A Tale of Two Restaurants

[gaf]

A Tale of Two Restaurants

Being stuck in Philadelphia this week, I was able to dine at Striped Bass and at Le Bec-Fin, and their contrast startled me. The restaurants are located within a block of each other, but miles apart in their haute philosophies. (I also dined at Morimoto, at Dimics, and at Pat's, but that is a tale for another occasion).

The contrast between Le Bec-Fin and Striped Bass suggests something of the changes in American haute cuisine over the past 35 years - changes that are not entirely salutary.

In passing I note that my girlfriend (now wife) and I used to frequent La Panetière when Georges Perrier was the head chef in the late 60s and we were undergraduates at Penn. (There is a moral about giving one's collegiate offspring much too much spending money - but we chose the right aphrodisiac in selecting chanterelles over psilocybes). We followed Perrier to Le Bec-Fin when he opened his establishment on Spruce Street in 1970. La Panetière and Le Bec-Fin constituted the mainstays of Philadelphia dining until the Philadelphia restaurant revolution of the early years of the 1980s.

And what miracles they were! Georges Perrier captured my palate with the seduction of taste. He was unafraid to use powerful tastes, but his dishes were never showy. He was no hot dog. And at its best this was how dining could be imagined. I confess that I never had any grand desire to meet Georges Perrier, just to sup at his table forever.

Contrast this with our celebrity chefs today. If Charlie Trotter, Thomas Keller, Grant Achetz, Mark Miller, Paul Prudhomme (and these are some of my favorites) do not stop to chat somehow dinner is not complete. The food - even when spectacular - is but an expression of the vision of the chef/auteur.

Along with this culture of culinary celebrity is the sense that a meal must be a form of spectacle. And so we have vertical food, technocuisine, or the 31-flavors of fusion. If a dish doesn't have a dozen feuding ingredients (each identified by the helpful server), it is a dusty relic.

Blessedly Georges Perrier (and some others in the backwater haute cuisine temples of yesterday) will have none of it. The meal that I ate at Le Bec-Fin was as clean, as strong, and as confident as any dinner that I have eaten since, say, I last ate at Le Bec-Fin in the early 1970s (if this is a slight exaggeration, I hope no one will catch me).

I began with a cassolette of snails in a champagne and hazelnut garlic butter sauce (Cassolette d'escargots aux noisettes en hommage à Monsieur Cleuvenot [a lucky man was M. Cleuvenot]). Snails in butter is, of course, cliche, but not here. It was the touch of hazelnut and champagne that created transcendence from the mundane. With the snails and the nuts, I was presented with two earthy elements made ethereal through champagne and (oh yes!) the butter. The hazelnut oil combined with the butter in such as way as to make the snails seem newly fashioned, a more complex escargot but with neither chef nor diner forgetting that the dish was about the snail.

I selected black bass as my fish course: black sea bass barigoule, fresh herb and artichoke fricassee (Loup en barigoule avec son émulsion à l'huile d'olive, fricassée d'artichauts et ses herbes fraiches). Chilean sea bass has become rather common these days, but loup is somewhat rarer. I find that it has a slightly stronger, more assertive taste. It is a fish that can dance with a flavorful olive oil. Artichokes are not a garnish that goes with everything, but it certainly did with the olive oil and herbs. As with so many of chef Perrier's dishes this was a dish that appeared simpler on the plate than in the mouth.

The meat course was Pennsylvania rack of lamb, lupini beans and bell pepper fricassee, garlic confit, lamb jus and chorizo emulsion (the geographical descriptor is perhaps to placate local boosters - would it have mattered if the lambkins had swum across the Delaware River? And did those lupinis have their green card?). (Carré d'agneau de Pennsylvanie servi avec sa Basquaise, purée de lupins et ail confit, jus d'agneau et émulsion de chorizo). I admit that I didn't notice the chorizo and just as well.

The lamb was perfectly prepared. I couldn't imagine it needing a millisecond of more or less heat (and couldn't understand some fellow diners who insisted it their way. This ain't Sizzler). A noble lamb rack doesn't need much except itself and a whiff of garlic. The lupini and bell peppers (one mild, the other forceful) nicely set off the purity of the lamb. This is dining without artificial lights and fireworks. No need for a highwire when one stands on clouds.

