Tarte Tatin: Merged topics

[Suvir Saran]

I love Tarte Tatin and was dissapointed with what I ate around Paris.

I do not remember going to any special place looking for it, but tried it in several bistros.  My fault I assume.

Where does one get a great Tarte Tatin in Paris?

Does anyone know?

[Steve Plotnicki]

Suvir - Can't help you off the top of my head but, you should go down to your nearest bookstore and look through a copy of Gourmet Paris by Emmanuel Rubin. He is the food critic fro one of the major Paris daily newspapers and his book is laid out by where to get the best of each dish. I'm not sure he has a listing for Tarte Tartin but I know he has one for Baba Rhum so it'sd worth a shot.

[Suvir Saran]

Thanks Steve!

[John Whiting]

Rubin's Gourmet Paris is a great idea with a lot of useful information, but I would treat it with extreme caution. The author (authors?) must not have checked out the recommendations, since two pages of cassoulet specialists, which include the reliable Trou Gascon, also include Domaine de Lintillac, where the cassoulet comes straight out of their own proprietary tin can and is the worst I've ever experienced. That's not just an off night, that's an off life.

The very short list for tarte tatin includes Pierre au Palais-Royal, with the cryptic comment, "The traditional tarte tatin still makes an appearance, though upside down . . ." But the tarte tatin *is* upside down. Does that mean that there it's right side up?

[Bux]

Tarte Tatin is not something I've looked for in Paris, either in restaurants or patisseries, so I haven't noticed it. A friend who spends more time in Paris than I do and whose opinion I trust told me it's more often served in cafes in Paris than in "real" restaurants and that it's rarely seen in patisseries as it's best served minutes from the oven.

She mentioned that she had a wonderful tarte tatin, subtlely flavored with tea, at the Mariage Freres tea salon on rue des Grands Augustins in the 6th arrondisement, but that it's not always on their menu.

Best I've had in NY may have been Claudia Flemming's at Gramercy Tavern, but I haven't noticed it on the menu recently. Le Jardin Bistro, intrerestingly enough, had a very good tarte Tatin, but I haven't had it in a very long time and Gerrard is no longer cooking there. The food was often uneven as well.

[thefoodhunter]

I once went on a tarte tatin rampage. Went to all the usual places like Mulot, Peltier et al. to try to find the best one. It helps if they are served warm and I bought whole ones to reheat at home to serve with crème fraiche or vanilla bean ice cream. They were all very nice but none blew my mind until by chance I was walking home one wintry afternoon and looked through the window of Tholoniat in the decidely off the beaten path 10th arrondissement on the rue du Château d'Eau (mostly African hair parlors) and I spotted a nice tarte tatin, bought a slice and was swept off my feet by the perfect tart/caramel contrast. Amazing!!!!!!!!!

[Suvir Saran]

Thanks Marc!  That is what I wanted to find... one that would sweep me off my feet.  I make Tarte Tatin and love the contrast between tart and caramel that most never seem to have.  

I will make a trip to Paris for that now.  I love Tarte Tatin.

Well will be in London, so it would be easy to go for a day or two and enjoy a Tarte Tatin rampage as you call it.

[Lesley C]

The best Tarte Tatin I've evr tasted by far, far, far was at Ducasse's La Bastide des Moutiers in Provence. If they serve Tarte Tatin at the Plaza Athenée I'm sure it would be out of this world.

[Suvir Saran]

Lesley do you remember how they prepare the Tarte Tatin?  Is it the rustic style or what chefs are doing these days and calling Tarte Tatin?

[Bux]

Suvir, if it's the caramel you like, find a Kougin-Amann. It's just pastry and caramel. Lots of sugar and butter. They are the "national" pastry of Brittany and the best are found far into Brittany, perhaps in Douarnenez, the city in which they originated. In Paris, le Monde recommends Fauchon for a good example.

[Suvir Saran]

Bux I did have the Fouchon example of Kougin-Amann.  They are good.  I will now have to make it to Brittany.

The pairing of the tartness and caramel nutty sweetness in Tarte Tatin is wonderful.  Also to avoid the apples from getting brown, one can add some lemon juice and that adds that hint of citric tanginess that makes the dessert a great one in my book.

But I have something wonderful to say about all desserts.  I live for them, it seems.

[jaybee]

Suivr, I share your passion for Tart Tatin.  My first taste was at a bistro near the Marais, called A l'Impasse (Chez Robert) following a legendary serving of "Didi's" blanquette de veaux.

I went nuts for it and spent weeks trying to perfect the technique.  After about twenty attempts, I got it down.  Now I'm a happy camper!

I can't think of a more enjoyable dessert than a perfect TT with good creme frais and a glass of sauterne.  

I had some at the source in Lamothe Beuvron at the Hotel where it supposedly originated.  It was very, very good.  I bought eight engraved saucers from the hotel that are reserved for serving this great dish.

[Suvir Saran]

Jaybee do you live in France?

Do you make TT?  What is your recipe?

I follow the one Julia Child has and it is very good.  Better than many I had in Paris.

I need to make the trip for getting my own 8 saucers.

Yes I can be happy eating a good TT with CF and GS.

PS:  CF= Creme Frais, GS = Glass of Sauterne

[jaybee]

Suvir, I live in New York City.  The best TT I've had in Paris was at a bistro in the 7th called Au Petit Tonneau:  20 rue Surcouf. open every day.  Metro La Tour Marbourg  

Tel: 01 47 05 09 01  The place is run by Mme. Ginette Boyer who prepares cuisine de femme.  Her mushroom dishes are not to be missed.  The omelettes, brouillade of mushrooms and scrambled eggs are delicious.  The Tart Tatin was among the best I've had.  So too is the clafoutis.  This is a small, charming place that could easily become a favorite.

