Mayhaw Man

Charcoal derived from bone? Huh? ← bone ash is widely used in filtration: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bone_char and casein is a milk protein..... milagai ←

Has anyone thought about the potential ramifications for this? Do your vegetarian friends discuss this issue? ← Most craft beers, and in fact, a large number of major brewery products, do not have any of this in them. Isinglass, for example, is a traditional clarifying agent. In fact, as with isinglass, several of these agents are not really components IN the beer but are used to take things OUT of the beer. Sure, there's contact and I suppose if you were really hard core about it that you should call the brewery that you are dealing with and ask them if they use any of this stuff. Generally though, especially with craft brewed beer, you won't have many issues (though small breweries are pretty likely to use isinglass, as it is a very traditional way of doing things). Charcoal derived from bone? Huh? Caseine? That's glue, you use it to put the labels on, though many people use other types of products Sure, all of these may occasionally appear in small amounts. I would suggest that they drink water anyway-just in case. More beer for the rest of us.

Gourmet have anything planned? Yes, definitely. It'll be good. I LOVE New Orleans, but then what food person doesn't? WEnt there for the first time in 1980 and it was like getting hit over the head. I think my first meal was Uglesich's, followed by Dooky Chase, Acme, K-Paul and Galatoire's. Pascale's. After that I couldn't keep away. And I love the way the restaurants evolved; there came a time when you could actually get something green to eat there, and it seemed like a miracle! I'm sure that New Orleans will come back, stronger than ever. You guys are survivors - and somebody has to teach the rest of the country how to party. Book signings; I actually like them. I groan before I get there, but then I end up having a great time. ← I think it's genetic, rather than something that can be taught. Much like New Yorkers (who are always very happy here, it seems), we are used to a 24 hour lifestyle that has been ripped away from us. It's all very disconcerting. I am organizing a meal tomorrow night that consists of primarily restaurant folks(chefs and writers) from the East Coast and some writing types from here and the term "herding cats" has come to mind more than once. Convincing out-of-towners who have been here a million times and truly love this place that "Yes! We do have to eat at 7:30-they will close on us if we don't" is much harder than it sounds. It's not what people want to hear when they come here, even if they know that the place is a confusing mess. It's a new world, and we're all pretty brave, but what kind of place is it that you can't get a cocktail and a decent meal at 4 in the morning? Sheesh. I have had some good meals lately though. One effect of the storm seems to be that chefs realize that, with a market this small-and the same small pool of diners night after night in a kind of rotation, that they need to bring the "A Game" to every plate. In fact, Bourbon House where you did a thing this spring, has been an incredibly inconsistent place over it's history, but because D. Brennan has the better part of his staff from 3 different restaurants in the kitchen, the food has been pretty outstanding. Another effect of the labor shortage is guys who would normally be commanding from the pass window are back in the trenches in their own restaurants, and things get pretty good pretty fast when the boss is on your side of the line working. I'm glad to hear that you have some things coming out (though I kind of knew it beforehand). I am looking forward to reading it. Come see us. We'll leave the light on for you-if they are working. Otherwise, candlelight is a very romantic way to dine. In either case, it's still New Orleans and there is no shortage of good things to eat and drink. ← Well, I will be there in February for the Viking event. But I expect you knew that too.... ← But of course. It's always been a small world here, but it has gotten dramatically smaller in the last three months. We don't have anything else to do but carp about the situation and eat and drink. Actually, if you can ignore the actual situation, it's been an incredible time for conversation, writing, eating and drinking. There is a pretty amazing level of acceptance here. We've always had it to some degree or another, that's been part of the problem I suppose, but now it's more of a "damn, I'm glad that I'm still here to see what happens next" kind of thing. Much like our city a few months ago, we can all see that, because we have some amazing building blocks left to work with, that the glass is half full-though some of our neighborhoods are, at least temporarily, half empty. Once again, thanks for the time. See you in NOLA

