Southwest Harbor, Maine Dining Suggestions

[Shmily]

We are going to be in Southwest Harbor in September 2006...We are all set for lobster at Thurston's but that is the only neat place we know....PLEASE suggest alternatives any place on Mount Desert Island or even Ellsworth..for good food no matter how simple...

[SusanGiff]

Oh, man, you're in for such a treat! Right in SW Harbor is Beal's Lobster Pound, which we actually enjoyed more than Thurston's when we went last year. It's just basically a dock on the water, but the lobster was really, really good. There was also a place right at the bridge from Ellsworth over to the island that supposedly has good lobster.

We also went to Red Sky, a pretty upscale and quite excellent place on Clark Pt. Rd. in SW. You can't miss it--right off of Main St. However, my number one non-lobster recommendation has to be XYZ in Manset, about a 10 minutes drive away, which may be the best Mexican restaurant I've ever been to (bear in mind I don't live in LA and haven't traveled in Mexico, either, so my comparisons are other not-completely-authentic Mexican places). Very, very good, very pretty, and they're famous for their Margaritas.

I found that with the exception of Bar Harbor, you couldn't go wrong around there food-wise. Almost every time we stopped in for any snack or meal, we were impressed.

Have a great time. It's a beautiful place.

Susan

[Shmily]

Oh, man, you're in for such a treat! Right in SW Harbor is Beal's Lobster Pound, which we actually enjoyed more than Thurston's when we went last year. It's just basically a dock on the water, but the lobster was really, really good. There was also a place right at the bridge from Ellsworth over to the island that supposedly has good lobster.

We also went to Red Sky, a pretty upscale and quite excellent place on Clark Pt. Rd. in SW. You can't miss it--right off of Main St. However, my number one non-lobster recommendation has to be XYZ in Manset, about a 10 minutes drive away, which may be the best Mexican restaurant I've ever been to (bear in mind I don't live in LA and haven't traveled in Mexico, either, so my comparisons are other not-completely-authentic Mexican places). Very, very good, very pretty, and they're famous for their Margaritas.

I found that with the exception of Bar Harbor, you couldn't go wrong around there food-wise. Almost every time we stopped in for any snack or meal, we were impressed.

Have a great time. It's a beautiful place.

Susan

←

thank you for both those suggestions...we go every year but we always seem to eat lobster and I really appreciate other suggestions...will keep them in mind when we go...We used to stay in Bar Harbor but "the quiet side of the Island" suits us much better.

Edited July 2, 2006 by Holly Moore (log)

[Nikki Rose]

About an hour drive from Mount Desert Island (30 minutes from

Ellsworth) is the beautiful Downeast village of Buck's Harbor in South

Brooksville.

This is real off-the-beaten track coastal Maine. At the Buck's Harbor

Market, you will find Rendezvous Restaurant - a word of mouth place

that is one of the best restaurants on the Maine coast. The focus is Maine

meets Mediterranean cuisine with local and organic products, including fresh

seafood. Highly recommended. The telephone is 207-326-8531.

Nikki

[Shmily]

About an hour drive from Mount Desert Island (30 minutes from

Ellsworth) is the beautiful Downeast village of Buck's Harbor in South

Brooksville.

This is real off-the-beaten track coastal Maine. At the Buck's Harbor

Market, you will find Rendezvous Restaurant - a word of mouth place

that is one of the best restaurants on the Maine coast. The focus is Maine

meets Mediterranean cuisine with local and organic products, including fresh

seafood. Highly recommended. The telephone is 207-326-8531.

Nikki

←

Sounds wonderful...have you eaten there...or has anyone reading this? Would love to hear more...Thank you.

[rlibkind]

Here's some info gleaned from some of my previous posts.

LOBSTER POUNDS

I’ve yet to visit a lobster pound restaurant in Mount Desert or anywhere in Hancock or Washington counties that didn’t do a great job cooking crustaceans. Just steam them so many minutes per pound and you’ve got a perfect seaside meal. Same goes for the clams (soft belly clams, the true clam, not the quahog pretender).

So, as for the debate of who does a better job, Beal’s in Southwest Harbor or Thurston’s in Bernard (on Bass Harbor), the quality of the food is not an issue. Both use fresh-hauled, minimally impounded lobsters. Both know how to cook them. Both charge about the same price.

