Butter - Chicago

[mcattaneo23]

Has anyone eaten at Butter in Chicago recently?? Ryan Poli has an impressive resume and the menu look great, Any information would be great Thanks!!

[jesteinf]

I feel like you can get better food at the price point. There does seem to be a lot of positive buzz, so Butter may just wind up being a restaurant I don't get.

[molto e]

This is a link to my outstanding meal at Butter with photos.

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=80190

Josh based on my meal there, I would give them another shot. Chef Poli is currently in Spain doing a little "fooding research", he will be back next week.

Molto E

[mcattaneo23]

great post, thanks so much...i also enjoyed your Schwa review as well!!!

[ronnie_suburban]

There was a fairly thorough piece, by Michael Nagrant, about Ryan Poli and Butter in yesterday's Chicago Journal:

Ryan Poli, chef of the West Loop’s new hit restaurant, Butter, is exacting. On a recent afternoon visit to Butter, 130 S. Green, Poli was methodically dividing a loaf of bread into identical, quarter-inch slices for a broth that would later be made into buttered toast foam to accompany caviar. Poli could have chopped up the bread into random pieces, but by cutting the bread uniformly, he exposed the most surface area, increasing the flavor in the foam . . .

Blue-collar Butter

=R=

[molto e]

I had the pleasure of experiencing a tasting menu by Chef Ryan Poli. Chef Poli recently returned from a "fooding expedition" to Spain, stopping in Barcelona and Madrid. You have to love a chef that is keeping current with what is going on in some the "hot spots" of avant-garde cooking.

Chef Poli asked if I minded if he tried some new things out on our table so .......

I do not have photos of the meal, because I was experimenting without a flash. I am hopeful that someone else may have photos of the meal!!

Snacks:

Truffle popcorn.

Nori-salted potato chips.

Herbed oyster crackers.

Parmesan crisps

First Amuse:

Candied Olive- individual spoon with a candy coated olive

good start, very interesting definitely something to wake up the palate

Second Amuse:

Four Spoons:

1-Iberian ham and melon

2-deconstructed fried rice-rock shrimp, wok fried vegetables rice foam

3-white anchovy piquallo pepper and apple

4-black pearl italian caviar with toast foam

I loved the presentation using O Luna china that each person gets the four spoons in a contoured holder. I liked the combinations and this got me ready to start the meal

First Course:

Foie Gras: Cipollini onion, brioche, caramel sauce, spicy black pepper reduction

I like the sweet / savory combination of the set and the Foie was perfectly seared.

Deconstructed Tuna Nicoise- Sashimi of Hamachi, tomato marmalade, olive tapenade, haricot vert, quail eggs, potato pearls, herbs, roasted garlic dressing

Chef Poli has a nice spin on the Nicoise salad, in fact it is hard to pass up or pass the plate, if sharing

Second Course:

Short rib ravioli with a lobster and mushroom gratin.

Tasty short rib filling in the housemade pasta

Risotto-Rock Shrimp, Pumpkin, Brown Butter, Sage

This is the first time that I have had the risotto and it is finished tableside with brown butter. Loved it!!!!! I look forward to the next time I dine at Butter to eat this again without sharing.

Third Course:

Duck Shepherd's Pie- Ragout of Duck Confit, Soybeans, Dried Cherries, Encased in Potato Foam

Great spin on the classic dish- nuevo comfort food-love that potato foam

Intermezzo:

Fruit Punch Sorbet Spritzer

This was like a fizzy Hawaiian Punch

Fish Course:

Monkfish- tom kha kai with spinach turnips mushrooms

and lemongrass coconut froth

The monk fish is from Browne trading in Maine and the sauce was delicious

Barramundi-gently poached in olive oil, Artichokes, Peppers, Fennel Puree, Nicoise Olive Dust, Saffron Emulsion

This is a favorite of a friend of mind that eats at Butter regularly and I can see why. The Barramundi is poached so the fish is so tender and then the components of the dish go so well together.

Meat Course:

Duck- Creamy leeks, cassis jellies and with a winter fruit cannelloni

This was a great set: duck prepared nicely, like the creamy leeks and thought the fruit cannelloni was a nice touch

Pork Two Ways- Tenderloin, crispy pork belly, black trumpet mushrooms, cauliflower, fig marmalade and pork jus

The pork was juicy and with the fig marmalade, oh so good.

