StudioKitchen (2002-2007)

[Chris Amirault]

Astonishing, once again. And those pictures! Just fantastic.

[philadining]

Percyn wrote:

2003 Hermann Wiemer Gewürztraminer - A shockingly good GW and one of my favorite pairings for the evening.

I'm glad you liked it, and I'll agree it was a really nice match with the squash, and I want to take a minute to give some props where props are due: big thanks to our own rlibkind for mentioning this wine here on eGullet, I hadn't paid any attention to this NYS Finger Lakes winery, but they do indeed make a darn fine gewurtz as well as some other German-style whites. I've got a bottle of their late harvest gewurtz that'll I'm looking forward to trying.

And thanks to Diann for reminding us that this was sitting in the ice bucket, I was kind of zoning-out, not totally digging the sherry either, but forgetting that we had another option!

I'll second what Percy said about the sherry, it was indeed tasty stuff, and I completely understand the logic of suggesting it as a match for the squash, but it was just too much for this soup. We made good use of it toward the end of the evening!

I liked that Niedrist Rose too, that's two of his wines I've really liked now. Bears further investigation.

Edited November 4, 2005 by philadining (log)

[KatieLoeb]

I take responsibility for suggesting the badly matched sherry. Having not tasted the soup before, I didn't realize how delicate it was. Of course if I got to taste everything in advance Shola wouldn't have as much fun rubbing his hands together and playing Stump-the-Sommelier. And of course, having missed this particular gathering, I still haven't tasted the soup. Your pornographic descriptions will have to do.

That's kind of like methadone for the brain, isn't it?

That Finger Lakes Gewurz sounds divine as well.

And yet another reappearance of the Sept Grains! God, I love that wine...

Glad you're grooving on the Niedrist wines. I haven't tried the Rose, but I have no doubt it's up to Herr Niedrist's usual exacting standards. I told you he prunes his grapes with a manicuring scissor, didn't I? A little bit OCD to say the least.

<sigh> Yet another fabulous StudioKitchen dinner. Jeff you really need to put "Food Photographer" on your resume already.

[I_call_the_duck]

Don’t blame yourself about the sherry, Katie. We appreciate your recommendations. It made for a very good after-dinner drink though. I think the moscato was one: Moscato D'Asti Sourgal, Perrone, but I’m not sure. I think it was a 1999. We’ll probably be picking some up the next time we’re in the store anyways.

Percy, that close-up of the rack of rabbit is great. I almost forgot that you took pictures too. Katie’s right about the food pornography. If I had a locker, I’d hang it up there.

I think the pairings went very well, but the Gewürztraminer was my favorite too.

And I’m still fondly recalling the Chinese celery broth.

Must...go...back...

Edited November 4, 2005 by I_call_the_duck (log)

[GordonCooks]

Herman Weimer has been making some of the best NY Reislings and Gerwurtztraminers for years.

[herbacidal]

It was most definitely a great combination of food, wine, conversation, and setting.

For me, it was also very nice getting updated with the latest from Shola on his plans, current methods, etc.

He's buying a lot of lab equipment to use in kitchens, a la el Bulli, Alinea, etc.

It's a component of the restaurant preparation plans, so he's still moving forward on that, ever so slowly and carefully.

[Diann]

So, I am no longer a Studiokitchen virgin, and it was everything it was billed to be -- and more!

I think the way to describe Shola's food is a brilliant mix of (1) familiar tastes improved and intensified, and (2) new flavor and texture combinations that laymen wouldn't think of...which is why we turn to Shola.

The wines were lovely, especially that rose champagne, the HW gewurztraminer, the Gigondas, and the muscato, but I agree with Philadining: I didn't want to focus on the wines -- the food here should command your complete attention. (Which is not to say that those of you with deep cellars shouldn't share the wealth when attending a SK dinner -- just that the $300 bottles aren't totally necessary.)

Onto the food. My favorite parts: the mackerel-and-apple combination, the Chinese celery broth (this is what ramen broth dreams of being when it grows up, I swear), the rabbit encased in puff pastry (again, the purest essence of a sixty-cent Chinese barbequed pork bun), the foie gras plate...