After a cassis sorbet, we reached the fine cheese tray and then a dessert tray that again reached for the transcendence of simplicity: pineapple in a ginger jus, a tart that was the essence of lemon, and a definitive Philadelphia cheesecake (I insist that classic under-sweetened New York cheesecake has no equal).

Georges Perrier is a chef from the days that a chef was a worker, from the days that craftsmanship mattered, and from a day in which simplicity rather than elaboration - taste not decoration - mattered. Even the setting was the traditional Parisian salon (I prefer my architecture modernist, but, no matter, nostalgia has its virtues).

Contrast this to Striped Bass, the reopening of beloved Philadelphia seafood restaurant, part of the Stephen Starr family of restaurants in the lobby of an old brokerage house, from when investing in the market conveyed something about social class. Starr brought in Alfred Portole (of New York's Gotham Grill) as consulting chef and hired Christopher Lee his working chef. At this point Portole provides advice (although his touch, delightful and sometimes malign is evident). Lee, we were told with pride, received the James Beard Foundation's annual award (for Rising Star Chef of the Year). Ahhh, a celebrity chef on the march.

This little essay is not the account of a grand restaurant and a poor one. Striped Bass is a restaurant to which I would happily return if Le Bec-Fin were closed or if Pat's ran out of provolone (no Whiz, please). Striped Bass can be a superior restaurant, although at times too clever for its own good. Portole and now Lee seem to believe in a cuisine of excess. If five ingredients are good, fifteen must be yummy. Maybe.

We ordered the seasonal five course tasting menu. It began well with a yellowfin tuna tartare with English cucumber, shiso leaf, sweet miso, and Asian ginger dressing. It did not equal the sashimi at Morimoto (and why call it tartare), but the fish was fresh and not overly encumbered by cucumber, shiso, miso, or ginger. The plate was perhaps a little busy, but the tastes harmonized.

The second course was, well, a mess. Seared Diver Sea Scallops with barley grains, baby white asparagus, sun trout roe, lemon pepper sauce, and (ulp) microgreens. I am unsure how I feel about the licensing of handguns; however I wish someone would licence microgreens. But perhaps one of the NRAs would have use their considerable muscle to prevent what seems to me to be a most modest proposal. It was not that the dish was poorly executed, piece by piece, but less is more, and more is less. When each bite is a separate dish, something is wrong. And when the purity of the scallop is walloped by a lemon pepper sauce we can only sigh.

The third course - Organic Scottish Salmon with Artichoke Ravioli, Green Lentils, Smoked Yellow Tomato, and Warm Horseradish Vinaigrette - had some of the challenges of its predecessors, except for a better combination of tastes. Fortunately the artichoke ravioli - the essence of pureed artichokes - was at some distance from its neighbors and could be enjoyed on its own. Unlike Scallops, Salmon is able to stand up to rough justice, and the lentils were a fine complement.

Course four was christened "Philadelphia ‘Cheeseskate'." Trouble. Braised short rib surrounded by skate in a protein-laden hockey puck, Hen of the Woods mushrooms, caramelized onions, Parmesan cream and hot sauce (?). The braised short rib was delicious, although the skate was added just for a laugh. The skate, like the scallop, couldn't stand up to all the fanfare. Had the skate gone missing, the dish would have been superb, an inspired take on a definitive cheesesteak.

Desserts were anchored by an excellent (and simple) chocolate pot de creme, raspberry yogurt with mint ice cream, and a white grasshopper mousse. All were exemplary.

The problem of Striped Bass (and of Chefs Portole and Lee) is that they don't trust their ingredients and, perhaps, the attention of their diners. We do not all have gustatory ADD. They fear that we might not notice their work if the dish was not gussied up, bundled, and masqueraded. Chef Perrier trusts us, and knows that he need not strive for Disneyland or for the Time-Warner Center, just for Escoffier as lighted by Twenty-first Century preferences. Here we see the difference between the Enchantment of the Raucous Dish and the Enchantment of Taste.

Le Bec-Fin

1523 Walnut Street

Philadelphia

215567-1000

Striped Bass

1500 Walnut Street

Philadelphia

215-732-4444

Cross-Posted on LTHforum

Soon my digital camera shall arrive!

[Holly Moore]

Greetings and great write-up gaf.

Just one significant correction. One isn't "stuck" in Philadelphia. One celebrates the opportunity to savor Philadelphia.

[KatieLoeb]

Thanks for your insights gaf. Very well written and interesting perspective on two of the better dining establishments in our fair 'burg.

