Mistral French Bistro in Vancouver Opens

[bills]

Jean-Yves Benoit's history includes stints at El Bulli in Spain, Arpege in Paris (both with 3 Michelin stars) and the Hotel Negresco’s Chantecler restaurant in Nice, the 5 Sails at the Pan Pacific in Vancouver, l'Emotion (their own restaurant in West Vancouver, since sold) and Mistral is their new home.

This is sort of a combination of wine notes and restaurant review as we had dinner last night at a pre-opening event at Mistral French Bistro, which opens for business September 8th at 2585 W. Broadway in Vancouver (right at the northwest corner). It is run by Jean-Yves and Minna Benoit.

I got there early to take a look around – they have completely redecorated the interior to reflect a sort of Provencal Bistro style, with bare wood tables, nice artwork and bright young wait staff willing to please. I spoke with Rob Feenie when I was walking to the restaurant (I’m attending a Lafite vertical at Lumiere in a couple of weeks) and he sent someone down with a gift of some chocolate goodies made in-house, a nice gesture.

We started out with a local wine (the wine list is compact but well thought out with many small production BC wines included).

2004 La Frenz Viognier – I’ve a half case of this but haven’t got around to pulling any corks yet, so it was interesting to try this again. Papaya and banana hints in the nose, crisp and clean with decent length.

with:

Trio of Duck – Rillettes, Paté in crepine and Smoked duck breast garnished with cornichons and onion confit. The coarse paté was very country French, the smooth rillettes very tasty and two slices of rich red duck breast were redolent of smoke.

SWMBO had:

Warm Roblechon cheese on crouton with proscuitto, mesclun salad and fresh pears, which she declared to be quite good.

Next up, to match the main course:

1997 Ch. de St. Cosme Gigondas Cuvee Classique – dark wine with a knock-out bouquet of sweet plums, leather, pepper and mushrooms. It just sort of leaps out of the glass at you. When I finally stopped just sniffing this and tasted it, I found that the tannins were abundant but softened, the wine quite full in the mouth and with really excellent length, slowly tapering off with little hints of spice an anise. Almost dislocated arm trying to pat own back at foresight in having tossed a couple of cases of this into the cellar. If you have it, it drinks well now and should continue to do so for the next half dozen years or so.

With:

Duo of Beef - Pan seared beef tenderloin with creamy green peppercorn sauce,

Steak tartar with mesclun salad and Mistral French fries – oh YES!

Meateaters delight! First, it is unusual to order beef and actually get it cooked the way you ask for it. For that reason I usually ask for it to be done ‘bleu’, in the (usually vain) hope that it will show up with at least some pink in the middle. In this case, I got it – bleu! And you could almost cut it with a fork, and it was napped with a creamy and not too assertive peppercorn sauce (easy to overdo that and wind up with you own little pot au feu happening in your mouth.)

Second, to accompany this with a small cylinder of tartare, cut on the slightly coarse side with a piquant mustard incorporated was delightful, and the hand cut frites were of variable size and just as you’d get them in a French Bistro, served on the side.

SWMBO had:

Casserole of lamb shoulder, duck leg confit, lamb sausage and white navy beans – the sausage (not made in house, I think) interesting, the lamb falling apart and the duck perfectly done. Very good.

We finished the Gigondas with a cheese plate (generous portions) and for she-who-must-be-obeyed, a round of fresh apple tart with praline ice cream.

A promising start without many of the usual first night jitters. I intend to return and work my way through the menu, no matter how long it takes me. I have already spoken to Jean-Yves about remedying the lamentable absence of foie gras at present on the menu and he promises it will soon appear as a daily special.

[appreciator]

Thanks for this review.... sounds like a welcome addition to an already vibrant foodie part of West Broadway.

[jamiemaw]

We had a delightful meal there last night. The spinach véloute (with chevre foam) and daube de boeuf were revelatory. More Friday in the Globe.

Edited September 11, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[pissaladiere]

I can't wait to try this restaurant. I had one of my most memorable dining experiences at their old digs, Emotion in West Van. I checked out their menu on-line and it is so similar to many of the excellent bistros that we dined at in the South of France. Pissaladiere, brandade de morue, duck confit, daube de boeuf-sounds like heaven to me. I love the name too. Mistral is a very strong wind that blows through Provence. I have a birthday coming up and had already made lunch reservations at Bacchus Bistro at Domaine de Chaberton in Langley. Now, I'm tempted to change our plans and try Mistral.