Let me tell you about the foie dish. I don't even like foie gras normally -- not when it's a big ol' hunk of liver seared and slapped down on the plate. (Sacrilege! I know!) But this foie I could eat for days and days -- just a tiny bit of creamy, smooth, fatty pate to offset the tart/bitter endive, the sweet crunchy pears, the intense honey miso, the salty rye crisp, and the tea-soaked prunes. This dish was a revelation. Everything in life should be this perfectly balanced -- and this interesting.

Speaking of interesting, lovely conversation as usual, lovely folks, lovely room, lovely furniture...

Huge thank you's to Herb, Karen and Carl for organizing and bringing wine, Jeff for that gewurz., and to Shola, of course. Hurray for Philadelphia!

[I_call_the_duck]

He's buying a lot of lab equipment to use in kitchens, a la el Bulli, Alinea, etc.

It's a component of the restaurant preparation plans, so he's still moving forward on that, ever so slowly and carefully.

←

To be completely and utterly selfish, I hope he moves slowly. I need a few more of his dinners under my belt.

but I agree with Philadining: I didn't want to focus on the wines -- the food here should command your complete attention. (Which is not to say that those of you with deep cellars shouldn't share the wealth when attending a SK dinner -- just that the $300 bottles aren't totally necessary.)

←

Diann, thanks for coming. I agree with you. I think philadining summed it up quite nicely here. The wines served as a good background to an incredible meal.

Liver? Foie gras?! YUM!!

[mrbigjas]

And to those at home, feeling jealous, just remember, be open, be receptive, and just say yes.

you forgot 'be home'!

[herbacidal]

And to those at home, feeling jealous, just remember, be open, be receptive, and just say yes.

you forgot 'be home'!

←

Not entirely necessary. But being by a Egullet-capable computer is.

[mrbigjas]

ha... i meant in philadelphia. i wasn't in town to come even if i'd gotten the message in time.

[wkl]

Last night at SK, 8 of us had a meal and experience that really is hard to put into words. For those of you who have been, you understand. For those of you who haven't, what are you waiting for?

Okay, here goes what will probably be an inadequate description of a phenomanal meal. (Alas, we forgot our camera.However, there are some cell phone picturres that we may be able to post later.)

Last nights (11/15) menu:

Lemon Cured Scallop Sashimi

Fig-Olive Tapenade

Cucumber Sorbet

Lemon Balm

Mint Oil

Extremely refreshing mix of flavors here.

This was a new creation for Shola and he really wanted our feedback.We loved it. We paired this with Thierry Triolet Brut Les Vieilles Vignes 2002. Lovely Champagne that matched really well with the subtle cucumber, and more assertive mint and lemon. Shola said ,"All the flavors and temperatures are there"

Foie Gras Custard

Speck and Black Truffle Panini

Lychee Vinegar Air

Shola at his whimsical best with this course. He told us he really enjoys taking serious ingredients (foie gras) and matching it with something fun (a soup and sandwich presentation). The foie custard was served in a small coffee cup underneath a lychee vinegar foam.The panini was was along side almost begging to be be dipped through the foam into the foie custard.In short, this was incredible.I can still taste the black truffle. for wine, 1999 Johann Peter Rienert Kanzemer reisling Auslese. An ideal match.

Wild Striped Bass

Serrano Ham

Chestnut Cream

Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Jerez Sauce

I believe the fish was cooked sous vide and quickly sauteed for color. Whatever, It was sublime. Chestnut Cream? Unreal! Two burgundies with this course. Claude Dugat Bourgogne Rouge 2002, and Henri Germain Bourgogne Blanc 2002. Good matches, but this dish was so good the wines took a backseat here.

Salt Baked Lamb Loin

Mache dressed with Walnut Oil

Opting to skip the amuse earlier, Shola snuck this in on us. Very simple preparation and a little fun also. Lamb lettuce (mache) served with lamb. We talked a bit about how high quality ingredients prepared in the right hands are wonderful. A 1997 Fattoria Palazzo Vecchio Vino Noblie was at it's peak and worked really well here. It was fun to revisit a wine I hadn't drank in a few years.

