The power of Michelin - Merged topics

[PaulaJ]

The current issue of Wine Spectator has an

article re: Jean-Marie Amat [st James, Bouliac]

being discharged following the failure of the

restaurant to garner a second star. What a shame!

We had so enjoyed his cuisine on previous visits.

Apparently, both hotel and restaurant are closed

while the owner revamps.

[cabrales]

Amat is supposed to have hosted a dinner a while ago for Relais & Gourmand chefs. The topics their meeting discussed included "forbidden foods". Amat was reported to have served ortolans. This was the first time T Keller had ortolan; D Boulud refused to take one.   Another interesting tidbit about Amat is that he wrote a book in French with a title referring to the new physiology of taste (not necessarily along Brillat-Savarin lines, of course).

[ajay]

Can someone describe an ortolan?  The word was not in Webster's and I don't as yet have a gastronmic dictionary.

what is an Ortolan?  How is it customarily prepared?  Where is it found?  Has anyone made a name for themselves with this ingredient?

[cabrales]

ajay -- An ortolan is a tiny, tiny birdie that people used to trap in the Landes region of Southern France. It is supposed to be one of the greatest delicacies one can have. It is best, reportedly, for one to take the bird into one's mouth whole. I think the birdie is of the yellowhammer family (?). The birdies fly over France during a very limited portion of the year.

The French President Mitterand had two for his effective last meal, after Marennes and chapon. He had it with his head covered by a napkin, which is a traditional aspect of sampling ortolans. These birdies eat berries, among other things, and are typically force-fed after they are trapped, then drowned in Armagnac. A delicious preparation is apparently to roast them in their own fat. Paul Bocuse wrote a book on the preparation of game (translated into English) that contains at least 4-5 other ortolan recipes. I have copied down relevant recipes, in case members need it.

The ortolan is now, sadly, prohibited in France, Monaco and the UK.

I posted about this birdie, but the search function did not retrieve the post and I can't remember its location. Ducasse served ortolan in NYC to the press, before a 1990s Le Cirque dinner in which Bocuse, Boyer and R Verge also prepared dishes. Ducasse brought a special spit roaster from France for the occasion.

[Bux]

For clarification, it is the trapping and eating of ortolans that is prohibited. I believe it is because they are endangered as a species. The birds are eaten whole head, bones and all. I'm not sure why it is the custom to eat the birds with a napkin over one's head. Possibly it's to prevent photographing the lawbreaker or perhaps not to offend the senses of any onlooker who might object to seeing a small bird being eaten whole.

More troubling is the loss of Jean-Marie Amat as chef in St. James. It was my understanding that he owned the hotel and restaurant until the bank (or creditor?) took it over because of financial troubles. At one time it had two stars, but it fell to one star and never regained even two. We've had two meals in his dining room and one in his bistro. We enjoyed all three immensely for what they were and the meals in the formal dining room were all I'd expect from a two star and maybe more. It was a lunch there one year that led us to return another time and stay for a couple of nights to enjoy both of his restaurants on the premises. I always recommended it as a great place to eat when in or near Bordeaux. It is a shame.

[lizziee]

Another wonderful place to eat in Bordeaux is La Tupina. The chef is Greek ( I think) - Jean-Pierre Xiradakis. The restaurant is impossible to find - down an alley. The decor is farmhouse rustic, friendly and "full of regulars" being greeted by the chef. If you are on a diet or have a cholesterol problem do not go. This is a true celebration of Gasconny, Southwestern food.As you walk in there is a huge fireplace - the room is filled with the aroma of poultry slowly roasting on the spit.In front of the fireplace, there is a table heaped with sausages, pork pate,foie gras and the like.

I don't have my tasting notes, but it was a wonderful, fun, not too expensive lunch.

[PaulaJ]

Bux,

The Wine Spectacor article re: Amat indicates that when

St James ran into financial problems, Amat took on a

70 % partner. Apparently, the partner became more

active in day to day running about a year ago.......

was instrumental in the redecorating of the hotel........

and was unhappy when his investment failed to garner

the sought after and desired second star. I,also, enjoyed

the facility and the cuisine.

[cabrales]

  Bux said:

I'm not sure why it is the custom to eat the birds with a napkin over one's head. Possibly it's to prevent photographing the lawbreaker or perhaps not to offend the senses of any onlooker who might object to seeing a small bird being eaten whole.

Bux -- I'm not sure either. I suspect that the napkin does have the effect of not offending third parties visually. I imagine chomping on bones (even fragile ones) and taking a whole bird into one's mouth would also result in juices and other unsightly aspects. Another potential effect is the concentration of the aromas of the birdie. One way to address the hot temperature of a birdie taken whole is apparently to take in air into one's mouth a bit initially (this is according to a description of the Relais Gourmand dinner). If the taking in of the air results in the release of some of the aromas of the ortolan even more than usual, the use of the napkin might aid to entrap the aromas.  

I am quite curious about the sampling of ortolans, including (1) what wines might be appropriate pairings (Skortha suggested an Echezeaux or Grands Echezeaux), (2) whether the head and tail are also eaten, and (3) how one can sip wine underneath the napkin.  

