Beautiful Algeria

[touaregsand]

It is indeed a Bedouin speciality, but of the Bedouins of Palestine and Jordan, not Algeria, who probably imported in from the Mashraq.

Mashraq? Are you referring to the Arab countries East of the Maghreb?

[chefzadi]

On mansaf: Mansaf. It's a Bedouin specialty. Okay, I'll take back what I said earlier about Algerians not cooking with yoghurt. This is the only dish that I can think of and I've thought about it a lot.

It is indeed a Bedouin speciality, but of the Bedouins of Palestine and Jordan, not Algeria, who probably imported in from the Mashraq.

I've only seen/heard of scant cases of mansaf making and eating in Algeria. Although an Algerian friend of mine says his mom made mansaf tadjine regularly.

Mechoui would be more common for celebrations.

[chefzadi]

Algerian Breads

Flat breads are more common than leavened breads. Khobz means bread. Kesra refers to semolina flat bread and leavened bread. Cocas refer to flat breads with toppings. Pizza refers to flat breads with Sicilian influenced toppings. Names for stuffed breads and breads with herbs and spices vary from region to region. Ensemna is a type of layered flat bread (think of Indian paratha), so is Khobz Ftir. M’takba is a fried bread.

I'd rather take request for specific recipes rather than posting random ones that might be of little interest.

Questions?

[chefzadi]

Algerian confitures, conserves and syrups.

Confitures are usually called maadjoun.

The range of fruits are predictable. A notable exception is a sweet eggplant preserve and a sweet carrot preserve.

Conserves are usually called m’raked or m’ssabar

The preparations include lamb preserved in olive oil, artichokes, peas, haricot verts, peppers, olives, lemons and tomatoes.

Syrups are usually called Cherbet.

They include orange flower, pomegranate, lemon, orange, gum Arabic and strawberry.

Next I will discuss relishes and condiments.

[Jake]

How about a recipe for one of the easier flatbreads, stuffed or not, that someone not too familiar with the cuisine could whip up??

[chefzadi]

Kalentika

Algerian stuffed flat bread

I had this in Oran.

Dough for stuffed flat breads or Coca

Ingredients:

1 cup warm water (100 degrees)

1 package dry yeast

1 tablespoon sugar

3 cups flour (AP or fine semolina or a combination of both)

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon of smen or butter

extra flour for dusting

Method:

1. Place the water in a large mixing bowl, add sugar and stir untill it has dissolved.

2. Add the yeast, let sit for about 5-10 minutes. A creamy foam should appear on the surface of the water.

3. Add the flour, salt, olive oil and smen to the proofed yeast. Begin incorporating the ingredients by stirring. When the mixture comes together in a pliable mass place the dough on a lightly floured surface to begin kneading.

4. Form the dough into a flattened ball. Fold the edge opposite of you in half towards your body. Knead the dough with the bottom of your palms away from your away.

5. Turn the dough in quarters, repeat the fold and knead (dust the work surface with flour as necessary) untill the dough is smooth. This will take approximately 15-20 minutes.

6. Form the dough into a ball, place into a large bowl and coat lightly with oil. Cover with plastic, let rest untill double in bulk. This will take about 1 hour at 75-80 degrees. I wouldn't get a barometer to measure temperatures though. Depending on the weather place the dough in a warmer or cooler place in the kitchen.

7. Punch the dough down.

I'll cover shaping and stuffing in the next post.

I'd also appreciate some feedback regarding the format of this recipe. Is it clear? Easy to read? Do you feel like any steps have been omitted?

Edited April 4, 2005 by chefzadi (log)

[rjwong]

4. Form the dough into a flattened ball. Fold the edge opposite of you in half  towards your body. Knead the dough with the bottom of your palms away from your away.

Do you mean "body?"

5. Turn the dough in quarters, repeat the fold and knead (dust the work surface with flour as necessary) untill the dough is smooth. This will take approximately 15-20 minutes.

Do you mean "quarter of a turn", as in 90% turn?

And then "repeat the fold", as in repeat step #4?

I'd also appreciate some feedback regarding the format of this recipe. Is it clear? Easy to read? Do you feel like any steps have been omitted?