Wagyu Beef Flatiron Steak "Cuit Sous Vide"

Braised Oxtail Ravioli

Sweet Parsnips

Thyme Oil

Shola skipped the parsnips here and chose to add a Japanese beef stew with squash.So, we really had beef three ways. I left my notes, so I don't remember the name of the stew, but it is a traditional Japanese preparation using miso, mirin and other ingredients I can't recall. We were swooning at this point. One of our party, after biting into the oxtail ravioli said, "This is so......." his eyes then rolled into the back of his head and he was unable to finish his sentence. We all knew he was going somewhere good and the table broke into laughter.This was the course of the night for me. A 1999 GD Vajra Barolo Bricco della Viole worked amazingly well with the Japanese stew.

Peach – Ginger Soup

Yuzu Sorbet

Orange Granola

Apricot kernel Oil

Lemon Balm

What else can I say? Shola passed around the ice cold bucket with the remaining Yuzu Sorbet, kinda like Mom letting her kids lick the bowl and beaters after making cookies or frosting. Two wines here: 1997 Chateau Soucherie Couteaux de Layon and 2001 Domaine Baumard Quarts des Chaumes. Both Loire Valley Chenin Blanc.

All in all, an incredible meal. Shola was engaing as usual and we can't wait to head back.

Edited November 16, 2005 by wkl (log)

[shacke]

I will be there tonight and will also be having the beef 3 ways and bass. The beef stew is Niku Jaga.

Thanks for the descriptions and I am now feeling confident about my wine pairings too. It can be hard to judge pairings before you get there based on the description of the dish.

Glad you loved it. Hard not too.....

PS - I will have pics at some point of those courses so no worries.

Evan

Edited November 16, 2005 by shacke (log)

[phungi]

2 quick questions:

1. How does one reserve or secure a seat at a Studio Kitchen event?

2. What is the cost? I searched the thread and only found $50 from a 2002 post.

[philadining]

2 quick questions:

1.  How does one reserve or secure a seat at a Studio Kitchen event?

email him, studiokitchen .. little at thingy.. gmail.com ask about open dates. Don't panic when he doesn't get back to you right away, he's busy cooking. There aren't many open available days left this year, but he is indeed doing some in early 2006. Otherwise, keep an eye out on the ISO thread, or the special StudioKitchen thread that got set-up but nobody has used. With enough notice, it's easy to round up a group of 8 or 10 just from eGullet. Use ISO, or send some PMs, people will come. Be careful to pick open-minded dining partners, because you are all eating the same thing.

2.  What is the cost? I searched the thread and only found $50 from a 2002 post.

←

I'm sure updates are buried in there somewhere, but as of right now it's $100 inclusive of tax and service. That is to say, at the end of the meal, leave $100 per person, cash-only. Still an amazing deal.

Oh, and wkl, thanks for that great post, sounded fantastic.

[I_call_the_duck]

With enough notice, it's easy to round up a group of 8 or 10 just from eGullet. Use ISO, or send some PMs, people will come. Be careful to pick open-minded dining partners, because you are all eating the same thing.

←

With even a day's notice, I'm sure philadining will come! But he's right--it won't be hard to find egulleters to fill any spaces you may have available. I for one will come.

[ferky]

My first EG post. . . .

My wife and I recently lucked into a StudioKitchen invitation for tomorrow (Fri) night. We have never been but we're really excited. There are two problems though:

1) My wife doesn't drink at all; hates it, always had. I drink but due to some painful stomach problems, I can't drink wine. I'm a beer and gin (not together) guy. I don't want to seem inappropriate or uncouth, but would there be anything wrong with bringing some beer or even (shudder) a small bottle of gin to pour over some ice?

2) I have a severe nut allergy. It's always hampered my eating habits but I get by. The last thing I wanted was for my allergy to affect the 7 other SK diners (4 of whom I've never even met), but according to the couple that set the dinner up, Shola is aware of my allergy and will make the appropriate adjustments to just my meal so no one else has to be left out. Hope he doesn't forget; nothing ruins a good night like a visit to the emergency room.