What does make the difference is ambiance, and here Thurston’s is the clear winner. Beal’s seems hemmed in and does not offer a wide view of its harbor. Thurston’s dining area is at the end of the wharf with an expansive view of the harbor. Another edge for Thurston’s is that you can order the steamed seafood and all other offerings (dessert, burgers and hot dogs, etc.) at the same window. At Beal’s you have to walk halfway up the wharf.

Last time I was on MDI I was going to try Head of the Harbor in Southwest, but when I saw the prices for clams (I eat more pounds of clams during a week on MDI than lobster by a 4:1 ratio) my penurious personality got the best of me and I drove to Beal’s instead. Nice view, though.

Keep in mind that the prices are less expensive at the pounds in Trenton just before you cross the bridge onto MDI. I've found that Lunt's in particular is quite reliable.

SEAFOOD KETCH, Bass Harbor

This staple seafooder on the southernmost part of MDI (Probably a 35-45 minute drive from Bar Harbor) offers reliable, tasty and fairly priced fare. When you want basic fried or broiled fish or seafood, come here.

WEST STREET CAFE, Bar Harbor

I haven't been here in a few years, but similar to Seafood Ketch, though I think they also do a lot of pasta, here.

EPI'S, Bar Harbor

Freshly made Italian-style sandwiches. Maybe not like a South Philly hoagie or a Ninth Avenue sub, but filling and good. Great to take along on hikes (hold the mayo).

LITTLE NOTCH BAKERY & PIZZERIA, Southwest Harbor

Great Italian style breads (of the rustic variety) and very, very, very good pizza and hot sandwiches. The retail restaurant is on the main drag, the actual bakery out near the wharf, though you can buy the bread at a number of stores in the area.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ, Ellsworth

When we're traveling to MDI, we try to stop in Ellsworth for lunch at the Riverside Café. You may have known it as “Dick’s” when it was located at State & Main; for at least a few years, it’s been up Main Street closer to the Grand and across the street from Maidee’s. It’s a great place for breakfast or lunch, but be prepared to wait during the peak summer season, unless there is room at the counter. She Who Must Be Obeyed (SWMBO) highly recommends the excellent bacon to accompany your eggs in the morning (or at lunch). Homemade onion rings were generous, sweet and took up just the right amount of grease. I thought the clam chowder was too thick and had a higher potato/clam ratio than necessary. The fried haddock (I had it as a sandwich, but it’s also available as a platter) was excellent: very lightly battered, perfectly deep-fried with no trace of residual oil.

JORDON POND HOUSE, Acadia National Park

Operated by the company which holds the franchise for food and shops within Acadia National Park, the Jordon Pond House, while offering okay but overpriced food for lunch and dinner, is essential for afternoon "tea and popovers". The setting, with a view of The Bubbles up the pond, is delicious, the popovers hot and eggy. Reservations are a must for tea (and even then you'll probably wait 10 or 15 minutes).

BAR HARBOR INN, Bar Harbor

If you enjoy buffet brunches, especially ones with outstanding views, plan on a visit. The food is mostly what you expect for a Sunday buffet brunch – carving station, omelets and Belgian waffles to order, pastas, salads, breakfast meats – with a moderate emphasis on seafood. How many places offer Finan Haddie on a buffet table, or at all? Decent smoked salmon. The bagels were pre-sliced and divided into eighths, so it would be impossible to make a sandwich, but in this instance I considered that a plus, because it helped to prevent me from overindulging in carbohydrates. Also a nice selection smoked mussels, shrimp and scallops. What was missed from previous years, however, were the crepes with strawberry sauce.

DOWN EAST HOUSE OF DOGS, Southwest Harbor

This eatery occupies the former space of the Deacon Seat in Southwest Harbor. Based on how the Deacon Seat had declined in recent years, this is a welcome change. An awesome selection of dogs. One wonders how they can possibly maintain such a variety of stock. A freezer must help. I opted for the Best quarter-pounder when I visited last September; their menu identifies it as a NYC dog, but that's another case of the Big Apple trying to tap the barrel known as NJ: Best comes from Newark. I've never seen a Best quarter pounder before -- I'm used to the 5/pound served by Syd's, which, after tasting the quarter pounder, I prefer. Nonetheless this establishment is very welcome.

