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Recent tastes


Florida Jim

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2002 Drouhin, Chorey-Lès-Beaune:

Not the usual soft, plump Chorey for immediate consumption, this wine has depth, structure and that firmness on the palate so typical of good Beaune. A bit unforthcoming at the moment, this could use a year or two in the cellar, but it is concentrated and has grip. And at $18, promises a great deal for very little risk.

Excellent even now with wild mushroom risotto.

1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley:

Somewhat closed and stemmy on the nose and while the wine opens in the decanter, the “green” never dissipates completely. There’s good, solid fruit of almost California size and the balance works, but the stemminess is just too much for this taster.

2002 Navarro, Gewürztraminer Cluster Select Late Harvest (375 ml):

Tangerine nose with honey and floral scents and light brown spice tones; integrated in the mouth with very little RS, a medium intense mineral base for the several flavors which follow the nose, concentrated, focused and tightly knit; excellent persistence.

I am no fan of sweet wines or Gewürz., but this is ravishing by itself and good accompaniment to ginger cake. Thanks Bree.

2003 Laderas de Pinoso, Alicante Viñedos de El Sequé:

Made mostly of monastrell (mourvèdre) with a little cabernet sauvignon; 13.5% alcohol; and “nothing but net.” Warm plum and black fruit nose with a nice baked brick tone and a slight tar accent; complex flavors with good depth follow the nose, very fine grained tannins, excellent concentration and a medium length finish. All in a smooth, well-balanced package that costs about $8. Very highly recommended.

2003 Bodegas Ercavio, Tempranillo Roble:

Dark fruit, cinnamon bark and light pepper notes on the nose are echoed on the palate which is concentrated, smooth, integrated and balanced. Not especially complex but not simple either; well-made, straight-forward tempranillo that was delicious beside grilled bread with assorted spreads and condiments. 13.5 % alcohol and about $8.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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