For your consideration, how about this format? This format is similiar to the ones found in the new Joy of Cooking and Mastering the Art of French Cooking (MAFC):

1 cup warm water (100 degrees)

1 tablespoon sugar

1. Place the water in a large mixing bowl, add sugar and stir untill it has dissolved.

1 package dry yeast

2. Add the yeast, let sit for about 5-10 minutes. A creamy foam should appear on the surface of the water.

3 cups flour (AP or fine semolina or a combination of both)

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon of smen or butter

extra flour for dusting

3. Add the flour, salt, olive oil and smen to the proofed yeast. Begin incorporating the ingredients by stirring.  When the mixture comes together in a pliable mass place the dough on a lightly floured surface to begin kneading.

Waiting for the "shaping & stuffing", and of course, the eventual tasting ....

[chefzadi]

4. Form the dough into a flattened ball. Fold the edge opposite of you in half  towards your body. Knead the dough with the bottom of your palms away from your away.

Do you mean "body?"

5. Turn the dough in quarters, repeat the fold and knead (dust the work surface with flour as necessary) untill the dough is smooth. This will take approximately 15-20 minutes.

Do you mean "quarter of a turn", as in 90% turn?

And then "repeat the fold", as in repeat step #4?

I'd also appreciate some feedback regarding the format of this recipe. Is it clear? Easy to read? Do you feel like any steps have been omitted?

For your consideration, how about this format? This format is similiar to the ones found in the new Joy of Cooking and Mastering the Art of French Cooking (MAFC):

1 cup warm water (100 degrees)

1 tablespoon sugar

1. Place the water in a large mixing bowl, add sugar and stir untill it has dissolved.

1 package dry yeast

2. Add the yeast, let sit for about 5-10 minutes. A creamy foam should appear on the surface of the water.

3 cups flour (AP or fine semolina or a combination of both)

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon of smen or butter

extra flour for dusting

3. Add the flour, salt, olive oil and smen to the proofed yeast. Begin incorporating the ingredients by stirring.  When the mixture comes together in a pliable mass place the dough on a lightly floured surface to begin kneading.

Waiting for the "shaping & stuffing", and of course, the eventual tasting ....

←

Yes, I mean body. Typo.

Quarter turn.

The format I'm using is standard professional format. I have no idea about the Joy of Cooking and Mastering the Art of French Cooking formats.

[chefzadi]

Waiting for the "shaping & stuffing", and of course, the eventual tasting ....

The thing about tasting is that you have to cook to your own tastes. Your tastes are different from my tastes. Adjust seasoning to taste.

[archestratus]

It is indeed a Bedouin speciality, but of the Bedouins of Palestine and Jordan, not Algeria, who probably imported in from the Mashraq.

Mashraq? Are you referring to the Arab countries East of the Maghreb?

←

Maghrib means "West" in Arabic, and Mashraq means "East." The geographical area known as the Maghrib referes to Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, and sometimes Libya. The Masraq refers to Palestine, Syria, Jordan, Lebanon and the rest of the Arab countries to the East of Egypt.

[archestratus]

Chefzadi, your commentary on Algerian food is invaluable. As both Paula and I can attest, there is very little written about Algerian food and even food writers know next to nothing about it. Interspersing your comments with some Algerian history is also excellent. I think there are probably few Americans who could do the same with the history of their region.

[Jake]

Format for your bread recipe is fine, industry standard in NA as far as I can tell, but with a bit more detail for novices. However, I am trained rather than a novice and am familiar enough with dough that I would have no questions -- except to say that I will likely mix and knead in my KA unless there is a particular reason not to with this dough. Will await the second part of the recipe.....thanks in advance.

[Pan]

Chefzadi, I look forward to your installment on relishes and condiments. I'm wondering whether Algerians use mustard oil in relishes as is sometimes the case in Indian pickles/savory relishes.

[Smithy]

I haven't tried this recipe yet, but the only questions I'd have had were already addressed by others. This part, however, made me smile:

...

6. Form the dough into a ball, place into a large bowl and coat lightly with oil. Cover with plastic, let rest untill double in bulk. This will take about 1 hour at 75-80 degrees. I wouldn't get a barometer to measure temperatures though. Depending on the weather place the dough in a warmer or cooler place in the kitchen.

←

I wouldn't get a barometer to measure temperature, either. I presume you meant 'thermometer' in that sentence?

I am thoroughly enjoying this thread. Thank you, chefzadi, for all this detailed work. It's a fine tribute to your writing that you are getting so many valuable contributions from the eGullet community, luminary or lesser-known. I really appreciate the linguistics lessons that are coming along with the food; I'm learning a lot, here.