XYZ, Southwest Harbor/Manset

I hadn't been to XYZ since it moved from the waterfront at Manset to the new location off Rt. 102A. It's gotten even better, based on my visit in September 2005. A delightful room, with many of the same posters/art on the wall and old favorites on the menu. And they still make killer margaritas. A few years back Janet took lengua off the menu, apparently because of supplier issues. Well, she's got a new supplier and put it back on the menu, but in an entirely different form. Instead of braised and served hot as an entree, it's now one of the appetizer choices, served "pickled" in a vinaigrette. Absolutely fabulous! The acidity was in great balance to the paté-like richness of the tongue. I made a meal of appetizer and also enjoyed the tamales (can you say delicate and tamale in the same sentence? These were and, oddly enough, quite nice) and the queso fundido. And the lime bombe pie for the desert.

THRUMCAP, Bar Harbor

I had enjoyed Porcupine Grill on Cottage Street in Bar Harbor in past visits, but a number of years ago the owner changed the menu and renamed the establishment Thrumcap. This report is based on a visit I made in the summer of 2003, so the current incarnation may be quite different. It offers quality ingredients, imaginatively prepared (perhaps too imaginatively) and well executed. The menu is prix fixe $39. This buys you a soup or salad course, a “next” course, a small mains plate, and dessert. Wine, of course, is additional. But be warned: this is a restaurant with a single serious problem, based on our visit there last August.

The problem with Thrumcap was its presumptuousness. We were told repeatedly how good every dish was and why, and how we should eat it. The implied message: “We know what’s trendy and good, and you don’t.”

I found this attitude most telling in the wine list. I have difficulty understanding how a restaurant that prides itself on wine and prominently displays Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence” certificates does not offer a single riesling. It’s all a matter of taste, of course, but there is no finer all-around wine for food than riesling. Yes, the Alsatian pinot gris offered instead was fine, but it wasn’t riesling! When I asked the a functionary in the front room (he may have been the owner, or perhaps just a barkeep – by my measure, if not his, he was no wine steward) his explanation was that they used to offer a riesling, but he doesn’t like German rieslings so he removed it from the list. This alone demonstrates the true value of Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence”.

(A few other wine observations. Each dish on the menu comes with one or two wine recommendations, yet some of them do not appear on the wine list. Hard to know if they have them or not. SWMBO requested the chardonnay from the wine list with one of her dishes; they did not have it and replaced it with another without checking.)

Again, it’s not that any of the dishes or wines were bad or even mediocre. All were good, some excellent. It’s just that the place has an irredeemable attitude problem.

GEORGE’S, Bar Harbor

In three decades of visiting MDI, I have yet to find another restaurant that offers the combination of food, service, and gracious surroundings of George’s. It remains my favorite destination dining room on the island.

I was concerned a few years ago when I learned George had retired and sold his establishment after some 20+ years of operation. But both three years ago and last year, when I was last there, prove that while there have been natural and evolutionary changes, the high standards (as well as a few of George’s standard dishes) remain in place.

BURNING TREE, Otter Cove

A "nearly" vegetarian outpost, which many swear by. Not me.

CHASE'S, Winter Harbor

Across Frenchman's Bay from Bar Harbor (you can drive or take a passenger ferry) is this diner-like restaurant in beautiful downtown Winter Harbor. Incredible fish stews and chowders. Excellent fried clams. Non-Bar Harbor prices.

RUPUNUNI and HAVANA, Bar Harbor

A new stop for me last year was Rupununi where I indulged in Maine's Spinney Creek Oysters. a burger, and a Dogfish Head IPA. The oysters were fresh and perfectly shucked, not a single drop of liquor spilled in the shucking or in delivering the plate to me. The burger was above average, and the IPA, well, I'm a sucker for IPA and this is one of the best of the breed. The overall menu is pretty wide ranging, with something for everyone. Not a destination restaurant, but a good place to enjoy well-cooked meals and a great beer selection.

Mike Boland and his wife, Deidre are the restaurant conglamateurs of Bar Harbor. While Mike runs Rupununi (including expediting in the kitchen during peak hours), Deidre manages Havana, which has higher culinary aspirations and prices more in line with George's than Rupununi. Again, I went for a meal of appetizers: a thick, spicy tomato soup with goat-cheese encrusted crouton, a scallop with more ingredients than I can remember, also well-seasoned, and, the hit of the evening to me, mushroom spring rolls served with a delicate sauce. The soup and scallops were intensively seasoned, and if the kitchen has a fault, it is this; the natural goodness of the prime ingredient is challenged by both the intensity of the seasoning and the use of too many accompaniments to a dish. I'm not against spice and heat, but particularly with the scallop dish (which arrived a tad overcooked) the seasoning and variety of flavors nearly overwhelmed the native flavor. A little restraint would actually take Havana up a notch.