Gourmet have anything planned? Yes, definitely. It'll be good. I LOVE New Orleans, but then what food person doesn't? WEnt there for the first time in 1980 and it was like getting hit over the head. I think my first meal was Uglesich's, followed by Dooky Chase, Acme, K-Paul and Galatoire's. Pascale's. After that I couldn't keep away. And I love the way the restaurants evolved; there came a time when you could actually get something green to eat there, and it seemed like a miracle! I'm sure that New Orleans will come back, stronger than ever. You guys are survivors - and somebody has to teach the rest of the country how to party. Book signings; I actually like them. I groan before I get there, but then I end up having a great time. ← I think it's genetic, rather than something that can be taught. Much like New Yorkers (who are always very happy here, it seems), we are used to a 24 hour lifestyle that has been ripped away from us. It's all very disconcerting. I am organizing a meal tomorrow night that consists of primarily restaurant folks(chefs and writers) from the East Coast and some writing types from here and the term "herding cats" has come to mind more than once. Convincing out-of-towners who have been here a million times and truly love this place that "Yes! We do have to eat at 7:30-they will close on us if we don't" is much harder than it sounds. It's not what people want to hear when they come here, even if they know that the place is a confusing mess. It's a new world, and we're all pretty brave, but what kind of place is it that you can't get a cocktail and a decent meal at 4 in the morning? Sheesh. I have had some good meals lately though. One effect of the storm seems to be that chefs realize that, with a market this small-and the same small pool of diners night after night in a kind of rotation, that they need to bring the "A Game" to every plate. In fact, Bourbon House where you did a thing this spring, has been an incredibly inconsistent place over it's history, but because D. Brennan has the better part of his staff from 3 different restaurants in the kitchen, the food has been pretty outstanding. Another effect of the labor shortage is guys who would normally be commanding from the pass window are back in the trenches in their own restaurants, and things get pretty good pretty fast when the boss is on your side of the line working. I'm glad to hear that you have some things coming out (though I kind of knew it beforehand). I am looking forward to reading it. Come see us. We'll leave the light on for you-if they are working. Otherwise, candlelight is a very romantic way to dine. In either case, it's still New Orleans and there is no shortage of good things to eat and drink.

I suppose I know what's for lunch on Thursday. I have guests in town and I can send one of them back with a big sandwich to stink up the plane. The airlines love that.

I just recieved this note from Poppy Tooker, Beautiful Maiden of the Callas and local Slow Food big cheese: Lester L'Hoste has some of the VERY few Louisiana Satsumas (which were recently boarded onto the US Slow Food Ark of Taste) available AND the ONLY organic ones. Lester DOES mail order - and will ship 11 pounds of satsumas or navel oranges for $30 ANYWHERE in the US (except California - where of course, you can't ship citrus.) The fruit can be ordered by phone @ 504-231-9625 or by mail at L'Hoste Citrus 6397 Hwy. 39 Braithwaite, LA 70040 Unfortunately, he doesn't have internet access again yet.

Thanks so much for joining us this week. I know that over the years that you have spent a fair amount of time here and that Gourmet has covered the place inside and out during its history. Currently, you also have a fair number of New Orleans and NO related folks working for the magazine as writers. Given all of these connections, I would assume that you have some opinions on what the future may or may not hold for New Orleans and I would be very interested in hearing them (in reality, as New Orleanians, we're ok with people talking about us anytime, but especially now. We love us. We're not like those other people). Does Gourmet have anything planned in the near future concerning the state of dining or any features concerning places that have either reopened or, for that matter have not reopened? Do you have any favorite restaurants or chefs here or do you just go to where you are lead after signing a few books? Favorite Dishes? Also, do you actually enjoy book signings or are they just something to endure? Thanks

My dear, Jello is everywhere. There is no escape.

The part of town where the distillery was did not fare well. At all. I have seen it (in fact, I drive home through there several days a week) and I assume that the water was as deep, or deeper, than it is out on Elysian Fields parellel to the distillery. It's mess. I hope that they reappear in some form or fashion, but it's hard to imagine that it would not take a more or less complete retooling of the place (which was, at best, kind of cobbled together anyway). It's a great idea and a great product (and had improved dramatically over the last few years) and it makes perfect sense. I hope that they do come back soon-of course, I hope that alot of people come back soon, both businesses and individuals. The senses of loss is, well, pretty overwhelming all along the Gulf Coast and in particular in the New Orleans area, if only because it STAYED under water for weeks and many, many people can't even think about coming back until they have somewhere to live and until the schools are open for their children to go to.

This is EXACTLY the kind of news that rekindles my belief that man is resiliant and continually on the lookout for ways to improve the human condition.

But you only do this on Sunday morning, I think.

Nah, but they are closed right now. Soon to open, although soon come is probably more accurate. The front door last Saturday.

