Paris Resto Report - Florimond, Leo le Lion

[OAKGLEN]

LE FLORIMOND, 19 Ave. de la Motte-Picquet, a Bib Gourmand Michelin

recommendation, and is a favorite of both locals and tourists. Reservations are a must; we saw many people being turned away. We started with entrees of lobster ravioli, just OK with a generic sauce, and a green salad, super fresh with a fine vinegar & oil dressing, and then confit of duck, tender and juicy with all fat rendered out, accompanied with a bit of salad and the best garlic fried potatoes ever, crisp and not greasy. A risotto dish with crab and smoked salmon was rich and tasty.

With a bottle of Badoit and a decent bordeaux ( the vin carte is full of reasonably priced wines; mostly smaller bottlers) the tab came to 78E for two, a great value.

LEO LE LION, 23 rue Duviver, is relatively new, and while about the same size as Le Florimond, this restaurant is more upscale, with higher prices, more complex dishes and larger servings. Our group of four all ordered off the special daily menu which consisted of several options for entrees and plats. Prices were ala carte; they have prix-fixe menus for lunch and dinner that go up to 47E.

We all started with the white asparagus; the spears, about eight in all, were relatively small, perfectly cooked and served with two sauces, a mustarde vinagrette and a light, sour cream-based sauce. Superb. Plats included Langustines, eight in all, served over a bed of mushroom risotto, and roasted Turbot with truffles, a light mushroom sauce and a mixture of spinach, scallions, carrots and zucchini vegetables.

The deserts were outstanding; a large plate of profiteroles, clearly made to order, warm chocolate cake with creme anglaise & mint, and a light fruit brochette with three sorbets (coconut, raspberry & lemon) on a light sauce of raspberries & mint. All were so good!

The only downside was an obtrusive waiter who became a real pain by the end of the evening. He did speak English well and did recommend a excellent wine, a 2001 Chateau Couchenoy, Pessac Graves, that was cheaper and superior to the one I had picked out. Total bill: 65E per person.

BRASSERIE BALZAR, 49 rue des Ecoles, was packed with locals; we were the only tourists I could identify. Now I know the kitchen is not what it used to be, and in truth, we have not been back for several years, but for reasons I do not clearly understand, this is the most up-beat, happy place to be found in Paris, in my opinion. The wait staff and customers always seem to be enjoying themselves; we had a great time too. Entrees included white asparagus, served with the traditional Hollandaise sauce, Assiette crudite and escargots. Plats included Poulet Roti avec frites (slightly overcooked), steak tartare (excellent) and Crottin salad. With kir royales, a bottle of Bergerac bordeaux ( the house red is better), a Baba au Rhum, cafe express and Badoit , the bill came to 47E per person.

VIN SUR VIN, 20 rue de Monttessuy, is a tiny one star restaurant near the Tour Eiffel. The feel of the place is more like a private home than commercial establishment. We were given what I assume is the “American” table, off to one side and separated from the five tables in the main room. Only one other table for two was occupied when we were there for a long lunch. Service was impeccable; the staff of two is headed by the Maitre’d/ Sommelier who decanted both bottles of our wine, a nice touch. For reasons I do not understand, he refused to give us a copy of the paper menu at the end of our meal so our comments may not be complete.

The amuse bouche was a lightly fried slice of eggplant with cucumber & parsley ragout; different and superb. Three of us started with an Artichoke entree; the artichoke was diced and then reconstructed in the general shape of the plant and covered with finely shredded Jicama, sliced truffles, bacon bits and roast garlic. This may have been the single best dish of our Paris visit! The other entree was Lapin, prepared three ways, it was quickly ingested before I could get a good look at the dish.

The plats included Rouget with ratatouille wrapped in seaweed with a light mustard sauce, a free-range chicken dish (the only so-so offering), the day’s special of Sole served with quenelles of mashed potato flavored with a garlic, butter sauce and a Lamb dish.

For dessert, two cheese plates were offered, one consisted of various goat cheeses and the other disappeared before I got a taste. A Chocolate cake with Chocolate ice cream and a superb lemon tarte completed the desert course. Almond crisps & bittersweet chocolate candies were served with our coffee.

Wines included a 2002 Savennier Domaine aux Moines and a great 2000 Jamet Cote Rotie (half bottle). Including Kir Royales at the beginning of our repast, the total bill came to 105E per person; a true value for food that rivals the best of the starred restaurants we have visited over the years.

JK & M.E. PETERSON, TUCSON