Indian fish dishes

[macrosan]

In Britain I guess we have more Indian and Pakistani restaurants than any other nationality, obviously due to our historical links with the Indian Empire. I have probably eaten in as many as 200 different Indian/Pakistani restaurants around the country.

And I can't remember seeing fish on the menu (apart from Chingri, or prawns) in more than a handful. One notable exception is an excellent South Indian restaurant, The Banana Leaf, near where I live, who have a few different

fish dishes.

Is this a feature of Indian cuisine, that fish are not widely used ? If so, I am surprised given the restrictions on meat in the two parts of the sub-continent (pork in one part, beef in the other). If not, then why is this part of the cuisine not "imported" to Britain ?

[Rachel Perlow]

While not in Britain, I had the best fish dish at our favorite Indian restaurant in New Jersey, Kinara. Tandori Trout was on the specials list. It was so succulent and the seasoning really perfumed the flesh. Billed as a whole fish, but the head & tail were cut off before service. I've never had a fish treated so simply at an Indian restaurant before. Usually fish dishes I've seen tend to be fillets poached in some kind of curry sauce.

[Simon Majumdar]

Macrosan

You need to get invited to a good Bengali home.  We cook the most wonderful fish dishes from fried pomfret to river fish in mustard oil and so on.

The reason that you don't see so much of this is restaurant food is that most brits wont eat boney fish, so you usually find it being kept for the bangla staff curry

Try asking them what they are eating and have some of that.

S

[mamster]

I had a really good fish dish at Nazim's in Vientiane last year.  The fish had been fried, then briefly stewed, so it retained some crunch and moistness despite the large quantity of spicy sauce.  So, like, when you're in the neighborhood.

[Suvir Saran]

Seafood is common fare to those parts of India where it is in abundance.  The south being one case and also the western part of India near Bombay and on the east the area around Calcutta.

I think what has happened across the globe as restaurants started, the ownership has mostly been in hands other than from the south or west.  The few owners that defied this grouping also followed the lead of the previously established restaurants.  The lead was to recreate dishes mostly from the north.

In New York we have a restaurant that is relatively new called Coconut Grove.  They have a fair representation of seafood and also southern food in general.

A friend of mine, a food critic from New York City, was amazed upon their trip to Bombay with the variety and quality of seafood served them.  It was amazing to them that they ate some of the best specimens of any category in Bombay.  For freshness, size and abundance that is.  

For some Hindus from these three regions, it is acceptable to eat fish.  They call it jol torai in Bengali, literally meaning fruit of the sea, and thus even the Brahman that follow a strict vegetarian diet, can consume seafood.

At Pondicherry restaurant in NYC that closed a few years ago, they served amazing mussels in a Southern Indian broth.  Most guests that had that dish would keep coming back for more.  So, if you travel through those parts of India where you have good quality fish, available fresh and locally, you will find many clever recipes and restaurants serving that fare.

In the north we have seasonal local fish.  And there are several recipes that have been made through the generations using them.  Many restaurants from the North will always have Amritsari Fish on their menus.  It is simply a batter-fried fish.

Then there is the issue that Indian food for the most part relies on slow and long cooking for many of the dishes.  This is changed in the case of fish.  Many chefs stay away from fish for logistical and practical reasons.  The addition of several fish dishes creates a separate protocol within the kitchen.  In NYC, many restaurants from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh serve but not always of great quality.  They often are overcooked.

As far as I can tell, Banana Leaf may be your best bet.  And their success could determine the opening of other Southern Indian fish friendly restaurants.  The cuisine of the South has an extensive seafood repertoire that is waiting to be exploited.

[Suvir Saran]

Simon is not embellishing the least bit when he speaks of the Bengali mastering of seafood.  It was Bengal that I referred to when I said fish is the vegetable of the sea comment.  They have many different ways of treating fish.  And in Bengali cooking, fish is enjoyed for many and all its subtle characteristics.  In fact some parts of eastern India use roe and make fritters with it that are succulent and wonderful.

And with that last comment, we are back to the home versus restaurant debate.  I think Simon is on target about bony fish and I feel most restaurants fear using recipes from that area for the same reason.  Sad but true.

