Help! Visiting Philadelphia for the first time.

[EdtheMLB]

Hello,

This is officially my first post on eGullet...so here goes.

I am visiting Philadelphia next weekend (Sept. 3nd) and I was wondering if you anyone could suggest a few restaurants/activities/sites for me and my vegetarian girlfriend. We're staying at the ClubQuaters Hotel (168 Chestnut St.). We have Sat./Sun/Mon. mornings to explore the city and see what we can find.

I'm really looking forward to all the different places available to eat. I've heard of the two famous Philly cheese steak places across the street from one another, however I'm a bit weary to try those out (possible tourist trap?). I also read on citysearch.com that there is an Italian market in the city that is preety good. Can anyone support this?

My girlfriend is looking more towards to visiting some of the sites in they city. She wants to visit those stairs that Rocky ran up. I don't mind the sites but I would like to find the places that are off the map. I read in the New York Times that as far as arts and culture, Philly is now what Brooklyn was 20 yrs ago. I would like to find some of these things that make Philly special.

Though my girlfriend is a strict vegetarian (no chicken or fish), please don't let this limit your selection to vegan/vegetarian oriented establishments. She is willing to go to places that serve primarily meat (i.e. steak houses, bbq joints).

Thanks for your advice.

-Ed

P.S. Anyone have any ideas on getting around the $20/day parking fee?

[deprofundis]

I'm really looking forward to all the different places available to eat. I've heard of the two famous Philly cheese steak places across the street from one another, however I'm a bit weary to try those out (possible tourist trap?).  I also read on citysearch.com that there is an Italian market in the city that is preety good. Can anyone support this?

The two famous cheesesteak places across the street from each other are Pat's and Geno's. They're located in south philly, where Passyunk Ave crosses 9th St. It's pretty far from where you're staying, but you'll have your car right? Maybe a 20 minute drive (lots of lights and stop signs). Is it a tourist trap? Maybe. Both make pretty good cheesesteaks, but not the best in the city. I'm partial to Geno's, but they're inconsistent in my experience. It's probably worth a visit. The Italian Market is on 9th Street, just north of Pat's and Geno's, and goes up to Christian Street. Also worth a visit, especially if you're going to be in the area for cheesesteaks.

My girlfriend is looking more towards to visiting some of the sites in they city.  She wants to visit those stairs that Rocky ran up. I don't mind the sites but I would like to find the places that are off the map. I read in the New York Times that as far as arts and culture, Philly is now what Brooklyn was 20 yrs ago. I would like to find some of these things that make Philly special.

That sounds a little snooty of the NYT. lol Actually they're probably right though. The Rocky stairs are the stairs for the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the enormous building at the end of the Ben Franklin Parkway. Also far from where you're staying, but you'll have a car, no? If you're into art museums it's worth a visit. Oh as far as getting around the $20/day parking fees in Center City, you'll have to suck it up. You can park at a meter if you like moving your car every 2 hours. The closest free street parking is probably at least 5-6 blocks away from where you're staying.

Edited August 25, 2005 by deprofundis (log)

[JohnL]

I live in NYC but I have been top Philadelphia many many times on business and pleasure.

It is one of my favorite cities!

If you like to walk--this is a great town.

You can pretty much cover most of it on foot--with good weather you will be able to walk to most places.

I would definitely see the Art Museum (Rocky steps)a really fine museum but also behind it is a great park where many colleges/ universities have their boat houses for the rowing teams--the Schuylkill river is there.

I would also visit the Reading Terminal Market-one of the great food markets anywhere.--It is downtown across from the Marriott.

The Liberty bell is located right in Center City as are Independance Hall both must sees.

Also a walk around Society Hill is nice-like going back in time. This is on the way from Center City to the Delaware river front--a nice walk!

The waterfront is great too.

For cheese steaks Pat's and Geno's are the best but if you don't want to travel (twenty minutes by car at least from Center City--you can get a pretty good sandwich at Jim's if it is still open (the locals will probably hit me for this rec).

There are good restaurants all over the place-Philly is a great food town.

Edited August 25, 2005 by JohnL (log)

[MarketStEl]

Hi, Ed!

Both of you should have a good time munching your way through the City of Brotherly Love.

Tackling your questions in no particular order:

Your hotel is at 17th and Chestnut, which is not all that far from the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The "Rocky steps" lead from Eakins Oval at the upper end of the Ben Franklin Parkway to the museum's east door. Doing a "Rocky run" up the steps has become a local cliche, but that shouldn't stop you or your girlfriend from doing the same. However, once you get to the top, I strongly encourage you to proceed into the museum, one of America's finest collections of art and decorative objects. If you two are into walking, a stroll up the Parkway is a good way to get some exercise in. As far as food is concerned, there's not a lot of it to be found on the Parkway. One of the finest restaurants in the city--the Fountain Room at the Four Seasons Hotel--is on Logan Circle, but this is a very pricey special-occasion restaurant, and as far as those go, there are several that are more interesting. The cafe at the Art Museum serves pretty good food at relatively reasonable prices as well. However, I'd probably eat somewhere else before or after my visit.

