The juice of September

[Florida Jim]

2004 Álvaro Castro, Vinho Tinto (Dão):

I assume this is tempranillo (but don’t know). Straight-forward nose of warm fruit, earth and spice; character driven, slightly rustic palate of the same and a solid finish. Has some concentration, some nuance, some rusticity and some structure – all boding well for a short stay in the cellar. At 13% alcohol and $10, full retail, a very useful bargain.

(I’ll get more of this shortly.)

2002 Roger Champault, Sancerre rouge Côte de Champtin:

One of the most thought-provoking red wines I have had in quite awhile. Translucent with strawberry, herb, chalk, stone and spice on the nose – very complex and it commands my full attention without shouting; the texture is the lightest silk in the mouth and the complexity is amplified, there is a real sense of place and it is beautifully balanced, bright and moderately intense. But it seems to lack concentration and depth – although this is very early in its evolution and these elements may increase with time in the bottle. There is that chalky, herbal tone I often associate with Sancerre blanc and the layers of nuance here are really world class. And only 12.5% alcohol.

As I say, a provocative wine and one worth trying if you see it.

About $20.

2004 Pazo de Monterrey, Monterrei:

35% godello, 65% treixadura, 12.5% alcohol from northwestern Spain; tastes similar to albariño but with rounder melon, mineral-water, sassafras flavors and scents and a very light note of brown spice; lively in the mouth but lacks cut, smoothly textured, mouth-watering finish. This is for drinking today as nothing in it suggests a shelf life.

Lunch with Sam and Jean, friends in from Salt Lake City:

With carrot soup:

2001 Schumann Nägler, Riesling Kabinett Johannisberger Erntebringer:

Slightly sweet and slightly sour; made a good pairing with the soup (also slightly sweet) and had sufficient cut to keep the mid-palate alive.

With gruyere gratin:

2001 Marc Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets:

A bit oaky upon opening, much of the wood integrated over time; bright, viscous, spicey chardonnay with excellent acidity and focus. More oak than I like but not overwhelming by any stretch and nicely ripe and balanced. Seems to have a lot of promise. Even better with the dish.

Best, Jim