Butter - Chicago

[ronnie_suburban]

Stellar post and pics as always, Ronnie.  Can you tell us more about the chicken and lobster dish.  I can't quite make out the how the chicken is done.  It looks like slivers of breast meat?

Also, was this a specially arranged meal, or did you all just order a la carte, with VIP service?

Thanks!

u.e.

←

The chicken was indeed strips of breast meat that, I assume, were cooked en sous vide.

It wasn't exactly a specially-arranged meal but we did let the house know that we wanted the full-size Chef's tasting menu when we set-up the reservation. I believe that's a minimum of 7 courses, with some little extras also included.

=R=

[jesteinf]

Great stuff Ron. I was pretty unimpressed with my first visit to Butter. It may be time for a return.

[Kouign Aman]

? Could the mystery dessert be a malted milk ball ?

[docsconz]

Wow, that looks to have been an extraordinary meal. The reasons for another visit to Chicago are piling up. Next week is the big Anesthesia meeting in Chicago. Unfortunately, it is not my turn to go.

Ron, you mentioned the Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier from Australia. Is this the same Chapoutier as the Rhone Chapoutier? If it is, I didn't realize they are now making wine in Australia too.

[daniellewiley]

Our dinner a few weeks ago was phenomenal as well. We had many of the same dishes that Ron had. I'm so glad he got a great shot of that BLT In Hand - we ate ours too quickly!

My pics are up here with some commentary: Butter Pictures

I'm still working on my writeup, but I'll be sure to share it once it's done.

Edited October 11, 2006 by daniellewiley (log)

[gmi3804]

? Could the mystery dessert be a malted milk ball ?

←

As I was at the table, I can say that these were malted milk ball consistency, but they tasted more like chocolate-flavored rice puffs (think Cocoa Puffs!)

The meal was, indeed, extraordinary. Great write-up, Ron; it brought back lots of sense-memories.

[Mr. Bottisn]

? Could the mystery dessert be a malted milk ball ?

←

Kouign,

The dessert is called "milk and cereal."

Its a raw milk ice cream with chocolate wheat malt perals & cold chocolate cream.

The raw milk comes to us from farmer George Rasmussen of Swan Creek Farm.

Its produced by a 15 year old organic cow named Fatima.

Kriss Harvey's (the pastry chef of Butter) idea of this pre dessert

was to recreate milk and cereal. Having an unflovored ice cream, to show case the raw milk and to pair with the crisp malt wheat.

I love the simplicity of this dessert.

Ryan Poli

[docsconz]

Mr. Bottisn, thanks for the explanation and welcome to eGullet!

[ulterior epicure]

Kouign,

The dessert is called "milk and cereal."

Its a raw milk ice cream with chocolate wheat malt perals & cold chocolate cream.

The raw milk comes to us from farmer George Rasmussen of Swan Creek Farm.

Its produced by a 15 year old organic cow named Fatima.

Kriss Harvey's (the pastry chef of Butter) idea of this pre dessert

was to recreate milk and cereal. Having an unflovored ice cream, to show case the raw milk and to pair with the crisp malt wheat.

I love the simplicity of this dessert.

Ryan Poli

←

Hi Mr. Bottisn.

I'm sad I didn't make it to your restaurant when I was in Chicago last. So many other chefs highly commended it.

At the risk of drawing attention to something that's nothing (or will get you in trouble - which I highly doubt), I'm curious to know how the sale and use of "raw milk" - if I'm not mistaken, is unpasteurized milk - is legal? I assume that the ice cream is a traditional custard, so it has to be heated anyway.

Thanks

u.e.

[ronnie_suburban]

Thanks, chef, for the explanation -- and the great meal.

Welcome to the forum

=R=

[tetsujustin]

Kouign,

The dessert is called "milk and cereal."

Its a raw milk ice cream with chocolate wheat malt perals & cold chocolate cream.

The raw milk comes to us from farmer George Rasmussen of Swan Creek Farm.

Its produced by a 15 year old organic cow named Fatima.

Kriss Harvey's (the pastry chef of Butter) idea of this pre dessert

was to recreate milk and cereal. Having an unflovored ice cream, to show case the raw milk and to pair with the crisp malt wheat.

I love the simplicity of this dessert.

Ryan Poli

←

Hi Mr. Bottisn.

I'm sad I didn't make it to your restaurant when I was in Chicago last. So many other chefs highly commended it.