Oh, go ahead and check out the dueling cheesesteak joints at the corner of 9th and Passyunk in South Philly. Neither of them are the best in town--search this forum for discussions of the places that are; which place deserves to be called the best is an open question--but both put out a good product; my own preference is for Pat's over Geno's. Your vegetarian girlfriend might want to try one of the bahn mi (Vietnamese hoagies) served at O Sandwiches, a new eatery one door north from Geno's; they have a couple of very tasty meatless ones.

"Cheesesteak Corner" lies at the extreme southern tip of the Italian Market. Decades of population loss have drained the market's southerly end of much of its activity, though a few businesses--including a couple of Mexican groceries and one of the best places to get Middle Eastern groceries in the city--remain below Washington Avenue. The heart of the "Italian" Market (I put "Italian" in quotes here because nowadays it's a lot more polyglot) is the three-block stretch from Christian Street to Washington Avenue. In addition to cheap produce and really good meats, you will find cafes, the city's best cheesemongers, a kitchenware emporium to die for, and purveyors of Mexican and Asian specialties. Recommended eateries nearby include Taqueria Veracruzana and Plaza Garibaldi, both in the 900 block of Washington Avenue; Pho Ba Le (600 block of Washington) and Pho 75 (1100 block of Washington); Porky & Porkie Korean BBQ Buffet (also 11th and Washington)...there are plenty more like these in the area--take a stroll and see what tickles your fancy. Also check out the current discussion of Ralph's, which also mentions Villa di Roma--both on South 9th--for an assessment of old-style South Philly red-gravy Italian restaurants.

The city's best produce emporium, however, is the Reading Terminal Market, located beneath the Pennsylvania Convention Center at 12th and Filbert. Since you will be in town over a weekend, you will be able to visit when the Pennsylvania Dutch stands are open as well. Some of the best hoagies in the city are served at Salumeria in the Reading Terminal Market, and there's a pretty good roast pork stand (DiNic's) there too.

You should spend Friday evening in Old City if at all possible. On the first Friday of every month, the galleries in Old City hold receptions and parties that lure good-sized crowds. Old City is also Center City's adult nightlife zone (in contrast to South Street, where the kids hang out), with lots of bars and several excellent restaurants. Restaurant impresario Stephen Starr got his start here with the Continental, a diner-turned-nightclub at 2d and Market; other notable restaurants in the neighborhood include Fork (200 block of Market), Paradigm (300 block of Chestnut) and Philadelphia Fish & Company (2d and Chestnut)--and that's only scratching the surface.

One of the more fascinating on-the-map historic sites is Franklin Court, Robert Venturi's "ghost house" on the site where Ben Franklin's residence stood. The museum below the structure delves into Franklin's life and the Philadelphia of his day (middle of the block between 3d and 4th, Market and Chestnut streets--look for the sign saying "To Let, B. Franklin, Inquire within" in the middle of the 300 block of Market).

There are a lot of interesting little off-the-map museums as well, ranging from the Atwater Kent Museum (15 South 7th), the city's official history museum, to the Civil War Library and Museum (Delancey Street somewhere around 18th or 19th), to the Mutter Museum of the College of Physicians of Philadephia (21st Street between Market and Chestnut) with its medical freak show.

I'm sure my fellow Philadelphians on this board will have other tips for dining and sightseeing. Welcome to Philly, the place that loves you back!

[rlibkind]

MarketStEl's covered some of this, but let me add my two-cents:

Pat's and Geno's are closer than a 20 minute ride, certainly on weekends. As far as these cheesesteak outposts being "tourist traps," they are not. Yes, they are on the tourist map, but lots of locals partake of them and vigorously debate their merits, as this message board attests. There are plenty of other decent cheesesteak places, some better than Pat's and Gino's. Another popular spot that makes a reliable, tasty cheesesteak is Jim's at South and Fourth.

Gino's and Pat's are located about four-five blocks south of the Ninth Street (Italian) Market, the heart of which runs along Ninth Street from Washington north to Christian, but spills over to adjacent streets. Must-see stores include DiBruno's and Claudio's for Italian goods (and Claudio's fresh made mozzarella store, perfect right now during the height of the tomato season), and Isgro's for pastry (though in the heat of the summer I generally avoid cannoli, sfogliatelle and the like.

As much as the Ninth Street Market offers, for general shopping and eating I prefer the Reading Terminal Market at Arch and 12th. (Closed Sundays, and not open at night.l). Pennsylvania Dutch merchants (selling pretzels, baked goods, candy, cold cuts, etc.) are there Wednesday-Saturday. Lots of other merchants (3 fish mongers, for instance), produce stores (Iovine's is open six days a week and offers the broadest selection, much better than any supermarket, although Thursday-Saturday the Fair Food Project Farmstand is there with lots of excellent produce, and on Saturday's in center court there's Earl Livengood from Lancaster County; Benuel Kaufmann's Pennsylvania Dutch stand is open six days a week, too, if I recall correctly, and he frequently has excellent produce. I'll put in a plug for some friends, Mike and Julie Holahan, whose Pennsylvania General Store offers Pennsyania-made food products (think Copes Dried Corn, etc.) and crafts.