And indeed Holly is correct. You're hardly "stuck" here. Obviously you've found a way to spend some time, savoring the gustatory delights. Looking forward to your post on the "lowbrow" eats as well.

[philadining]

Indeed, gaf, welcome to the Philly board, and thanks for that very engaging report.

I think you make some very interesting points about the classic and modern styles. I might argue that trusting the ingredients, and cooking with elegant simplicity are not the only paths to culinary heights, but you're right, the flashy, busy plates that are so popular with today's chefs can be tiresome.

I'm really glad to know you found Le Bec so satisfying, there's been some whispering that the cooking had become a bit stodgy. Your descriptions are so vivid, I feel like I was there with you, and I think I liked it too!

But I feel the need to rise, again, to the defense of the humble cheese skate.... Of course I'd never insist that you MUST like it, it's a perfectly valid response to say it didn't work (you wouldn't be alone.) But I think people take it a bit too seriously. It's made with a bit of a smile and a wink, and sure, the skate gets overwhelmed by the other elements, but, you know, it's "the roll" which always gets overwhelmed. I found the one I ordered to be delicious, not just kind of clever.

But then, I get the whiz at Pats!

Please do post about your other meals, I'm sure we'd all be interested in your other experiences here. And be careful, if you get stuck here too long you might start liking the whiz...

[mrbigjas]

gaf: yeah, what they all said.

good writeup, thanks.

[gaf]

Well, I was originally writing for my fellow Chicagoans, who would have me for dinner if I were to say that I treasured Philadelphia.

But I do.

I was an undergrad at Penn from 1968 to 1972, and it was where I became a man, or better, a diner. And I love the city, even if there are now architectural hulks that reach higher than Billy Penn's statue. But who could hate a city with the Reading Terminal Market and the Duchamp room at the PMA, the Schuylkyl boathouses and the Italian market. I won't edit my first post, but Philly I

And thanks to Holly Moore for his magnificent webpage which I read when I become nostalgic. You have secret admirers here in the Chicago branch of Cyberspace.

Pat's was fine as usual, although the meat did not seem chopped as fine as I recall, and because, in their assembly line, the cheese is on the bottom, the cheese was not as much of an essential part of the sandwich as I recall. I agree with what is implicit in Holly's rankings that Pat's is perhaps not the best cheesesteak around (although able to blow away any Chicago CS).

Dimic's was terrific. We do have our share of pork sandwiches out here, but they tend to be breaded pork tenderloin. Dimic's is more of a French dip type sandwich - swimming in "jus." Alas, Fisher's Pretzels was closed and I didn't get to Down Home for my scrapple fix.

Although Richie Daley has done a lot for Chicago (viz Millenium Park), he does not think like a Chowist. The regulations are tough for food trucks and we do not have the food markets like Reading and the IM. Philly is (my) street food kind of town.

[KatieLoeb]

Well, I was originally writing for my fellow Chicagoans, who would have me for dinner if I were to say that I treasured Philadelphia.

But I do.

I was an undergrad at Penn from 1968 to 1972, and it was where I became a man, or better, a diner. And I love the city, even if there are now architectural hulks that reach higher than Billy Penn's statue. But who could hate a city with the Reading Terminal Market and the Duchamp room at the PMA, the Schuylkyl boathouses and the Italian market. I won't edit my first post, but Philly I 

And thanks to Holly Moore for his magnificent webpage which I read when I become nostalgic. You have secret admirers here in the Chicago branch of Cyberspace.

Pat's was fine as usual, although the meat did not seem chopped as fine as I recall, and because, in their assembly line, the cheese is on the bottom, the cheese was not as much of an essential part of the sandwich as I recall.  I agree with what is implicit in Holly's rankings that Pat's is perhaps not the best cheesesteak around (although able to blow away any Chicago CS).

Dimic's was terrific. We do have our share of pork sandwiches out here, but they tend to be breaded pork tenderloin. Dimic's is more of a French dip type sandwich - swimming in "jus." Alas, Fisher's Pretzels was closed and I didn't get to Down Home for my scrapple fix.

Although Richie Daley has done a lot for Chicago (viz Millenium Park), he does not think like a Chowist. The regulations are tough for food trucks and we do not have the food markets like Reading and the IM. Philly is (my) street food kind of town.