At the risk of drawing attention to something that's nothing (or will get you in trouble - which I highly doubt), I'm curious to know how the sale and use of "raw milk" - if I'm not mistaken, is unpasteurized milk - is legal? I assume that the ice cream is a traditional custard, so it has to be heated anyway.

Thanks

u.e.

←

It's only illegal if you get caught.

But yeah, you're not supposed to be able to buy or sell unpasteurized milk which is also why many of our good cheese here are so different (and I would say not as good) as a lot of the cheeses from Europe. I've used it previously in a restaurant and even uncooked, the probablity of someone getting sick off of it is pretty low. The use of it is so nice though, unlike any milk you'll ever get because of it's creamier texture and also because you can actually almost taste the terroir of the animal it came from from the milk.

Great looking preparation though, I needa get back to Chicago.

[bushey]

While I've been struggling to put into words how fabulous my meal at Butter was, and being pokey because *life* got in the way, I find that ronnie's post just about sums up my recent experience, as well. And the photos are phenomenal. Everything really did look that good.

My daughter and I had a fabulous meal at Butter on the eve of her starting her sophomore year as a transfer student at University of Chicago. From our warm welcome at the front desk to the warm goodbyes, we had just a phenomenal evening.

We opted for the five course tasting menu, knowing that it would definitely be enough food for our appetites, and it was beautifully orchestrated. Almost every amuse or course was a winner, and there were some lovely surprises. I drank a lovely split of Moet and Chandon Nectar Imperial during the early part of our meal, and a glass of The Poet Meritage with the later courses.

The highlights: Risotto with fresh corn and shaved summer truffles. This was quite possibly one of the best things I've ever tasted. The dish is shaped like a flying saucer and when we leaned over to inhale the aroma, it was like heaven. As soon as I took a bite a little voice in my head said "This is the best thing you’ve ever put in your mouth". When our server asked if we liked it, we went into a discussion of how good it was, how the crisp, sweet bites of corn were delicious, the rice perfectly cooked, etc. He was quite happy, since it's a favorite of his as well, and he told us that it was one of the first risotto dishes Chef Poli ever created and this was like going back to his roots.

I guess the kitchen was pretty happy with our reaction, because before we knew it Chef Poli appeared at our table with a little treat: guacamole shooters. Yes, the very same “chips and salsa” that Ronnie mentioned in his post. Two cordial glasses were filled with an avocado-cilantro soup, topped with tortilla chip foam. There were little bits of tomato in the bottom of each glass. The flavor was very fresh and bright, and the foam itself tasted exactly like tortilla chips. Even though it was, well, foamy, it gave the impression of being crispy. Loads of flavor and fun, served by the dashing chef himself – doesn’t get much better.

Or does it? Actually, each succeeding main course wowed us completely. We also had the crispy bass dish. I’m not generally a lover of bass, but the mushroom fricassee/gnocchi/garlic scape/butter emulsion was unbelievably scrumptious. Those gnocchi floated [handmade by Chef Santos himself]. The dish grew on me -- .each forkful tasted a little like the sea, a little like the earth. Both of us used crusts of bread to wipe the sauce from the dish.

Intermezzo: passion fruit sorbet with cucumber. Who would have thought this combination could be so delicious?

My daughter’s favorite dish was the duck sheperd’s pie with potato foam. The foam was incredible, the duck confit rich and salty and the cherry sweet. She finished the whole thing, while I was starting to worry if I was going to make it to the end of the night.........so, I left a little bit on the plate to save myself. We loved the presentation, and I thought the pain perdu and duck breast was a great riff on french toast and bacon.

Next up was my 2nd favorite of the night: Kobe sirloin with Kobe short-rib ravioli. The sirloin was so flavorful and there was a great texture contrast with the ravioli. Actually, the ravioli reminded me of a traditional Jewish soup dumpling, or kreplach. Nice silky dough and rich shredded meat inside. We dubbed the bordelaise sauce "deconstructed" and found it a nice balance to the richness of the dish.

The beginning of the dessert parade portion of our evening: buttermilk panna cotta with concord grape and celery coulis. Smooth + cold + tangy + sweet + crunchy = YUM.