Think wider than cheesesteaks. At the Reading Terminal Market you will find Tommy DiNic's. Tommy makes one of the best sandwiches in a city of great sandwiches: roast pork. Get it with greens and aged provolone. He also does veal, beef and, lately, brisket; all are good, but the pork is what to get if you can get only one. There are other purveyors of fine roast pork sandwiches, especially Tony Luke's on Oregon Avenue under I-95, and John's Roast Pork at Snyder just a few blocks west of Columbus Blvd. (formerly Front street).;

As anyone who checks this board regularly knows, I'm a big fan of the Reading Terminal Market. There are lots of other places to east there, including breakfast at either the Down Home Diner or the Pennsylvania Dutch Eating Place (try the scrapple at either). Pizza By George makes one of the best pizza-by-the-slice versions around. Hoagies at Salumeria are a treat (good vegetarian opinions; my favorite non-veggie is the prosciutto with everything, including house dressing and marinated artichokes). Nanee's Kitchen for very filling South Asian (Pakistani). Delilah's for fried chicken and ribs and mac 'n cheese And these are just a few of the places to get breakfast, lunch or takeaway. I would avoid Pearl's, where I find the seafood second rate. Likewise, the cheesesteak's at Rick's, while passable, are hardly worth a detour. The crepes at Profi's Creperie aren't to my tastes, either.

The "Rocky Steps" are part of the Philadelphia Museum of Art along the Benjamin Franklin Parkway. A smaller museum, operated under contract by PMA, is the Rodin Museum at the Parkway & 22nd streets. "The Thinker" is out front. It's a small museum, but well worth a visit. Another museum sometimes bypassed is the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, Broad & Cherry. Dedicated to American art. Worth it just to see the Frank Furness designed original building.

When you're in the Art Museum neighborhood (which is where I live) you've got some excellent dining choices, most of which offer good vegetarian fare. The most striking in terms of ambiance is Illuminare, Fairmount Ave. between 23d and 24th, maybe three blocks from PMA. Incredibly handsome dining room reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright's Prairie Style, and a delightful courtyard for al fresco dining. As far as food goes, if you stick with the simpler fare you will be very well fed.

An interesting interior can be found at Jack's Firehouse, Fairmount between 21st and 22nd. It is a converted firehouse, and a rowing scull is suspended over the bar. Burgers and pulled pork and sandwiches on the bar menu, grilled fish and meats in the dining room, with some veggie options. People tend to either loved or hate Jack McDavid's food; I'm in the camp of the former, though I'll be the first to admit consistency is sometimes an issue.

Other Art Museum eateries worth a stop include London Grill (23rd and Fairmount, great burgers and an eclectic American menu worth investigating), Rembrandt's (23rd and Aspen just north of Fairmount; stick to the bar menu and pizzas, but it's a great bar); and Zorba's for Greek at Fairmount near 23rd.

Back to the issue of parking. You might want to consider using an outlying parking lot, then taking cabs, buses and walking. There's a parking lot at 23rd and Fairmount, where the maximum daily rate is $9; it's pretty safe, since a number of neighbors park their second car there, on-street parking sometimes being rare in the area. The No. 48 bus goes right by there every 10-15 minutes and connects the neighborhood with Center City and the historic district, going down Market Street, and returning up Arch. You can also find free street parking in the neighborhood during the day, when people are at work. It's when you come home at night that the parking spots are scarce.

[Holly Moore]

Welcome to eGullet, Ed.

A few random answers.

Rocky ran both the art museum steps and through the Italian market, so there is a theme to visiting both. I'm pretty sure the the Italian Market is where Rocky punched out the side of beef - I'm guessing at Esposito's though no one has claimed bragging rights to that particular scene.

Things to see in the Italian Market: Fante's for a great selection of kitchen equipment and espresso makers. D'Angelo's for sausages, pates and exotic meats. Claudio's and DiBruno Brothers for Italian Deli and specialties. George's Sandwiches for a tripe sandwich. Good pork and beef too. There are two George's in the Market. You want the one on the west side of 9th Street a couple of storefronts south of Christian.

Popular with tourists does not equate to tourist traps. And both Gino's and Pat's are more popular with locals than tourists. I prefer Gino's for their cheesesteaks - and yes you have to order a "whiz, with" meaning with Cheeze Whiz and fried onions - and Pat's for the history and for their South Philly attitude.

I steer all visitors to Carman's Country Kitchen at 11th and Wharton for Brunch. It's a totally unique experience - both because of Carman and the combinations she comes up with for the specials. Carman's is busy on the weekend so call the day you are coming for reservations and be on time or you'll lose the reservation.

