Dinner at Perigee

[GordonCooks]

Here's a sneak preview of my upcoming review

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TEASE!!!!

[GordonCooks]

Amuse

Plump oysters with caviar - firm yet tender, extremely fresh. A perfect way to tune our tastebuds and prepare us for what was to come

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MENU

SATURDAY, JUNE 18, 2005

A couple of the local food writers had been picking my brain about Toronto for some time. One of the group writes a more of a ethnically cheap-eats column (Adam Wilcox) and the other writes about food and wine(Michael Warren Thomas) in general. We all decided upon a day of eating on my suggestions. The MWT was enthused by my choice of Perigee having interviewed Victor Brown last year but the AW was only mildly interested due to his experiences at temples of haughty cuisine served with attitude. My meals at Perigee have never even hinted at such; I was curious how the restaurant would handle his textbook question of “I don’t drink, what do you have to offer” This challenge was met and surmounted with panache and incredible success. On to the food – it was not my plan to play photographer (due to the fact I’ve done it twice before) but neither of my partners remembered to bring a camera so I was it. Not my best photos due to the fact a couple of the courses were gobbled up before my camera auto-focused (sorry, not my fault)

PRE AMUSE

FRESHLY SCHUCKED VILLAGE BAY OYSTERS WITH OSETRA CAVIAR

DUCK AMUSE

SALAD OF DUCK GIZZARD CONFIT, FRISSE AND SHERRY VINAIGRETTE

WITH CRUSHED WALNUTS AND SHERRY SAUCE

LIME CURED ROAST DUCK BREAST OVER SMOKED CORN SAUCE

WITH BLACK BEAN PURÉE AND CORRIANDER SPROUTS

THICK SLICED DUCK “HAM” WITH PINEAPPLE SALSA, CRUSHED

GIOZA AND BASIL

LILLET, GIRONDE, FRANCE N.V.

The salad was an excellent blend of textures with crisp frisee and chewy gizzard confit, crunchy walnuts, orchestrated by just the right amount of acid in the vinaigrette. The Duck ham was very tender and was best-enjoyed ensemble with the salsa, gioza, and basil in one bite. I didn’t get a taste of the Lime cured Duck (one of our dining partners had a tendency to “dig right in”) but I was told that the deft hand with the sauces did not overpower the flavorful duck.

TUNA COURSE

VITTELLO TONNATO. THINLY SLICED TUNA WRAPPING BRAISED VEAL CHEEK ON LIME AIOLI, FRIED CAPERS AND PEPPERCRESS WITH SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE

GRILLED YELLOW FIN TUNA STEAK ON POTATO COMPOTE, GREEN BEAN HAZELNUT SALAD AND POMMERY MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE

SEARED TUNA ON ARTICHOKE, FAVA BEAN AND TOMATO STEW WITH SHISO GARNIISH

ST. URBANS-HOF, PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN, RIESLING KABINET, MOSEL SAAR RUWER, GERMANY 2003

KANGARILLA ROAD, VIOGNIER, MCLAREN VALE, AUSTRALIA 2004

Fresh tuna wrapped around crunchy sweetbreads – mama mia! The tomato stew featured fresh favas and made for a hearty, yet light accompaniment (something I could have eaten a big bowl of) The potato compote with pommery mustard vinaigrette was the chef’s interesting play on German potato salad (which I love and now enjoy deconstructed). All very European flavors and a nice departure from Tuna’s Asian treatment it receives most of the time.

Cont.

[GordonCooks]

LOBSTER COURSE

LOBSTER ON CHUNKY SWEET PEA SAUCE WITH ROAST MOREL MUSHROOMS, PORK BELLY AND

CRUSHED FRIED CHICK PEAS

LOBSTER IN FINES HERBS BUTTER SAUCE WITH WILD MUSHROOMS FINISHED WITH CRISPY

FRIED ROAST GARLIC TORTELINI

BUTTER POACHED LOBSTER ON CORN FLAN WITH FENNEL SALAD AND CHIVE

VERMOUTH CREAM

DOMAINE VACHERON, SANCERRE, FRANCE 2003

TERZETTO, TOCAI FRIULANO, CENTRAL COAST, CALIFORNIA U.S.A. 2000

From the looks of the photo – you can tell that some people just don’t get enough lobster. The silky, corn flan was dee-lish, the sauces were all excellent, but the sweet pea, morels, pork belly, and chick peas nosed the others out by a hair. Personally, a buttery lobster tail can be tasty but not hearty – the pairing of the meaty morels and pork gave this dish some extra “oomph”

~

FISH & SEAFOOD PLATTER

POMPANO AND ROCAZ ON WARM PEA AND FAVA BEAN CRUSH

OCTOPUS TENDRILS ON MARINATED ZUCHINI WITH SOUR CREAM DRESSING

SOFT SHELL CRAB ON MANGO PANNA COTTA WITH CORRIANDER MIXED PEPPER SALAD

GRILLED CALAMARI ON CUCUMBER SALAD WITH AVOCADO AND CRISP TORTILLAS

JAPANESE DIVER SCALLOPS ON BALSAMIC RUDUCTION AND TOASTED PECAN CABBAGE SLAW

JACKY BLOT, “LA TAILLE AU LOUPS”, BRUT TRADITION, MONTLOUIS, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE N.V.

