Non-Champagne faves?

[jbonne]

some post-NYE notes ...

we tried the Gruet brut and Roederer Estate again last Thursday night, plus an Argyle '99. the Argyle was the clear winner, mostly because its mousse was sturdier than the others, which had bubbles that started strong but sort of died early. not to say i didn't enjoy 'em all, but it was interesting to compare them head to head. also, i picked up a few more deep, robust notes in the Argyle, which is funny because it's 85% chard, more than Roederer and (i think) Gruet.

as we drank, one of the folks reiterated his preference for the Gruet blanc de noirs, making me think i should line the brut and the BdN up toe to toe next time.

ranged across a lot of NV Champagne on Friday night, but the crowd-pleaser ended up being our magnum of Mountain Dome, with which we toasted in the new year. had a bit fuller profile than most of what we were drinking, some nice secondary notes and a mousse that approached those complex bubbles the French seem to have mastered. i chalk it up to the 65% pinot composition, but maybe it was the virtues of a magnum -- or just the party setting.

in any case, all of these should be pleasing enough and worthwhile.

Chef Friese: enjoyed your piece very much just now. my only thing with not going down the cava route is that i've already drunk so much cava this year, and it's not wanting for attention. though the tapas-riffic cover story in last week's NYT food section makes me think it's about to get another round of plaudits.

how did anyone else toast the new year?

Edited January 3, 2005 by jbonne (log)

[Jason Perlow]

we tried the Gruet brut and Roederer Estate again last Thursday night, plus an Argyle '99. the Argyle was the clear winner, mostly because its mousse was sturdier than the others, which had bubbles that started strong but sort of died early. not to say i didn't enjoy 'em all, but it was interesting to compare them head to head. also, i picked up a few more deep, robust notes in the Argyle, which is funny because it's 85% chard, more than Roederer and (i think) Gruet.

Aren't the Gruet Brut and the regular Gruet NV both Blanc de Noirs? The Argyle is Pinot Noir heavy, but its a chard/pinot mix, right?

[Jason Perlow]

I think Argyle changed its mix. The 1996 and the 1997 were heavier on Pinot Noir, it was 25 percent Pinot and 75 percent Chard. I have some of that at home, along wih the Extended Tirage 1991.

http://www.argylewinery.com/cgi-local/Soft...997_BRUT15.html

The -Extended Tirage- is 40 percent Pinot Noir, thats probably why I thought it was Pinot Heavy.

[MaxH]

I think Argyle changed its mix. The 1996 and the 1997 were heavier on Pinot Noir, it was 25 percent Pinot and 75 percent Chard.

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This kind of thing can be an issue, the more so with moderately-priced NV sparklers. 20-25 years ago, when much or most of the premium Meth. Champ. sparkling wine from California was made by Domaine Chandon, that firm offered two regular NV products, the Brut and the Blanc-de-Noirs. From year to year, though not vintage-labeled, the two would shift noticeably. In years when the Brut was rich and well fruited the B-de-N might seem a little cloying, but when the Brut was austere, the B-de-N could be more balanced. That's how I recall it, anyway; but the point is that people expressing a consistent preference for one or the other would sometimes forget that even (or especially) "NV" wines are made from different grapes, year to year.

By the way, Dom. Chandon has increased its production volume radically since those days.

-- Max

[jbonne]

Aren't the Gruet Brut and the regular Gruet NV both Blanc de Noirs? The Argyle is Pinot Noir heavy, but its a chard/pinot mix, right?

i think they're doing one as a straight BdN and one as a blended brut. but i should go home tonight and check the bottles again ...

[davidbdesilva]

At the risk of getting laughed at, I really enjoy a fine Moscato d'Asti. Incredibly sweet I know, but it's really liquid sunshine and really enjoyable. I also enjoy Brachetto d'Acqui as well with it's lovely strawberry nose. And Ca de Bosco (I think that's what it's called, help me out Katie) is my favorite red sparkler, but hard to find. This makes it sound that I only like sweet Italian sparklers, which is not true. I love 'em dry and toasty as well. Personally, I think that a good rule in life is that one should never pass up the opportunity to drink champagne (or any other sparkler for that matter).

[Devotay]

At the risk of getting laughed at, I really enjoy a fine Moscato d'Asti. Incredibly sweet I know, but it's really liquid sunshine and really enjoyable.

Not at all, I think you're right. I especially like the Moscato d'Asti from Michele Chiarlo and Bricco Riela

[KatieLoeb]

At the risk of getting laughed at, I really enjoy a fine Moscato d'Asti. Incredibly sweet I know, but it's really liquid sunshine and really enjoyable.

Not at all, I think you're right. I especially like the Moscato d'Asti from Michele Chiarlo and Bricco Riela

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David:

Ca del Bosco is probably the most recognized producer of sparkling wines of the Franciacorta DOCG. Maurizio Zanella is the winemaker and has made it his personal mission to have the sparkling wines of Franciacorta recognized and respected throughout the world.

There's the Brachetto d'Acqui you mentioned earlier that's a sweet red sparkler (and possibly the most delicious thing on earth with chocolate ) and there's another red sparkling wine called Freisa di Chieri from Piedmont, made from the Freisa grapes that also produce still red Freisa d'Asti. Can be dry or slightly sweet, just frizzante or full out sparkling. It seems you have a fondness for wines of this part of Italy!

Moscato d'Asti definitely qualifies as liquid sunshine! I like the Marenco Moscato d'Asti myself. Has a lovely nose of honeysuckle and apricots that just makes me smile. And it makes a delicious float with a little scoop of vanilla gelato in it! Really!

[davidbdesilva]

I will definitely have to try the Moscato with a scoop of vanilla gelato! That sound utterly delish. Thanks for the help with the Ca del Bosco vineyard. I once found it at a speciality store (Maple Glen) but have not seen it since. I have seen Banfi Brachetto which I like.

