Beautiful Algeria

[Suburbanpeasant]

Since you are culturally confused, I thought I should drop a line to give you another perspective.

My husband was born in Kabyle and anyone from Kabyle will call himself "un kabyle" and to anyone outside of France, a berber. He will never, ever call himself an Arab. The berbers are trying very hard to reinstate their own identity. For a very very long time, they were not allowed to speak or write in their own language publicly...many younger generation Kabyle were forced to learn Arabic at school. The berber culture is ancient and rich but in recent history has been squashed by the arabisation of Algeria.

As far as I know, there is very little Arab influence in Algeria. The influence is primary Turkish. Many of the cooking styles are infact Turkish (or perhaps Lebanese) rather than Arabic.

As for your point about the Kasbah...it is far from an islamic city. The kasbah had always been a point of mystery : in french, it is "la kasbah", mysterious like a woman. It is possible to get yourself inextricably lost in this urban labyrinth ; way to the time of Boumedienne, the kasbah was pretty cosmopolitan. There were lots of Jews, Pied noirs, turks, berbers and even chinese.

There was a significant number of Jews in Algeria (up to recent times). Many fled during the recent turmoil to Spain and France. Algerian Jewish food is an interesting sub-section of kosher cooking. Their fish couscous is delightful.

Anyway, these are my small bits of info. to help you along...

First I have two disclaimers.

1. I cannot reproduce too many recipes from the cookbook that I’m working on. Just so you know that it’s not because I am stingy or secretive about it I will explain the reasons. I have been in contact with a few literary agents (one is well known) who have told me that they want to sign me when I build a stronger platform of public appearances. (I don’t quite understand this, because with my contacts I wouldn’t have trouble building a lot of public appearances once I have a published cookbook. Without one, I end up teaching cooking classes which is fine. But you know what I mean.). I’m also considering taking it directly to publishers. I’m not sure how much pre-publishing is a acceptable.

2. As some of you know I am a little culturally “confused.” But I will explain it a little more here. I was born in France to Algerian parents. Our relatives still maintain the family farm in Setif.  Setif is very close to the Kabyle a Berber stronghold. The Berbers don’t call themselves Berbers of course, only when they are trying to explain to someone who doesn’t know what Amazigh means. My family refers to themselves as Arabs, but in fact we are culturally and ethnically Berber as well. I have blond haired, light skin and green eyed relatives and Setif cooking is not far off from Kabyle style. So I am a Kabylie in ways that I do not know exactly how to define, but Arabs from other parts of Algeria notice this fairly quickly and point it out to me (very casually and politely). 

So you see I am very confused or woven like a spider web. I will try discuss Algerian cookery somewhat regionally, but I want to focuse more on cooking and actual dishes. Also I am not a historian, a scholar or an anthropologist. Questions about "authenticity" or "genuineness" aren't always easy for me to answer. I can tell you what my generation of Algerians cook and eat in terms of what we call Algerian food and what our parents and grandparents cooked.  I will start with some broad thoughts on Algerian cuisine in my next post. Then move on to regions.

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[Pan]

Constantine is spectacular! Is the weather mild enough for people to enjoy sitting in outdoor cafes admiring the scenery?

[chefzadi]

As far as I know, there is very little Arab influence in Algeria. The influence is primary Turkish. Many of the cooking styles are infact Turkish (or perhaps Lebanese) rather than Arabic.

As for your point about the Kasbah...it is far from an islamic city. The kasbah had always been a point of mystery : in french, it is "la kasbah", mysterious like a woman. It is possible to get yourself inextricably lost in this urban labyrinth ; way to the time of Boumedienne, the kasbah was pretty cosmopolitan. There were lots of Jews, Pied noirs, turks, berbers and even chinese.

There's quite a bit of Arabic influence in Algeria. It's the national language for one. The Lebanese are Arabs as well. I didn't make any points about the Kasbah being an islamic city. I posted a photo link, to a website that I'm not affiliated with. There are many Kasbahs in North Africa. It means old part of town.

My husband was born in Kabyle and anyone from Kabyle will call himself "un kabyle" and to anyone outside of France, a berber. He will never, ever call himself an Arab. The berbers are trying very hard to reinstate their own identity. For a very very long time, they were not allowed to speak or write in their own language publicly...many younger generation Kabyle were forced to learn Arabic at school. The berber culture is ancient and rich but in recent history has been squashed by the arabisation of Algeria.