I actually had to scold my fellow diners to “wait a minute” Soft Shell with the mano panne cotta (more mango tart than sweet – went well with the crust on the Soft Shell.) The calamari and octopus were both very tender and the scallops had a perfect crust on top. All combos had a very distinct Mediterranean flavor – very “San Sebastian” I could sit around with a bucket of any of these and a bottle of vino verdhe.

cont

[GordonCooks]

FOIE GRAS COURSE

SEARED AND CURED FOIE GRAS ON CREAMY POLENTA WITH RHUBARB COMPOTE, FRIED

CORNBREAD AND SHERRY SAUCE

BATTER FRIED MOREL MUSHROOMS STUFFED WITH CURED FOIE GRAS ON TOP OF SEARED FOIE GRAS IN JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SOUP

FOIE GRAS TORCHON ON CHILLED GREEN ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH POACHED WHITE ASPARAGUS, FRESH CHERRIES AND SALAD OF PICKLED WHITE ASPARAGUS, PEPPERCRESS AND TOASTED PUMPKIN SEEDS

ROLLY GASSMANN, PINOT AUXERROIS, ALSACE, FRANCE 1999

CAVE SPRING CELLARS, INDIAN SUMMER RIESLING, JORDAN, CANADA, 2003

My fault on this one – I mean when I see foie gras, seared and cured on the same plate – I lose it. It’s a shame I didn’t get a picture of these plates as they were some of the more complicated and colorful presentations. Rhubarb is something I don’t eat often due to it’s partnering with cloyingly sweet strawberries. The rhubarb took on a different profile in the dish and made me want to attempt copying it at home. The wine pairing of an Pinot Auxerrois went perfectly with my foie dish showing some aromatics, medium acidity, and ripe fruit rather than sugary sweet – a fine match that I never would have even thought of.. I always wonder how difficult it must be to pair some of these dishes but Sommelier Michael Brown always does a great job.

~

BEEF COURSE

SESAME CRUSTED FRIED SWEETBREADS ON BUTTERED RAGOUT OF RHUBARB,

TOASTED ALMONDS AND DRIED SOUR CHERRIES

TRIPE STEW TOPPED WITH SOFT POACHED MINI HEN’S EGG AND PARMESAN FRICOS

BEEF CARPACCIO WITH ROAST SWEETBREADS IN A SALAD OF FRIED CAPERS, WATERCRESS AND FRESH PEAR FINISHED WITH BLEU D’AUVERGNE CHEESE AND ONION COMPOTE

WHALE HAVEN, PINOT NOIR, EGLIN, SOUTH AFRICA 1999

MALIVOIRE, SINGLE BLOCK GAMAY, NIAGARA PENINSULA, CANADA 2002

Mm’mm meat! Mm’mm Sweetbreads …a more savory treatment of rhubarb that went quite well with the crisp and tender sweetbreads. Tripe? Not a big fan but this stewed version was tender and toothsome with the egg lending richness and balance to the tomatoes. The carpaccio when eaten with a little of everything was quite complex in taste and texture. It had a very familiar flavor I just can’t put my finger on -

[GordonCooks]

CHARCUTERIE PLATE

SEARED TESTINA WITH GRAPE COMPOTE

LAMB KIBBEH WITH BANANA PEPPER SLAW

WILD GAME AND GAME BIRD TERRINES WITH PLUM JAM

CREAM OF MUSHROOM SOUP TERRINE WITH TRUFFLED SOY VINAIGRETTE

FRIED GUINEA HEN BALLOTINE LAYERED WITH ROAST SHREDDED HEN AND AVOCADO

BRAISED PORK POT PIE ON CABBAGE SPROUT SALAD

L. VITTEAUT- ALBERTI, CREMANT DE BOURGOGNE, ROSÉ, FRANCE N.V.

House made charcuterie is something few restaurants do and even fewer do well. One of our party was a devout kibbeh expert and he deemed this one, outstanding. The terrines were very flavorful and toothsome. Had I known the pork pie was so tasty, I would have stolen the entire pie. Cream of mushroom terrine? Exactly like a hearty cream of mushroom soup. I’m still trying to figure how it was solidified – I’m thinking a mushroom stock, cream and gelatin sheets…maybe? The other items were enjoyed without sharing – this is what I get for sharing the pork pie.

~

MELON INTERMEZZOS

VODKA SOAKED WATERMELON ON BERGAMONT SABAYON WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR AND POPPED AMARANTH

CANTALOUPE MELON AND LYCHEE SALSA WITH TOASTED CASHEWS IN KIWI SOUP

GRILLED HONEYDEW MELON AND PEAR IN A SAKI AND PLUM GLAZE

Once again, slurp, no picture – all unique and light enough to sharpen the taste buds for the upcoming meat course.