[Steve Klc]

next time I have a soft shell crab I'll take in some air and have my napkin at the ready, too.

[cabrales]

  Steve Klc said:

next time I have a soft shell crab I'll take in some air and have my napkin at the ready, too.

Steve Klc & Bux -- Below are excerpts from a NYT article (December 31, 1997, by Marrian Buros) describing the Relais Gourmand dinner to which I referred.

"Part of the mystique is the use of the napkin, which, according to Larousse Gastronomique, was initiated by a priest who was a friend of the 19th-century French epicure Brillat-Savarin. Several reasons are advanced for this ritual. One is that by placing the napkin over the head and face, one can better appreciate the fragrances from the tiny casserole in which the birds are cooked.  Gerard Pangaud [Gerard's Place in Washington] went a step further. 'You smell the  ortolan,' he said. 'You salivate, and that protects your mouth from getting burned, because you must take it in your mouth while it is very, very hot.' Then because it is very hot, diners may have to hold their mouths open part of the time while they chew, and others may not want to watch. . . . "

T Keller admitted to eating an ortolan, and indicated that it was a "cerebral and sensual" experience.  

Another aspect regarding the use of the napkin that I am curious about is how it affects the visual appeal of the ortolan. A diner will have seen the ortolan prior to putting on the napkin, and presumably would place the bird inside his mouth without the napkin on. Yet doesn't that somewhat reduce the effect of trapping the aromas of the birdie? Also, I wonder how one lifts the ortolan into one's mouth -- is it by hand, using the head or the feet? Is it using some sort of sauce spoon? One would presumably have to do this quickly, and I would have thought some type of tong might be ideal, although not visually appealing.

Another intriguing question relates to the tail of the ortolan. First of all, I don't know what the length of the tail is relative to the bird itself, even though all features are small.  But Keller reported this: "Around the tail it was extremely sensual, and there was like crackling duck skin which encased fat."

Finally, apart from Marenne oysters and chapons, I imagine there must be certain foodstuffs that are appropriate lead-ins to ortolans. I would appreciate any member input on what tastes might be appropriate for the build-up.  

[Bux]

Cabrales, thanks for posting that info. I recall reading the article, but the details had been erased from memory. My assumption has always been that the napkin went over your head first and the bird was eaten under the cover of the napkin by raising the corner in front of your mouth.

Without the feathers, the tail must be minuscule even if as fatty as a chicken's tail. I am reminded of a previous message of yours elsewhere. This is a food that has little appeal to me, except perhaps for reasons of oneupmanship.

[cabrales]

  Bux said:

This is a food that has little appeal to me, except perhaps for reasons of oneupmanship.

Bux -- Why are you not interested in this food? For example, are you not curious about what the meat tastes like, or how, as a reporter on the Mitterand dinner described, the organs are tasted together with the rest of the bird? Or how, for versions drowned in Armagnac, Armagnac might leave slight residual flavors in the meat?  

(For other members -- The post to which Bux refers is under "Pierre Herme" in this forum. It refers to the reasons why some diners might find gratification from different restaurants.)

[cabrales]

  Bux said:

Without the feathers, the tail must be minuscule even if as fatty as a chicken's tail.

Bux -- On the area surrounding chicken's tails, that is something that is considered among the best parts of the bird in France (and by certain Chinese people).  I have eaten it a bit now (but only at one restaurant, in which I have complete confidence), but it might be an acquired taste on which I am still working.  Do you appreciate the meat surrounding chickens' tails?  

[pirate]

My first post. In May of 1971 I drove to Southwest France to eat ortolans

having been intrigued by the film "Gigi".They were completely legal at that time. I had them in the standard roasted form in their own fat. One at the 2 star restaurant (at that time) in Villeneuve de Marsan as an a la carte addon to the fixed menu. The second time I ordered 2 of them at the Post at Magescq (Sp?) which later got 2 stars from Michelin. I cut them in 2 or 3 pieces although you could  eat them in one piece. The bones and beak add a crunch. All dark meat. Absolutely the best birds I've ever had. Too bad they're illegal now. It seems also to be the case with other small game birds. Thank goodness we still can have squab.

Passing to another matter. I returned last week from Paris and ate lunch at Laserre, Elysees Vernet (both 2 stars) and the newly minted 3 star Guy Savoy. None worth a revisit on the basis of food.  In my opinion Tokyo has the best food in the world.

:wow:

[cabrales]

  pirate said:

I cut them in 2 or 3 pieces although you could  eat them in one piece. The bones and beak add a crunch. All dark meat. Absolutely the best birds I've ever had. ...

the newly minted 3 star Guy Savoy. None worth a revisit on the basis of food.  

pirate -- Welcome  

When you have a chance, could you please discuss the taste of ortolans a bit? For example, (1) your post makes it sound like you might have eaten the beak -- did you eat the whole head?, (2) how gamey was the ortolan -- would its flesh be closer to woodcock, for example, or more like pigeonneau? (3) did you taste the organs with the flesh (e.g., liver, heart)?, (4) were there any special aspects to the tail area?,(5) what was the wing area like, if you remember?, and (6) how fatty were the little ones? Sorry for all the questions.