[Sthitch]

My favorite non-Champagne Blanc-de-Blanc is Syn from Australia. I have had nothing but raves when I have served it. As for Cava, I like 1+1=3, a true bargin. Otherwise I drink Champagne.

[Brad Ballinger]

I'm coming late to this party, but I've had computer crises. Hopefully cured now.

For French methode champenoise wines, I've enjoye a Cremant d'Alsace -- over there, and I can't recall the name. I don't get to see many of these wines in Minnesota, but I'd certainly like to find more.

I've also enjoyed Baumard's Cremant de Loire, and Huet's Vouvray Petillant Brut. The latter one, in particular, is an incredibly complex sparkler.

From Italy, the Spumante Riserva del Fondatore wines of Giulio Ferrari are stunning when there is age on them. And Rocche dei Manzoni brands a spumante from Piedmont under the name Valentino. It's vinified "brut zero" dry, and is a blend of chardonnay and pinot nero.

[jrufusj]

I've also enjoyed Baumard's Cremant de Loire, and Huet's Vouvray Petillant Brut.  The latter one, in particular, is an incredibly complex sparkler.

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Brad:

Although I'm a big fan of Loire chenin blanc, for some reason or other I've never tried either of these sparklers. My Loire sparkling experience is limited to some mediocre Montlouis. Perhaps that's what's put me off.

Huet's whole line of Vouvray, from sec to moelleux (though I haven't had the chance to try the Cuvee Constance), and Baumard's whole line, but particularly the Quarts de Chaume, are among my favorites, so I need to try their sparklers.

Looking at winesearcher, it looks like these are priced at low/mid teens for the whites and high teens for Baumard's rose. Have you tried the rose? I love good rose Champagne, but have found roses from most other sparkling areas to be a little heavy and insipid, lacking acid. That shouldn't be a problem in the Loire, I would hope, particularly from such conscientious producers. Do you know if they grow the fruit or if it is bought in? Have you tried Huet's with any age? Any notes on any of these? If they're really good, that's a hell of a value.

Do these get good distribution? Huet can be hard to find in general, but is well distributed here in Tokyo.

Sorry for the barrage of questions, but I'm intrigued.

Thanks,

Jim

[Brad Ballinger]

Jim,

The Baumards I've add have all been of the non-rose variety. And I don't know if the assemblage of the rose, or even if the red in it is pinot noir or cabernet franc.

Here's a TN I wrote a while back on the 1998 Huet Vouvray Petillant Brut: Minerals and baked golden delicious apples combine for a truly inviting aroma. “petillant-level” fizz/mousse – just enough to keep it interesting and not supplanting the wines natural acidity. A very pure and clean wine. Flavors of cooked apple and raw pear (with skin). Nicely balanced, approachable, and rewarding. A wine that takes little effort to enjoy and continuously surprised with every sip.

As far as distribution, I dont' know. I'm looking at Huet's web site, and the only sparkling wine listed right now is the 2000 Cuvee Huet Brut (this is not the Vouvray Petillant). Production was 73,420 bottles -- so there's a lot of it somewhere.

[jbonne]

Huet seems to make its way around a good bit, but haven't seen the Baumards. but then, Seattle wine distribution is totally quixotic.

[djzouke]

I lucked out on Imperial Guinot when you could still order wine from California into NY. It's a cremant brut from Limoux that has a fine bead and rounded full fruit. I bought a case when I worked retail in upstate NY shipped from NJ. They are now able to ship directly into NY. Contact Dennis Yeast (dennis@pacific-estates.com) for info. Retails for about $14.

[TarteTatin]

We also love Gruet and Cremant D'alsace and Moscato D'asti...

Just came back from private visits to three wineries in the Loire.

Poniatowski's/Baudoin-- Sap Nature is delicious and inexpensive, its almost got a hint of Calvados in it, or possibly D'anjou since its right next door.

Arnance B at Ampelidae was 5 euros a bottle three weeks ago at the winery, and damn good! Clean and fresh.

They are about to get their organic wine approval (took five years). Interesting, they aren't part of any appellation (sp?) in Poitiers, about 45 minutes south of Tours/Vouvray.

Fabrice Gasnier's place in Chinon just started this year to make Sparkling, and we didn't get to try it...

Great trip, though, and we had lots of Sparkling to shout, "Bonne Annee" with at the Pont Marie in Paris when we got back on New Year's eve!

[KatieLoeb]

We also love Gruet and Cremant D'alsace and Moscato D'asti...

Just came back from private visits to three wineries in the Loire.

Poniatowski's/Baudoin-- Sap Nature is delicious and inexpensive, its almost got a hint of Calvados in it, or possibly D'anjou since its right next door.

Arnance B at Ampelidae was 5 euros a bottle three weeks ago at the winery, and damn good! Clean and fresh.

They are about to get their organic wine approval (took five years). Interesting, they aren't part of any appellation (sp?) in Poitiers, about 45 minutes south of Tours/Vouvray.

Fabrice Gasnier's place in Chinon just started this year to make Sparkling, and we didn't get to try it...

Great trip, though, and we had lots of Sparkling to shout, "Bonne Annee" with at the Pont Marie in Paris when we got back on New Year's eve!

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TarteTatin:

I just put the Armance B on my list by the glass this week to have with the oysters! How awesome that you visited the winery. My understanding is that the locals in Marigny eat a lot of oysters and that the local wines (made with the Folle Blanche grape in addition to Chardonnay and/or Sauvignon Blanc) are all quite well suited to the cuisine. Did you find that to be true?

If you have photos of Ampelidae and e-mail them to me to show my staff, there's a round of Armance and some oysters waiting for you!