separately is in stuffed eggs (mixed in the filling or squiggled over the top of the stuffed eggs) or in a Liptauer cheese spread. Or use it in a salsa verde to serve with meat or chicken.

I like the restaurant in La Fonda also, especially for lunch when the light is streaming in. I agree that you shouldn't miss La Choza and Cafe Pasqual. Green chile enchiladas and a bowl of green chile are musts as mentioned. Posole is also very traditional, athough not served at as many places. The posole can be "red" or "green" and will often have pork in it. Carne Adovada or Adobada is cubed pork slowly roasted in red chile sauce. Excellent as a stew or as part of an enchilada. The fried egg option for enchiladas is not always mentioned on the menu but is, as mentioned by others, a great addition. Bizcochitos are an old traditional New Mexican cookie flavored with anise and topped with cinnamon sugar. I like the New Mexican version of natillas and order whenever I get a chance. Unstuffed sopaipillas will usually be served with honey. Try to eat them soon after they come fresh to your table. There are often food vendors on the Plaza. It's a little early, but a tasty snack is roasted corn on the cob served with condiments like red chile and lime. As mentioned on a few other threads, Tomasita's is another pretty good place for New Mexican food and Tia Sophia's has nice hearty New Mexican style breakfasts. A classic breakfast burrito may be filled with bacon, potatoes and egg and smothered in either green or red chile. Green chile cheeseburgers while not "classic" old New Mexican food are definately classic newer New Mexican food. I usually get them in ABQ but there are two places I've heard mentioned several times up in Santa Fe. Maybe someone will have a comment on either of them: Horseman's Haven and Bert's Burger Bowl. It's easier to bring dried ground red chile home if you find yourself enjoying it. The green chile is more difficult to transport as it will be sold roasted and frozen this time of year. (You can get it fresh roasted in the autumn but it needs to refrigerated also.) I had never heard of the quelites before. I found this little blurb online: click If you need a bite to eat in Albuquerque on your way in or out, you could also stop at El Patio near the University for great New Mexican food.

cherry clafoutis and pickled cherries to have with pate or roast pork throughout the year

I'd like to get the pots de creme pots with lids, but for now I make my pots de creme and other puddings, mousses, etc in white, ribbed porcelain cups like these from Sur La Table: click (6.95 per four cups)

Peet's Coffee used to have green tea and I think jasmine tea frozen smoothie drinks with mlk in them. I really liked them but they discontinued them. Smooth, creamy, cold, not too sweet and a great tea flavor. I've tried making the green tea frappe at home but it is difficult to emulate the texture.

Googling and reading around I've found that the sauce was also used around other places. It's common in Amish cooking and was also in general cookbooks from the late 1800's. Perhaps the cider vinegar is a more Southern touch. I guess it really must be buried in old-style Southern cooking though. I thought the topic would provoke more comments from our Southern contingent.

I wonder how it woudl tame down just by mixing and mellowing with the slaw? Good for you for tyring it! The Jean Anderson recipe I've made uses proportionallly less vinegar but I may try Edna Lewis' recipe next time for comparison.

Milk Punch was the classic I also thought of when seeing the title of this thread. Make sure you have some whole nutmeg to freshly grate over the top. Yum. Two other lighter drinks of New Orleans fame that are also nice at brunch are the Ramos Gin Fizz and the Absinthe Suisse. They both incorporate egg whites and orange flower water and are a nice frothy drink. There is a whole thread on the ins and outs of making the Ramos Gin Fizz and here is a recipe for the Absinthe Suiisse: click (Note that the traditional liqueur for absinthe in New Orleans is Herbsaint but you can substitute Pernod or Ricard as well.) I saw a less traditional but nonetheless interesting sounding drink in "Frank Stitt's Southern Table" cookbook. They call it an Alabama Sunset. You muddle some fresh blackberries and sugar together and let them macerate for a bit in a shaker. Add some brandy and strain some into a champagne flute. Slolwy top with champagne.

Interesting point, but I still find myself using all my Chez Panisse Cookbooks for both inspiration, information and also specific recipes. I've had them and read them for a long time and have somewhat internalized their flavors and approaches but I still find them very useful. The ones I turn to the most right now are Chez Panisse Desserts (Lindsay Shere), Chez Panisse Vegetables and Chez Panisse Menu. The style and tastes of the dishes really resonate with me and I always receive terrific comments from any dishes prepared from the books. (My latest success was the twice baked green garlic soufflees at Easter which I look forward to making with corn later in the summer.) Besides enjoying the flavors and aesthetics of the dishes, it's true that livlng in the Bay Area I do also have easy access to many of the more unusual ingredients and am also able to get high quality ingredients. Most of the dishes would certainly not be the same with supermarket fruits and vegetables. When I do bring great produce home, I turn to the books with anticipatory pleasure. I'm also a big fan of Judy Rodger's "Zuni Cafe Cookbook" and am still cooking my way through many of the recipes. Again, the style and taste of the dishes is right up my alley. It is one of my favorite cookbooks and I have not been disappointed with anything I've made from it yet. A few cookbooks that I have barely cooked from yet are my small collection of Indian cookbooks. One contributing factor is that I am currently surrounded by dozens of excellent Indian restaurants, where I can also get all the great Indian breads. Nevertheless, I still have a personal food project on my list to assemble a collection of the necessary spices and just start cooking from them frequently. I do have good access to Indian markets!