A Gault-Millau 19/20 Mystery Restaurant

[robert brown]

When perusing my copy of the 2002 Guide Gault-Millau, listed among the exhalted establishments receiving the maximum 19 points, I see a name I never saw before; that of L'Auberge Bretonne in La Roche Bernard, a town 30 km. or so west of Nantes. The chef-owner is Jacques Thorel. Apparently the Guide has moved him from 17 two years ago to 18 last year and now 19 this year. I believe that he has gone unmentioned on eGullet. Cabrales, you maybe want to think about this for the weekend.

[cabrales]

receiving the maximum 19 points . . . L'Auberge Bretonne in La Roche Bernard

Robert -- L'Auberge Bretonne not only has a 19/20, it also has the little G-M arrow pointing upwards (i.e., "Tendency -- up")!  

For members' convenience, below is a very rough translation of G-M's gushing commentary on the restaurant: "'The a la carte is for the regular patrons of Relais & Chateaux establishments who seek something standard. For creativity and new dishes, there is the [degustation] menu.'  Let's acknowledge that the reasoning of Solange Thorel holds together pretty well, and perhaps explain the disappointment experienced by certain readers who await a flamboyance that never materializes. This menu, which changes regularly, always has *marvels*. To begin with, a swirl of amuses, including beetroot and cherry mousse with vinegar, left us flabberghasted [in a good way]. This was followed by hake which, from the combined effect of a cream of artichoke and of beluga caviar, became the best fish in the world, surpassing, through an *unknown magic*, the finesse of bass. And then lobster, in its jus with herb and a dense and smooth orange-mango sauce, for which **one could grant a 20 out of 20** because everything about it was perfect -- creative without being [disconcerting], masterful without being [solely] a demonstration of technique.  Regular clients try, with the pigeonneau or with the veal kidney (____ in their fat, onctuous and strong), to save room for the burst of desserts -- seven jars and glasses of winning mousses; a phenomenal beaten milk (?) flavored with elder tree (?); a moving sliced rhubarb with macerated grapes. Sometimes a [pompous/blistering?] atmosphere weighs upon this restaurant, at times even a bit of anxiety. With the service of remarkable young persons and a new assistant female sommelier who shows that one can remain user-friendly in the context of such an impressive [wine list], Jacques and Solange Thorel appear to have come upon a **perfect [blossoming/debut]**.  

As for my visiting L'Auberge Bretonne, I'm going to defer and await a report from another member.  

[Bux]

Ate at L'Auberge Breton about five years ago and had a most disappointing meal. It can be summed up in one overcooked lobster in an otherwise fine dinner. Needless to say, it's stature seems to continue to rise in spite of my displeasure that year. Click for my comments on that meal. On that same web page you will find my report on Roellinger from that visit.

Robert, welcome back.

[robert brown]

Welcome back to you as well, Bux. Hurry up with your post about your stay in the countryside. I can't wait. I should have known you had been to L'Auberge Bretonne already, given your ties to Brittany. Maybe the chef is G-M's answer to Jean-Georges Klein. It's interesting that the Auberge is not firmly in the consciousness of the French haute-cuisine world. Maybe it really is as you found it to be.

Cabrales, I'm sorry you had to scrub your trip to Cancale. But it's always good to leave something on the table. Thanks so much for the translation. That was thoughtful, to say the least.

[stephen wall]

I ate there last summer, after seeing it in the R+C, in which it said that "reservations would have to be made months in advance".As is often the case,we just turned up and they managed to get us a table without much fuss.Four of us had that degustation menu, and it was something special.It was about 9 courses and 7 small desserts.Thank god we didnt have to go far after the meal, as they have 5 or 6 reasonably priced rooms as well.

[cabrales]

Apparently the Guide has moved him from 17 two years ago to 18 last year and now 19 this year.

Robert -- Below is a rough translation of the G-M commentary on the restaurant last year:

"The layout does not change: elegant tables framing the edge of salads and herbs inside a soup; a solemn team (which softens according to its perception of the client); the pass with porcelain [items underneath the bell?].  This almost robotic sequence could prove to be tiresome. It isn't that way, simply because Jacques Thorel's [culinary] display is much more distracting than a music class -- an appropriate compote of chorizo with red mullet; bass with very thin skin supported by the rustic flavor of an eel marinade; perfect lobster almost overshadowed by the accompanying passionate association of arichokes and rhubarb; pigonneau (more at ease on the apricot marmelade than the langoustines that overlap with it); marvellously tender lamb from Languiole. And we don't forget the calvary of amuse-bouche (special mention for the "bernique"? tartare), nor the wisely assembled desserts (blanc-manger made from milk and oats, with vanilla creme, wild strawberries and a hibiscus gelee; beaten milk (?) with elder tree wine). All of this capital kitchen merits one extra point. Our only reseration is that, ironically, the immense wine list (vertical and breathtaking, spanning France and the world . . .): one is intoxicated before being able to choose, seized by a form of the Stendhal syndrome, and one appreciates less the efforts of a slightly strict female sommeliere. Excellent menu at 210 FF [not euros] which renders rare pleasure accessible."

stephen wall -- Do you have any recollections relating to the wine list?

[stephen wall]

It was like a book!

[stephen wall]

You could either have the full version or the condensed sommeliers choices .We actually got a glass with each course,which is always nice with a degustation menu.

The actual list was extremely comprehensive with every area of France well served.But it also, to its credit, had many fine wines from Italy, SA , America and from further away (Romania,Moldova etc.It ALSO had AN extensive selection of old champagnes,ports,armagnacs etc.It also seemed to be quite good value.If you enter the chefs name on Yahoo, you can get their website(dont know how to give the link)

[Gavin Convery]

I ate here about 5 years ago but it was rather overshadowed by trips to Maison Bricourt.

From my recollection you sit around a central courtyard which is fully glazed where there appear to be vegetables growing - a nice touch. The presentation was excellent and I seem to recall enjoying the meal but that was 5 years ago. I think they had 2 michelin stars at that point and 17/20 in the G+M.