Deep-frying dilemma

[Chufi]

On Saturday, I am planning to make (for the first time) the traditional Dutch sweet pastry for New Years Eve: oliebollen.

Tennis-ball sized lumps of a rich yeasted dough, flavored with candied citron, currants, raisins and apple, are deep-fried and served dusted with powdered sugar. Mountains of these are consumed on New Years Eve.. and when properly made, they are delicious.

I have my grandmothers recipe before me and that's what I'm going to use. The question is, what I am going to deep-fry them in.

Most people nowadays fry in sunflower oil, but when my mother made them (20 years ago..) she fried in a mixture of lard, oil and butter. But sadly, no-one in my family remembers the proportions of the 3.

I really want to make these the oldfashioned way because they tasted soooo good. They used to have a darkbrown crust that was very dry, not at all oily or fatty, and a moist juicy interior. I have tasted so many bad oliebollen (even ones bought from reputable bakeries) that I am worried that when I fry them simply in oil, they will end up like oil-sponges.

So I guess my question is has anyone ever deepfried in a mix of lard, oil and butter? What would be good proportions of the three?

And if I decide to deepfry in just lard, will that leave a very pronounced taste on the sweet pastry?

[Gifted Gourmet]

I don't know anything about the oil here, Klary, but you did send me to find out more about oliebollen ... and, in case anyone else finds it as interesting as I do, check out this webpage on these treats!

webpage for oliebollen

These humble, knobby little cakes, deep fried until golden, then tossed with sugar, epitomize the spendthrift nature of holiday fare: they require ingredients that must have taken my Dutch peasant ancestors a year to save for. And like other holiday dishes, oliebollen are complicated and sensitive to skill, so that the maker really does appear to be weaving a spell for the year to come."....Marina Wolf

[bleachboy]

Sometimes when I make french fries at home, I use Cooks Illustrated's suggestion, which is to just add a few tablespoons of lard (or duck/goose fat) to a normal frying oil (I usually use canola or just plain "vegetable oil"). It really doesn't take much to add an extra note of flavor.

I'd suggest filling your frying receptacle with the oil of your choice, then adding maybe 1/4 cup each of lard and butter. I don't think you can go wrong that way.

That said, I have also deep-fried in 100% animal fat with good results, so I think you can go as crazy as you like with the lard. I might go easy on the butter, though, as it seems like it would have the tendency to burn and give your doughballs a bitter taste.

[Chufi]

I don't know anything about the oil here, Klary, but you did send me to find out more about oliebollen ... and, in case anyone else finds it as interesting as I do, check out this webpage on these treats!

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Thanks for the link Melissa. I have done some googling myself in the meantime.. and found out that indeed, in the past, these fritters were often fried in lard.. especially by poor people who could not afford oil. But then the fritters were called "reuzelbollen" (lard balls) rather than oliebollen.

I'd suggest filling your frying receptacle with the oil of your choice, then adding maybe 1/4 cup each of lard and butter.  I don't think you can go wrong that way.

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Thanks bleachboy.

I think that's what I will do. I am really hoping the lard will add some of that flavor I remember from my childhood.. but these things are tricky!

[andiesenji]

It is okay to add lard to the oil. However butter contains some water and solids that can cause some problems with grease popping unless you melt the butter first and use just the liquid (drawn butter).

Do NOT add solid butter to hot oil.

You have to make sure to have the oil hot enough to cook the pastry without it absorbing oil.

Test on a cube of fresh bread before you begin frying the pastries.

When I lived in Wisconsin my stepdad's sister fried Oliebollen in a mixture of Crisco and lard, half and half. The Crisco can take higher temperatures than pure lard and the outisde of the pastry was crisp and the inside was puffy and light.

[Chris Amirault]

I'll second what Andie wrote. The texture/absorption issue is more dependent on temperature than type of oil; you'll probably want the fat at 350F or a bit more, I'd think. The lard and butter are primarily flavor components, though adding a significant proportion of butter may cause your smoke point to be too low.

And you'll provide your grandmother's recipe in RecipeGullet, yes? With lots of photos, of course? So we can all give it a go, yes?

[plk]

You can deep fry in clarified butter without worrying that the solids will brown or burn.

[Chufi]

And you'll provide your grandmother's recipe in RecipeGullet, yes? With lots of photos, of course? So we can all give it a go, yes?

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There'll be a full report in the Dutch cooking thread.. my way of celebrating the New Year with you all!

You can deep fry in clarified butter without worrying that the solids will brown or burn.

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I'm pretty sure my mom never clarified her butter (or would know what that is, or how to do it). I'm seeing her tonight though and hope to get some last minute tips and trick from her!

[Chufi]

Thanks for the input everybody. I ended up deep-frying in a combo of 2 liters of sunflower oil and about 250 grams of lard. I just was too scared to put butter in the frying pan

The end result was delicious though and tasted just like the ones my mom made.. you can see the results here