Granny Smith apple puree with lemon verbena ice cream and candied walnuts was only so-so. The flavor of the apple puree was pretty lackluster,

Hazelnut pancakes with apple caviar and maple ice cream was fabulous. The golden apple caviar was genius, and the play on blinis with caviar and sour cream was fun. Plus, we both love real maple syrup and the ice cream was nicely sweet without being cloying,

Final dessert was also a winner: Sicilian pistachio mousse with candied rhubarb, strawberry and raspberry vinegar and hot/sweet pepper sorbet and smoked pepper tuile. Once again, there was the interplay of intense flavor in the mousse that defied texture – even though it felt smooth in our mouths we could practically feel the texture of fresh, crisp pistachio nuts. The sorbet tasted almost exactly like red pepper jelly, a condiment we both like, We were served complimentary glasses of Bonny Doon ice wine that married well with the rest of the flavors.

We had the distinct pleasure of popping into the kitchen briefly to thanks the Chef Poli and his crew for a wonderful evening, and they could not have been more warm and gracious. Chef Poli teased my daughter a little about the food she’d be eating on a regular basis as a college student and said he hoped we’d return.

We definitely will, with Dad in tow. And I can’t think of a better place to celebrate said daughter’s 21st birthday next spring than at Butter, with wine pairings.

Edited October 12, 2006 by bushey (log)

[docsconz]

Kouign,

The dessert is called "milk and cereal."

Its a raw milk ice cream with chocolate wheat malt perals & cold chocolate cream.

The raw milk comes to us from farmer George Rasmussen of Swan Creek Farm.

Its produced by a 15 year old organic cow named Fatima.

Kriss Harvey's (the pastry chef of Butter) idea of this pre dessert

was to recreate milk and cereal. Having an unflovored ice cream, to show case the raw milk and to pair with the crisp malt wheat.

I love the simplicity of this dessert.

Ryan Poli

←

Hi Mr. Bottisn.

I'm sad I didn't make it to your restaurant when I was in Chicago last. So many other chefs highly commended it.

At the risk of drawing attention to something that's nothing (or will get you in trouble - which I highly doubt), I'm curious to know how the sale and use of "raw milk" - if I'm not mistaken, is unpasteurized milk - is legal? I assume that the ice cream is a traditional custard, so it has to be heated anyway.

Thanks

u.e.

←

It's only illegal if you get caught.

But yeah, you're not supposed to be able to buy or sell unpasteurized milk which is also why many of our good cheese here are so different (and I would say not as good) as a lot of the cheeses from Europe. I've used it previously in a restaurant and even uncooked, the probablity of someone getting sick off of it is pretty low. The use of it is so nice though, unlike any milk you'll ever get because of it's creamier texture and also because you can actually almost taste the terroir of the animal it came from from the milk.

Great looking preparation though, I needa get back to Chicago.

←

While I do not know the laws in Illinois, in at least a number of states, certain farms can, in fact, legally sell raw milk. In addition raw milk cheeses can be made. They have to be aged for, I believe, at least 60 days. Using raw milk for ice cream probably involves cooking it, so there would be nothing illegal about it, necessarily.

[gaf]

Butter Battle Chicago Review Butter

Three years ago molecular cuisine was but a gleam in the eye of some odd visionaries. Here and there (often here, this being Chicago) was a Grant Achatz, a Homeru Cantu, a Graham Bowles, and at a distance Ferran Adria. These Americans learned from the kitchens of Keller and Trotter (and some stages abroad), but they were creating a singular and off-kilter style in their fits and starts. They were building a new paradigm, just as the eminent historian of science Thomas Kuhn suggested was true for Newton.

Over time - and time shrinks in our media saturated era - the word spreads. Outrageous experiments are tamed and become normal cuisine. The opening of Butter in Chicago reveals, if any additional proof is needed, that the molecular virus is spreading beyond its medicinal quarters.

Butter is a sedate, contemporary, and rather elegant restaurant in Chicago's up-and-coming West Loop area. If local avenues are not yet bustling, they will be. After what was a considered a rough start (with some glowing if not overly helpful publicity in Esquire), Chef Ryan Poli, a native Chicagoan trained at the French Laundry, Le Francais, and La Broche in Madrid, has by recent accounts found his place, and perhaps that place is to be in the spotlight. When it became clear that our table had some claim to culinary sophistication, we were invited into the kitchen to meet the chef (the restaurant was about half filled on this Friday). In my year in New York, such an invitation was a rarity, outside of a few chummy West African establishments. Servers might be trained to avoid patronizing their diners, so they won't be so startled if those at the table are not the farm-fed rubes they might imagine.