[Shmily]

Here's some info gleaned from some of my previous posts.

LOBSTER POUNDS

I’ve yet to visit a lobster pound restaurant in Mount Desert or anywhere in Hancock or Washington counties that didn’t do a great job cooking crustaceans. Just steam them so many minutes per pound and you’ve got a perfect seaside meal. Same goes for the clams (soft belly clams, the true clam, not the quahog pretender).

So, as for the debate of who does a better job, Beal’s in Southwest Harbor or Thurston’s in Bernard (on Bass Harbor), the quality of the food is not an issue. Both use fresh-hauled, minimally impounded lobsters. Both know how to cook them. Both charge about the same price.

What does make the difference is ambiance, and here Thurston’s is the clear winner. Beal’s seems hemmed in and does not offer a wide view of its harbor. Thurston’s dining area is at the end of the wharf with an expansive view of the harbor. Another edge for Thurston’s is that you can order the steamed seafood and all other offerings (dessert, burgers and hot dogs, etc.) at the same window. At Beal’s you have to walk halfway up the wharf.

Last time I was on MDI I was going to try Head of the Harbor in Southwest, but when I saw the prices for clams (I eat more pounds of clams during a week on MDI than lobster by a 4:1 ratio) my penurious personality got the best of me and I drove to Beal’s instead. Nice view, though.

Keep in mind that the prices are less expensive at the pounds in Trenton just before you cross the bridge onto MDI. I've found that Lunt's in particular is quite reliable.

SEAFOOD KETCH, Bass Harbor

This staple seafooder on the southernmost part of MDI (Probably a 35-45 minute drive from Bar Harbor) offers reliable, tasty and fairly priced fare. When you want basic fried or broiled fish or seafood, come here.

WEST STREET CAFE, Bar Harbor

I haven't been here in a few years, but similar to Seafood Ketch, though I think they also do a lot of pasta, here.

EPI'S, Bar Harbor

Freshly made Italian-style sandwiches. Maybe not like a South Philly hoagie or a Ninth Avenue sub, but filling and good. Great to take along on hikes (hold the mayo).

LITTLE NOTCH BAKERY & PIZZERIA, Southwest Harbor

Great Italian style breads (of the rustic variety) and very, very, very good pizza and hot sandwiches. The retail restaurant is on the main drag, the actual bakery out near the wharf, though you can buy the bread at a number of stores in the area.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ, Ellsworth

When we're traveling to MDI, we try to stop in Ellsworth for lunch at the Riverside Café. You may have known it as “Dick’s” when it was located at State & Main; for at least a few years, it’s been up Main Street closer to the Grand and across the street from Maidee’s. It’s a great place for breakfast or lunch, but be prepared to wait during the peak summer season, unless there is room at the counter. She Who Must Be Obeyed (SWMBO) highly recommends the excellent bacon to accompany your eggs in the morning (or at lunch). Homemade onion rings were generous, sweet and took up just the right amount of grease. I thought the clam chowder was too thick and had a higher potato/clam ratio than necessary. The fried haddock (I had it as a sandwich, but it’s also available as a platter) was excellent: very lightly battered, perfectly deep-fried with no trace of residual oil.

JORDON POND HOUSE, Acadia National Park

Operated by the company which holds the franchise for food and shops within Acadia National Park, the Jordon Pond House, while offering okay but overpriced food for lunch and dinner, is essential for afternoon "tea and popovers". The setting, with a view of The Bubbles up the pond, is delicious, the popovers hot and eggy. Reservations are a must for tea (and even then you'll probably wait 10 or 15 minutes).

BAR HARBOR INN, Bar Harbor

If you enjoy buffet brunches, especially ones with outstanding views, plan on a visit. The food is mostly what you expect for a Sunday buffet brunch – carving station, omelets and Belgian waffles to order, pastas, salads, breakfast meats – with a moderate emphasis on seafood. How many places offer Finan Haddie on a buffet table, or at all? Decent smoked salmon. The bagels were pre-sliced and divided into eighths, so it would be impossible to make a sandwich, but in this instance I considered that a plus, because it helped to prevent me from overindulging in carbohydrates. Also a nice selection smoked mussels, shrimp and scallops. What was missed from previous years, however, were the crepes with strawberry sauce.

