Lyon - Rhone - Provence Restaurant Recs

[Beachfan]

I've read many of the posts with gusto.  However, my focus is narrower than average: my wife is a vegetarian and I don't eat red meat (unless it's in little pieces and has a lot of nitrates and is a minor ingredient; don't ask).

We're happy to provide advance requests.

For example Buerheisel was incredible.  My wife's meal was perhaps even better than mine..  And mine was one of the best I ever had  They had a preplanned vegetarian tasting menu.

At the other end of the spectrum was Ducasse in Paris.  I had the best food and the worse meal due to their treatment of my wife (after confirming her diet needs by fax).

We will be landing in Lyon with 6 days before we go back to Paris.  A natural would be to wind up in Avignon and take the TGV back.  The fact that the 2000 vintage in the Southern Rhone is exceptional doesn't hurt.  And we really loved Christian Ettiene's place last time.

So, any thoughts on which of the all stars might be suitable? Also, we have just as much fun at the Bib Gourmand places as we do at the fancier places.  At those places, my wife is happy with a salad, so vegetarian friendly is less of a concern.  Great wine lists would be a plus.

Also, anyone have experience at the Lyon Hilton?  I wind up at these chains because I have status and points due to business travel (and it isn't all bad, the Strassbourg Hilton is outstanding).  Michelin seems to talk reasonably well about it.

[John Whiting]

It's of no use to you whatsoever, but you should have eaten at the Hotel de France in Auch back in the days when Andre Daguin was still cooking. A dozen years ago or more I ate there with a company of eight which included two vegetarians. Andre came out of the kitchen and consulted with them at length about their likes and dislikes. They said they had never been treated so considerately or served such magnificent food.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Beachfan - You can combine a visit to Ampuis and the Cote Rotie producers with a meal at the Cote Rotie restaurant which is right in the heart of town. The chef Manuel Viron is always preparing Stuart Yangiar, who you must know off of the wine boards, a delicious vegetarian meal. Thing is, the restaurant is scheduled to move from Ampuis to Lyon sometimes in September and I'm not sure which location he will be in when you get there.

[lizziee]

Steve,

Are you refering to the restaurant La Cote Rotie?

[Beachfan]

The chef Manuel Viron is always preparing Stuart Yangiar, who you must know off of the wine boards, a delicious vegetarian meal.

Great tip Steve. Not only the restaurant, but I should shoot Stuart Y a note.

Merci beaucoup!

[Beachfan]

Any other tips?  Surely Steve and John are not the only ones who notices vegetables or the lack thereof.

I'll narrow the question in case enivison oneself as a vegetarian is too offputting to generate a reply:

What top restaurants have vegetables promintently featured on their menu?

[Bux]

I associate Lyon with tripe in all forms. Of course salad Lyonnaise is a classic and all cafes as well as most inexpensive restaurants will have a salade generally as a first course in a restaurant. In cafes and brasseries one can just take a salad.

There´s a renewed interest in vegetables in France, but for the most part they still don´t take center stage. More enlightened restaurants will feature vegetables as a first course or in courses along the way in a multicoursed gastronomic menu.

[Beachfan]

More enlightened restaurants will feature vegetables as a first course or in courses along the way in a multicoursed gastronomic menu.

Any examples in the Provence/Rhone area?

[dallardice]

Any examples in the Provence/Rhone area?

At the Ducasse country inns, La Bastide de Moustiers, and L'Hostellerie de L'Abbaye de la Celle, vegetables featured quite strongly on both menus - I remember in particular a fantastic asparagus starter at Moustiers.

I see that today's menu at Moustiers (www.bastide-moustiers.com) has two vegetable-based courses before the main, while la Celle (http://www.abbaye-celle.com/) is more meat and fish-based now.

Fine, if not exceptional food at both, but lovely rooms and excellent service.  La Celle is in Southern Provence and Moustiers on the eastern edge.

[Beachfan]

Any examples in the Provence/Rhone area?

At the Ducasse country inns, La Bastide de Moustiers, and L'Hostellerie de L'Abbaye de la Celle, vegetables featured quite strongly on both menus - I remember in particular a fantastic asparagus starter at Moustiers.

Interestingly enough, my wife might be ready to let Ducasse off her "damned for life" list. It seems that the memories of the best asparagaus she ever had are pushing out the most condescending treatment of a vegetarian she ever experienced (peas and carrots for the entree).

[cabrales]

I have visited La Celle and Bastide during the last year. In my assessment, La Celle offers better food than Bastide, even though it is the latter that recently garnered a Michelin star. In fact, B Witz (the chef formerly at Bastide) is now at La Celle. Neither place offers particularly good food, but note I have not particularly liked Ducasse's style at any of his establishments.