[audball]

We plan to eat there tonight? Does anyone know the phone number so I can make reservations. Thanks!

[tarteausucre]

604-733-0046, address 2585 West Broadway

Please do report back

[lauraf]

We had an outstanding meal on Thursday night, the night after they opened. The spinach veloute with chevre foam was, as Jamie mentioned, outstanding. And while they were only half full, the service didn't miss a beat, and Minna was as ever the charming hostess.

We will be back, frequently.

[bills]

Went back last night.

The spinach soup is indeed worthy and the free range roast chicken breast with morels is moist and tasty as well.

They have a menu up at www.mistralbistro.ca

[nwyles]

Nice piece in the Globe today by one James D. Maw. It would appear tha A. Gill is in Hogtown on the red carpet, leaving Jamie in charge of the Globe by himself.

Nice to see the Benoit's move to the center of town where Jean Yves's food can be located with ease. I can't wait to get there.

Is this a smooth opening or a reopening ? No missed steps ! Nice.

[transfattyacid]

Just got back from celebrating our wedding anniversary at Mistral .

And excelent it was too .

The food was very good. My Pissalidiere was served with a healthy amont of anchovy on a base not of puff pastry as i have eaten it else where, but a very thin crisp dough of some discription.

My wife enjoyed her Salade frisse au crouton et lardons, having just watched a french cookery show that featured a dish of a similar nature.

For main course i ordered :- Sausisse de cochon aux lentilles vertes du Puy braisées, boudin noir et pommes pochées. which was fantastic and just what i fancied .

Sûpreme de Poulet rôti aux morilles àla crème, was consumed with great pleasure by Wifee.

Tarte fine au pommes & Clafoutis of wild blueberries to finish a lovely meal.

I was very pleased to see the daily specails which included beef tripes. Which i would have ordered as my main course if this meal was a different occasion to our wedding anniversary. and indeed having tripe on the menu is a nod in the right direction where i`m concerned, and a bold statement of intent.

Welcome to the Peoples Republic of Kitsilano, Minna & Jean Yves.

If there is to be anything said about the service then the word honest springs to mind , there were a couple of faults, but the service staff, Minna included, realised that we were perhaps sitting in a twilight zone, and acknowledged that we may have been over looked, but for this occasion it worked out for the better as we were in no hurry whats so ever.

The biggest distraction of the evening and this is absolutely out of the benoit`s control. was the table next to us, inhabited by one very obnoxious greying male of maybe West Van origin, with his 50something "wife " whos sole purpose in life was to show the world how utterly wrong a plastic surgeon can be, whilst wearing the most offensive perfume known to man.

All in all Mistral is a delight and a very welcomed addition to the `hood.

We will return to enjoy more. and soon hopefully

[jamiemaw]

Transfattyacid, in another thread, said of Mistral, ' . . . it is in my eyes the most significant restaurant opening this year (thus far).'

Bold statement. He also mentioned that 'I believe not enough has been said about this place, here on eG or in the media.'

I don't disagree, with the latter statement at least, and just thought I'd throw this thread back up to the top to see if anyone else has enjoyed it as much as we have.

After several visits, the test is that it's tough to decide just which rusticated entrée might claim your attention tonight:

• Daube de boeuf ($19)

• Cassoulet Castelnaudary ($22 - lamb shoulder and duck leg cinfit with lamb sausage and white navy beans)

• Grilled tombo à la Provençale ($21), with Niçoise olives, zucchinis, thyme and fennel;

• Blanquette of roasted chicken breast in a morel-laden cream sauce ($22)

• Rib eye au poivre ($25) that was an outright bargain.

The spinach velouté ($7.50), mentioned previously, is capped with a chèvre foam and is worth the journey.

Any (recent) takers?

Edited October 16, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[Little Frog]

I had a look at the menu tonight and was very pleased to see so many Provencal classics. Daube! Pissaladiere! It is like being back in my hometown near Nice!

We will be having dinner there next Thursday and I am very much looking forward to it. I was fortunate enough to enjoy a few dinners at Chantecler in Nice in the late 90's but I have no idea who the chef was back then... it would be a funny coincidence if it was Jean-Yves Benoit!

[bills]

I'll be eating there on Thurs. as well.

Should start deciding now what to try next.....

[transfattyacid]

• Cassoulet Castelnaudary ($22 - lamb shoulder and duck leg cinfit with lamb sausage  and white navy beans)

I`ll have one of Castelnaudary`s finest please if any one could be kind enough to upload a portion.