Venison-butternut puree, caramelized brussles, confit chestnuts, juniper ice cream

black berry gastrique

very nice dish, venison very tender and the accompaniments really accented the venison

chicken and waffles-sous vide chicken with polenta, braised greens , maple reduction,

bacon ice cream and pizzelle cookie

Chef Poli has a way with the sous-vide chicken, very tender and moist. The pizzele cookie was tweaked with a little duck fat and who does not like duck fat. Great dish very creative, the bacon ice cream and the maple reduction were great.

Desserts:

Pre-dessert- This is one of my favs of Chef Poli, mixed berry salad with meyer lemon sorbet encased in vanilla foam

delicious

lemon sabayon tart citrus sabayon creme

great dessert, the lemon sabayon is so light, this is one not to miss

double baked chocolate mousse

with exotic fruit sauce and passion sorbet

good chocolate mousse, passion fruit sorbet was nice

A great meal by a great Chef and I look forward to my next meal at Butter and some more of that risotto

Good Eating,

Molto E

Butter Photos

Edited February 13, 2006 by molto e (log)

[ronnie_suburban]

I had the pleasure of sharing the meal described above with Eliot, Yellow Truffle and our friend Leon. Chef Poli pulled out all the stops for us and provided a tasting menu which included highlights from Butter's current menu and previews of some soon-to-be-added items as well. I don't think that a tasting menu is offered as part of the standard menu, but I got the distinct impression that with just a little bit of advance notice, chef Poli would happily accomodate such requests.

My experience at Butter started out a bit strangely because I arrived way earlier than planned. Of course, I was counting on there being traffic but there was none. As such, I arrived at Butter nearly 45 minutes before our reservation. I really enjoyed the space which has a clubby, contemporary vibe. Touches of color, provided by accent lights throughout the space, create a very calming mood. I sat at the bar with my copy of Charcuterie and was well taken care of. I ordered vodka and lime juice. When I declined the Rose's variety, the friendly barkeep offered to squeeze a bunch of lime wedges for me. When I finished the first one he did it again. And, while I waited for my companions and read, he moved several bar candles closer to me so that I could see what I was reading.

When we were finally all together and had finished our drinks, Butter's affable owner, Jason Chan, made it clear that the bar tab was "on him." Too bad; I would have ordered something way more expensive had I known Just kidding, of course. It was a very nice gesture for him to do so.

The first round of amuses definitely hit their target. Of the lot, I think I enjoyed the Nori-salted potato chips best. But, all 4 were tasty and got the juices flowing.

Next up was the candied nicoise olive . . . tasty and provocative. It reminded me -- at least in flavor -- a bit of Chef Achatz's Nicoise olive "candy bar," served at Alinea. Still though, it took a completely different form. Very nice.

I really enjoyed the 4-Spoons course but I'm not sure I ate them in the intended order. Still, the intense, 1-bite combinations delivered. All 4 were tasty. I especially enjoyed the Iberian Ham & Melon Sorbet as well as the Deconstructed Fried Rice. At this point, we were just barely into the meal and had already tasted 9 different, delicious and provocative cominbations. In this regard, Chef Poli covered a lot of ground very efficiently. We'd heard the chorus but were neither full nor fatigued. Excellent progression.

For the next course, we were served either the Foie Gras or the Deconstructed Tuna (Hamachi) Nicoise salad. Both were tasty but I really loved the foie, which I thought was exceptional. It had an outstandingly-perfect and heavier-than-typical crust seared onto it. The soft but not mushy cippoline onion was a wonderful compliment to the foie. Even in exceptionally well-designed tasting menus, there are always a few dishes which really stand out. These are the ones about which you say to your companions "I wish they'd bring out a dozen of those." Such was the case with the foie gras course. Very delicious.

The next course brought 2 dishes which were among my very favorites of the whole meal. The first was a Risotto with Gulf Shrimp, Pumpkin and Brown Butter. The second was a Short Rib-filled Ravioli with a Lobster and Mushroom Gratin. Both were out of this world. The risotto was masterfully rendered and brown butter was drizzled atop it, tableside by our server. This was rich and satisfying, creamy and delicious. As good as it was, the ravioli may have been even better. The pasta was tender, the short rib filling was hearty and savory and the lobster and mushroom gratin was rich and dense with flavor. These dishes were both memorable show stoppers.

