Dining in Large Japanese Cities

[robyn]

We've been in Japan for almost a week now - Tokyo and Osaka. And I have some observations which might be useful if you're planning a trip to Japan.

First - the major cities in Japan are really, really big. Osaka is perhaps the size of New York - but metro Tokyo - with a population of over 35 million - is huge. Travel distances can be formidable - and travel can be difficult during rush hours. So don't get your heart set on some restaurant you heard about that's on the other end of town from wherever you are. I've heard there are 100,000 restaurants in Tokyo. There are lots and lots of good ones - and quite a few great ones. Pick places that are close to where you are.

Second - especially at the higher end - lunch is frequently a bargain compared to dinner. So look at lunches. Won't be a problem for most visitors from places like the east coast of the United States for the first week. You'll be starving at noon for a dinner-like meal - and asleep well before a fashionable dinner dining time.

Third - for English speakers - there may be a beaten tourist path here - but we haven't found it yet. English isn't spoken at most of the restaurants we've dined at. My husband studied Japanese for a year before this trip (he's good at languages) - and I think it's a good investment of time to learn at least a bit before you go. Invest in a few books for eating - like Robb Satterwhite's "What's What in Japanese Restaurants" and Richard Hosking's "Dictionary of Japanese Food".

And do not hesitate to take advantage of anyone you know - or think you might want to meet - when dining. Invite anyone and everyone who lives here to dine with you. You won't regret it. We've dined with many people. Including the son of a friend of ours who lives in northeast Tokyo (and his family). He took us to his "local" Chinese restaurant - owned by "Iron Chef Chinese" Chen. Great fun. If you guess a place like this would be a tourist place - guess again. I'm glad he and his wife spoke fluent Japanese.

Fourth - I recommend the department store food basements for sampling various kinds of food. Although if you don't speak any Japanese - you probably won't be able to find out what you're eating unless you can identify it by sight.

Fifth - we've encountered a huge number of incredibly friendly helpful people at restaurants (both chefs and staff). What we couldn't communicate in terms of spoken language - we did with hand signs (note that the latter is not recommended at high end restaurants when they're busy - we ran across an English speaking "foodie" in Japan who has been told by some higher end places that people who don't speak any Japanese simply aren't welcome at their establishments).

But Japanese society is very polite - and relatively reserved. E.g., it is not a place where people eat in public (except at places like the cherry blossom festival in Osaka). It is not a place where one whips out his/her camera at dinner and starts clicking away during a meal. Even cooks at street fairs - like the cherry blossom festival in Osaka - didn't seem to want to have their pictures taken. However - they were willing to allow us to take pictures of their street food (after we'd bought some - and asked permission to take pictures). Like this. Anyone know what it is? I don't . Robyn

[torakris]

Robyn,

I am glad you are enjoying your trip!

I have no idea what that picture is though, maybe an Osaka thing?

It does look good though.

[tokyogurumegal]

Make sure you have plenty of cash too! Credit cards are accepted in many places but culturally people tend to pay with cash at restaurants.

[herbacidal]

Make sure you have plenty of cash too!  Credit cards are accepted in many places but culturally people tend to pay with cash at restaurants.

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Certain cellphones can be used to charge things, right?

Do they work by just sending an amount to be charged to an existing account?

Is there any reason a disposable cell phone with a built in debit amount wouldn't work?

[buffy]

Robyn,

That photo looks like okonomiyaki on a stick.

[torakris]

Make sure you have plenty of cash too!  Credit cards are accepted in many places but culturally people tend to pay with cash at restaurants.

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Certain cellphones can be used to charge things, right?

Do they work by just sending an amount to be charged to an existing account?

Is there any reason a disposable cell phone with a built in debit amount wouldn't work?

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Yes cell phones can be used to buy various things, this article explains it a bit.

The problem is the only restaurants I have seen set up for this are the "family" restaurants and other mediocre chains. You will not see this in any high end place and even most of the smaller mom and pop kind places.

My husband uses the new mobile suica in which you no longer need to purchase an actual train ticket you just swipe your cell phone.

[robyn]

Make sure you have plenty of cash too!  Credit cards are accepted in many places but culturally people tend to pay with cash at restaurants.

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We have actually used a lot less cash than we thought we would (perhaps that is because we've been sticking pretty much to "contemporary Japan" - where credit cards are accepted almost everywhere). Robyn

[robyn]

Robyn,

That photo looks like okonomiyaki on a stick.

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I think that's what it is too. FWIW - it looked better than it tasted (but at 100 yen - about $1 each - there was no downside in trying). Robyn