* wonders off scheming of reasons to take the missus out *

ps, nice bump Mr Maw

[Ling]

Walked by Mistral tonight at 9pm. It was packed. I haven't been yet, but it's right at the top of my to-try list.

[jamiemaw]

• Cassoulet Castelnaudary ($22 - lamb shoulder and duck leg cinfit with lamb sausage  and white navy beans)

I`ll have one of Castelnaudary`s finest please if any one could be kind enough to upload a portion.

←

And here's why $22 is quite a steal. I think it's called patience. Or ingredients of heart-breaking majesty, skill, muti-part cookery, patience, assembly and a hell of a lot of washing up.

Edited October 16, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[seanw]

I have enjoyed two dining experiences at Mistral recently. I thought that Minna Benoit handles the FOH expertly(intelligent wine list to boot) & provides the confidence that a positive experience will ensue.

Decor is comfortable & relaxed.

Food- I think for the price the food is very good, a fine sensibility of balance & technique ensures that the food is honest & flavourful. With such pricing obviously the quality of ingredients are somewhat compromised but this is understood & what Jean yves produces makes for a great neighbourhood bistro(thankfully close to home)

Standout was the all pervasive molten chocolate dessert that beats all Vancouver restaurants i have tried, faultlessly executed. Aforementioned duck trio was served at the right temperature(v. important & common mistake-along with seasoning) & good fat content to ensure a rich silky mouthfeel. A tasting of mediterranean appies were less successful, too many salty items(anchovy dip, tapenade, salt cod brandade) the excessive saltiness just deadens the palette after a number of mouthfulls imho. The tapenade in itself was excellent, rich & creamy with great depth-good olives here!. The brandade was poor, i will leave it at that.

Cassoulet was well prepared & executed, with really deft seasoning. Chicken breast with morels was adequate, the chicken being slightly dry & bland(not the best chicken i think, but remember at such price points it is unlikely to be the best!) the sauce was traditional & flavourful, fresh herbs would of been a welcome addition for me.

Overall a really pleasant experience, the room was busy but well maintained. Surely this place will do well in the hood, Minna was hoping not to advertise(hopefully not another'best kept secret') . They deserve to succeed on the quality of the product they offer.

[Peter Rodgers]

Made my first trip to Mistral last night, with very satisfying results. It was a quiet night, which was a plus in terms of service and a minus in that it brings out the basic drabness of the restaurant (lively bar and different lighting desparately in order). But any problems with the architecture seemed irrelevant once the food began arriving (preceeded by excellent bread -- always a good sign). For a starter, I tried the honey mussels in curry/safron cream; it is a real home run. The quality of the mussels was extraordinary and the combination of fish and sauce worked very well. I took an earlier recommendation here and ordered the poulet with morrel cream sauce (not so rich as to warrant the "two cream sauce" warning) and frites for my main dish. The fries were the real thing; I thought the chicken breast was a bit dry, but otherwise the dish was solid and authentic. Finally, I gave in to Mistral's lemon tart. Would have been worth the rip, even if everything else went wrong. The restaurant has assembled a short wine list that needs work, especially at the bargain end, but there should be plenty of time for stocking more choices. Mistral has a very promising future, I think.

[Little Frog]

Went to Mistral last night and had a very enjoyable dinner.

My friend and I had a nice chat with Minna Benoit. By a funny coincidence, we were a Finnish/French table in a restaurant run by a Finn and a Frenchman, so we both got a chance to practice!

For starters, my friend had the pissaladiere.

It had been years since I last had this typically Nicoise onion tart and I must say that this was the best one I ever sampled.

The crust was extremely thin, much thinner in fact than what one would usually get in Nice. I thought it was a smart decision: the crust is not too filling and just acts as a backdrop for the intense flavours of the olive oil-glazed onions and the anchovies. Said anchovies were just perfect, without any of the overwhelming saltiness they can sometimes impart to a dish.

Needless to say, I highly recommend this appetizer!

I had the duck platter: rillettes, crepine, magret and foie gras garnished with small radishes and real cornichons. Certainly not a low-fat choice, but who the hell cares, especially when there is foie gras and magret to be had?

It was nice to see a crepine, a technique seldom used nowadays, even in France.

The magret was smoky and had a very nice mouthfeel. The foie gras was smooth, flavourful and nicely spiced (was it a hint of cracked black pepper that I could taste?)