~

BISON MAIN COURSE

SMOKED BISON TENDERLOIN ON:

HORSERADISH SAUCE WITH PICKLED BEETS AND A SALAD OF FRISSE WITH GOAT’S CHEESE AND

CHEWY FRIED CROUTONS

ROAST PARSNIP HASH WITH WILTED BRUSSEL SPROUT LEAVES AND VERONESE PEPPER BREAD

CRUMB SAUCE

ROAST MOUSSERON MUSHROOMS WITH BRAISED MUSTARD GREENS AND BLACK TRUFFLE JUS

IRON HORSE VINEYARDS, SANGIOVESE, ALEXANDER VALLEY, CALIFORNIA, U.S.A. 2000

PIO CESARE, BAROLO, ITALY 1999

Mmm’mmm Beef….My Bison dish featured the wilted brussel leaves – these are memorable to me because I see the chef holding these little brussel sprouts as he peels the tender outer leaves off leaving the bitter center out. The mousseron mushrooms are these minute specimens with an earthy flavored the belies their size. The meat is always perfectly cooked, fork tender, and correctly salted – something a lot of steak houses in my area can’t seem to accomplish.

Cont – yes, there’s still more

[GordonCooks]

CHEESE COURSE

BOUCHON LYONAISSE RAW GOAT’S MILK CHEESE FROM LYON, FRANCE AND LE PAVIN FROM AUVERGNE, FRANCE WITH APRICOT CARPACCIO, CRUSHED AMARETTI COOKIE AND HONEY

SIX-YEAR-OLD GOUDA FROM HOLLAND AND FIFTEEN YEAR OLD CHEDDAR FROM OTTAWA WITH ROAST PORK, RYE CRISP, GREEN TOMATO SORBET AND SCOTCH WHISKEY GLAZE

CASHEL COW’S MILK BLUE CHEESE FROM TIPPERARY COUNTY, IRELAND AND L’ERMITE SHEEP’S MILK BLUE CHEESE FROM QUEBEC ON DATE BUTTERED BAGUETTE BREAD WITH PINE NUT PASTRY CREAM AND SLICED PEAR

PLOYEZ-JAQUEMART, BRUT, BLANCS DE BLANC, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE 1996

The cheeses are always unique – the most for me being 15-year-old cheddar with its hard texture and pleasantly pungent flavor. I don’t think I’ve ever had a cheese I didn’t like. The accoutrements were tasty as well – green tomato sorbet? Go figure, delicious.

~

APPLE PRE DESSERTS

SHAVED FRESH YOUNG COCONUT AND APPLE SALAD WITH RHUBARB GELÉE

MINI APPLE GALETTE WITH GINGER CREAM ANGLAISE

APPLE SAUCE MOUSSE WITH GRANNY SMITH APPLE SOUP AND OAT CRISP

The shaved young coconut was very tasty – coconut texture but lighter and almost “pasta-like” but a little firmer.

~

CHOCOLATE DESSERTS

CHOCOLATE BROWNIES WITH WINE MARINADED STRAWBERRIES ON WHITE CHOCOLATE AND MASCARPONE MOUSSE WITH WHITE CHOCOLATE AND ESPRESSO BEAN BARK

SPICED CHOCOLATE MOUSSE ON CORNMEAL SPONGE CAKE WITH MANGO JAM AND

SWEET AVOCADO CILANTRO SAUCE

CEDAR GELÉE MARSHMALLOW DIPPED IN BITTER CHOCOLATE ON A MILK CHOCOLATE

SABAYON WITH GRAHAM CRUMBS

CAMPBELLS, RUTHERGLEN MUSCAT, AUSTRALIA, N.V.

ROYAL TOKAJI WINE CO., 5 PUTTONYOS TOKAJI AZSU, HUNGARY 1999

Chocolate? Yes, they do chocolate quite well. Chewy brownies, feather light mousse, house made marshmallow, cornmeal sponge, …whew, where’s the coffee?

One twist that one of my party threw in was that he was a non-drinker. Typically, he is left with a glass of juice or water in situations such as this (and earlier when we visited Jamie Kennedy’s) Upon ordering, he inquired what they had for a non-drinker – they quickly responded “We’ll come up with something for you – and something they did. Each and every course was paired with a non-alcoholic beverage – and these matches were quite good to boot. A virgin cosmopolitan, a fresh brewed tea from dried berries, a bloody Caesar, etc, etc…this made quite the impression on our friend.

In conclusion – yet another wonderfully, relaxing, challenging, informative, satiating, humorous, and impressive dining experience. None of the pretension you can get at this level, just service with a smile and a can-do attitude does wonders. Yes, we were sad when it was over but as I said “You get to look forward to next time” Next time you’re in Toronto – go to Perigee. If you don’t have plans to go to Toronto, make them – you won’t be sorry..any questions?

[GordonCooks]

One of my co-diners wrote about our Toronto excursion in this weeks city newspaper

Adam Wilcox writes:

".........if anybody tells you he knows what the best restaurant in Toronto is, throw the appeal to authority fallacy at them. I do know you could spend a lifetime in that city and not exhaust its possibilities (this generalization based upon my small sample size risks the fallacy of composition). Furthermore, I know I've never had a better meal than mine at Perigee."

Edited July 22, 2005 by GordonCooks (log)