A few more

[Florida Jim]

2001 Dominio de Tares, Mencia:

Made from 100% mencia from the Bierzo region, northwest of Madrid, this is the first vintage from this house; the wine smells of ripe, dark cherries, black plums, stones and brown spices; medium body, silky texture, very fine grained tannins, focused yet rich flavors that follow the nose, good concentration, intensity and balance; long and slightly astringent on the finish. Although somewhat more tannic than pinot noir, this shares some of the texture, weight and spice elements of a Côte-de-Nuits, and gives the overall sensation of clarity. It is 13.5% alcohol, $12, surely capable of a medium term shelf life and, perhaps, some development. Imported by Classical Wines, Seattle.

2002 Fevre, Chablis Champs Royaux:

Solid Chablis with no overt wood, a sense of place and ripe fruit. But this is not something I’ll buy again. There is little depth of flavor, minimal concentration and, overall, nothing convincing about the wine. A decent bottle but just not enough. About $16.

2002 Bodegas Mustiguillo, Mestizaje:

Having had my first bottle of this a couple days ago (see note “All over the lot”), I wanted to revisit the wine to be certain it’s as good as I thought – it is. ‘Hard to believe this is a $12 bottle.

1993 Bonair, Cabernet Sauvignon Morrison Vineyard:

This Yakima Valley cabernet smells of Amarone and insecticide, delivers a raisened very Amarone-like flavor profile in a lightweight, fully resolved manner with a medium length, slightly drying, finish. The label says 12.5% alcohol but the style indicates over-ripeness; so I’m thinking either the label lies or they used some very toasty American oak barrels. More interesting than pleasurable and in decline.

Best, Jim

[jrufusj]

2002 Fevre, Chablis Champs Royaux:

Solid Chablis with no overt wood, a sense of place and ripe fruit. But this is not something I’ll buy again. There is little depth of flavor, minimal concentration and, overall, nothing convincing about the wine. A decent bottle but just not enough. About $16.

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(Florida) Jim:

Thanks for the notes and sorry for digging up a slightly old thread. I've been travelling and haven't been able to post much over the last couple of weeks.

Knowing that you are a Chablis guy, I'm curious if you've tried many of the Fevre 2002's.

Here in Tokyo, prices are pretty high for wine in general, so when I find something at a potentially reasonable (at least in local terms) price, I have to snap it up pretty quickly or it's gone.

I picked up three bottles of the 2002 Vaillons recently and haven't cracked one yet. Have you found concentration to be an issue across the board with Fevre in 2002? Given that I only have three, I'm not eager to break into them too soon. However, if they don't have the stuff to develop, I may as well cut my losses and drink up.

Thanks for any thoughts you may have.

Jim (Jones)

[Florida Jim]

Jim,

I would point out that my opinion about Fevre is certainly in the minority; others may give you a different take.

I have had a few of the 02 Fevre but not the Vaillons.

I found the Bougros more concentrated but quite tropical in an almost California way. The Clos I tasted was very closed and was pretty hard to get a read on (but then so was Dauvissat's).

The Fourchaume was pretty much as I describe the Royaux. After a recent tasting of the 02 Fourchaume from Boudin (Dom. de Chantemerle) that impressed me for its floral, feminine nose; its flavor complexity; and its obvious structure, I found the Fevre pleasant but little more.

I do hope you have better luck than me - but then too, a grain of salt with my opinions is warranted.

Best, Jim