You probably know most of the following, but here is the way I make Tart Tatin.

My recipe for TT is based largely on Julia Childs.  I use a 9" or 11" copper, tin lined TT pan.  Mostly I use granny smith apples, sometimes golden delicious. Make the dough according to Child's recipe for basic pate sable.  Wrap in plastic and place in refrigerator. (in a pinch I use Pillsbury Pie Crusts!)  For the caramel, I melt 8 tbs of butter (Normandy Butter is best) and one cup of vanilla sugar (I keep five pounds of this in a tin) in the pan and cook over moderately high heat until the caramel is the color I want.  Dark but not too dark.  Deeper than tan but not earth color. Stir while cooking to see the color at the bottom. (KEY STEP) Take the pan off the heat and set it in a shallow pan in cold water to stop the cooking.  The caramel is done.  Oven is preheated to 425 degrees while this is going on.  

The apples are peeled, cored and sliced into eights, except for one which is just cut in two horizontally.  The apple pieces are macerated in a large bowl with 1/2 cup of vanilla sugar, the juice from one large lemon, lemon zest and some fresh nutmeg and a sprinking of cinnamon. Stir them occasionally to make sure they are all coated with the sugar/lemon juice/apple water mixture.  

Actually I do the apples first so they macerate while I am making the caramel.

After about 30-45 minutes, drain the apples and arrange them to your aesthetic taste on the now hard caramel.  Place the whole cut apple in the center and arrange the slices like a spoke around it.  Two or three layers deep.  Remember you are looking at the bottom, so if you want a pattern, it must be build "upside down".

Place the pan on stove top and cook over moderate heat, covered, until the apples are soft and have absorbed the butter and sugar. (about 20-25 minutes).  Baste with a bulb baster from time time to cover the apples with the molten caramel.

Remove from heat.  Take the dough circle (made according to Child's recipe for pate sable) and place over the apples.  Cut small holes for steam to escape.  Place in preheated over for 20-25 minutes, or until the crust is golden and hard.  Remove from oven.  

The flip:  Place the pie pan on a small cutting board or flat cookie sheet. Place a large serving plate over the pie pan.  Using mits, hold the top plate tightly against the pan, place your other hand on the bottom of the cutting board and turn the whole shebang over.  Lift the hot pie pan off by inserting a knife under the edge, careful not to pull apples off with it.

Let cool somewhat and swerve (having consumed 1/2 bottle of wine while cooking) with creme frais.

How does this compare with your recipe?

Oh boy, I'm going to have to make one this weekend!

[jaybee]

The Source of Tart Tatin

[stefanyb]

Jaybee,

And we at the pot luck almost got a taste of it.  How you taunt us!

[jaybee]

It's always good to have something in reserve, Stefany.  I look forward to the report and the regrets will, I'm sure, be mine.

[Bux]

Here's some more second hand information. In today's Zurban, a what's-up-in-Paris weekly mag, there was a pastry piece and the tarte Tatin at Jean-Paul Hevin was singled out.  Hevin is known primarily as a really, really good chocolatier, but his pastries are often wonderful.  He has a shop on rue Vavin (near the Luxembourg Gardens) and one, with an upstairs tea salon, on rue Saint-Honore.

[Suvir Saran]

Jaybee,

Thanks for the recipe.  We do almost everything similar other than the addition of cinnamon and nutmeg in your recipe.  I add spices when making it as a fusion dish.  Or else, I am happy without any.

I use a cast iron skillet and find that just as successful.  In fact I think Julia Child also uses those.  

Where do I have to go to get a taste of your TT, Jaybee?  I will be ready early to stand on line.

Bux, thanks for the information.

[jaybee]

Where do I have to go to get a taste of your TT, Jaybee?  I will be ready early to stand on line.

And I for yours, Suvir.  Maybe we can meet in Central Park on nice summer afternoon and have a tatin event?

[Suvir Saran]

That sounds like a deal.. maybe I can bring some Indian picnic foods and you the TT.  What say you?

[jaybee]

And me not get the chance to taste your version of TT?  

Uh Uh.  I bet you make a good one!

[thefoodhunter]

Bux: Where do you get Zurban in New York? I love the magazine and will try the Jean-Paul Hevin tatin. We filmed there two years ago and I believe he is the best chocolatier in Paris, maybe even France. His cheese chocolates are astounding and he has a line of "energy" chocolate (ie aphrodisiac) with kola nut, ginger and yohimbine bark that are great.

[Bux]

Marc, I don't get the magazine at all. As I noted this was second hand info from someone I know who has apartments here and in Pars. She uses the same e-mail address from both places, so I don't always know where she is when she sends me e-mail, but I assume she's in Paris from the comment.

While I'd love to get everyone I know to post regularly, I'll also post second hand stuff if I think it will be of interest. I mentioned Zurban because it seemed to be a useful source and it wasn't one with which I was familiar.

It's agreed that Suvir should not leave Hevin without a taste of his chocolates as well as tarte Tatin.

[Suvir Saran]

Bux you are very kind to me.  Thanks for the find.  

Jaybee, your TT would be better than any, cooked in special pans no less.  I will make you a fine Indian picnic meal.  One that would work well with the TT.  What say you?

And maybe next time.. you can cook the savory stuff and I the TT.