Aspen Food & Wine Classic

[cabrales]

Dan & Mike -- I'd appreciate learning about some of the themes that emerged from the Aspen Food & Wine Classic, and your reactions to them. For instance, what are your thoughts on "raw" (non-sushi) dishes such as Trotter's coconut pad thai (which reportedly involved the substitution of julienned coconut meat for the typical noodles)?

Also, what dishes did you prepare in Aspen and why did you choose those compositions?

[bluehill]

Cabrales,

Attending the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen this year was a great highlight thus far in our careers. Although, I did not taste Charlie Trotter's dish there were a good number of interesting ideas presented there.

For the Best New Chef's Dinner we presented for 800 people a CITRUS-CURED SALMON WITH ARTICHOKE PUREE, SAFFRON PICKLED FENNEL AND LEMONCELLO FOAM.

The dish was served at room temperature which is ideal for large functions staged away from the kitchen. We presented the dish in a large shooter glass which allowed the guests to visually enjoy the layering effect of the ingredients before digging in with a spoon.

Having chefs like Jacques Pepin, Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, Nobu Matsuhisa and many others was gut wrenching but ultimately extremely gratifying.

Thanks for your question.

Mike

[cabrales]

CITRUS-CURED SALMON WITH ARTICHOKE PUREE, SAFFRON PICKLED FENNEL AND LEMONCELLO FOAM.

Mike -- On the cured salmon, was it included in the shotglass diced or in larger individual chunks? Could you provide thoughts on the extent (if any) to which the individual size of the salmon pieces might affect (1) the ease with which diners could discern the citrus curing, and (2) the textural interest against the backdrop of the artichoke puree and lemoncello foam (could you describe lemoncello a bit as well)? Also, did the citrus-cured salmon recipe come before or after the Smoked Salmon Belly with Avocado-Yogurt Puree and Pickled Watermelon dish (with lemon-based glaze) described in Art Culinaire?

[bluehill]

cabrales,

To cure the salmon for the dish we prepared in Aspen we started by mixing kosher salt, sugar, lemon, orange and lime zestes with toasted coriander, star anise and white peppercorns. Finally, a little vodka and the mixture is spread, much like the consistency of wet sand over the entire surface of the salmon fillet. (The skin of the fillet has first been removed and the filet trimmed to even thickness from start to finish.) Then we wrapped the fillet in plastic and let cure for 13 hours.

To finish the dish we sliced thinly the salmon, drapping two or three paper-thin pieces around the lower sides of the glass. Then we piped in the puree, and added the pickled fennel.

The lemoncello foam is a simple process; we braised fennel with saffron until tender then puree. We added lemon juice, simple syrup, the braising liquid and vodka. Finally, we add leaves of gelatine and let set. When the mixture has cooled to a semi-solid state it is then loaded in a whip cream canister. We like the theatrical effect of shooting the foam over the dish in front of the guests.

All of this took place in front of the camera crew for the Gordon Elliot show, Follow That Food. So unless Gordon decides to edit the footage dramatically you should be able to see the whole process on his show sometime soon!

Dan and I have worked with this dish in several variations for large events and it has evolved independently from the Hot Smoked Salmon dish that appears in Art Culinaire.

Hope that gives you a clear picture of the dish.

Mike