The Duck Shepherd's Pie really showed off both chef Poli's vision and skill. Not only did the flavors compliment each other naturally, but the execution was nearly flawless. The potato foam was unlike any other foam I've ever experienced. It was rich, frothy and creamy -- nearly emulsified but not quite there . . . soft peaks is perhaps, the best way to describe it. In either case the duck, the cherries and the foam all synergized into a very delicious final product.

An intermezzo -- a fizzy passion-fruit punch shooter -- was served next. Delicious and refreshing, it cleared the palate nicely heading into the upcoming round of plates.

Next up was the fish course in which we were served a couple of different dishes. The first was the Olive Oil-Poached Barramundi with Artichokes, Peppers, Fennel Puree, Nicoise Olive Dust and Saffron Emulsion. Wow! I'd never had Barramundi before and this was a great first experience. I loved the plate, with all the different elements and the flavors all accented the tender fish very well. Even more enjoyable for me was the Monk Fish 'Tom Kha Kai' with Spinach, Turnips, Mushrooms and Lemongrass-Coconut Froth. Here I really giggled since the dish was such a loving send-up of the traditional Thai rendition. It also happened to be supremely delcious. Since I'm a big fan of Thai cookery, I really appreciated the homage here. Regardless of the sentiment behind it, the dish delivered in a major way and the Monk Fish was simply outstanding in quality.

The meat course brought 4 more dishes to the table. The first, Duck Breast with Creamy Leeks, Cassis Jellies and Winter-fruit Cannelloni was a neat riff on a familiar 'duck and fruit' combination. The duck and fruit worked very nicely together and the duck was just perfect; rare, tender and juicy.

The next meat dish; Pork Two Ways consisted of Tenderloin and Crispy Pork Belly. These were served with Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Cauliflower, Fig Marmalade and Pork Jus. Again the fruit played nicely with the meat in this plate. The pork, like all the meats we were served, reflected chef Poli's consistency in cooking. This tenderloin, again, was tender, juicy and full of flavor. The belly wa perfectly prepared and full of that unique sticky-fat richness which defines belly.

Next up was the Venison with Butternut Squash Puree, Caramelized Brussel Sprouts, Confit Chestnuts, Juniper Ice Cream and Blackberry Gastrique. This was probably my least favorite of the 4 meat dishes. There was nothing wrong with it but I'm not a huge venison fan. Still, the meat was rare, juicy and very nice. The accompaniments worked well here too. But, with the 3 other meat dishes on the table, this is the one I would be least likely to order again.

The last fourth of the meat quartet was chef Poli's fresh, inspired take on Chicken and Waffles. This dish was comprised of Sous Vide Chicken, Polenta, Braised Greens , Maple Reduction, Bacon Ice Cream and a Pizzelle. To me, this dish sung sweetly. I loved every part of it and I was surprised that I did. Even the bacon ice cream worked perfectly here. The tender chicken, crispy pizelle and creamy-cool bacon ice cream worked wonderfully together here without going over the top. As many times as I've seen failure follow those who make savory ice cream on Iron Chef America, this dish was tasty harmony on a plate.

Desserts were well-conceived and well-executed. Chef Poli's use of Meyer Lemons really pleased me, as I'm a big fan of lemon desserts. On that basis, both the Mixed Berry Salad with Meyer Lemon Sorbet, encased in Vanilla Foam and the ethereal Lemon Sabayon Tart with Citrus Sabayon Creme were wholly satisfying. The Double-Baked Chocolate Mousse with Exotic Fruit Sauce and Passionfruit Sorbet didn't really speak to me. I'm not a huge fan of dark chocolate or chocolate with fruit, so after trying it, I yielded to my companions.

I didn't make note of the specifics but we were also served a selection of wines which were paired specifically with most of our courses. Again, I'm guessing that such a flight could be provided to anyone who asked. These were, for the most part, wonderful. Perhaps Eliot or Anthony will remember the wine details. I hope so, because they really were wonderful and I'd like to be reminded of what we were served with our courses.

