Wine Spectator- "old meets new in Philadelphia"

[matthewj]

Just read the latest Wine Spectator, I was pleased, and happy to Marc Vetri in the magazine, but I was surprised when I came across the Article by John Mariani. I was hoping to get any opinions about the article.

What you liked, what you did not like. Did you think that he should have added other restaurants? Why? Are you glad the article did not glorify about cheese steaks and pretzels for a change? Do you think he need to add some forgotten restaurants?

Want your input Philadelphia.

[mattkantor]

Im not sure what happened there....I would think a mention of a few other places might have been good. Of course, he mentioned "us", so I can't complain too much. I would think that maybe a mentioning of Amada, Sovalo or the like would have been appropriate.

A nice article on Vetri too. I guess the 9:00pm Monday night table for two thats usually available (the only available opening) will be gone now..

[matthewj]

I liked that he mentioned Francesco, I have always thought he got unfairly panned by the local press. I wish he could have laid off on the Stephen Starr tipper so much. He did not mention any of the old guards. Which I am a little surprised but not too concerned. I am glad that Philadelphia has gotten better press. Congrats on the mention. Keep on doing good work and more will follow

[KatieLoeb]

I would think that maybe a mentioning of Amada, Sovalo or the like would have been appropriate.

Mr. Mariani was in for lunch about 2 weeks ago, which was probably long after his deadline for that article.

[Rich Pawlak]

I would think that maybe a mentioning of Amada, Sovalo or the like would have been appropriate.

Mr. Mariani was in for lunch about 2 weeks ago, which was probably long after his deadline for that article.

←

Ever mindful of the eager PR folk in this city, I'm sure he was visiting for his annual roundup of Best New Restaurants for Esquire magazine in November. Betcha.

[KatieLoeb]

I would think that maybe a mentioning of Amada, Sovalo or the like would have been appropriate.

Mr. Mariani was in for lunch about 2 weeks ago, which was probably long after his deadline for that article.

←

Ever mindful of the eager PR folk in this city, I'm sure he was visiting for his annual roundup of Best New Restaurants for Esquire magazine in November. Betcha.

←

Rich:

I'm certain you're correct. His hosts for lunch were our PR agents.

[philadining]

His hosts for lunch were our PR agents.

very effective way for a writer to keep a low profile!

[Rich Pawlak]

I would think that maybe a mentioning of Amada, Sovalo or the like would have been appropriate.

Mr. Mariani was in for lunch about 2 weeks ago, which was probably long after his deadline for that article.

←

Ever mindful of the eager PR folk in this city, I'm sure he was visiting for his annual roundup of Best New Restaurants for Esquire magazine in November. Betcha.

←

Rich:

I'm certain you're correct. His hosts for lunch were our PR agents.

←

Yech. You can tell his REAL seriousness (as opposed to his willingness to get a comped meal) when he shows up with some chefs and others, and his own credit card, and performs the "Mariani Shuffle", as I like to call it, whereby he orders up a whole mess of food with the help of his fellow guests, and then proceeds to pass each dish around the table so that he is able to sample every one (as is everyone else of course).

It was maybe 1996 or 1997, whenever Brasserie Perrier was brand new, and he took a bunch of us (including the Inky's Micheal Klein and chef Vince Alberici of the Adam's Mark) and after we got the Official Tour from Perrier himself, set to ordering up most of the lunch menu.

As the plate passing commenced, Perrier saunters by and screams "What are you dooeeng?!?!" Mariani explained, and pointed out to Perrier that he was indeed writing up the restaurant, at which point our local Napoleon bowed gracefully and exclaimed "As you wish, John Mariani." A priceless moment.

[KatieLoeb]

That's pretty damned funny. I'm not sure which is more amusing. The idea of Mr. Mariani brandishing his own credit card or Chef Perrier acting obsequious.

[Bobby 2 Shakes]

Yech.  You can tell his REAL seriousness (as opposed to his willingness to get a comped meal) when he shows up with some chefs and others, and his own credit card, and performs the "Mariani Shuffle", as I like to call it, whereby he orders up a whole mess of food with the help of his fellow guests, and then proceeds to pass each dish around the table so that he is able to sample every one (as is everyone else of course). 

It was maybe 1996 or 1997, whenever Brasserie Perrier was brand new, and he took a bunch of us (including the Inky's Micheal Klein and chef Vince Alberici of the Adam's Mark) and after we got the Official Tour from Perrier himself, set to ordering up most of the lunch menu. 

As the plate passing commenced, Perrier saunters by and screams "What are you dooeeng?!?!"  Mariani explained, and pointed out to Perrier that he was indeed writing up the restaurant, at which point our local Napoleon  bowed gracefully and exclaimed "As you wish, John Mariani."  A priceless moment.

←

John Mariani. I have a VHS tape with a show he did with Annemarie Huste in the early 80s called "Crazy for Food." So he's been around a long time. At the risk of sounding obsequious myself, I'd say that his needing to be comped after 20-plus years of critiquing is testament to his honesty. He'd surely have enough money to buy his own meals by now if he were anything less than ethical.

That being said, I marvel at Chef Perrier walking by a food critic's table while they are passing food around and saying "What are you dooeeng?!?!" (perfect spelling allowing for Chef's accent, Rich. You must write a lot of dialogue)

OBSEQUIOUS BIT OFF

Ha Ha! Screw you all, I knew you'd

OBSEQUIOUS BIT ON

Of course, by screw, I mean to place you on a pedestal and rotate you in such a way that all facets of your talent are showcased so that everyone can see them in as complete a manner as possible.