Philadelphia is becoming or has become the city of BYO's. There are a bunch of good ones. Most have been discussed here. Django often gets top ratings.

At Reading Terminal Market - DeNic's for a roast pork sandwich with greens and aged provolone, Fishers pretzels, Bassett's Ice Cream and breakfast at Jack McDavid's Down Home Diner. A meal at the counter of the Dutch eating place is a lot of fun and good eating, too.

Edit: rlibkind and I were composing at the same time, so there is some duplication. Honest, I wasn't cribbing from his.

Edited August 25, 2005 by Holly Moore (log)

[rlibkind]

Edit:  rlibkind and I were composing at the same time, so there is some duplication.  Honest, I wasn't cribbing from his.

←

Great minds (and tummies) think alike -- Bob

[EdtheMLB]

Thank you so much guys. I really can't tell you all how much I appreciate the responses.

Thanks again.

-Ed

[monavano]

Club Quarters will discount your parking by about 10% or so. Not much, but it helps. Parking is across the street (you'll see a large high rise). Drive past CQ, which will be on your right. Make a left at the next light, and a left into the parking lot. Tell CQ you'll need your parking ticket validated. When you pay upon leaving the garage, the discount will be taken.

Down the street is Di Bruno Bros , an amazing and huge foodery for meat eaters and vegetarians alike. I'm sure you can get something for lunch to please both of you. Take you're lunch to go, ride the philly Phlash up to the Art Museum and have a little picnic there overlooking the Parkway. Now THAT'S eating in Philly.

When you visit Reading Terminal, try out Delilah's for her macaroni and cheese (voted best in America by Oprah, no less) and collard green. You can add fried chicken to you're platter, but even with it, it's a wonderful combination.

Enjoy your visit.

Edited August 25, 2005 by monavano (log)

[mrbigjas]

ed, i second sandy's recommendation of the mutter museum up there. if you want a place that's right downtown yet off the beaten track, subject-matter-wize, that's a good one. and it's only five blocks from your hotel.

in addition, the rodin museum has the largest collection of rodin's work outside of paris. those are good.

there's also the university of pennsylvania museum--that's archaeology and anthropology.

wandering through fairmount park is nice, and there's the japanese teahouse up there, which is very cool.

but enough about sights. foodwise, rlibkind covered a lot up there, as did holly--his recommendation for brunch at carman's, especially. and rlibkind is king of the terminal--listen to him.

one place that isn't recommended often enough is also just a block or two from your hotel--it's called tria, they focus on beers, wines by the glass or bottle, and cheeses. they also have a sandwich menu and small dishes, but it's not a full service restaurant for dinner or something--just a good place to stop in the late afternoon after touring around, for a nice glass of beer or wine and good snacks.

another place that's similarly good to stop for snacks or a meal is the old-school philadelphia fish house, sansom street oyster house. at happy hour time they have cheap but always impeccably fresh oysters and clams, and the best snapper soup around.

if you're a burger sort of person, there are about five places within a few blocks of your hotel that can make great ones--brasserie perrier, rouge, good dog, black sheep, off the top of my head.

while you're in the area, at 19th & walnut is la colombe, one of the best coffeehouses in the country. i recommend starting every day there.

also your hotel is 1 block from dibruno bros. new store, which is packed with great cheeses, meats, breads, olives and about a billion other foods from around the world. stock up for your drive home so you don't have to resort to reheated BK at the joyce kilmer rest area on the turnpike.

if you tell us a little more about what you like, we might be able to come up with more options...

Edited August 25, 2005 by mrbigjas (log)

[I_call_the_duck]

Hi Ed.

These guys have pretty much covered it all, but I'll throw my two cents in.

Also, Reading Market has this nice crepe place (whose name I can't recall, but it's the only one) that offers good vegetarian options. If you go there on Saturdays after four, the Amish bakery (right at the 12th and Arch street entrance) offers pretty much everything for $2, since they need to get rid of their inventory.

In Old City, I like Chloe (Arch Street, between 2nd & 3rd). I heard wonderful things about Radicchio (4th & Wood streets).

Other restaurants I like include Matyson (19th and Market streets), Pumpkin (18th and South streets), and Django (but you need to reserve one month in advance). All the restaurants I mentioned are BYOs.

Don’t miss the Calder sculptures along the (Ben Franklin) Parkway. On Friday evenings, the Art Museum has free concerts on their steps. They also serve food and drinks. Also, City Hall has some beautiful sculptures around and inside the building. It's the type of building they don't make anymore.

There's this amazing Tiffany mosaic in the Curtis Center (6th and Walnut street). The hours are kinda strange, but even if you can’t go in, you can see it from the outside. Pine Street (around 12th) has nice antique shops if you're into that. If you walk along South Street (mainly between 10th and 2nd streets), you’ll find beautiful mosaics on the side of buildings. The artist’s studio is located on 10th & South streets. I also like the Rosenbach Museum on Delancy Street (between 20th & 21st streets). There, you’ll find some of Philadelphia’s most beautiful mansions.