[chefzadi]

The dough recipe I gave above will make two 12" crusts for a cocca or 6 smaller stuffed flatbread portions.

Paula asked me why it is called Kalentica in Algeria. She also gave me a recipe for Calentica as it is known in Tangier and Gibralter. It's a chick pea pie of sorts made from chick pea flour. In Algeria the same preparation is known as Karentita and Kalentika. Then there is the flat bread that is stuffed with hummus that is also called Kalentica. I recall being offered these chick pea pies and stuffed breads everyday while I was in Oran. Flatbreads with different stuffings have various regional names. But with mass communication in Algeria they are usually called Khobz (bread) followed the primary ingredient in the stuffing. I offer regional names along with standard names whenever possible.

Hummus stuffing for Kalentika

Ingredients:

1. 1/2 cups cooked chicke peas.

2. 1 clove of garlic, finely minced

3. 1/2 tablespoon of ground cumin

4. Salt and Pepper to taste

5. 2 tablespoons of Olive Oil

Method:

1. Gently mash the chick peas with a fork, add the remaining ingredients, mix well and adjust seasoning to taste.

2. Divide dough into 12 balls.

3. Roll out the balls into 1/4" thick circles.

4. Evenly spread 2 tablespoons of the hummus on 6 six of the disks. Leave 1/2" along the edge clean.

5. Place the remaining disks on top of the disks that have been spread with hummus and gently seal the edges with your fingers.

6. Cook the stuffed dough in a non-stick skillet on medium heat untill golden brown.

There is an alternative method for Kalentica. The seasoned chickpeas are incorporated into the dough before it is let to rise. Traditionally it would have been cooked in a skillet, but nowadays alot of Algerians have access to ovens. Brush a 14" cakepan with olive oil and form the dough inside. Brush the top with olive oil, bake in a 400 degree oven for about 20 minutes, depending on your oven.

The other stuffing options for Breads and toppings for Coca can be covered along with relishes and condiments.

[chefzadi]

I wouldn't get a barometer to measure temperature, either. I presume you meant 'thermometer' in that sentence? biggrin.gif

No I did mean barometer. It's important to measure atomospherice pressure!

[chefzadi]

Flatbreads also include types of crepes.

In Algiers you will find a version of a French chicken crepe with Bechamel sauce, of course chick peas are added. But I get the impression that most readers are more interested in "authentic" rather than Pied Noirs influenced.

Here is a description of some Kabylie preparations by my friend Hassan. He knows the Kabylie names, which I am not familiar with.

There are other "typically" Kabyle dishes, of course. Most, I

never had outside my own family (i.e., my parents and grand

parents). I can think of a few off the top of my head: a hard

semolina bread ("galette") eaten broken down in pieces in a

spicy stew of tomatoes, peppers, and onions (rather filling but

oh so yummy). Also, a flat bread called "tashuppadh" (that we

called "Crepes Kabyles") a bit reminiscent of Mexican tortillas

but coated with olive oil that you eat filled with any garnish

that you wish (mostly roated peppers and tomatoes).

Kesra bel foul would be topped with fava beans. Erfis is a delicate steamed crepe sprinkled with sugar.

We also make a delicious semolina pancake topped with lots of butter and drizzled with honey called Beghir.

I think that I will move onto vegetable preparations next...

EDIT: The interesting thing is that Hassan says that he has never had them outside of his family. But the dishes he mentions are found in various forms throughout the country, with different regional names. The torn bread in sauce might be called tchakchouka and the bread topped with roasted pepper/tomato relish might be called Bouzdjen elsewhere.

Edited April 6, 2005 by chefzadi (log)

[chefzadi]

Chefzadi, I look forward to your installment on relishes and condiments. I'm wondering whether Algerians use mustard oil in relishes as is sometimes the case in Indian pickles/savory relishes.

←

Oh, I'll do relishes and condiments next. I've never heard of mustard oil being used in Algerian cooking.

However, I will be looking through some old cookbooks very soon.

[chefzadi]

Format for your bread recipe is fine, industry standard in NA as far as I can tell, but with a bit more detail for novices.  However, I am trained rather than a novice and am familiar enough with dough that I would have no questions -- except to say that I will likely mix and knead in my KA unless there is a particular reason not to with this dough.  Will await the second part of the recipe.....thanks in advance.

←

I'd like my book to be appealing to novices and professionals. I think that I will provide technique intensive details such as kneading at the beginning of a chapter and not repeat with every bread recipe.