I'm well aware of the history of the Berbers/Amazigh. My comments about 'confusion' were referring to my own cultural upbringing. Not confusion regarding Algerian history. A part of Setif (where my family is from) is a part of the Kabyle. Is it possible that someone can be both Arab and Berber culturally speaking? Yes, in fact the vast majority of Algerians are. The affiliation to one or other is often times an unfortunate political choice for most. I refuse to deny one or the other, because I am both. The irony is I found my brothers outside of the old country.

Thank you for insights.

[chefzadi]

Constantine is spectacular! Is the weather mild enough for people to enjoy sitting in outdoor cafes admiring the scenery?

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Michael-

I'll show you how to protect yourself from the North African sun like a proper blue man (tuareg or toureg desert nomad). I have blue and white scarves from Algeria.

[chefzadi]

If the readers of this post take a little time to click onto the photo links to get a glimse of the regions and cities that I am referring to... Well this reminds me of a question that I am often asked "are there cities, buildings in Africa?"

What do you think?

Next we will visit Tlemcen...

[Pan]

If the readers of this post take a little time to click onto the photo links to get a glimse of the regions and cities that I am referring to... Well this reminds me of a question that I am often asked "are there cities, buildings in Africa?"[...]

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I'm going to resist posting my first reaction to this question, but it must get tiresome to hear such bullshit questions! Not quite as bad if it's just kids asking, though.

And what preconceptions do they have about food in Africa? Lots of monkey brains?

[chefzadi]

And what preconceptions do they have about food in Africa? Lots of monkey brains?

Have you learned nothing from movies? It's monkey eyeballs!!!

[zeitoun]

As far as I know, there is very little Arab influence in Algeria. The influence is primary Turkish. Many of the cooking styles are infact Turkish (or perhaps Lebanese) rather than Arabic.

As for your point about the Kasbah...it is far from an islamic city. The kasbah had always been a point of mystery : in french, it is "la kasbah", mysterious like a woman. It is possible to get yourself inextricably lost in this urban labyrinth ; way to the time of Boumedienne, the kasbah was pretty cosmopolitan. There were lots of Jews, Pied noirs, turks, berbers and even chinese.

There's quite a bit of Arabic influence in Algeria. It's the national language for one. The Lebanese are Arabs as well. I didn't make any points about the Kasbah being an islamic city. I posted a photo link, to a website that I'm not affiliated with. There are many Kasbahs in North Africa. It means old part of town.

My husband was born in Kabyle and anyone from Kabyle will call himself "un kabyle" and to anyone outside of France, a berber. He will never, ever call himself an Arab. The berbers are trying very hard to reinstate their own identity. For a very very long time, they were not allowed to speak or write in their own language publicly...many younger generation Kabyle were forced to learn Arabic at school. The berber culture is ancient and rich but in recent history has been squashed by the arabisation of Algeria.

I'm well aware of the history of the Berbers/Amazigh. My comments about 'confusion' were referring to my own cultural upbringing. Not confusion regarding Algerian history. A part of Setif (where my family is from) is a part of the Kabyle. Is it possible that someone can be both Arab and Berber culturally speaking? Yes, in fact the vast majority of Algerians are. The affiliation to one or other is often times an unfortunate political choice for most. I refuse to deny one or the other, because I am both. The irony is I found my brothers outside of the old country.

Thank you for insights.

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Just a few insights on the question which might clarify or echo what was already said:

By Arab, it is important to distinguish two things, the meaning of the word from an ethnic and cultural point of view. All of the people in the Arab world living outside of the Arabian peninsula are technically not ethnic Arabs, they are referred to as Arabs because of one simple factor which is the language they speak. So by that definition, a Mauritanian is as much an Arab as an Iraqi, Lebanese or Sudanese. So following this interpretation, a Berber is technically considered an Arab by virtue of the language he or she speaks (although some still speak the original Berber language or a mix of Arabic/Berber or Arabic/Berber with French thrown into it, which is probably why there is a lot of confusion and debate!!)

It is difficult to define today who is an ethnic Arab because the Middle East has undergone so much change politically and socially in the past 1500 years. Most likely, the only people today that can claim to be 100% ethnic Arabs are the ones found in what is left of the nomadic tribes that still live on the Arabian Peninsula (there are some left although today their primary mode of transportation is no longer the camel but Toyota pick up trucks with a camel chillin' in the back, no joke i've seen it with my own eyes!)