As far as parking goes, I heard this rumor that you can park in spaces reserved for City Council members for free on weekends. But this is only a rumor. (Has anyone tried this?)

[robertruelan]

You got some good advice here, but I would second the advice of a few :

- First Friday (if it's a nice night out, expect big crowds)

- Philadelphia Art Museum (Sunday's is 'Pay what you wish all day', I think they 'suggest' $5. You can stop by the Rodin Museum, since it's very close by)

- Reading Terminal Market (If I had one food 'must-see' place to visit, this would be it)

- Matyson for lunch/dinner (only a few blocks away)

I would add (all fairly closeby):

- Pre-dinner/theater drinks at the Rotunda Bar in Ritz-Carlton hotel (Ten Avenue of the Arts) on Broad Street near Chestnut Street.

- Capital Grille (Steakhouse) 1338 Chestnut St. (on Broad Street, across the street from Ritz-Carlton)

- Nodding Head (Brewpub that also has decent food, especially the fries) 1516 Sansom St.

- Melograno (BYOB Italian) 2201 Spruce St.

- It's near Reading Terminal, but Rangoon Restaurant (Burmese) (112 N. 9th St.), in our Chinatown section, if you've never had Burmese, you gotta try this place.

- Not a food place, but take a stroll around Rittenhouse Square (or any of our great squares). From 18th to 20th Street, near Walnut Street. It's probably 3-4 blocks South from your hotel. You'll probably enjoy the walk after all the eating

If your looking for nightlife ideas, one of the first things to do is pick up a copy of a free paper called CityPaper(look for orange-ish boxes on most street corners) you'll find alot of local entertainment information there. CityPaper recently did an article on various tourist tours, you can find it here.. I actually took the Big Bus tour last year and I would recommend it, especially if it's a nice day outside. Also, it's a good mode of transportation, since you can ride it free all day (get / on off as much as you want).

There's so much, but I hope this helps. Enjoy your trip!

[Kobi]

Agreed that you have gotten some great advice... a couple things I would add:

1- I don't know about the vegeterian meal options, but Pod (37th and Sansom) is a true dining experience. Expensive, but not out of line. Soem great vegetable side dishes, too.

2- Check out Rittenhouse Square, especially on a weekend morning/afternoon. Second that for Fairmount Park. The restaurants surrounding the Square are all good (Rouge known for its hamburger). La Colombe, which I learned about on this site, is a very short walk and makes a great cup of coffee.

As for non-food related items, check out City Hall, and take the tour if you can. A truly remarkable building and story. Also Fairmount Park is a good spot to visit and just wander through, and the Art Museum is worth the price of admission just to relax in the main entryway and for the walk up the steps.

- Kobi

[MarketStEl]

Edit:  rlibkind and I were composing at the same time, so there is some duplication.  Honest, I wasn't cribbing from his.

←

Great minds (and tummies) think alike -- Bob

←

And both of you must have been composing right on my heels.

I will note, however, that we managed to recapitulate the Great Cheesesteak Debate ("Pat's or Geno's?") within these three posts, including one "Try Jim's instead!"

FWIW, Tony Luke's is justly more famous for its roast pork Italian sandwich--which more than a few PhillieGulleteers have suggested should displace the cheesesteak as Philadelphia's signature sandwich--but the place also makes a mean cheesesteak.

At the risk of overloading our visiting friend, since neighborhood eateries were mentioned, let me add a few of my local recommendations--I live in the heart of Center City's Wash West "gayborhood" at 12th and Locust:

--Caribou Cafe, 1128 Walnut. They're on their annual summer vacation right now, but should be open again by the time you get here. An authentic French bistro in both atmosphere and menu--great steaks and burgers to boot, plus live music on the weekends.

--Moriarty's, four doors east of the Caribou on Walnut, just across Quince Street from the Forrest Theater. See my opening post in the "Metro Wings It" thread for the reason why I recommend this place. The rest of their fare is at least decent, and they have plenty of good beers on tap--though not as good as the microbrews featured at Good Dog (15th between Walnut and Locust), whose burger I hear is excellent but I have yet to try.

--Planet Hoagie, 1211 Walnut. Reasonable people will disagree on whether these are the city's best hoagies--I say they are among the best, and Philadelphia magazine gave them top honors in its 2004 "Best of Philly" issue. But even those who do not consider Planet Hoagie, with its chain-like atmosphere, one of the best places in town will agree that these are good sandwiches.

--Portofino Restaurant, 1233 Walnut. Not as stylish or up-to-the-minute as new neighbor Pompeii (opposite Moriarty's in the 1100 block), and the front facade is a little tacky, but the Italian fare is quite good indeed, and the prices not too bad for an upscale Italian place. An expansion project is currently under way.

Save any of the recommendations you don't manage to visit for a future trip. I'm sure there will be one after this time.

[MarketStEl]

Don’t miss the Calder sculptures along the (Ben Franklin) Parkway.