And staff meals would be a great way for you to get a taste of that authentic fish curry.  It takes little to endear another human being, start a conversation, ask the server, busser or runner if they are from India... or Bengal... or Bangladesh, and then lead your way into the Fish curry question.  I am sure soon they will volunteer a tasting for you if you come during staff meal.  I have done that across NYC at many Indian restaurants and enjoyed meals that are totally authentic and no fuss foods from the sub-continent.

[Suvir Saran]

Tandoori whole fish are a reliable and common fare at Indian restaurants in the US for sure.  Simple, deeply flavored and not overcooked, they are a safe bet when craving fish in an Indian restaurant.  

Curries as I said before, can be very tricky, fish recipes cannot be re-heated, over cooked or over simmered.  Very few Indian restaurants make good fish curries.  While in homes across Bengal and in Southern India, these are staple recipes.

[macrosan]

We cook the most wonderful fish dishes from fried pomfret to river fish in mustard oil and so on

Yep, that's my favorite at the Banana Leaf, fried pomfret.

Now you mission Simon, should you choose to accept it, is to post a list of half a dozen Bengali London restaurants that do fish. Tanddor fish sounds really good...

[Simon Majumdar]

Listing Bengali food in London is difficult.  It is a home food and although many of the restaurants in London are run by Bengalis ( bangladeshi's from East Bengal rather than an old Ghoti like me )the food they serve up is rarely acceptable

Much better to try and cook it at home yourself.  Bengali food benefits from minimal spicing and the mustard fish my mum makes is made with only powdered mustard, ginger, the ever present tumeric and a dash of mustard oil.  Other dishes like fried neem leaves, fish rolls, fried pomftret, can be done with little or no effort in the home and to amazing effect

Happy to post the recipes

[Suvir Saran]

Simon,

You seem you proud and enthusiastic.  As you should be.  Bengali cooking is brilliant and not represented in places other  than the homes.  

What is a ghoti?  Sorry for not knowing it.

Would love to see your motheres recipes.  Would be inspiring for all of us.  Will give us a way of creating those home made treasures.

Thanks for the offering.

[Simon Majumdar]

A ghoti is one of the original occupants of Calcutta and the name is used in a slightly perjorative way now as it can summon up pictures of a Bhudda bellied Bapu with servants and a shining bald head ( hell, I am a Ghoti, whaddya know )

When I am back from the hell of Paris ( see General Board ) I shall happily post some of the things I learned from my Mum and Tarmar

S

[Suvir Saran]

And Ghati is the word for the original occupants of Bombay.  And again, not a flattering word today.  

Have a good time in France.  Look forward to sharing your mother and tarmars creations.

[jhlurie]

I've seen Salmon Curry in NY.

[Suvir Saran]

Salmon Curry is not really an authentic dish.  IN fact, to many Indians Salmon is not a great match with their Indian sauces.  But, it looks nice written on menus.  I have to be honest, in my catering career, I have sold more Salmon than any other fish.  Clients want Salmon.  They are closed to the idea of even trying another fish dish.

[anil]

Indian Fish traditions are divided into pond/river and sea. Bengalis prefer the pond/lake kind.

In fact the pride of any feast is "macher Jhole" that differenciates one cook from another  

In the West and South, the influences range from Malvani,Konkan,Goan,Keralite(Kozikode,Cochin style) -- all based on sea based fishes, Custacians etc. For people from other parts of India, having the raditional bengali fish curry is an experience    Many of the pond based fishes in Bengal are very very bony. While non-bengalis struggle even to have a small piece, the ghotis cream off a few big chunks in a blink.

In the West coast, Crabs,prawns,dried ghinga are the favourites.

[Simon Majumdar]

All Ghoti's are noted for three food related things

1) Love of bones.  When my family have chicken, the women eat the flesh, the men eat the bones and crispy skin.  I guess this is to do with love of texture.  I also adore pork crackling and picking at boney fish

2) A sweet tooth.  I have a real weakness for sweets and chocolate and good ice cream.  Although bizarrely, I cannot eat many of the milk based sweets of my homeland.