←

Dearest gaf:

As a fellow alumnae of UPenn and a fellow lover of all that the City of Brotherly Cheesesteaks has to offer I say:

We miss you! Come back any time!

You obviously get it!

[rlibkind]

Dimic's was terrific. We do have our share of pork sandwiches out here, but they tend to be breaded pork tenderloin. Dimic's is more of a French dip type sandwich - swimming in "jus."

←

gaf, at risk of placing you in jeopardy within earshot of any El, isn't DiNic's pork sandwich (or John's or Tony Luke's) an improvement upon Chicago's Italian Beef? I've yet to have one of the latter (as good as some of them are) that matches up to a Philly pork sandwich. Tommy DiNic, btw, also does a beef sandwich in the same style as his pork one.

[CherieV]

A Tale of Two Restaurants

I began with a cassolette of snails in a champagne and hazelnut garlic butter sauce (Cassolette d'escargots aux noisettes en hommage à Monsieur Cleuvenot [a lucky man was M. Cleuvenot]). Snails in butter is, of course, cliche, but not here. It was the touch of hazelnut and champagne that created transcendence from the mundane. With the snails and the nuts, I was presented with two earthy elements made ethereal through champagne and (oh yes!) the butter. The hazelnut oil combined with the butter in such as way as to make the snails seem newly fashioned, a more complex escargot but with neither chef nor diner forgetting that the dish was about the snail.

I selected black bass as my fish course: black sea bass barigoule, fresh herb and artichoke fricassee (Loup en barigoule avec son émulsion à l'huile d'olive, fricassée d'artichauts et ses herbes fraiches). Chilean sea bass has become rather common these days, but loup is somewhat rarer. I find that it has a slightly stronger, more assertive taste. It is a fish that can dance with a flavorful olive oil. Artichokes are not a garnish that goes with everything, but it certainly did with the olive oil and herbs. As with so many of chef Perrier's dishes this was a dish that appeared simpler on the plate than in the mouth.

The meat course was Pennsylvania rack of lamb, lupini beans and bell pepper fricassee, garlic confit, lamb jus and chorizo emulsion (the geographical descriptor is perhaps to placate local boosters - would it have mattered if the lambkins had swum across the Delaware River? And did those lupinis have their green card?). (Carré d'agneau de Pennsylvanie servi avec sa Basquaise, purée de lupins et ail confit, jus d'agneau et émulsion de chorizo). I admit that I didn't notice the chorizo and just as well.

The lamb was perfectly prepared. I couldn't imagine it needing a millisecond of more or less heat (and couldn't understand some fellow diners who insisted it their way. This ain't Sizzler). A noble lamb rack doesn't need much except itself and a whiff of garlic. The lupini and bell peppers (one mild, the other forceful) nicely set off the purity of the lamb. This is dining without artificial lights and fireworks. No need for a highwire when one stands on clouds.

After a cassis sorbet, we reached the fine cheese tray and then a dessert tray that again reached for the transcendence of simplicity: pineapple in a ginger jus, a tart that was the essence of lemon, and a definitive Philadelphia cheesecake (I insist that classic under-sweetened New York cheesecake has no equal).

Georges Perrier is a chef from the days that a chef was a worker, from the days that craftsmanship mattered, and from a day in which simplicity rather than elaboration - taste not decoration - mattered. Even the setting was the traditional Parisian salon (I prefer my architecture modernist, but, no matter, nostalgia has its virtues).

←

Great write up! I worked at Le Bec Fin for 5 1/2 years in my former life and I can say that to this day that I have never had snails anywhere as well done as they are at Le Bec. It is nice to see you appreciate the delicate quality that Georges brings to his cuisine. I find him not unlike other great French chefs of his era. Recently, I ate at French Laundry and Alain Duccass. Although the menu's are different at each I left with the feeling of a perfectly prepared meal. No room for improvement. No surprises either.

Interestingly, I was in Le Bec for glass of champagne on Monday evening with a friend and Georges was sitting at the bar. Looking quite sad I might say. I asked him how he was and he said things are slow, people just do not get him anymore. They want Steven Starr. I sat and thought I guess it is hard to have been on top and there is no where to go but down. He has the silver toque, 5 stars, voted best restaurant in the country, where do you go from there? But he continues on and it's nice to see that he is still appreciated for what he is, a fine french chef.