Trivia: You can actually spy three generations of Calder sculpture from the top of the Art Museum steps.

The sculptures that adorn Philadelphia City Hall, from the 37-foot-tall William Penn statue atop its tower on down, are the work of Alexander Milne Calder.* Halfway up the Parkway, the Swann Fountain in Logan Circle is the work of his son, Alexander Stirling Calder. Both of these you can see from the Art Museum courtyard. Behind you, hanging from the ceiling of the Art Museum's main lobby, is a mobile by A.M.'s grandson and A.S.'s son, Alexander Calder. Another Alexander Calder stabile is located at 21st and the Parkway, near the site of a proposed Calder museum.

If you walk along South Street (mainly between 10th and 2nd streets), you’ll find beautiful mosaics on the side of buildings.  The artist’s studio is located on 10th & South streets.

←

The artist's name is Isaiah Zagar, and the courtyard next door to his studio is also a sight to behold. (There was a community uproar last year when the owner of the land proposed building condos on it. I think, but am not certain, that some arrangement was reached that spared the work.)

Somewhat food-related trivia: The Super Fresh supermarket in the same block of South Street as Zagar's studio is one of the hottest pickup spots in Center City--especially if you're a man seeking men. (Or so said the readers of the CityPaper last year.)

*Edited to add: A.M.'s sculptures on City Hall are wonderful works--and he threw in some playful touches as well. If you walk through City Hall's south entrance arch, look to your left and right at just about eye level--the vine-and-rose band repeatedly features a sculpted cat chasing a mouse.

Edited August 26, 2005 by MarketStEl (log)

[stephenc]

Parking:

Sundays you park for free.

On Saturdays you have to feed a meter or park in a lot with three exceptions.

North Philly north of Girard, Sat and Sun you can park unlimited.

South Philly south of Washington you can park pretty much anywhere, even double parked or parked on a median. I think between South and Washington you can park Sat/Sun unlimited.

West Philly west of 40th Sat and Sun you can park unlimited.

There are lots that have 5 dollar parking.

If you're near 10th/Convention center, you can park north of Arch south of Spring Garden in the lofty factory area. Parking is mostly unmarked, hence hey don't ticket there.

During the nice afternoons, I'd walk South Street or hang out in Rittenhouse Square.

South Street and Walnut Street/Chestnut west are the two big shopping districts.

Edited August 26, 2005 by stephenc (log)

[cinghiale]

Parking:

I think between South and Washington you can park Sat/Sun unlimited.

←

Not that it'll matter much to the OP, but the friggin' Parking Authority's made Bella Vista into a patchwork of confusing parking restrictions. My block -- the 800 block of Bainbridge -- is 2 hour M-Sat 8-6, unrestricted on Sunday. The 900 block is unrestricted on Sat AND Sun. The 700 block of S. 9th (which intersects with the aforementioned two blocks), as well as many other block surrounding the restaurants north of the Italian Market, is 2 hr M-W 8-8, 2 hr Thu-Sun 8-midnight (!). When it comes to parking in Philly, it's best to make no assumptions and read the signage verrrrrry carefully.

[EdtheMLB]

Thanks for all your advise. I almost felt like I knew the city before I even got there. The layout is very similar to Manhattan so it was easy navigate.

Philedalphia is an awesome city with tons to offer. We couldn't fit it all in one weekend. The thing that blew me away the most, and that I most enjoyed were the markets in Philly. I loved the Reading Terminal Market so much I went twice in the same day (had it been open on Monday, I would have gone for a third time). I got a roast pork sandwich from DiNics. Everyone was right about this place. The pork was some of the juciest that I have ever had. The one thing that I didn't enjoy about this sandwich was that the bread was a bit soggy. I asked for the sandwich to go, so my guess is that the juice from the pork, soaked into the bread. But the flavor was right on.

We then went to Fosters where they have some preety neat trinkets and gadgets. The guy behind the counter there was unbelievalbe helpful. He had a wealth of information about the use of S hooks to hang meat and provalone. I picked up some S hooks to hang utensils on the rack above my oven.

We ventured over to Fisher soft pretzel and watch the girls do their thing. It was amazing to watch them make pretzels and pig in blankets from this amazing dough. I got a soft pretzel w/ butter while my girlfriend picked up some wax candy. I noticed that the pretzel had a nice tang to it.

While my girlfriend was picking out candy, I wandered over to the Dutch eating place with pretzel in hand. I was suprised by the sign I saw for a Rib sandwich. Ribs have bones, how could you make a sandwich out of them? After a conversation with the lady behind the counter, it turns out they remove the meat from the rib after cooking (unlike the McRib from McDonalds that is made from ground meat). Even though I had just eaten a sandwich about 30 minutes prior, I had to try this one. I took my sandwich and sat outside of the market, just south of the convention center on 12th street. I have to be honest, I enjoyed the rib sandwich more than the pork sandwich from DiNic's. The rib meat was so juicy that it was literally dripping from my mouth (like a watermelon). And it paired so nicely with the mild bbq sauce the had.