DOWN EAST HOUSE OF DOGS, Southwest Harbor

This eatery occupies the former space of the Deacon Seat in Southwest Harbor. Based on how the Deacon Seat had declined in recent years, this is a welcome change. An awesome selection of dogs. One wonders how they can possibly maintain such a variety of stock. A freezer must help. I opted for the Best quarter-pounder when I visited last September; their menu identifies it as a NYC dog, but that's another case of the Big Apple trying to tap the barrel known as NJ: Best comes from Newark. I've never seen a Best quarter pounder before -- I'm used to the 5/pound served by Syd's, which, after tasting the quarter pounder, I prefer. Nonetheless this establishment is very welcome.

XYZ, Southwest Harbor/Manset

I hadn't been to XYZ since it moved from the waterfront at Manset to the new location off Rt. 102A. It's gotten even better, based on my visit in September 2005. A delightful room, with many of the same posters/art on the wall and old favorites on the menu. And they still make killer margaritas. A few years back Janet took lengua off the menu, apparently because of supplier issues. Well, she's got a new supplier and put it back on the menu, but in an entirely different form. Instead of braised and served hot as an entree, it's now one of the appetizer choices, served "pickled" in a vinaigrette. Absolutely fabulous! The acidity was in great balance to the paté-like richness of the tongue. I made a meal of appetizer and also enjoyed the tamales (can you say delicate and tamale in the same sentence? These were and, oddly enough, quite nice) and the queso fundido. And the lime bombe pie for the desert.

THRUMCAP, Bar Harbor

I had enjoyed Porcupine Grill on Cottage Street in Bar Harbor in past visits, but a number of years ago the owner changed the menu and renamed the establishment Thrumcap. This report is based on a visit I made in the summer of 2003, so the current incarnation may be quite different. It offers quality ingredients, imaginatively prepared (perhaps too imaginatively) and well executed. The menu is prix fixe $39. This buys you a soup or salad course, a “next” course, a small mains plate, and dessert. Wine, of course, is additional. But be warned: this is a restaurant with a single serious problem, based on our visit there last August.

The problem with Thrumcap was its presumptuousness. We were told repeatedly how good every dish was and why, and how we should eat it. The implied message: “We know what’s trendy and good, and you don’t.”

I found this attitude most telling in the wine list. I have difficulty understanding how a restaurant that prides itself on wine and prominently displays Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence” certificates does not offer a single riesling. It’s all a matter of taste, of course, but there is no finer all-around wine for food than riesling. Yes, the Alsatian pinot gris offered instead was fine, but it wasn’t riesling! When I asked the a functionary in the front room (he may have been the owner, or perhaps just a barkeep – by my measure, if not his, he was no wine steward) his explanation was that they used to offer a riesling, but he doesn’t like German rieslings so he removed it from the list. This alone demonstrates the true value of Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence”.

(A few other wine observations. Each dish on the menu comes with one or two wine recommendations, yet some of them do not appear on the wine list. Hard to know if they have them or not. SWMBO requested the chardonnay from the wine list with one of her dishes; they did not have it and replaced it with another without checking.)

Again, it’s not that any of the dishes or wines were bad or even mediocre. All were good, some excellent. It’s just that the place has an irredeemable attitude problem.

GEORGE’S, Bar Harbor

In three decades of visiting MDI, I have yet to find another restaurant that offers the combination of food, service, and gracious surroundings of George’s. It remains my favorite destination dining room on the island.

I was concerned a few years ago when I learned George had retired and sold his establishment after some 20+ years of operation. But both three years ago and last year, when I was last there, prove that while there have been natural and evolutionary changes, the high standards (as well as a few of George’s standard dishes) remain in place.

BURNING TREE, Otter Cove

A "nearly" vegetarian outpost, which many swear by. Not me.

CHASE'S, Winter Harbor

Across Frenchman's Bay from Bar Harbor (you can drive or take a passenger ferry) is this diner-like restaurant in beautiful downtown Winter Harbor. Incredible fish stews and chowders. Excellent fried clams. Non-Bar Harbor prices.

RUPUNUNI and HAVANA, Bar Harbor

A new stop for me last year was Rupununi where I indulged in Maine's Spinney Creek Oysters. a burger, and a Dogfish Head IPA. The oysters were fresh and perfectly shucked, not a single drop of liquor spilled in the shucking or in delivering the plate to me. The burger was above average, and the IPA, well, I'm a sucker for IPA and this is one of the best of the breed. The overall menu is pretty wide ranging, with something for everyone. Not a destination restaurant, but a good place to enjoy well-cooked meals and a great beer selection.