So for a better understanding of the term, everyone else was "Arabized" simply because through history, the Arabic language became more prevalent in this part of the world.

So where does that leave us in terms of "Arab cooking" , I hope this thread will help us shed more light on the term

[chefzadi]

So where does that leave us in terms of "Arab cooking"

Chick peas and flatbread.

I think almost all Arabs in Algeria have Berber blood and there are few if any ethnically pure Berbers remaining. It is impossible to say who is what based on physical characteristics. I mentioned my relatives with light coloring. But there are Algerians who look positively Germanic who will refer to themselves as Arabs. There are also Algerians who might be considered "black" in America who are Arabs. It's not an ethnicity. Even in the single country of Algeria "Arabic culture" is not homegenous.

So for a better understanding of the term, everyone else was "Arabized" simply because through history, the Arabic language became more prevalent in this part of the world.

and Arabic literature...

[chefzadi]

Tlemcen

Tlemcen is in Northwest Algeria. It’s at a crossroads, between the Mediterranean coast, the Sahara, Algeria and Morocco. The city has been a commercial center since Ancient times. The city also has stunning examples of Moorish architecture as well as.

Photos

There was a snowstorm last December.

snow

The spices used for savory dishes here are saffron and cinnamon, sometimes ginger. Meat dishes will focus on a single meat (unlike some of the dishes of Setif that can include, beef, lamb and chicken in a single stew). The cooking here would not be spicy as in hot. Tajines with fruits, garnished with delicate almond lozenges would be found here as well. Of course they don’t use the word tajine here either. The cooking here would be closer to Moroccan than it is to Setif, Annaba, Constantine or Oran. I love this city.

Get out your Cheb Mami CD’s because we’re going to Oran next!

(For those you who aren’t familiar with Cheb Mami, think of the beginning of Sting’s song Desert Rose. That’s him.

[FoodMan]

I, like everyone else, am enjoying this thread very much. I have learned almost everything I know about Algerian food from this discussion .

I would like to put in a reminder though to please keep it focused on food, culinary regions and their effect on cuisine. Discussions of who is or is not an Arab do not belong here.

Thanks for your understanding.

Elie

[chefzadi]

Oran was founded early in the 10th century as a center for trade between North Africa and Moorish Spain. Later Moors who have been expelled from Spain return and engage in piracy, just as they did in Algiers. The Spanish capture Oran in 1509, they would stay until 1708 then regain control between 1732-1792. In 1831 the French would come along with other European settlers.

Catcher in the Rai

We are in Oran. The birth place of Rai music. But Rai wasn’t suddenly invented in the 70’s, it evolved over a long period of time. The beginnings of Rai music are thought to have been during the depression of the 1930's when rural Algerians began migrating into the cities of Western Algeria. But it goes back further than that.

Where there is Rai, there is a way. The various meanings of the word Rai all refer to a point of view, a plan and a statement.

In the folklore of Wahrania in the old days people went to a shikh of malmun to ask for his raï or his advice expressed through sung poetry. The singing poets have existed for hundreds of year allover Algeria. They sing in local dialects of love, heroism and spirituality. Like all poets they give a sense of physical time and place by referring to historical events (often times painful ones, sometimes joyous ones), but like great poets there is irony and satire as well. The Wahran style of Rai is associated with the Arab Bedouin rai.

The shikhs were learned older men. They often memorized a set of songs, passing down oral narratives in this sense.

The shikas were singing poetesses who performed at religious festivals, weddings and pleasure parties. They were spontaneous singers, in that they did not have a prescribed repetoire, but had personal ones.

The madas were also singing poetesses, some write their own songs.

Cheb means young man, chaba means young woman. The titles are given to young singers of Rai.

The first “spontaneous” eruptions of Rai were thought to have begun shortly (maybe immediately) after Independence from France.

The next installment will covering the cooking of Oran.

[chefzadi]

Photos

more photos

even more photos

The Moors and the Spaniards left their culinary marks in Oran, as did the European settlers. Some of the dishes here are identical to what is found in Andalusia. Some regional specialties are Paella and Bouilliabaisse, and yes that is what they are called in Algerian derja. The Moors introduced the rice and saffron necessary for Paella to Spain. The Spanish introduce a dish they call paella to the Algerians. As for bouilliabaisse, every port in the world seems to have a fisherman’s stew/soup of some sort. Here it’s called bouilliabaisse because a large number of French settlers were from the South of France, but the versions here will have some spice and heat. Pasta dishes here somewhat reflect the Sicilian influence, again some would be identical others have some North African Arab soul . I’ve already discussed the Arabs (Sarecens from North Africa) introducing dried semolina pasta to Italy via Sicily. I’ll discuss Algerian use of pasta more in depth later.