Clearly, the folks at Butter are not only talented but also effortlessly accomodating. I don't get out often enough to confirm or deny John Mariani's claim that Butter is one of the 20 Best New Restaurants in the US. But the meal we had there was wonderful and provided many memorable highlights. Chef Poli has a command in the kitchen that is going to make his career one to watch. I get the feeling that Butter will continue to improve as time passes. I look forward to returning there and experiencing it for myself.

=R=

[yellow truffle]

Truffle popcorn.

Nori-salted potato chips.

Herbed oyster crackers.

Parmesan crisps.

Candied olive.

Black pearl italian caviar with toast foam.

White anchovy piquallo pepper and apple.

Deconstructed fried rice, rock shrimp, wok fried vegetables, rice foam.

Iberian ham and melon sorbet.

Foie gras with cipolene onion.

Deconstructed nicoise salad.

Herbs, quail egg, olive tapanade, french beans, sashimi of hamachi, tomato marmelade,

roasted garlic sauce and dots of potato.

Ravioli.

Short rib with a lobster and mushroom gratin.

Risotto.

Rock shrimp, pumpkin, brown butter and sage.

Duck shepherd's pie.

Ragout of duck confit, soybeans, dried cherries, encased in potato foam.

Fizzy fruity punch intermezzo.

Monk fish.

Tom kha kai with spinach, turnips, mushrooms and lemongrass coconut froth.

Barramundi, gently poached in olive oil.

Artichokes, peppers, fennel Puree, nicoise olive dust, saffron emulsion.

Duck.

Creamy leeks, cassis jellies and with winter fruit cannelloni.

Venison, in butternut puree.

Caramelized brussles, confit chestnuts, juniper ice cream and black berry gastrique.

Pork.

Chicken and waffles.

Sous vide chicken, braised greens, on a bed of with polenta, swimming in a maple reduction.

Pizzelle cookie and bacon ice cream.

Vanilla foam.

Fresh berry salad with meyer lemon sorbet.

Double baked chocolate mousse.

Passionfruit ice cream and chocolate tweel.

Lemon sabayon tart with citrus sabayon creme.

[yellow truffle]

Nice write-up Mr. Suburban. I hope that these images aid in creating a visual description of the experience.

[ronnie_suburban]

Nice write-up Mr. Suburban. I hope that these images aid in creating a visual description of the experience.

←

The images are great, as usual. Just look at that silky potato foam atop the Shepherd's pie and the delectable Short Rib ravioli. The pics are reminding me of just how enjoyable the meal was. Thanks for posting them.

=R=

[docsconz]

This settles it. Schwa is now officially on my short list!

[ronnie_suburban]

This settles it. Schwa is now officially on my short list!

←

Well, you'd better add Butter to the list, too

=R=

[yellow truffle]

This settles it. Schwa is now officially on my short list!

Well, you'd better add Butter to the list, too

[docsconz]

This settles it. Schwa is now officially on my short list!

Well, you'd better add Butter to the list, too

←

OOPs! Schwa was already on my short list. Yes, Butter is now too! I am going to have to set aside some time for getting back out to Chicago between these two new ones (for me) as well as a required return to Alinea and a few others as well.

[ulterior epicure]

why is the foie gras black?

[yellow truffle]

why is the foie gras black?

It's actually a black hole.

[ronnie_suburban]

why is the foie gras black?

It's actually a black hole.

←

Actually, it looks purple to me (in the pics) but it was fairly dark at our table. See my description above for a possible, partial explanation . . . the "crust" on the foie was very pronounced.

=R=

[molto e]

why is the foie gras black?

←

I do not wish to speak for YT, but that is the editing software. The foie at Butter perfectly seared and I have had the dish twice. We were in very dim light at the table and YT's editing touch is magnificent to get the photos to this point. I noticed that the Foie looked that way, but that seems to be the only thing that was not reproduced a la natural.

[ulterior epicure]

why is the foie gras black?

←

I do not wish to speak for YT, but that is the editing software. The foie at Butter perfectly seared and I have had the dish twice. We were in very dim light at the table and YT's editing touch is magnificent to get the photos to this point. I noticed that the Foie looked that way, but that seems to be the only thing that was not reproduced a la natural.