Here is the menu that we were sent. Looks like there are a few repeats or slight variations from what he's been trying recently, but I'm sure that just means that he's had time to improve them! CANNOT WAIT!

> Torchon of Foie Gras and Unagi

> Sorrell Salad

> Miso Lemon Gelee

> Black Bread, Indonesian Long Pepper

> Lychee Vinegar Froth

>

> Truffle Risotto

> CrabMeat, Edamame

> Almond milk

>

> Wild Striped Bass

> Potato-Serrano Ham Crust

> Chestnut Cream

> Black Trumpet Mushrooms

> Jerez Sauce

>

> Wagyu Beef 3 Ways

> Applewood Smoked Flatiron "Cuit Sous Vide"

> Sweet Parsnips, Thyme Oil

>

> Kabocha "Niku Jaga"

>

> Braised Oxtail Ravioli

>

> Crustless Chocolate Tart

> Black Sesame Seed Praline

> Espresso Scented Chocolate - Chestnut Sorbet

> Black Pepper Orange Streuse

[wkl]

Welcome Ferky!

No problem bringing beer. I don't believe spirits are allowed at SK. Beer actually would work well with some of the food at SK.

If Shoala is aware of your allergies, I'm sure he won't forget.

You are in for a real treat.

[shacke]

My first EG post. . . .

My wife and I recently lucked into a StudioKitchen invitation for tomorrow (Fri) night.  We have never been but we're really excited.  There are two problems though:

1)  My wife doesn't drink at all; hates it, always had.  I drink but due to some painful stomach problems, I can't drink wine.  I'm a beer and gin (not together) guy.  I don't want to seem inappropriate or uncouth, but would there be anything wrong with bringing some beer or even (shudder) a small bottle of gin to pour over some ice?

2)  I have a severe nut allergy.  It's always hampered my eating habits but I get by.  The last thing I wanted was for my allergy to affect the 7 other SK diners (4 of whom I've never even met), but according to the couple that set the dinner up, Shola is aware of my allergy and will make the appropriate adjustments to just my meal so no one else has to be left out.  Hope he doesn't forget; nothing ruins a good night like a visit to the emergency room.

Here is the menu that we were sent.  Looks like there are a few repeats or slight variations from what he's been trying recently, but I'm sure that just means that he's had time to improve them!  CANNOT WAIT!

> Torchon of Foie Gras and Unagi

> Sorrell Salad

> Miso Lemon Gelee

> Black Bread, Indonesian Long Pepper

> Lychee Vinegar Froth

>

> Truffle Risotto

> CrabMeat, Edamame

> Almond milk

>

> Wild Striped Bass

> Potato-Serrano Ham Crust

> Chestnut Cream

> Black Trumpet Mushrooms

> Jerez Sauce

>

> Wagyu Beef 3 Ways

> Applewood Smoked Flatiron "Cuit Sous Vide"

> Sweet Parsnips, Thyme Oil

>

> Kabocha "Niku Jaga"

>

> Braised Oxtail Ravioli

>

> Crustless Chocolate Tart

> Black Sesame Seed Praline

> Espresso Scented Chocolate - Chestnut Sorbet

> Black Pepper Orange Streuse

←

Had the same menu last night (except dessert) and unfortunately won't get to post pics and details prior to your going. Not to give anything away but it was the best meal yet there. you are going to just POP!

No hard liquor allowed.

Welcome to egullet. Stay Hi to Jeff tonight - Just a guess

Evan

[philadining]

Hi Ferky.

Indeed, as wkl said, Shola's very good about the allergy thing, and you shouldn't worry. He usually asks about it at the start of a meal, to confirm. Just to put your mind at ease, mention it to him when you get there, but I'm sure he'll remember. Ironically your menu does seem to have an unusually heavy nut component! But most of those elements can be left off or substituted without a major impact to your enjoyment of the dish. Although you might be out of luck with the sorbet...

And I'll concur about the beer/booze thing too, beer is totally fine, might be very good with certain dishes. And there's no shame at all in just drinking water, I know a few frequent attendees who don't drink, and they enjoy the meal just fine without any wine.

but don't bring gin, I'm sure you'd behave but he's had some bad experiences in the past, so hard liquor is not allowed.