About an hour later, we met my girlfriends family at the Christ Church where B. Franklin is buried. There was some fine wine, champagne and cheese waiting for us. We received a very informative tour the burial grounds. At the end I did the tourist thing and threw a penny on B. Franklins grave.

We then headed to Fork:etc for diner, which was amazing.

We had two tables set up in what was the retail section of the restaurant where they sell packaged lunches, books, and things of that sort.

Appetizer - Duck pate with creole mustard and conishon pickels

Entre - Hanger steak with yuca (cassava) fries and sauted chard

<Forgot to snap a picture>

Desert - Peach cobler with lemon grass and vanilla gelati.

The second day we took a cab to the Italian market. First stop was Gino's for a steak sandwich. The sandwich was the best steak sandwich I've ever had. And I got a little south Philly attitude when I asked for a cheese steak with no cheese. We then headed up the west side of 9th street checking out all the store fronts. We stopped in Claudio and picked up some olive oil, cheese, and panchetta. I found myself blown away yet again. We tried so many different cheeses, and I even bought my first aged balsamic vinager (the 25 year old Claudio brand).

We then stopped in the spice market. I have actually never seen, been in, or imagined a store like this; that sells only spices, teas, and coffees. I bought some white and yellow semolina and some tomatoe and spinach powder for pasta making (I'm planning on posting on the Pasta cookoff thread when i can get to it). I also picked up some chamomile green tea, and candied ginger.

Walking south down the east side of 9th, we didn't really pick up much as it was mostly fresh produce and meats. I did pick up one of those peeled and chopped mangoes. The mango was very good and sweet. I felt like a kid again getting the mangoe all over my hands and face. Buying fresh ready to eat fruit on the street kinda reminded me of Ghana where you can buy fresh coconuts for the milk, and mangoes on the street.

One thing I noticed in Philly was how accomodating everyone was. Everyone we asked for directions was so helpfull.

After the market we went back to my girlfriends uncles house (22nd by Delancey) were they were grilling some food. Preety standard fare except for these shrimps marinated in garlinc, ginger, sesame, honey and what I think was ketchup. It was amazing to eat as you got bits of ginger with every shrimp.

The birthday cake was a tiramisu cake that the children decorated.

On monday before we left, we wanted to stop into la colombe for some coffee. Unfortunatley it was closed for Labor day. We saw a man in the park w/ a cup of coffee and asked him where he got his from. He pointed us down Walnut to the bridge to the new coffee shop (I think it was Walnut Bridge Coffee shop). They served illy coffee which was of very good quality. We took the coffee and lemon popy seed scone back to the park and sat and enjoyed the day for about an hour.

I also stopped by Pats and tried one of their steak sandwiches. This time I knew how to order. Looking back, both sandwiches were preety good and its hard to choose a winner. I'd have to say that fries were better at Pats, but Geno's was bigger and newer.

Things I would like to go back to Philly for: Arts Museum; South Street night scene; Liberty Bell; La Colombe coffee house.

Once again, thanks again for all your advice. I'd like to get to Philly atleast twice before the end of the year. I'd like to get the chance to experience Studiokitchen, and I would like to go out on South street.

Thanks guys.

-Ed

[cinghiale]

So glad to hear you enjoyed your visit to our fair city, Ed. It's really great to hear back from posters seeking recommendations on their experiences. Sounds like you made a terrific first dent in food exploration.

[mrbigjas]

sounds like a heck of a visit, ed. come back anytime.

--james

[MarketStEl]

Thanks for all your advise. I almost felt like I knew the city before I even got there. The layout is very similar to Manhattan so it was easy navigate.

Unlike in Manhattan, though, our street addresses increment with each numbered street!

Philedalphia is an awesome city with tons to offer. We couldn't fit it all in one weekend. The thing that blew me away the most, and that I most enjoyed were the markets in Philly. I loved the Reading Terminal Market so much I went twice in the same day (had it been open on Monday, I would have gone for a third time). I got a roast pork sandwich from DiNics. Everyone was right about this place. The pork was some of the juciest that I have ever had. The one thing that I didn't enjoy about this sandwich was that the bread was a bit soggy. I asked for the sandwich to go, so my guess is that the juice from the pork, soaked into the bread. But the flavor was right on.

Next time, make it a point to head down to Front and Oregon to try Tony Luke's. I understand they now have an incredible simulation of the place in Manhattan.

We then went to Fosters where they have some preety neat trinkets and gadgets. The guy behind the counter there was unbelievalbe helpful. He had a wealth of information about the use of S hooks to hang meat and provalone. I picked up some S hooks to hang utensils on the rack above my oven.

Just curious: Did your salesperson have silver hair, glasses and a beard?

I tend to forget about Foster's when I'm in the RTM, but it is a very good kitchenware store. Even more mind-boggling is Fante's in the Italian Market. If they don't have it, you probably don't need it.