Mike Boland and his wife, Deidre are the restaurant conglamateurs of Bar Harbor. While Mike runs Rupununi (including expediting in the kitchen during peak hours), Deidre manages Havana, which has higher culinary aspirations and prices more in line with George's than Rupununi. Again, I went for a meal of appetizers: a thick, spicy tomato soup with goat-cheese encrusted crouton, a scallop with more ingredients than I can remember, also well-seasoned, and, the hit of the evening to me, mushroom spring rolls served with a delicate sauce. The soup and scallops were intensively seasoned, and if the kitchen has a fault, it is this; the natural goodness of the prime ingredient is challenged by both the intensity of the seasoning and the use of too many accompaniments to a dish. I'm not against spice and heat, but particularly with the scallop dish (which arrived a tad overcooked) the seasoning and variety of flavors nearly overwhelmed the native flavor. A little restraint would actually take Havana up a notch.

←

Dear Bob, I thank you very much for all the info....We have had sandwiches at Little Notch..they have ranged from outstanding to overcooked and too dry chicken...XYZ sounds intersting, but I know little about Mexican food...what is queso fundido?? I know the cheese..but...?? What else have you eaten there?? We try to watch our weight and have had trouble finding places that cook simply...know anything about Top of the Hill?? just outside SW Harbor? We stay in a B&B and have healthy but "heavy on the carbs" breakfasts...

I am a new member..where can I find your earlier posts?? Thank you again...

[rlibkind]

Dear Bob, I thank you very much for all the info....We have had sandwiches at Little Notch..they have ranged from outstanding to overcooked and too dry chicken...XYZ sounds intersting, but I know little about Mexican food...what is queso fundido?? I know the cheese..but...??  What else have you eaten there??  We try to watch our weight and have had trouble finding places that cook simply...know anything about Top of the Hill?? just outside SW Harbor?  We stay in a B&B and have healthy but "heavy on the carbs" breakfasts...

  I am a new member..where can I find your earlier posts??  Thank you again...  

←

It's not difficult to eat the way you wish on MDI. For breakfast and lunch there's a pita/lunch restaurant on SWH's main drag, Cafe 2 / Eat-a-Pita, that probably will fit the bill. Although I'm not a fan, I suspect you might enjoy The Burning Tree in Otter Creek which emphasizes non-fried seafood and vegetarian fare. Lots of places offer salads of various sorts.

I won't pretend that XYZ has "healthy" food if you consider cheese and pork unhealthy. (I don't.) But it is among the most flavorful food you will find on MDI. the Queso fundida is basically Mexican fondue: melted cheese, frequently mixed with Mexican chorizo, which you scoop up with tortillas or chips, etc. They have a lengua (tongue) appetizer that is to die for. Simple it is not. Delicious, yes. As far as I've been able to determine, they haven't put up a new website yet that I can link to. But expect some adventurous menu items (like the lengua) along with very well-executed standards, like chicken mole, roast pork, chile rellenos (XYZ's is baked, not fried), etc. This is not a cookie-cutter Mexican restaurant; more like Chicago's Frontera Grill or Scottsdale's Los Sombreros than your local Chi Chi's or Baja Fresh.

Any of the basic fish house restaurants should be able to prepare a simple broiled fish. Just ask them to go easy on the butter/oil and avoid sauce in its entirety. Although they certainly have a fair amount of red meat and fried seafood, you should be able to find healthier fare at Rupununi.

George's has a cafe menu that is considerably less expensive and I think comes closer to your desire for simple cooking.

I've generally just struck with pizza at Little Notch. Too bad about that chicken.

You can always do picnic lunches and/or dinners. There's an organic farm on Beech Hill Road which is a project of the College of the Atlantic: Beech Hill Farm. It's farmstand is open 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

Rather lengthy discussions about Bar Harbor/Mount Desert Island restaurants can be found here, here, here and, most recently, here.

[Varmint]

Bob's summary is spot on -- I've been to the island a couple of times in the past few years and have tried several of the places he recommends. You can eat very well on MDI. And I'm definitely in the Thurston's camp when it comes to lobster pounds.