Again, welcome to eGullet, and to the StudioKitchen experience, and we look forward to a report on your evening!

[philadining]

StudioKitchen 17 November, 2005

Aperitif: Charles Heidsick "Mis en Cave 1995" Brut Reserve

Lemon Cured Scallop Sashimi

Fig – Olive Tapenade, Cucumber Sorbet, Lemon Balm, Mint Oil

Chavignol Sancerre "Les Monts Dames" 2002

Saint Peray Rhone 2003

The lemon had just barely started to firm-up the scallop, so it hovered in that mysterious zone between sashimi and ceviche, retaining an ultra-fresh and pure taste, but with a pleasing textural complexity. The olives and figs provided a subtle, low, grounding anchor, while the sorbet threatened to lift the fine dice of scallops off the plate. That clean, fresh, bright flavor of cucumber really made this dish exciting.

This was a tricky one with wine, these two very lovely, elegant whites weren’t quite right here. Shola suggested that Sake would be good, and we actually had great success with an old, sweet Auslese that sadly got lost in the shuffle, so I can’t report on its specifics.

Maine Lobster "Cuit Sous Vide"

Lobster Galette, Piperade Jus, Ginger Leek Confit, Carrot Shellfish Emulsion

Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevreres Domane Remi Jobard 1999

Meursault "En La Berre" Francois Jobard 2000

The lobster was vibrantly full of flavor from its brief sous-vide poach, and the galette was everything even great crabcakes wish they could be! And yet again, despite these luxurious ingredients and perfect sauces, I ended up most transfixed by the lowly leeks, which had transformed into a sweet green hay, delicious on their own, but also a fine terrestrial answer to the flavors of the sea elsewhere on the plate.

Both of these Meursaults were refined and delicious and absolutely perfect with the lobster.

Slow Roasted Pork Belly

Crepinette of Boneless Baby Back Ribs, Cauliflower Cream, Prune and Bergamot Jus

Kistler Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 1998

Nuit St Georges Domaine Henri Gouges 1998

Cote Rotie La Landonne 1997

This pork belly was above and beyond, a crackingly crisp layer on top hiding the melting fattiness below. The prune and fruity jus gave the right acid counterpoint to the extreme richness. This was so intense that it was easy to overlook the little pile of shredded rib meat, which was salty and tangy and every bit as good. The cauliflower puree provided a soothing respite from the fireworks.

All three of these wines were spectacular in their own ways, the Kistler big and loud and forward, the Gouges sitting back, restrained and sophisticated in that Burgundian way, somewhat appalled at the brash antics of its American cousin. It was hard to imagine that these wines were made from the same grape, so different were their expressions. And then an interesting thing happened. Just as a few of us were agreeing about how the French Burgundy outclassed the California version by a great distance, as we started eating this vibrant food, I started liking the Kistler more and more…. This is not a bad problem to have.

Somewhere mid-course, someone opened the Cote-Rotie, which might have been the best match overall, and a wine that just got better and better as the night wore on. By the end of the evening, it remained one of the standouts in a crowded field.

Killing Three Birds with One Stone:

Palmetto Squab, Cocoa Nib Salt, Banyuls Jus

Cherrywood Cold Smoked Scottish Partridge

Foie Gras Ravioli, Truffle Jus

Quail Confit Croustade, Poivrade Sauce

Chateau Lynch Bages 1989

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1986

Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1986

(That's the Squab on the left, the partridge is balanced atop the foie ravioli in the back, and the quail is residing inside the pastry...)

Three little game birds, each with its own character, amplified by distinct preparations and sauces. The squab was relatively straightforward, roasted with a mysteriously-spiced salt, dressed with a dark and intense wine sauce. The partridge had a light smoke that played beautifully off the earthy truffle sauce, the foie gras ravioli upping the ante. But put anything at all inside a bun, or rolled into a croquette, or encased in pastry and I’ll love it more than anything else, so if it happens to be tender shreds of quail, and if the flaky crust is soaking up an herby poivrade sauce… that’s the winner!