←

i suspected it was the result of negotiating (and indeed, sometimes fighting) insufficient lighting... but thought it might be a glaze or some kind of other sauce. sigh, a big down-side to having dimly lit "atmospheric" lighting in restaurants.

u.e.

[edited to add]

why is the foie gras black?

It's actually a black hole.

←

?

Edited February 14, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[molto e]

http://www.jamesbeard.org/events/2006/02/012.shtml

FYI

[chopjwu12]

Ive been accused of some things because of this post therefore ive decided to remove it for the greater good. My most sincere apologies to anyone this has offended or inconvenienced.

Edited September 9, 2006 by chopjwu12 (log)

[ronnie_suburban]

Thanks for the invite, chef Santos.

Ryan and his team have always done great work. As I posted above, our last meal there was fantastic.

I've been trying to plan a return trip to Butter and will do my best to get back in asap, hopefully before the end of the month.

=R=

[daniellewiley]

Just made a reservation for tomorrow night - I'm excited! I'll be sure to report back...

[ronnie_suburban]

Chicago's a tough town. As the city's reputation as a culinary destination grows, the big names in local dining get bigger and the stage has become pretty crowded. Ironically, it's harder now than ever for new arrivals to make their way onto the stage, let alone get noticed. Every once in a while, however, an upstart breaks through and -- while the spotlight shines upon him -- gets his chance to prove that he actually belongs on the stage.

That's what happened to chef Ryan Poli when John Mariani named his Butter Restaurant to Esquire Magazine's 2005 list of the 20 Best New Restaurants in the U.S. In an instant Poli went from virtually anonymous to nationally-known and the small space upon which he stood was immediately in bathed in bright, bright light. In such a moment, one either has game or does not -- and the truth of the matter becomes clear very quickly.

Chef Ryan Poli not only appears comfortable in the spotlight, he seems to thrive there. Rare folk, like Poli, are able to summon up their best when the whole world (it seems) is watching. They exhibit grace under pressure and actually seem to be built for the task of cooking under a microscope.

As much as I loved my previous meal at Butter back in February, I was absolutely blown away by my most recent one, which I experienced last week. Not only is chef Poli still growing immensely as a chef but his confidence is soaring and his team has been tuned-up to a world-class level. This evolution was exhibited most satisfyingly, as plate after plate of gloriously inventive and remarkably delicious food hit our table. I was lucky to get decent shots of most of the dishes we tried . . .

Heirloom Tomato & Watermelon Salad with Basil and Balsamic Reduction.

Also as part of our first course, a couple of us also enjoyed a sublime Tuna Tartare with Avocado, Mango-Yuzu Vinaigrette and Puffed Rice. The opening courses were served with a Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, 2004.

Slow-Poached Egg, with Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto.

This dish was absolutely over the top and extremely delicious. 2 of us were served the version pictured and described above, 2 of us were served an alternate version which, included Cauliflower Puree and Potato Foam instead of the Reggiano and the Prosciutto. It was really had to choose a favorite, as both versions were stellar. The egg dishes were accompanied by an NV Roederer Estate Brut, Anderson Valley.

Brazenly buttery Brioche Sticks which were served with the egg dishes.

Next up was the 'starch' course in which each of us at the table were served a different dish. Like the egg dishes described above, the pastas were phenomenal and it was hard to choose a favorite. Pastas were served with a nicely-balanced Hugel Reisling, Alsace, 2000.

Linguini with Clams and Spanish Chorizo.

Farfalle with Sorrell Pesto and Maine Crabmeat.

Risotto with Sweet Corn, White Truffle Oil and Shaved Summer Truffles.

Risotto with Melon, Prosciutto, Tarragon and Black Pepper.

Next up was a fantastic one-biter -- a playfully delicious mini-BLT . . .

Miniature brioche toast, bacon ice cream, and tomato foam topped with a bit of micro-greens.

When this large piece of liver was displayed at our table, the anticipation level jumped instantly.

"Peanut Butter & Jelly" served with complementary Whole Roasted Foie Gras. This was inventively paired with a Lindemann's Lambic Framboise, Belgium.