[francois]

Any suggestions for motels, cottages or inns in the area?

[rlibkind]

Any suggestions for motels, cottages or inns in the area?

←

In 35 years of visiting MDI I can only recall one bum room, and even that was tolerable. Most lodgings are just fine. Check out the various websites (search for Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce and Southwest Harbor Chamber) and you'll find extensive, though by no means complete, lists, many with links to full descriptions and photos. Depends what you like. Lots of plain, clean, no fuss cottages (mostly tiny one and two-room cabins, though some are considerably larger), B&B's, small inns and more upscale lodgings. Cottages and cabins usually rent for one-week minimums in July and August, Saturday-to-Saturday. A few old-fashioned motels, too.

[Shmily]

Dear Bob, I thank you very much for all the info....We have had sandwiches at Little Notch..they have ranged from outstanding to overcooked and too dry chicken...XYZ sounds intersting, but I know little about Mexican food...what is queso fundido?? I know the cheese..but...??  What else have you eaten there??  We try to watch our weight and have had trouble finding places that cook simply...know anything about Top of the Hill?? just outside SW Harbor?  We stay in a B&B and have healthy but "heavy on the carbs" breakfasts...

  I am a new member..where can I find your earlier posts??  Thank you again...  

←

It's not difficult to eat the way you wish on MDI. For breakfast and lunch there's a pita/lunch restaurant on SWH's main drag, Cafe 2 / Eat-a-Pita, that probably will fit the bill. Although I'm not a fan, I suspect you might enjoy The Burning Tree in Otter Creek which emphasizes non-fried seafood and vegetarian fare. Lots of places offer salads of various sorts.

I won't pretend that XYZ has "healthy" food if you consider cheese and pork unhealthy. (I don't.) But it is among the most flavorful food you will find on MDI. the Queso fundida is basically Mexican fondue: melted cheese, frequently mixed with Mexican chorizo, which you scoop up with tortillas or chips, etc. They have a lengua (tongue) appetizer that is to die for. Simple it is not. Delicious, yes. As far as I've been able to determine, they haven't put up a new website yet that I can link to. But expect some adventurous menu items (like the lengua) along with very well-executed standards, like chicken mole, roast pork, chile rellenos (XYZ's is baked, not fried), etc. This is not a cookie-cutter Mexican restaurant; more like Chicago's Frontera Grill or Scottsdale's Los Sombreros than your local Chi Chi's or Baja Fresh.

Any of the basic fish house restaurants should be able to prepare a simple broiled fish. Just ask them to go easy on the butter/oil and avoid sauce in its entirety. Although they certainly have a fair amount of red meat and fried seafood, you should be able to find healthier fare at Rupununi.

George's has a cafe menu that is considerably less expensive and I think comes closer to your desire for simple cooking.

I've generally just struck with pizza at Little Notch. Too bad about that chicken.

You can always do picnic lunches and/or dinners. There's an organic farm on Beech Hill Road which is a project of the College of the Atlantic: Beech Hill Farm. It's farmstand is open 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

Rather lengthy discussions about Bar Harbor/Mount Desert Island restaurants can be found here, here, here and, most recently, here.

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Thank you for a wonderful, helpful summary...will spend more time carefully reading your links...Can't wait to go back to Thurstons (have been enjoying their lobsters since before they shot the movie there)..and to try some other places.

[rlibkind]

...know anything about Top of the Hill?? just outside SW Harbor?

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Haven't been to Top of the Hill since before it got that name. Went there once when it was known as the Happy Crab. At that point in time (lo, probably 15-18 years ago) it was your basic Mount Desert seafooder: the quality depended on how recently they changed the fryer oil or made the mornay.

[Shmily]

Hi..Found another interesting source by following Bob's suggestion of looking on the Southwest Harbor Chamber of Commerce site...there is a magazine called "Maine Boats, Homes and Gardens" and they have a restaurant review section called "Mainly Gourmet"...as you go back through the issues there is a review of XYZ as well as Red Sky and a homemade ice cream place in Ellsworth called Mainley Moo, as well as reviews of other Maine places. When I was looking on Google for reviews of XYZ, I found a reference to this Forum!! Just doing the investigating is such fun...now, if only I could get the same help for a trip to San Diego, I would be all set...Thank you again.

[Varmint]

Any suggestions for motels, cottages or inns in the area?