And the wine… well, I don’t recall if ALL THREE have 100 point ratings from the Wine Advocate, but I’m pretty confident that two of them do. So the wine cognoscenti think it doesn’t get any better than this, eh? Well, they’re right. Spectacular, all three of them. At first glance I thought they might have been too burly for these birds, but a few years of age have rendered these rounder and softer than I would have expected, yet still packed with bright fruit. So, if you happen to have some of these monsters laying around, bring them by StudioKitchen, they’ll fit right in. I’m afraid it will be a long time before I taste any wine quite that impressive again, but I was grateful to have had the experience.

Truffled Goat Cheese with puréed truffle vinaigrette

A soft, crumbly goat cheese, impregnated with truffle, then doused with a dressing thick with truffle oil, pureed truffles, and any other kind of truffle-ness you can think of. I got a whiff of the pan of dressing and it almost knocked me over, and yet I was instantly imagining all the things that could be improved by a splash of that. The cheese was indeed improved, and with the lemony bite of the greens, made for a creamy, musky, tangy interlude that really got the tastebuds rocking. Pretty good with that little splash of Bordeaux left in the glass too...

Crustless Chocolate Tart, Black Sesame Seed Praline, Espresso Scented Chocolate – Chestnut Sorbet, Black Pepper Orange Streusel

Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1985 1er Cru Sauternes

Chateau Guiraud 1990 1er Cru Sauternes.

An almost perfect chocolate dessert, it was intense and creamy, but with a range of densities between the cake-like tart, the sorbet and the sauce, even a bit of crunch from the sprinkling of streusel. (I only say “almost” after seeing Evan’s malted milkshakes!)

These Sauternes were enjoyed mostly before and after the dessert, there was some nice Port making the rounds as well, which played better with the chocolate. But the Sauternes were quite lovely on their own, the ’85 way more mellow and calm, the ’90 more excitable and sharp. I liked them both.

All these superlatives start losing their effectiveness because we’re throwing them around so often in describing StudioKitchen, but until we find some new ones, they’ll have to do. So in the absence of an innovative new compliment, I’ll just say again, incredibly delicious meal, on a new level, when I was convinced we were already on the top floor.

And sincere thanks to the group of wine lovers who were so very generous with the bounty of their cellars, I hope I can return the favor somehow, or at least “pay it forward” by sharing in kind some day.

Don't count on me having anything this good to drink the next time I book a StudioKitchen dinner, but you can expect me to offer up some seats now and then, when they're mine to offer, hoping to share the experience with people who would appreciate it.

But don't wait for me. Just keep me in mind...

Edited November 19, 2005 by philadining (log)

[shacke]

Went wednesday for another amazing experience at Studiokitchen. Delay in getting posts because of imagegullet problems. Thanks to Jeff for helping with workarounds!

Torchon of Foie Gras and Unagi

Sorrell Salad

Miso Lemon Gelee

Black Bread, Indonesian Long Pepper

Lychee Vinegar Froth

2002 Joel Gott Chardonnay

Great combination and a host of flavors that worked well together. I am a huge lover of foie gras and it was actually nice to have a hunk of foie gras that is not seared once in a while. The eel and liver were rolled together and served like a sandwich between two ever so light slices of ultra crispy black bread. The sorrel salad had a wonderful lemon oil on it.

Truffle Risotto

CrabMeat, Edamame

Almond milk

2002 Domaine Corsin Poully Fuisse

This now takes the place as my favorite thing at SK yet (not withstanding dessert – see below). Great flavors of bright peas and beans, toothsome and wonderfully offset by the softer rice and most robust flavors of a puree of parlsey and edamame that was mixed throughout. Fantastic. Shaved truffles on top lended a Truffley finish that lasted like a great wine on the palate. This is going to get me into the kitchen to try and make at home (good luck).

Wild Striped Bass

Black Truffle- Speck Crust

Chestnut Cream

Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Jerez Sauce

2002 Kosta Browne Kanzler Vineyards Pinot Noir

I love how Shola treats his fish more heartily than many other chefs. Wrapped in a thin layer of smoked ham and truffle, the chestnut cream was phenomenal along side, however delicate. The small heap of mushrooms were woodsy and intensely flavorful. The pinot we had was a great match.