[Behemoth]

Interestingly, I was in Le Bec for glass of champagne on Monday evening with a friend and Georges was sitting at the bar.  Looking quite sad I might say.  I asked him how he was and he said things are slow, people just do not get him anymore.  They want Steven Starr.  I sat and thought I guess it is hard to have been on top and there is no where to go but down.  He has the silver toque, 5 stars, voted best restaurant in the country, where do you go from there?  But he continues on and it's nice to see that he is still appreciated for what he is, a fine french chef.

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Wow, that is really depressing. Steven Starr restaurants. Feh.

[gaf]

Dimic's was terrific. We do have our share of pork sandwiches out here, but they tend to be breaded pork tenderloin. Dimic's is more of a French dip type sandwich - swimming in "jus."

←

gaf, at risk of placing you in jeopardy within earshot of any El, isn't DiNic's pork sandwich (or John's or Tony Luke's) an improvement upon Chicago's Italian Beef? I've yet to have one of the latter (as good as some of them are) that matches up to a Philly pork sandwich. Tommy DiNic, btw, also does a beef sandwich in the same style as his pork one.

←

There is quite a range of Italian beef out here in Chicago. Much of it is quite mediocre, I must confess - although I imagine that this is true of Philly pork sandwiches.

However, Johnnie's out in Elmwood Park is really transcendent. It is an ideal mix of meat, relishes, and a beautiful crusty bun. If you come out this way, I'll take you there.

As for the general point, I'd need to try more pork sandwiches to see how they compare with the good versions of the Italian Beef sandwiches, such as Al's. But there is no doubt that Dimic's makes an awfully fine sandwich.

[Capaneus]

Interestingly, I was in Le Bec for glass of champagne on Monday evening with a friend and Georges was sitting at the bar.  Looking quite sad I might say.  I asked him how he was and he said things are slow, people just do not get him anymore.  They want Steven Starr.  I sat and thought I guess it is hard to have been on top and there is no where to go but down.  He has the silver toque, 5 stars, voted best restaurant in the country, where do you go from there?  But he continues on and it's nice to see that he is still appreciated for what he is, a fine french chef.

←

Wow, that is really depressing. Steven Starr restaurants. Feh.

←

It *sucks*!

LBF was where I learned that food could be art. I took my then-wife there because it was "fancy" - if it isn't clear yet, I had absolutely no kind of clue. I first loved them because they made her feel like gold, and she was really uncertain about belonging. But the epiphany came when I had the rack of lamb. I'd never had food that was as *true*, as truly realized, as that dish was. I'd never *imagined* food like that

But he costs more than I can afford, and I will afford a lot more than I should. I cannot (financially) dare to love his food, and I would dearly love to. I'm sorry, but when I look at the price structures of his competition, I cannot help but think that he has dug... about two-thirds of his grave, shall we say.

I wish him all the best, but I would rather be able to put my wallet where my mouth is.

[sockii]

I wish him all the best, but I would rather be able to put my wallet where my mouth is.

←

I'm with you on that.

I had the pleasure of being treated to a meal at LBF last year, and it was absolutely one of the most--if not THE most--memorable meals of my life. Truly outstanding dining, service, and elegance--but WAY outside of what this struggling artist can afford, except maybe once a year, tops (and probably for lunch, at that...)

[shacke]

I wish him all the best, but I would rather be able to put my wallet where my mouth is.

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I'm with you on that.

I had the pleasure of being treated to a meal at LBF last year, and it was absolutely one of the most--if not THE most--memorable meals of my life. Truly outstanding dining, service, and elegance--but WAY outside of what this struggling artist can afford, except maybe once a year, tops (and probably for lunch, at that...)

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Lunch at LBF was one of the best deals in the city and you got the endless dessert cart. Think price has increased but I suspect it is still a deal relative to dinner.

Evan

[JohnL]

Interestingly, I was in Le Bec for glass of champagne on Monday evening with a friend and Georges was sitting at the bar.  Looking quite sad I might say.  I asked him how he was and he said things are slow, people just do not get him anymore.  They want Steven Starr.  I sat and thought I guess it is hard to have been on top and there is no where to go but down.  He has the silver toque, 5 stars, voted best restaurant in the country, where do you go from there?  But he continues on and it's nice to see that he is still appreciated for what he is, a fine french chef.

←

Wow, that is really depressing. Steven Starr restaurants. Feh.

←

It *sucks*!