I won't proclaim our tasting menu as among the truly stellar meals of the year, but it was an impressive attempt to create a menu that bowed to the creativity of a Cuisine Agape while providing enough Midwest Comfort for those who do not chose to indulge in the aromas of laughing gas. I left persuaded that if high-mid price restaurants like Butter were willing to chance avocado foam and bacon ice cream the experiment had become the establishment. (The five course tasting menu was, if memory serves, $85).

We began with a trio of snacks. Shrimp crisps, potato chips, and popcorn with truffle oil. The popcorn was terrific, stressing that truffles are to be treasured for their aroma, not for their taste, much less for texture. Any film would be recalled as a classic with enough of that corn. The other snacks, adequate, were perhaps not worth the time in preparation.

Our amuse was a quite pleasant sweet potato soup with a brown butter gelee. I wished that even in the small taste Chef Poli had ladled more gelee. It just slipped right down. If the amuse was not as elaborate as some, it did demonstrate that this was a restaurant whose jellied hopes were real.

First course was Tuna Tartare with Avocado, Mango-Yuzu Vinaigrette, and Puffed Rice. If the dish seemed tame if rich in Omega-3s, its pleasures should not be held against this chef. In its architecture, the plate bid us recall that we were experiencing a measured construction. The Mango-Yuzu dressing was sparky, enough to insure that no one would conclude that this tartare was sushi in disguise.

The risotto, bolstered with sweet corn, white truffle oil, and shaved summer truffles, was an exercise in aromatic pleasure. I would have been as pleased without the shaved fungi, but its thin presence demonstrated that the dish was what it claimed for those blessed anosmics. For the rest of us smellers the oil would have sufficed. Perhaps by so much truffle Chef Poli wished to demonstrate his concrete commitment to luxe, but simplicity would suffice.

The main fish course was a Stripped Sea Bass (with modern chefs one should never assume typos - but this striped bass was not stripped of its skin). Notable was the earthy mix of "wild mushrooms": hen of the woods, trumpet mushrooms, and - despite the claim of the kitchen - cultivated shiitakes. Many fish dishes over the years will be recalled longer than this bass - stripped or striped. Yet, the well-cooked fish matched nicely its garlicky broth, garlic scapes (not a typo), and gnocchi. Well-conceived and well-executed it suggested that the kitchen was in secure hands.

As our beef entree we were presented Kobe Beef Sirloin with Glazed Turnips and Carrots, Kobe Short Rib Ravioli, and Bordelaise Consommé. The ravioli brought the plate (slightly) above Kobe routine, but it was not a dish of remarkable vision. Like the bass, it was admirable in its competence, but lacking in the imaginative zest that one might expect from a FL-trained chef.

Throughout we were served a set of amuses, amusing, but apparently Alinea homages. The bacon ice cream exemplified cute standards of molecular cuisine, as did an earlier plate with avocado-cilantro foam, celery confit, and "guacamole and chips". It was in these bits and pieces and in his dessert that Chef Poli most clearly signaled his allegiance to a post-modern cuisine.

Dessert was an Italian deconstruction, a fugue of reds and greens - the most post-modern of the main dishes: Cream of Sicilian Pistachio with Semi-Candied Rhubarb and Strawberries and Sweet and Sour Red Pepper Sorbet. The plate was lite up like a Christmas tree in a Curry Hill diner. The pepper sorbet had the grassy tartness of peppers, but one that I found harsh against the creamy sweetness of the nuts and fruits. Where sweetness was, I was sated, but the deconstructed pieces could not easily be constructed, despite the prettiness of the conceit.

Butter finds a niche slightly below the temples of Chicago cuisine, and this may be proper as Chef Poli weighs his allegiance to Midwestern haute cuisine and to his outrageous brethren. Butter is not yet a destination restaurant, but it is a serious, energetic one. With time, Swanson may produce molecular TV dinners. By then we can think back to Butter and realize that chefs like Ryan Poli helped make these culinary test less fearful, more heartland. Whether we will be grateful as we wolf down Puffed Salisbury Steak with Mashed Potato Foam and Nitrogenated Peas while ogling Rachel Ray staging on Survivor: Joliet, only time will tell.

Butter

130 South Green

Chicago (West Loop)

312-666-9813

www.butterchicago.com

Photos available at:

My Webpage: Vealcheeks

[Mr. Bottisn]

Stellar post and pics as always, Ronnie.  Can you tell us more about the chicken and lobster dish.  I can't quite make out the how the chicken is done.  It looks like slivers of breast meat?

