Three for my life list

[Florida Jim]

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées VV:

While sitting around with friends, the fanciful question, ‘which wine do you most enjoy drinking’ came up. Of course, the question is couched in purely subjective terms; it asks only one’s personal favorite. And, fortunately, I could open one of these and show them much more than any imagined preference.

If there is any other wine that shows this well and captures so much of what I love about wine, I would dearly like to know its name. Certainly, this will age but I know that every bottle I open (at least up ‘til now) will be so thoroughly delicious that it will be very difficult to reach for anything else.

Clear as spring water; a pure, beautifully etched nose and palate with depth, texture, complex flavors and great balance. ‘Goes with almost anything.

My desert island wine . . .

2004 Martinsancho, Rueda:

Ángel Rodríguez does it all, except the harvesting. He uses only methods handed down for generations in his family, is uniquely in touch with his land and remains utterly untouched by modern techniques. This is verdejo as few others can produce.

Very aromatic and deeply flavorful with peach, white pepper and ripe apple notes; lively and complex at the same time; a bone dry but endless finish; outstanding concentration and balance. World class.

The man is a legend, as is his wine.

2002 Dom. de la Sansonnière (Marc Angeli), Anjou La Lune:

An odd, almost matte color – a sort of burnished copper, as though someone had just cleaned a very old copper pot; sweet pineapple, mineral aromatics with hints of cherry, quince and hay, very fresh smelling; remarkably integrated palate with flavors that echo the nose and add notes of black pepper and stone; long, balanced, smooth and beguiling finish. Ethereal juice and distinctive chenin.

Several years ago I received a bottle of this wine (an earlier vintage) as a gift from a friend; I had never heard of it and was only learning about the Loire. I have not forgotten either that wine or the generosity of that man. Thanks Nick.

Best, Jim