Roughly 1/3 of the coffee that comes into this country comes through The Port of New Orleans and much more arrives here by rail from Mobile and Houston to be roasted. Coffee is a big big part of the port economy and it has taken a huge blow as most of the processing was near the Industrial Canal and that didn't work out too good for them in the storm. I would love to pull up a bunch of interesting New Orleans coffee articles, but the Times Picayune insists on using this joke of a website (several other papers around the country do too-it's stupid, not user friendly and it sucks-so there) and I can't do any kind of meaningful search. But I did find this well written piece by Daniel Rogov, which contains a truly great quote at the bottom by one of the nicest guys to ever come from New Orleans (really, he is, no joke). It's really funny.

Legend has them as Englishmen--chemists (pharmacists). They made the first batch and it was so bad they put it away and forgot about it. One day they stumbled upon it, tried it again and it was magically transformed into what we know today. ← Legends. You believe yours, I'll believe Justin Wilson.

Leidenheimer's article. There is one point that is not very well made here. Ann Cashion has been buying all of her poboy bread from Leidenheimer's in NO since the day that they opened Cashion's and later Johnny's. Several times a week deliveries by overnight air. It's not cheap and it's not frozen, but it's the best bread for the things and that's all she really cares about. After the storm, about a month ago, a group of us put together a bread line to get the stuff (basically we were going to pick it up a couple of times a week and ship it for her, as that's the reason that Leidenheimer's couldn't get it out). It turns out that they are only making enough, at the moment, for local consumption and they could not supply anyone out of town. Even customers that they have had for years. And, actually, while it's not the same, the report is that the stuff is pretty good. Were I in DC, I would go eat one. No problem. Happily, as a matter of fact.

Lea & Perrin are famous cajuns. I just thought that you would want to know.

Progress Grocery is now up and running for all of your muffeletta needs. They make a great one. I highly reccomend them. Nothing says Thanksgiving like a big old New Orleans Muffeletta! ( I just made this up, of course, but it's nonetheless true) Look, you may not care and it may not be part of your sphere of thinking here, but there are so many places that won't ever be back-ever-that small, family run businesses like this need all of our support if at all possible. Save your money if you are still thinking about making relief donations and just buy something from someone who is truly local. Buy some food, buy some art, whatever. That's what we would all like to see, as the money goes directly to someone who is staying here and trying to be a part of the solution. Thanks

So many cakes, so little bandwidth. Still, if I were to pick one piece of cake, the ultimate piece of cake, it would be Ann Cashion's caramel cake. She keeps saying that she's going to give it up to me, but so far, no luck. I'll keep trying, though I suspect that it's a master baker thing and even if I have the recipe, it won't be the same. And tremor, it's true. Now you know.

Well, first of all, why would you want to get away from Pecan Pie and Caramel Cake? Are you tired of it? Because, if you are, you should really think about some kind of intensive therapy. That's kind of like saying, "Hey! I'm having too much fun! I should stop" or, "Hey, I have too much money! I don't want anymore." But, since you asked, I am a cake guy (some people are pie guys, there are fundamental differences between these two groups that should be studied by some kind of cultural anthropologist) and beyond Caramel cake there's German chocolate cake Layered coconut cake Carrot cake Hummingbird Cake Coca Cola Cake Hershey Bar Cake Angel food with seven minute icing cake (actually-who needs the cake?) Peach Pound Cake Pecan Pound Cake Pound Pound Cake Rum Cake Bourbon Cake Wedding Cake (don't knock it-people should eat more almond white cake-it's good) Chocolate layer cake with chocolate pecan icing I could keep going, but this is just to show you that there is a whole beautiful world full of delicious cake. Don't get stuck in a rut if it makes you unhappy. Just get another recipe.

IV It's remarkably efficient. I just hook up to the shunt in my arm and moments later I am ready to face the day. Actually, One very strong cup at home, usually New Orleans roast (no chicory) and hot milk. Au lait, you know? Then, at work, I drink that stuff (I rep some small roasters and usually have a supply of good coffee around pretty much until I start shaking, then I go eat lunch, and then I come back and do it again. I give it up for the rest of the day around 4. I drink waaaay too much of it, but I really like it. It works for me.