Wagyu Beef 3 Ways

Applewood Smoked Flatiron "Cuit Sous Vide"

Sweet Parsnips, Thyme Oil

Kabocha "Niku Jaga"

Braised Oxtail Ravioli

2001 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon

Oh to choose among three but the sous vide smoked cut was my very favorite and the favorite of most at the table. Shola’s sous vide practice has paid off big time with that one. Unctuous and smoky, on a top of pureed parsnips – can’t get too much better. Others preferred the oxtail as their favorite and I can’t argue. It was winter comfort in a little wrapper. Despite the meatiness of the course, I think the huge cab we drank with it was a bit much for it although it was insanely delicious. Really, these meals are perfectly fine with just water but its fine to being all the bottles.

Chocolate Tasting

White Chocolate Citrus Ganache, Raspberries, Lemon Balm

Chocolate Coffee Sorbet, Candied Chestnut, Cocoa Nibs

Chocolate Amarena Cake, Star Anise Cherry Jus, Pepper Cracklings

Malted Milk Shake, Chocolate Foam

1927 Pedro Ximenez Alvera sherry

Who doesn’t love dessert and Shola knows he was dealing with a chocolate mob when he designed this course. He tamed the wild beasts with a teasingly stout shot glass of a classic malted milk shake topped with the foam I have come to know and love from him. The sorbet was decadently rich and crunchy with the nibs inside. I had thirds from the “bucket”. The ganache, served as a brulee style dessert was a terrific lighter balance of the darker stuff on the plate. The tasting of the amarena cake was more than I could bear – but I did anyway.

It was fun to see the first timers just enjoyng the experience as if they had just stumbled upon some undiscovered treasure chest , somehow kept from the rest of the world. Let’s keep it that way, shall we? Don’t show this post to anyone.

[philadining]

Yo Evan, nice pics!

I'm amazed that he's still standing (I guess Ferky should confirm for us that Shola IS standing at the end of friday night!) 4 StudioKitchen dinners in a row means he's been going non-stop. It's interesting to see how he sometimes does variations on a theme, riffing on the same dishes until he's happy with them, but then sometimes does something completely different. I don't think anything on the menu I experienced was on the one the night before. Some elements of the dessert might have been similar, but that's about it.

As has been posted here many times, I just don't know how he does it: at each visit you think you've had as good as it gets, but next time it gets better...

Edited November 18, 2005 by philadining (log)

[I_call_the_duck]

Philadining, thanks for the pics. It looks like Shola outdid himself again.

any guesses?

←

OK, I’ll play along. I won't even guess at the preparations or the sauces, but I'll try to guess the main components.

←

There definitely looks to be lobster there, and I’d guess that judging by the color that the foam has saffron in it.

←

Is that squab? Three different sauces?

←

CHOCOLATE!! What else was in that sinful looking dessert?

What wines did you pair with this meal?

[philadining]

I edited my post to include the menu descriptions, but excellent guesses!

OK, I’ll play along.  I won't even guess at the preparations or the sauces, but I'll try to guess the main components.

...There definitely looks to be lobster there, and I’d guess that judging by the color that the foam has saffron in it.

Yes, lobster, but carrot gave the color to the sauce.

Is that squab?  Three different sauces? 

Ahh, why have squab when you can have squab, partridge and quail?

CHOCOLATE!!  What else was in that sinful looking dessert?

One of the guests said it was like a Chunky candy bar, remember those? It was way better than that of course, super-intense but not over sweet, both the fudgy-cakey tart and the espresso-chocolate-chestnut sorbet.

What wines did you pair with this meal?

I had nothing to do with the wines this time, and once again had my hands full enough that I couldn't take detailed notes, but there was an outrageous array of world-class wines that night, and despite my recent advocacy of modest, supportive wines, these served as extremely enjoyable pairings, complimenting the food beautifully. I'll post details as I can remember them, I need to consult some photos I snapped!