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In 35 years of visiting MDI I can only recall one bum room, and even that was tolerable. Most lodgings are just fine. Check out the various websites (search for Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce and Southwest Harbor Chamber) and you'll find extensive, though by no means complete, lists, many with links to full descriptions and photos. Depends what you like. Lots of plain, clean, no fuss cottages (mostly tiny one and two-room cabins, though some are considerably larger), B&B's, small inns and more upscale lodgings. Cottages and cabins usually rent for one-week minimums in July and August, Saturday-to-Saturday. A few old-fashioned motels, too.

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We have always rented a house and have never had a problem. If you're going to be there for a week, I strongly recommend looking at houses from the local realtors.

[Shmily]

To everyone who so kindly gave me information...We just made our definate reservations to spend 9 nights in Southwest Harbor in late September...I am pretty excited as I get every year...and I called Thurstons to be certain they would not close until Columbus Day and we plan to try XYZ and Red SKy..will give you a report after our return...Thank you all again...

[scordelia]

There are a couple of more spots--

The Thirsty Whale in Bar Harbor has the best fried clams in the whole world.

Gaylan's Galley in Bar Harbor is very good--especially the lobster stew and indian pudding.

[Shmily]

There are a couple of more spots--

The Thirsty Whale in Bar Harbor has the best fried clams in the whole world.

Gaylan's Galley in Bar Harbor is very good--especially the lobster stew and indian pudding.

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[scordelia]

Well, include the Thirsty Whale's clams in your tee-shirt shopping expedition. You will not be disappointed. Thurston's is good, but no one does better clams than the Whale.

[Shmily]

Well, include the Thirsty Whale's clams in your tee-shirt shopping expedition. You will not be disappointed. Thurston's is good, but no one does better clams than the Whale.

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Hi ...Doe the Thirsty Whale do other than fried..I love fried, but for health reason, I try so hard to avoid it...That is why we go to Thrustons...

[Yannii]

hi, another philly guy heading down to bar harbor this summer (end of august - will it be entirely over run with toursits like myself?)

firstly, thanks for all the previous advice, much appreciated. i was wondering if anybody had any opinions about dining at the bar harbor club, the menu and view look/sound nice... thanks

link to bar harbor club info

[Shmily]

hi, another philly guy heading down to bar harbor this summer (end of august - will it be entirely over run with toursits like myself?)

firstly, thanks for all the previous advice, much appreciated. i was wondering if anybody had any opinions about dining at the bar harbor club, the menu and view look/sound nice... thanks

link to bar harbor club info

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Dear Yannii...I do believe that Bar Harbor will be pretty crowded in laste August..it still is in September when we go...I hope that while you are there you will have the chance to see more of Acadia also...like sunset from the top of Cadillac Mountain (you can drive up and park at the lot just BELOW the summit for the best views)...get to Thurstons for lobster and see the bass Harbor Lighthouse...if you have a chance drive back to Ellsworth and go to the next eninsula north ...Schootic..more of Acadia Natl. Park but very different look...pretty flat...in Elsworth, check out the LLBean outlet...can happen upon great buys...Have a wonderful trip...Some years ago we stayed at a B&B owned by the chef from the Bar Harbor Inn..when he made breakfast, it was great...

[rlibkind]

An update just to let everyone know that George's is no more. Never opened for this season, and the building is up for sale. Even if it had a good, long run (close to 30 years), I'll still miss it.

[Shmily]

has anyone had any dining experiences there this year?? would love to hear..

[chowfun]

There are a couple of places that are missing from this thread that are not to miss on MDI. One is the Atlantic Brewing Company. You can take their tour and/or go to their restaurant which features their beer, and a nice pub menu. On Saturday's they have all you can eat barbecue that is quite good. Part of the charm of this place is the setting which is laid back and relaxed with a nice outdoor seating area amoungst the wildflowers.

Our favorite restaurant on the island is Cafe This Way in Bar Harbor. Fresh local produce, excellent seafood and nice vegetarian options, good dessert. They also do a great brunch.

We have now been meaning to go to Blue Sage Bistro in Town Hill for years. It has been recommened to us from a few sources.

Two Cats does a very good dinner, but I dont think they serve dinner in the fall.

A not to miss bakery is Morning Glory in Bar Harbor. Excellent bread, out of this world pastries, good sandwich menu (nice to take for a picnic).

I am so excited, we are going up to MDI for two weeks in a week. We have to check out XYZ after all of the recommendations, and the hot dog stand in seawall.