3) A tendency to gentle criticism.  If you serve a bengali dhal, he will invariably say " that was wonderful, but I wonder was the shop where you normally buy the lentils closed today?"  or if you serve mushu(sp?) dhal ( a bengali speciality cooked, quite runny and with lemons ) with lime instead of lemons which are much more expensive, he will say " that was delicious, quite the best I have ever had without lemons"

Perhaps that's where I get it from

who knew, it was in the genes all along

[Suvir Saran]

Simon and Anil, what would we do without you two.  Wow... your knowledge and understanding of Indian food and culture is brilliant.  Thanks for sharing your thoughts in these posts.

[Suvir Saran]

Macrosan

You need to get invited to a good Bengali home.  We cook the most wonderful fish dishes from fried pomfret to river fish in mustard oil and so on.

The reason that you don't see so much of this is restaurant food is that most brits wont eat boney fish, so you usually find it being kept for the bangla staff curry

Try asking them what they are eating and have some of that.

S

Simon are there any recipes you could share with us?

I have always loved the way Bengalis treat fish... any recipes from Tarmar?

What fish would you use in your dishes? How do you make that choice?

[Beachfan]

Like Rachel, the best Indian fish dish I had was tandoori trout. Farm raised but very, very fresh, with great spicing, crisp skin, not overcooked. Super. I won't order tandoori prawns again if the trout is available (unless perhaps I'm in a very high end Indian restaurant).

[wingding]

There are a lot of wonderful fish 'curries' from the coasts of southern India-fish simmered in coconut milk,tamarind,etc.Unfortunately,they aren't served often enough in the western world...they are delicious.Also never seen here,is Bombay duck..

[Suvir Saran]

Ajwaini Jaul Torai (Grilled Carom Spiced Swordfish)

“Jaul Torai” would literally mean zucchini of the ocean. The Bengali Brahmins who would otherwise be vegetarian eat seafood keeping that in mind. They consider seafood vegetables of the ocean. Ajwain (carom seed) is often used to season fish in India. Carom seeds are known for their digestive properties. Also they give a very light and welcome aroma to the fish. The mint and the yogurt add to the very delicate seasoning and as a whole the dish is very perky and a great summer recipe. To hang yogurt you can simply tie nonfat yogurt in a double lining of cheese cloth and let it hang for a couple of hours in the refrigerator. The whey will separate giving you a dense yogurt. This coats the fish better than plain yogurt. You can always use plain yogurt but use a couple of less tablespoons.

4 5-7 ounce swordfish fillets, should be nice and thick

1-1/4 tsp zeera (cumin seeds), coarsely ground

1/2 tsp saunf (fennel seeds) , coarsely ground

1-1/2 tsp ajwain (carom seeds), coarsely ground

1/2 inch fresh ginger root

2 tbsp fresh mint leaves

1 small and hot green chili

1 tsp garam masala

1/2 tsp haldi (turmeric powder)

1 tsp red chili powder

1/2 tsp chaat masala

1 tbsp lemon or lime juice

8 tbsp hung yogurt

salt (to taste)

lemon wedges for garnish

Wash and pat dry the sword fish fillets. Keep in the refrigerator.

In a small food processor, blend the ginger, mint and green chilies into a paste.

Now add the zeera, ajwain, saunf, red chili powder, chaat masala, haldi, garam masala and salt into this paste. Mix in the lemon or lime juice.

Add the hung yogurt and mix again until nice and smooth.

Dip each fillet into this marinade and coat evenly on both sides.

Save any of the remaining marinade in the refrigerator.

Cover and marinade the fillets in the refrigerator for a couple of hours.

Heat the grill until the coals are very hot.

Brush the grill with canola.

Place the swordfish on the grill and cook until light brown on both sides. Brush the fillets with the marinade as you turn them.

The grilling should take around 5-7 minutes one each side. The fish should me very soft and flaky by this time.

Serve with lemon wedges and chutneys of your choice.

[Suvir Saran]

Saas ni Maachee (Fish with Gravy)

To those that have lived in Bombay and have attended Parsi weddings, this dish is very familiar. It brings you the sweet and the sour elements that set Parsi cuisine apart. The besan thickens the sauce and also gives a very subtle nutty flavor. The vinegar almost cleanses the palate after each bite, making the taste buds ready for the next round. Served with steaming rice and some daal, this makes for a complete meal in a Parsi home.