[Jake]

Format for your bread recipe is fine, industry standard in NA as far as I can tell, but with a bit more detail for novices.  However, I am trained rather than a novice and am familiar enough with dough that I would have no questions -- except to say that I will likely mix and knead in my KA unless there is a particular reason not to with this dough.  Will await the second part of the recipe.....thanks in advance.

←

I'd like my book to be appealing to novices and professionals. I think that I will provide technique intensive details such as kneading at the beginning of a chapter and not repeat with every bread recipe.

←

That's a great idea, so many books are really only appropriate for one or the other. Please keep us informed of your book progress as well.

[chefzadi]

Format for your bread recipe is fine, industry standard in NA as far as I can tell, but with a bit more detail for novices.  However, I am trained rather than a novice and am familiar enough with dough that I would have no questions -- except to say that I will likely mix and knead in my KA unless there is a particular reason not to with this dough.  Will await the second part of the recipe.....thanks in advance.

←

I'd like my book to be appealing to novices and professionals. I think that I will provide technique intensive details such as kneading at the beginning of a chapter and not repeat with every bread recipe.

←

That's a great idea, so many books are really only appropriate for one or the other. Please keep us informed of your book progress as well.

←

You mentioned that you are trained. Does that you mean you are a professional? If so (even if not) what do you think would make a cookbook interesting to a professional?

[Pan]

Flatbreads also include types of crepes.

In Algiers you will find a version of a French chicken crepe with Bechamel sauce, of course chick peas are added. But I get the impression that most readers are more interested in "authentic" rather than Pied Noirs influenced.[...]

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Speaking for myself, I'm interested in all of it. It's all part of Algerian cuisine and culture, and since you are going about covering each region of Algeria as well as discussing the effects of conquest, migration, and trade in the historical development of Algerian cuisine per se and by comparison with other Mediterranean cuisines, I say go for it. Surely, the period of French rule in Algeria was not the least influential in its effects on Algerian foodways.

[chefzadi]

A fellow egullet memebr Russel Wong who is a librarian was kind enough to source a copy of the "La Cuisine Algerienne" by Fatima-Zohra Bouayed. He came over yesterday evening to share it with me. We had dinner together, it only lasted about 1 1/2 hours. Meal times during weekdays are shorter than weekends. The kids need to be bathed and in bed by 9:00PM. But we had a good time.

It's basically a catalog of recipes, with no backstory or discussion of cooking techniques. The book is in French, it has a "lexique" which is useful.

[chefzadi]

Flatbreads also include types of crepes.

In Algiers you will find a version of a French chicken crepe with Bechamel sauce, of course chick peas are added. But I get the impression that most readers are more interested in "authentic" rather than Pied Noirs influenced.[...]

←

Speaking for myself, I'm interested in all of it. It's all part of Algerian cuisine and culture, and since you are going about covering each region of Algeria as well as discussing the effects of conquest, migration, and trade in the historical development of Algerian cuisine per se and by comparison with other Mediterranean cuisines, I say go for it. Surely, the period of French rule in Algeria was not the least influential in its effects on Algerian foodways.

←

Origins of the term "Pied Noirs".

It means blackfoot. Some say it was coined by native Algerians referring to the black boots worn by French Soldiers. Others say it was coined by the Europeans themselves, to mean what I can't even imagine. (Barefeet getting dirty in the sand? Or going native by going barefoot?). Still others link it to the hard labor that alot of European settlers did in the name of the French government, believing in promises of a better life.

Those beutiful European style cities in Algeria were built on the sweat and backs of European settlers. Not so glamorous.

[chefzadi]

Flatbreads also include types of crepes.

In Algiers you will find a version of a French chicken crepe with Bechamel sauce, of course chick peas are added. But I get the impression that most readers are more interested in "authentic" rather than Pied Noirs influenced.[...]

←

Speaking for myself, I'm interested in all of it. It's all part of Algerian cuisine and culture, and since you are going about covering each region of Algeria as well as discussing the effects of conquest, migration, and trade in the historical development of Algerian cuisine per se and by comparison with other Mediterranean cuisines, I say go for it. Surely, the period of French rule in Algeria was not the least influential in its effects on Algerian foodways.

←

I'll devoting a chapter to it.

I'll also have sample menus for home cooks, as well as historically based menus (a little imagination on my part) for instance a sample of a Sephardic Jewish menu, Moriscos, Ottoman etc...