The only thing I did not enjoy as much was the rillettes, but it is only because I am particular with the texture of my rillettes. I prefer them chunky with lots of meat in them and these were definitely on the smooth side. Very nice flavour though and the bread I spread them on was excellent too.

For mains, my friend had the pistou pasta: it was redolent of garlic and basil, cooked just right, as were the prawns that went with it. Very well executed.

I had the steak tartare. I much prefer my tartare to be served with the condiments on the side; this one came already seasoned and it lacked a little bite for my taste but it was quite enjoyable all the same. I really appreciated that the beef was cut, not ground, it made for a wonderful texture. The frites were excellent, as was the mesclun salad.

Neither of us is a very heavy drinker, so we just had a glass of Burrowing Owl Merlot with our dinner.

No room for dessert after all that wonderful food. Portions are definitely not Nouvelle Cuisine-like!

We will be back, there are too many tantalizing options on the menu to explore!

[canucklehead]

Went by for dinner last night and I really enjoyed it. Great food - bright flavors, top notch ingredients, great execution. Minna and the FOH were very friendly (some very very minor missteps - but really it was okay). Really good value - I will be back very soon.

Starters were potato leek soup with horseradish foam, mussels in curry cream sauce

The soup was actually very light - and the horseradish foam quite subtle - a very nice way to start the meal. The soup came out HOT - which was perfect given the weather last night. The mussels were plump and briny - very nice.

My main was a veal chop with mushrooms - beautiful. Loaded with chanterelles and napped in a beatiful veal sauce. Came with a side of potatoes gratin that was perfection - I gave most it to my Aunt in an effort to somehow try and follow doctor's orders about my diet.

My Aunt had the duck breast that was perfectly cooked and came with a very light orange sauce. Celeriac puree was smooth and luxurious - but the chestnuts that came with dish seemed a little underdone. This may be a matter of personal taste.

Such an interesting food block with Lumiere, Feenie's and now Mistral. When you include Moderne Burger - there is a place for everybody's taste and pocket book (okay - maybe you have to include the White Spot accross the street).

[fud]

Thanks for the pictures Lee! The Veal looks really good. I think this is on my list of places to try.

[*Deborah*]

I want to be reincarnated as Lee's Auntie.

[BCinBC]

Too funny Lee, I was considering Mistral last night too - but we ended up at Lumiere. I even peeked in the window just to see the room, but did not see you. When eG ships pass in the night...

[Mooshmouse]

Lee, your post was the gentle reminder that I needed to post about my own meal at the Benoit's new establishment just last week with photos courtesy of Chef Metcalf.

The two of us had a leisurely lunch at Mistral on a rainy Thursday afternoon. We were fortunate enough to get one of the last unreserved tables as the restaurant was absolutely packed.

Chef Metcalf and I shared the Trio of Duck to start which was a winner right out of the gate: Rillettes, Pâté in crépine and Smoked Duck Breast Prosciutto served with cornichons and onion confit. Admittedly, we both found the rilletes to be a bit on the bland side. However, the prosciutto was lovely and the pâté was nothing short of spectacular, beautifully accented by perfectly caramelized onion confit. I'd go back for the pâté alone.

Salade frisée aux croûtons, lardons et œuf dur

Ever conscious of her girlish figure, Chef Metcalf ordered a salad as her main course. Unfortunately, the salad was so heavily laden with fat that it remained half uneaten.

Blanquette de Veau

My main dish, however, more than made up for the misstep with the salad. It was shown as Blanquette de Poulet on the specials board, but I certainly wasn't disappointed with the substitution of veal. Perfectly cooked, fork-tender meat enveloped in a rich, wonderfully creamy sauce. Outstanding comfort food..

Granted, it's been a week, but the wines we had escape me just now. Chef Metcalf will have to help me out on this one: I believe she had a Pinot Grigio and I had a Beaujolais. Two glasses of each, so perhaps we were a bit fuzzy.

Dessert was both a hit and a miss. Chef Metcalf's Créme brulée à la Catalane, although nicely flavoured, was on the runny side. But my Warm Soft-centered Chocolate Cake with star anise cream was well executed. Bittersweet chocolate, not overpowered at all by the star anise.

The room itself was warm and welcoming, very French provincial and brighter than L'Emotion. Service was great. Friendly and attentive, not obsequiously so. On the whole, we had a very enjoyable meal, and I'm very enthusiastic about returning to sample Mistral's dinner menu.

[Mooshmouse]

In the Diner section of this month's Vancouver Magazine, Jamie Maw dishes on his escape from foul autumn climes at Mistral.