Next, Arab contributions to Algerian cookery.

[Behemoth]

chefzadi, I have always wondered where Algeria got its name -- in arabic Al-Jazair = the islands but as far as I can tell, looking at a map, it seems to be pretty solidly island-free.

[chefzadi]

P.S. on Oran. My favorite writer Albert Camus was born in the Oran region. So was Yves Saint Laurent, not my favorite fashion designer.

[chefzadi]

chefzadi, I have always wondered where Algeria got its name -- in arabic Al-Jazair = the islands but as far as I can tell, looking at a map, it seems to be pretty solidly island-free.

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I will answer this tomorrow. For now sleep.

[zeitoun]

I, like everyone else, am enjoying this thread very much. I have learned almost everything I know about Algerian food from this discussion .

I would like to put in a reminder though to please keep it focused on food, culinary regions and their effect on cuisine. Discussions of who is or is not an Arab do not belong here.

Thanks for your understanding.

Elie

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You're right Elie, however I think this discussion which may have seemed off topic was intended to lay some kind of background so that we could better understand what is meant by Arab contributions to Algerian Cookery. It is a concept that to many (myself included) remains quite confusing .

This certainly should have been made clearer in the course of this particular discussion.

[chefzadi]

The Arabic name of Algiers, the captial of Algeria is al-Jazairiya. It comes from al-jaza`ir Arabic for islands. There are islands in the harbor of Algiers.

Photos

more photos

[chefzadi]

Arab influences in Algerian cookery.

The Arabs entered Algeria through various phases and modes. We came even before we were Arabs. We came as nomads and as part of the Spice Trade which also included oils and fragrances. As far back as 4600 B.C. spices from Asia are found in Giza, Egypt, probably even further than that. Then we later came as Arabs or Arabized people with the language and a few dishes that seem to be found throughout the Arab world.

So what then is Arab and not Arab in Algerian cookery? I don’t have an answer to that. The only way to tackle the question is through discussion.

I can recognize most Middle Eastern pastries, not all but most would be found in Algeria. I think that Behemoth, Zeitoun and Food Man would be able to recognize many Algerian dishes as being Lebanese as well sometimes exactly the same, sometimes with slight variations. I also know that if they have been preparing Lebanese food at home, they have also been making some Algerian food. Most Middle Eastern mezze are familiar to my Algerian eyes as well.

I found this website on Lebanese cuisine and I will make a list of dishes that would be found in Algeria. http://www.lebaneseproducts.com/recipe/main.htm

Ajeen- we would more likely make a dough like this with semolina flour, but regular flour would be used as well.

Toum- the second version. But sometimes we’ll add a few other things and call it charmoula.

Taratour- no sesame sauces in Algeria. I’ve never seen it.

Yoghurt- of course, but we don’t use it in marinades or for dipping sauces. I’ve never seen it.

Cooked yoghurt- no

Taboulleh- Yes and no, we would use it as a type of relish, but not eat as a full on salad.

Fattoush- Not exactly. Bread salad yes, but not like this.

Hummus- yes (disregard that weird recipe, is that traditional Lebanese?)

Bamyeh bil Zayt- Yes, but we don’t call it that.

Foul- Yes but we don’t call it that.

Bathinjan Moutabal- Roasted eggplant puree yes, but no tahini.

Warak Enab Bi-Zayt- Yes

Msakaet al Bathinjan- of course

Batata bil kizbara- of course

Arayes Kafta- I don’t know what Kafta is.

Mohamara- Chili sauce, yes, but not made like this.

Fattet Bathinjan (Eggplant with Yoghurt)- We don’t cook with yoghurt

Fattet Hommos (Chick Peas in Yoghurt)- We don’t do this with yoghurt either

Falafel- I don’t think this made it past Egypt. Maybe it got to Libya or even Tunisia, but I’ve never heard of this in Algeria.

Kibbi Nayye- Never seen this.

Hindbeh Bil Zayt- I don’t recall seeing dandelion leaves in Algerian cooking, but we would cook other greens the same way. No bicarbonate of soda though.

