WTN: Old Rioja

[LOS]

We finally managed to pull off the Rioja tasting I've been planning since spring. Jay Miller was here from NYC; all the rest were locals. There were 12 of us in all; pours were 2oz, and I think that was about right. This was a really impressive tasting; there we no clunkers or off bottles other than three corked wines, all of which showed good stuffing.

Aperitif

1996 Gramona Brut -- Very few bubbles (bad cork?) but great stuff; very intense.

With Salad

2002 Gramona Gran Cuvee Brut -- I've really liked this in past vintages, but this bottle seemed sweet and simple after the 1996 (which cost 4x as much).

With baked halibut, crusted with cream cheese and bread crumbs

2003 Do Ferriero Albarino "Cepas Vellas" -- Made from famously old vines, this is the best bottling of Albarino I've ever had. Rich rich rich but still good acidity. Minerals and peaches.

1976 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Gran Riserva blanco -- stole the show from the impressive Do Ferriero. Rich and honeyed with apricot fruit. A great match with the halibut.

With a spanish recipe of snails & mushrooms: 70s Lopez di Heredia wines

1978 LdH Bosconia GR -- needed time, was better with an hour's air. Lots of stuffing here.

1976 LdH Tondonia GR -- showy straight out of the bottle, orange peel, caraway notes, cherry fruit and good acid structure

1976 LdH Bosconia GR -- corked!

With Quail: 70s CVNE Vina Real Gran Riservas, all showed a similar orange peel/cherry profile

1976: very tight, opened a bit after an hour or so

1975: more delicate, lovely out of the bottle, a bit earthy in a good good way

1970: one of the 2 contenders for WOTN. Took half an hour or so to open, but it was really quite lovely

With lamb: wines from the 60s

1968 Bodegas Palacios Rioja Glorioso Gran Riserva. Great straight out of the bottle. Lovely complex nose.

1964 LdH Bosconia Gran Riserva: Candied and sherry-like. Not my favorite, though Jay swears it will taste just like the '42 in another 20 years.

1964 Pavie St Emilion: Showed very litte out of the bottle, put on weight for an hour (after which everyone had drunk up). At that point, it was quite nice -- some even said in contention for WOTN (though I didn't think so).

With cheese: older wines

1952 CNVE Vina Real GR: Corked! But good stuffing; I think intact bottles of this can yet age.

1942 LdH Bosconia GR: Ethereal. Wow this was good. Absolutely worth every penny of its price.

1935 Glorioso: THis had that stunning well-aged-wine nose...for about a minute and a half, then the unmistable scent of TCA came on and just got stronger and stronger. Would have been in contention for WOTN.

With manchego, fig paste, and pecans

1913 Riserva Velha Barbeito Malvasia Madiera: pecan notes to the wine, quite nice, a great match with the dessert.

[Schneier]

I agree with Lee; it was a really impressive tasting.