About an hour later, we met my girlfriends family at the Christ Church where B. Franklin is buried. There was some fine wine, champagne and cheese waiting for us. We received a very informative tour the burial grounds. At the end I did the tourist thing and threw a penny on B. Franklins grave.

Ben Franklin's desired epitaph is IMO one of the best epitaphs that never appeared on a tombstone. (It is displayed on a plaque next to the gravesite.)

Another more famous one is that of W.C. Fields: "On the whole, I'd rather be in Philadelphia."

We then headed to Fork:etc for diner, which was amazing.

(pictures snipped)

So you made it to Old City on First Friday? Didja check out any of the galleries? How did you like the scene there?

The second day we took a cab to the Italian market.

This is just me, but when I'm in New York, I use the subway to get where I'm going. It's not really possible to do that here, as SEPTA's rapid transit system is skeletal, but if you toss in the buses, you can get around the city easily on public transportation. I would recommend your using the Market-Frankford line or the subway-surface trolleys on your next visit if you want to venture into University City.

I'll even give you an excuse to ride: Dahlak, 4707 Baltimore Ave. (SEPTA: Route 34 trolley from Center City--stations are at 13th, 15th, 19th and 22d Streets. Get off at 47th and Baltimore.) This Ethiopian/Eritrean restaurant is one of the most fun places to eat in the city. If you've never had Ethiopian food, the experience is unlike any other, except perhaps an authentic Moroccan restaurant (we have a couple of those, too--the best known is Marrakesh, on a small alley off South Street just west of 5th). Make sure you bring friends along--it's a communal experience. Owner Amare Solomon and his wife will make you feel most welcome. (I interviewed him about his restaurant while he was still employed in Penn's dining services. He has since left to devote his full attention to the restaurant and the revived business block that surrounds it. He was a catalyst in its revival.)

First stop was Gino's for a steak sandwich. The sandwich was the best steak sandwich I've ever had. And I got a little south Philly attitude when I asked for a cheese steak with no cheese.

What's the point of that?

Seriously, you just hadn't learned the lingo. It is possible to order a plain steak sandwich, no cheese, but that happens so rarely that people aren't prepared. Just make sure you ask for a "steak," not a "cheesesteak."

(Aside: Anyone else notice the local ad campaign Heineken beer has been waging for the past couple of years? Besides the obvious connection with the Eagles (the uniforms and Heineken beer bottles are the same color), I've seen a print ad in many locations--including on the side of pay phone enclosures--with the heading, "Cheesesteak, Heineken with.")

We then headed up the west side of 9th street checking out all the store fronts. (...)We then stopped in the spice market. I have actually never seen, been in, or imagined a store like this; that sells only spices, teas, and coffees. I bought some white and yellow semolina and some tomatoe and spinach powder for pasta making (I'm planning on posting on the Pasta cookoff thread when i can get to it). I also picked up some chamomile green tea, and candied ginger.

The Spice Market is wonderful. Their spices are first quality, and priced well below what you pay in the supermarket. However, this being the Italian Market, there are places that sell larger quantities of commonly used spices even cheaper--the big jars of foodservice spices.

One thing I noticed in Philly was how accomodating everyone was. Everyone we asked for directions was so helpfull.

I get stopped all the time by people asking directions. I thought it was just because I was emanating some sort of Midwestern vibe--even after all these years away from the region. Now I see it's really because I've picked up local customs. However, the word "Acme" still has only two syllables.

I also stopped by Pats and tried one of their steak sandwiches. This time I knew how to order. Looking back, both sandwiches were preety good and its hard to choose a winner. I'd have to say that fries were better at Pats, but Geno's was bigger and newer.

Geno's hasn't been in business as long as Pat's has, true, but it has been around for quite a while. The owners have a major cleanliness fetish, which is why it looks so new. Both Pat's and Geno's have gotten facelifts within the past year or two.

Things I would like to go back to Philly for: Arts Museum; South Street night scene; Liberty Bell; La Colombe coffee house.

Once again, thanks again for all your advice. I'd like to get to Philly atleast twice before the end of the year. I'd like to get the chance to experience Studiokitchen, and I would like to go out on South street.

←

If you're going to do more of the Historic Square Mile, I'd also recommend to you the National Constitution Center, at the north end of Independence Mall. This highly interactive museum succeeds at making our basic charter of government come alive.

Edited to add: Now could someone please tell me why the formatting isn't working in this post? I've looked over my tags three times and don't see any that aren't properly opened and closed.

Edited September 8, 2005 by MarketStEl (log)

[Carlson1105]

Rule of thumb is never get the roast pork to go. Doesn't travel well, too juicy.

[mrbigjas]

Rule of thumb is never get the roast pork to go. Doesn't travel well, too juicy.

←

what he said. i don't even get it wrapped up to walk the 10 feet over to a table.

[rlibkind]

Thanks for the report, Ed. and glad you and your GF enjoyed the visit. Come back soon! (And definitely try Tommy DiNic's or Tony Lukes, but this time, don't wrap the pork sammy.)