Aside from being exposed to a series of fabulously talented home cooks when I was growing up (from virtually every imaginable socio-ecomomic and ethnic group that existed in the Delta in the 1960's) and working in kitchens for many years, there was, absolutely, a single moment when I decided that this food thing was probably a bit more complex and interesting than I had ever considered previously. In a one week period I had meals at Esther's (closed for years now, on the corner of Camp and Gravier-run by a woman from Natchez and the first really, really fine dining in what has now become the Warehouse Dining District and later went, I believe, to DC) and another at what was then the new Grill Room in the Windsor Court, which was being overseen at that time by Kevin Graham (tremendously talented guy who has now disappeared, by his own choice, into the ignomy of South Florida Country Club Cheffing). Those two meals, despite the fact that I had been eating in fine New Orleans restaurants since I learned which fork to use, defined what was, to me anyway, about to become the "New Southern Cooking" or "Nouvelle Creole" or "whatever". There was some seriously good food being served there is a way that clearly involved a great deal of thought, care, but a happily small amount of pretention (sure, the Grill Room is and was expensive and crazy nice, but really, even beyond the old "British Hunt Theme" it was not pretentious-particularly the service, which was always kind of down to earth). The food, the service, the kind of food, the kind of service-they opened me up to the possibility that Galatoire's was not the best restaurant in the world (though I can easily make that argument with anyone that cares to tee it up-it's a symantic one, but a fun one) and that there might be something more out there that could be done with all of the stuff we eat/ate down here all of the time. Also, as an aside, that night at Esther's I was served a cinnamon apple sorbet at the end of the meal that is still, to this day, the single best dessert that I have ever eaten. It was like nothing that I have ever had before or since and just typing this makes me remember every spoonful. Lord, it was good.

So that they will be happier just before they are plopped in a big pot of boiling water.

I walked by Central Grocery on my way to Envie (excellent coffee shop-in the old school sense-you can get a very well made cocktail or an interesting beer there, as well-and they have free wireless) last night and there is now a sign on the door claiming that they are "opening soon" Right now that can mean just about anything, as soon is relative, much in the sense of the Jamaican phrase "soon come", but the place looked as good as ever (relative statement again) and I don't see much holding them up physically. I'll keep you posted.

← Actually, with a little shopping, aged wood French oak bbls can generally be had for under $1000 and generally around $850. Of course, the price goes down with the volume of bbls purchased. Container loads lower the price quite a bit. These guys give used car salesmen and carnival barkers a bad name.

If you think that Clancy's was packed, you should have been at Dick and Jennie's last night. Wall to wall. Uptown is like that. So few places are open downtown, many people are sticking pretty close to home, and places are generally keeping short serving hours, that the result has been full restaurants. Your 60% number, of course, only takes in a small portion of the city that's operating-big hunks of it don't exist in any meaningful way, right now, and it will be a long time before they do again. I have to tell all of you that your fascination (and many others) with Mother's baffles me. Other than it's convenient location, I have never thought much of it. So many places (or there used to be) to get a sandwich that is far superior (this last week I ate and Parasol and R&O and had fabulous sandwiches at both places. Roast beef at R&O with red and brown gravy and a really, really good meal at Parasol complete with a roast beef po boy and gravy cheese fries which were killer-probably literally as opposed to figuratively over the long run). And the squab that you ate (I am kind of assuming that you were there on Sat night, but I could be wrong) was really fabulous, I agree. I was at August for a good portion of Sat afternoon hanging around for something that I am working on and got to watch John Besh slice and dice the birds and set up a prep for confit. That guy is extremely good with a knife (very beautiful knives, I might add) I love those gnocchi. Yum. I have had a couple of good meals lately at the Bourbon House, including some excellent oysters on Sat afternoon, a good meal at Redfish Grill, and one of the best meals that I have had in months on a front porch in Carrollton (hey, it's a tough reservation to get. You gotta know somebody. ) Snacked at K Pauls on Sat and had a bowl of EXCELLENT gumbo at Tujague's (based on a rec from someone I trust I ran over there for a bowl). It was seafood, and delicious, but homestyle seafood-meaning that it had very thin slices of sausage in it. If you are in town I would reccoment going by for a bowl and a drink at the cool bar as kind of an early app for your evening's dining plans. Thanks for coming. Tell your friends. We'll leave the light on for you. Well, we leave them on if they work and Entergy will hook up our box. Otherwise, you better bring a flashlight.