Lubya bi-zayt- yes

Kibed Makli- yes, but no balsalmic vinegar

Nikhaat bil hamod wal-zayt- Yes, but the use of cinnamon would depend on the region and the cook, I assume that’s the same for Lebanon.

Rakaek jibne- yes but we would use brik dough.

Sambousik jibne- same as above.

Sambousik Lahme- Yes, we would make them with brik dough or a homemade dough like the one in this recipe.

Fatayer Bil Sabanikh- Yes, but we would more likely just add Spinach, pine nuts and raisins.

Sfiha Baalbeckiye- Yes, but no yoghurt or tahini, maybe pomegranate molasses.

Manakeesh bi zaatar- Some variation of this.

Pickles- Yes, except the yoghurt pickles.

As for the rest, pretty much everything in the vegetable, chicken, meat and fish categories. But again, we don’t cook with yoghurt, tahini and pomegranate molasses would be as common. We don’t add bulghur to stuffings or meat patties. But we would add it to soups as an extender/thickener/filler.

Don't ask me yet what these dishes would be called in Algerian derja, not yet.

Draw your own conclusions. Are these dishes or variants found throughout Arab speaking countries? Is this Arab cookery?

More in the next installment…

[zeitoun]

A few questions..

Most Middle Eastern mezze are familiar to my Algerian eyes as well.

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How would you compare the concept of mezze with kemiah? Is the concept of kemiah present in all of North Africa? Is it big in Algeria?

Taboulleh- Yes and no, we would use it as a type of relish, but not eat as a full on salad.

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Back in France we always distinguished the north african tabouleh from the lebanese tabouleh. The lebanese one as we all know consists of parsley, mint, onions, tomatoes and bulghur. What North Africans refer to as tabouleh it seems, consists of a tangy/spicy cold "semolina" type of salad. Where is this version of tabouleh from exactly?

Is this Arab cookery?

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Hard to tell since it seems that a majority of the dishes you just described probably have turkish, armenian, persian, greek, egyptian, jewish (and the list goes on) origins!!!

[chefzadi]

How would you compare the concept of mezze with kemiah? Is the concept of kemiah present in all of North Africa? Is it big in Algeria?

What is Kemiah? I do not speak or understand Standard or Classical Arabic. I speak Algerian derja. I can communicate with Moroccans and Tunisians. If you tell me what it is I can tell it's relevancy in Algeria.

Back in France we always distinguished the north african tabouleh from the lebanese tabouleh. The lebanese one as we all know consists of parsley, mint, onions, tomatoes and bulghur. What North Africans refer to as tabouleh it seems, consists of a tangy/spicy cold "semolina" type of salad. Where is this version of tabouleh from exactly?

I think it's a colonial or post colonial invention.

Hard to tell since it seems that a majority of the dishes you just described probably have turkish, armenian, persian, greek, egyptian, jewish (and the list goes on) origins!!!

True, but the Armenians and Persians were never in Algeria whereas the Arabs got into Persia and Turkey. The Ottoman table in Algeria would not have been unfamiliar to the Arabs or Arabized peoples. As for the Jews in Algeria, I'm still pondering how to discuss their culinary influence. I've read a few recipes that are called "Jewish recipes" but I cannot distinguish them at all from other Algerian recipes. Yes, the list goes on but it stops somewhere and it seems to circle the Arab caravan of trade and conquests. Does it make it "Arab?" Yes and no. How's that for straddling the fence?!

[FoodMan]

hmmm.. th Hummos recipe looks ok to me. I use all these ingredients when I make mine.

Elie

[chefzadi]

hmmm.. th Hummos recipe looks ok to me. I use all these ingredients when I make mine.

Elie

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You add butter to hommos?

[Jason Perlow]

Falafel- I don’t think this made it past Egypt. Maybe it got to Libya or even Tunisia, but I’ve never heard of this in Algeria.

It exists in Egypt and Israel and Lebanon, and I think it exists in Syria and Iraq as well. It also exists in Turkey and Greece.

Now as to where it ORIGINATED from is another matter. I seem to recall a quote from the late Yasser Arafat claiming Palestine as its in origin.

[Wolfert]

undefinedHow would you compare the concept of mezze with kemiah? Is the concept of kemiah present in all of North Africa? Is it big in Algeria?

I know Kemia as a Tunisian-Jewish spread of appetizers (meze like but different from the middle east) to drink with alcohol.