Also, was this a specially arranged meal, or did you all just order a la carte, with VIP service?

Thanks!

u.e.

←

u.e.

it is very important to us at Butter, that when friends or family dine at the restaurant they are offered the same dishes as any of our guest that night.

It would not be fair to our guest to do something special for one table and not offer it to another, that night or even that week.( although it happens ,we try to litmit it as much as possible)

the menu that we served Mr. Suburban was quite special because we were testing dishes that would be on our new fall menu that following week.

we also tested these same dishes to a few other tables that night, who ordered our 7 course menu (the egg set got the most responses.)

Please next time your in chicago, stop by and say hello.

we would love to have you!!

Oh, the chicken is sous vide the lobster is butter poached.

[ulterior epicure]

Oh, the chicken is sous vide the lobster is butter poached.

←

As they should be!!

Thanks for the explanation. I just want to know what diners can usually expect from an experience at Butter. No doubt, they're in for a treat.

[mugsy]

? Could the mystery dessert be a malted milk ball ?

←

Kouign,

The dessert is called "milk and cereal."

Its a raw milk ice cream with chocolate wheat malt perals & cold chocolate cream.

The raw milk comes to us from farmer George Rasmussen of Swan Creek Farm.

Its produced by a 15 year old organic cow named Fatima.

Kriss Harvey's (the pastry chef of Butter) idea of this pre dessert

was to recreate milk and cereal. Having an unflovored ice cream, to show case the raw milk and to pair with the crisp malt wheat.

I love the simplicity of this dessert.

Ryan Poli

←

just curious chef... do you know a good recipe for "authentic" mexican red rice. i heard a rumor that the mexicans like to char the bottom of the pot to get that flavor. maybe with your culinary backround you can help me. and who knows maybe you have made red rice in your past. thanks.

[ronnie_suburban]

Well, unfortunately, the Ryan Poli era at Butter is officially over. I just received this press release:

Chef Ryan Poli, 29, is pleased to announce a culinary move to Scottsdale, Ariz., where he is planning a new restaurant project.

Looking forward to venturing out in a new region, he says, “It is a longtime dream to own my own restaurant, and the timing is right. From a fine dining and resort standpoint, the Phoenix and Scottsdale areas are growing rapidly, and the area is just beautiful. I think this part of the country provides an inspiring environment to open a new establishment, serve great food and continue to grow as a chef.”

The concept, which has not yet been named, will feature the New American cuisine – with strong Spanish and French influences – for which Poli has become highly regarded.

Damn. Chicago's loss is definitely Scottsdale's gain.

=R=

[jesteinf]

That's too bad. I really wanted to go back and give Butter another shot. I had a very disappointing meal there shortly after they opened, but things had obviously improved since then.

[robert40]

Also giving a shout out to my friend Dave hoping the future treats you well.

Edited January 11, 2007 by robert40 (log)

[ulterior epicure]

Best of luck, Chef Poli! I'm sorry I never made it to Butter - but I'll see you in Scottsdale!

[nsxtasy]

Well, unfortunately, the Ryan Poli era at Butter is officially over.

←

Any word on who's taking over?

[chopjwu12]

Man you know i will always land on my feet!!!!!! I'll be cooking in NJ feb 1st and there is nothing in my future i would worry about besides cooking good ass food, and thats all im concerned with.

Edited January 11, 2007 by chopjwu12 (log)

[docsconz]

Gastronomically inclined Phoenicians must be rejoicing now. I would be thrilled if he were in place and open by the time I get to Phoenix this spring. Best of luck to Chef Poli and his new restaurant and best wishes to those who worked with him at Butter.

[ronnie_suburban]

Some additional details, as reported by Chicago Magazine's Dish:

Ryan Poli, the exec chef who had creative freedom at Butter (130 S. Green St.; 312-666-9813), has left to open a restaurant in Scottsdale, Arizona. “They [his new partners] approached me about eight months ago in Scottsdale, and I was reluctant because I didn’t know much about Scottsdale,” says Poli, a Chicago native. “But the city is growing immensely; there is such a demand for great restaurants.” Poli says that before he moves to Arizona, he is “probably going off to Europe for four months to visit friends and get inspired.” And what of Butter? The West Loop spot’s former sous-chef, Lee Wolen (Moto), moves into the top slot and promises to keep Butter’s New American cuisine intact. “This is the chance any young chef waits for,” he says. “And I plan to make it count.”

=R=