These delectable-looking shanks of Striped Sea Bass and Halibut were presented for our approval and then quickly carted back to the kitchen.

Before the 'main' fish course, we were treated to these tender pieces of Halibut Cheek.

Halibut Shank with Pork Belly, Granny Smith Apples, White Bean Puree and Red Wine Vinegar Sauce.

Striped Sea Bass with Wild Mushrooms, Russet Potato Gnocchi and Carlic Scapes.

The fish course was paired nicely with a Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru, Daniel Moine-Hudelot, 1999.

Roasted Duck Breast, Pan Perdu, Pickled Turnips, Plum Puree and Mizuna.

This duck course was immaculate. Just look at that beautiful, crispy skin. And the Pan Perdu was an inspired accompaniment. The dish was paired with a terrific Ferrair-Carano "Sienna" Sangiovese Blend, Sonoma, 2002.

It was quite a bit of food to this point, but not an overwhelming amount. Portions were calculated wisely and while we were filling up, it was a very pleasant ride. And the pacing between courses was perfect. I want to also mention that we were served a few intermezzos along the way that I, unfortunately, did not photograph acceptably. One in particular, the drinkable 'Chips and Salsa,' which was served in a shot glass, was delicious and extremely clever. It really tasted like chips and salsa.

Next up were the entrees . . .

Veal Medallion with Herbed Potato Salad, Maine Lobster and Lobster Froth.

Chicken and Lobster with Almonds, Cauliflower Puree, Mission Figs and Fancy Ravioli.

Kobe Beef Sirloin with Carrots, Kobe Short Rib Ravioli and Bordelaise Consomme.

Berkshire Pork with Creamy Barley, Tobacco-infused Cherries and Guiness Ice Cream.

The entrees were all quite delicious and again, extremely inventive. If I had to choose a favorite, I'd probably select the Veal Medallion but all 4 were terrific. The Kobe Beef and the Berkshire Pork were paired with a Terlato and Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier Blend, Australia, 2004. The Veal and the Chicken were paired with a not-too-oaky Sanford Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills, 2003.

Desserts -- of course 5 different desserts -- hit the table next. First we were all served this beauty . . .

I'm not exactly sure what this was . . . other than remarkably delicious. It was cold chocolate and frozen vanilla with those little crunchy chocolate balls, which were absolutely delicious. I hope that someone else who's dined at Butter recently can fill in the blanks on this amazing confection.

Vanilla Cremeux with 24-hours Oranges, Old School Praline and Caramel Ice Cream. Unfortunately, I waited a bit too long to shoot this and the ice cream started to melt. No worries, though, because it was terrific anyway.

Pear and Pumpkin Seed Crumble with Oragnic Sugar Cane Ice Cream, Pumpkin Caramel and Date Puree.

Vacherin of Passion Fruit and Coconut.

We also enjoyed a Cream of Sicilian Pistachio with Semi-Candied Rhubarb and Strawberries and Sweet & Sour Red Pepper Sorbet but I just don't have an acceptable shot to share. With the desserts we were served 2 pairings: Bartenura Moscato, Italy, 2005 and Bonny Doon Muscat, Vin de Glaciere, Santa Cruz, 2004.

All in all, this meal at Butter was one of the most satisfying I've had in a long time. The kitchen was firing on all cylinders and I just could not get over how fantastic the progression of dishes was -- not only are they delicious, inventive and beautiful but they are also executed in near flawless form. The group of chefs assembled by Chef Poli is as solid as they get. The experience they collectively bring to the table is worldy, to say the least. The foams, purees, emulsions produced by this kitchen are textbook. The pastas are pristine. The meats are perfect. The sauces are phenomenal. Our dinner was a fantastic experience in a gorgeous space with thorough, professional and friendly service. But, from beginning to end, the experience is founded on the skills and the vision of chef Ryan Poli. His imagination communicating with that of the diner -- in the language of food -- is simply put, an experience not to be missed.

=R=

[ulterior epicure]

Stellar post and pics as always, Ronnie. Can you tell us more about the chicken and lobster dish. I can't quite make out the how the chicken is done. It looks like slivers of breast meat?

Also, was this a specially arranged meal, or did you all just order a la carte, with VIP service?

Thanks!

u.e.