1 pound halibut, skinned, washed and cut into 2 inch pieces

2 large eggs, whisked well

1/4 cup rice vinegar

6 cloves of garlic

1 tsp cumin powder

3 small and hot green chilies, chopped finely

1 generous fistful cilantro leaves, chopped

3 tbsp besan (chickpea flour)

3 vine grown ripe tomatoes, medium dice

1 tsp red chili powder

salt (to taste)

2-1/2 tbsp canola

sugar to taste

Mix the cumin powder with the besan. To this add the green chilies and the cilantro and set aside.

Heat the canola over medium flame in a heavy bottomed sauce pan.

Add the besan mix and saute the mix until the besan exudes its nutty aroma and looks a light golden brown. Add the red chili powder, and then quickly add the tomatoes and stir fry for a minute or two.

Add the water and mix the contents of the pan nicely. Add the sugar, no more than a tablespoon or so. Keep mixing and stirring for 3 minutes.

Add the fish and gently mix the contents. Bring to a gentle boil and then reduce the heat.

Simmer for a couple of minutes and then remove the pan from the fire. Set aside.

To the whisked eggs add the vinegar. Beat the two very well.

Holding the egg and vinegar mix in one hand, use your other hand to stir the mix into the fish sauce. Stir gently and well.

Bring the sauce pan back onto a gentle flame and cook sauce until the fish is done. It should almost break to the touch.

Add salt to your taste and serve.

[Suvir Saran]

Tandoori Whole Fish

* 4 pompanos, Dorade or any small fish, each around 1 pound in weight.

* 2 tsp. carom seeds

* 3 tbs. cream

* 2 1/2 tsp. cumin powder

* 4 tsp. garlic paste

* 5 tsp. ginger paste

* 4 tsp. gram flour (besan)

* 3 tbs. lemon juice

* 3 tsp. red chili powder

* 1 tsp. turmeric, optional

* 1 tsp. white pepper powder

* 1/4 cup hung yogurt

* salt to taste

* oil / melted butter for basting

Clean the fish well and make 3 deep diagonal cuts on each side. Mix yogurt with cream, ginger and garlic pastes, carom seeds, gram flour, white pepper, red chili and cumin powders, lemon juice, salt and turmeric if desired.

Rub mixture on both sides of the fish. Set aside for 2 or 3 hours.

Skewer fish from mouth to tail and roast in a tandoor or grill for 6 minutes or in a preheated oven at 350?F. for 10 minutes.

Remove from grill or oven and hang skewers to drip off excess moisture for 5 minutes.

Baste with butter or oil and roast again for 5 minutes

[Suvir Saran]

SALMON “EN PAPILLOTE” WITH CATHY L's TOMATO CHUTNEY

Patra Ni Machhi

Serves 4

4 skinless salmon fillets, 6 to 8 ounces each (about 1 inch thick)

1 teaspoon salt

Juice of 1 lemon

Tomato Chutney

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

8 fresh curry leaves

1. Sprinkle the fish all over with salt and lemon juice and refrigerate 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, for the chutney, combine the tomato chutney with the lemon juice and curry leaves.

3. Preheat the oven to 450?F.

4. Cut a piece of aluminum foil about 15 inches long and lay it on a work surface, one of the short sides facing down. Brush the bottom half with a little oil. Spoon about one-eighth of the chutney on the bottom half of the foil rectangle and spread it out to a rectangle about the size of the salmon fillet, lying crosswise on the foil. Set one fillet on top of the chutney and cover with another eighth of the chutney. Fold the top half of the foil rectangle over the salmon so that the top and bottom edges meet. Fold the bottom edge up about 1/4 inch, and then fold it up twice more. Do the same on both sides to completely seal the salmon in the foil package. Repeat to make three more packages.

5. Put the packages in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake until they puff, 11 to 12 minutes. Cut the packages open and slide the fish and chutney out onto plates. Serve hot.

[Suvir Saran]

Below is the link for the recipe and thread on Tomato Chutney

Tomato Chutney