LBF was where I learned that food could be art. I took my then-wife there because it was "fancy" - if it isn't clear yet, I had absolutely no kind of clue. I first loved them because they made her feel like gold, and she was really uncertain about belonging. But the epiphany came when I had the rack of lamb. I'd never had food that was as *true*, as truly realized, as that dish was. I'd never *imagined* food like that

But he costs more than I can afford, and I will afford a lot more than I should. I cannot (financially) dare to love his food, and I would dearly love to. I'm sorry, but when I look at the price structures of his competition, I cannot help but think that he has dug... about two-thirds of his grave, shall we say.

I wish him all the best, but I would rather be able to put my wallet where my mouth is.

←

Unfortunately, the direction of the restaurant "scene" these days seems to be toward, just that, a "scene." Restaurants have become "hot" destinations "you gotta go!" These places are falling over themselves to create that "scene" with striking decor, garish lighting, plenty of bar area, lottsa buzz --noise really. (check out any of Mr Starr's "scenes." )

Then there are the chefs around whom many of these "scenes" are built. Hot chefs, "artistes", clebrities as big as those who flock to the "scene."-- "where's so and so these days? --we gotta go! " Many of these chefs are looking to "dazzle" the palate to "shock" us to suprise us--because--well--the food is now a "scene." Chefs are "pushing the envelope" in attempts to be unique to live up to the press, the "buzz."

Can't find a hot chef (or wanna pay one)--that's ok--get a hot consulting chef or anyone that can "design" a dish. Yes, sometimes it seems as though chefs today are designing dishes, we hear about architecture--"tall food" etc (Mr Portale) or "product" food is like construction materials.

At first chefs looked to "reinvent" the classics, hence steak tartare becomes tuna tartare now chefs are "deconstructing the classics!

Let's see steak tartare? Ok I will put some raw sliced beef on the plate here and then I'll put an anchovy over here, how about a raw egg yolk right here.....

My point is- yes, a lot of this "scene" stuff works but people like Mr Perriere who aren't about suprising or startling diners--who don't espouse "new" ways of cooking or looking at food--they don't have great appeal to the foodies who, yes, respect them but are really looking to be startled and amazed--dazzled, if you will. And Mr Perrier is not as interested in creating a "scene" --ever look at the bar space in LBF? His idea of a scene is Brasserie Perrier next door--he does the decor and bar thing but he's not going all the way with "scene food."

I had many wonderful meals at Bec Fin. I also had a number of very good meals at the first iteration of Striped Bass the food was simpler more "classic" there--the stunning decor was enough in those days--simple food, striking environment. Mr Starr knows he must push the envelope more he's gotta deliver a "scene" by today's standards.

It would be interesting to see what he would do with Bec Fin!

One would hope he never gets the chance and one hopes there is room for Mr. Perrier in any gastronomic "scene."

One hopes that there is room for marimoto AND Susannah Foo.

One hopes..............

[mrbigjas]

But he costs more than I can afford, and I will afford a lot more than I should. I cannot (financially) dare to love his food, and I would dearly love to. I'm sorry, but when I look at the price structures of his competition, I cannot help but think that he has dug... about two-thirds of his grave, shall we say.

I wish him all the best, but I would rather be able to put my wallet where my mouth is.

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what he said. i wish i could afford le bec fin, but at $138/person, plus wine, it's just not an option for me--i just don't have $4-500 to drop on dinner for two right now.

[philadining]

While Perrier's cooking at LBF is not as trendy or showy as some of the newer guys, let's not pretend that there's not a "scene" there. The lavish decor, the formally-dressed waiters, the silver plate domes, the groaning dessert cart: these are every big as much theatrical elements as color-changing booths or Buddhas or silly cocktails. A different style, for sure, and meant to appeal to a different crowd, but I'm just cynical enough to think that as many people go to Le Bec Fin for the experience of being there as do to revel in Perrier's food. And the show is a big component of why it costs so much to eat there.

That's neither good nor bad, just one factor in attracting and impressing diners, a factor that Starr has mastered brilliantly for a younger demographic. I think we should be careful to not presume that, because the "scenesters" are older, richer and more conservatively dressed, they are concerned only with the skills of the kitchen, and somehow more able to discern culinary quality. And I don't think one can blame Starr if diners are so easily lured away by shiny baubles.

If it weren't for that Darn rock and roll, people would still be listening to classical music, like they're supposed to!!