On Guy Savoy, do you have any reactions to the summary of the meal described towards the end of the "Guy Savoy" thread in "France", or of mao or vivin's description of their meal there around the same time?  

[Bux]

  Quote

Why are you not interested in this food? For example, are you not curious

Curious and squeamish.

  Quote

your post makes it sound like you might have eaten the beak -- did you eat the whole head?

Does this offer any explanation.

My understanding is that one eats the whole bird, although the feet may be removed and I assume it is defeathered. Once in Japan I ate a small bird with it's tiny bones. It added a crunch, but I can't say I particularly enjoyed that part of it. Of course that does not mean that I wouldn't try it if I had the opportunity, but I would have some trepidation about my reaction. There are many foods I've not eaten, but few that I've refused when I had the chance.

  Quote

Do you appreciate the meat surrounding chickens' tails?

I'm not sure. How is it accessed and when is it served? There are many odd parts of a chicken that are small and attached to the bones in such a way as not to be practical to serve. This is in addition to the larger "oyster" mentioned in another thread. I generally pick these off the carcass of a whole chicken when I have access to it such as left overs from a roasted or braised bird. There is a piece of hard fat that I have no use for. I suspect that's not what you mean.

[cabrales]

  Bux said:

  Quote

Do you appreciate the meat surrounding chickens' tails?

I'm not sure. How is it accessed and when is it served?

Bux -- Sorry. I should have been clearer before, but it's the meat towards the end of the body of the chicken (so it's associated more with the derriere than with the tail, I suppose). I see it served at Chinese restaurants alot, although the only times I have taken it are at a French restaurant. I guess there's no "tail" meat for a chicken.

[Bux]

Presumably you are not talking about the thigh or any major piece of the chicken. How would I know it if I saw it and how is it identified on the menu?

[cabrales]

Bux -- When I've been able to identify the "end" piece of chicken at Chinese restaurants, the chicken has been chopped up and the set forth on the plate based on the relative locations of the various parts. This might be the case for certain fried chicken in Chinese restaurants, or chicken one might find at the congee stores. When that's the case, the "end" is just the part that is where the chicken terminates and which is not the head.

No French restaurant I know has this item actually set forth on the menu, though, and I have not experienced it with any frequency at French restaurants.  

[robert brown]

Bux, are the oyster and the pippick the same thing?

[Bux]

I thought we'd established in La Mere Brazier that the "oyster" = sot-l'y-laisse in French and is found somewhere in the middle on each side of the backbone of a chicken. The "pippicK" which I've always heard as "puppick" is, if I'm not mistaken, the gizzard. I could be very wrong on that as I also have a recollection of that word being used for a human, or at least a child's, belly button. The Yiddish of my childhood was never very clear if only for the reason that it was mostly used in my presence when I was not supposed to understand what adults were saying and at an early age, it was not clear that chickens did not have navels or that I might not have a gizzard.

[Bux]

Back on the original subject of Michelin's power and the shame of losing Amat as chef at the St. James in Boulliac, I've noted in a new thread French food guides that GaultMillau gave Amat's St. James an 18/20 and the Bottin awarded 3 out of a possible 4 stars, but the lack of a second Michelin star is the reason given for Amat's departure. I'm curious to know who they will choose to replace him and if their choice will have second thoughts about taking the job. I'd be curious to know how Amat was regarded by his peers.

[pirate]

Addendum to first post:

Checking the 1971 Michelin guide I find the first restaurant at which I has an ortolan was Darroze in Villeneuve-de-Marsan  (Michelin states among Sp\'ec.

Ortolans 15 mai-30juin -15sept.-30 oct.)  The second restaurant also had 2 stars : the Poste at Magescq. Ortolans are caught in nets then caged and fattened. I followed the instructions Gigi's aunt meted out: Eat everything. The bones and beak are so fragile it's like eating a cracker.  Meat is dark and smooth and velvety in texture. Closest thing is top grade duck breast rare (alas hard to find in Paris; last November I ordered it at the Bristol; when the waiter asked I stated that the quality was inferior. He came back and  said Frechet, the chef admitted it was hard to get top quality) Pigeon generally comes off better in France but the best I've had was at Clio in Boston. In any case ortolans are served in their melted fat and have a not very strong but delicious richness. With regard to Guy Savoy I was persuaded to try it again almost a week ago by the egullet postings despite being disappointed 6 or 7 years ago. I liked the new decor and service was excellent. The main dish was breast of Bresse chicken with morels at 70 euros. When I inquired about the morels I was told they were white (actually beige). I regard these as inferior to the black morels but was assured that they were as good and came from Savoy's birthplace in the Isere. They were not up to the black and as much mushroom flavor could be gotten from standard mushrooms (I cook).

[pirate]

correction Frechon not Frechet

[Patrice]

Amat is now the new chef at Bon in Paris.(G-M April 2002)