I know the larger point was about the trendiness of the actual food on the plate. Of course flash for flash's sake grows tiresome quickly. I have great respect for those striving for perfection in a classic style, but I'm reluctant to declare that pursuit more valid than experimentation and innovation.

There's transcendent music, and self-indulgent excess, emanating from the Kimmel Center, Tritone, the Slought Foundation and the Khyber most nights. And I wouldn't say that any of them is inherently superior. A listener might prefer one over another, one performer might display more technical skill than another, but the energy and enjoyment and aesthetic thrill won't be more "real" at one place than the other.

Which is a long way of saying that I think George Perrier is a culinary treasure, and I'm glad he's still cooking here in Philly. But I'm glad the other spots are here too.

[JohnL]

I think that cost is only one factor in the equation.

LBF and Striped Bass are going after the same income demo.

Just as Rouge and Brasserie Perrier are going after a specific income demo.

The real issue is the people who comprise those demos--what turns them on?

Unfortunately, I think that the folks who used to partronize LBF (more old money-the regulars) are "dying" off a bit and boomers (new money) are replacing them.

These new folks can afford LBF but would rather spend their bucks in Marimoto or Striped Bass or many other newer "expensive" places.

Also those people who are not able to be "regulars" due to income restrictions are more apt to look at newer "hipper" places the few times a year they can "splurge" further depleting the potential "audience" for places like LBF--"hey guess where we ate last nite!" crowd.--it just isn't a status/hip thing to eat at LBF anymore.

So-a lot of the dining scene is really contingent upon the demographics and psychographics of the market place!

Thank the Lord that Mr Starr is not taking over Pat's anytime soon!!!

[JohnL]

While Perrier's cooking at LBF is not as trendy or showy as some of the newer guys, let's not pretend that there's not a "scene" there. The lavish decor, the formally-dressed waiters, the silver plate domes, the groaning dessert cart: these are every big as much theatrical elements as color-changing booths or Buddhas or silly cocktails. A different style, for sure, and meant to appeal to a different crowd, but I'm just cynical enough to think that as many people go to Le Bec Fin for the experience of being there as do to revel in Perrier's food. And the show is a big component of why it costs so much to eat there.

That's neither good nor bad, just one factor in attracting and impressing diners, a factor that Starr has mastered brilliantly for a younger demographic.  I think we should be careful to not presume that, because the "scenesters" are older, richer and more conservatively dressed, they are concerned only with the skills of the kitchen, and somehow more able to discern culinary quality.  And I don't think one can blame Starr if diners are so easily lured away by shiny baubles.

If it weren't for that Darn rock and roll, people would still be listening to classical music, like they're supposed to!!

I know the larger point was about the trendiness of the actual food on the plate. Of course flash for flash's sake grows tiresome quickly. I have great respect for those striving for perfection in a classic style, but I'm reluctant to declare that pursuit more valid than experimentation and innovation.

There's transcendent music, and self-indulgent excess, emanating from the Kimmel Center, Tritone, the Slought Foundation and the Khyber most nights. And I wouldn't say that any of them is inherently superior. A listener might prefer one over another, one performer might display more technical skill than another, but the energy and enjoyment and aesthetic thrill won't be more "real" at one place than the other.

Which is a long way of saying that I think George Perrier is a culinary treasure, and I'm glad he's still cooking here in Philly. But I'm glad the other spots are here too.

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There's nothing wrong with diversity!

And there is no question that LBF is a "scene" however, I would argue that the "scene" at LBV is more in service of the food and enjoyment of that food not the other way around--which is what many "newer" restaurants are.

I would also suggst that there is an element of the emporers new clothes to many newer establishments. They are more about the sizzle than the steak!

Striped bass is an interesting case.

Starr knows he can not glitz up the decor much (it was always high on the glam meter) so he is going to :"foodie up" the menu.--I am sure it is fine (I happen to like Portale a lot--Gotham bar and grill here in NYC). It may work it may not.

Perrier has done a good job at :"modernizing" (maybe too little too late--we'll see).

In the end--as I noted earlier--one hopes that there is room for all these places in the marketplace.

Yes--one reads about the demise of classical music every other week just as I remember people saying rock and roll will never last.

It's the uncertainly that can make life fun!

wanna classic cheesesteak--Pat's

want one with glitzy atmosphere?--Jims

May the choices remain and thrive and expand--we win!