American chefs

[pia]

Hi Faith, I’m happy to meet you also here! I’m Pia, Igles Corelli’s wife and I’m writing in his behalf since he is not registered as eGulleter, … not yet at least.

This is his question:

Dear Faith, I know how deep your knowledge of Italian cuisine is and how restlessly you travel in Italy (by the way, when will you come to Ostellato?), but I won’t ask you now anything about Italian cuisine.

Instead, I can’t forget your contribution when, back in 1992, we brought to Argenta (next to Ferrara, Italy) some of the most reputed American chefs (at that time, at least), like Mark Miller, Susan Spicer, Hans Röckenwagner, John Sedlar and Susan Regis (Biba). Do you remember? It was the Saperi e Sapori Festival and it has been also thanks to your advice that we accepted the challenging task to introduce Italians to the American “haute cuisine”. Still now for most Italians United States is the land of hamburgers and junk food. I remember you explaining me about the main culinary regions in the States, their characteristics, their differences; how the traditions imported from immigrants were transformed by local ingredients and, in some cases, by melting with native cookery, in uniquely American versions. You (and Mauro Vincenti) were right! It was a surprise 12 years ago, for me, for the Italian press invited to the event, for the guests, to discover great unusual flavours, superb techniques, everything far away from French influence (as we may have expected). They prepared a wonderful 5-courses dinner, almost entirely native American, with no contamination from other cultures, or, if any, marked from a long acquaintance. I had the feeling of creative freedom, freshness, as if due to the lack of any burden from traditions to be respected. Very stimulating, indeed.

I’m curious to be up-dated, if you know, … how is the situation at present? Are there good chefs who propose American traditional cookery, who have been able to absorb ethnical influences in such a way that what they cook is not anymore acknowledgeable as Italian, French, Japanese, Irish or whatsoever? How are they reputed in the States (or how is their cooking considered)? Is there the feeling of belonging to a peculiar regional culture, as far as food & cooking are concerned?

Thanks

Igles Corelli

[Faith Willinger]

Ciao Pia and Igles

What a thrill to hear from you. Readers should know that Igles is a master, just the kind of chef that I love, with respect for his territory, vast knowledge and experience, and a creative approach to tradition. I can't wait to go to Ostellato to Osteria della Tamerice. I had a fantastic lunch with Igles and Pia at the Salone del Gusto in the stand of the province of Ferrara, where Igles directed the preparation of traditional dishes, served with style, and the best Ferrarese bread (which I usually despise) I've ever tasted.

I think that great things are happening with American food, a focusing on artisanal ingredients, the rebirth of farmers markets. Italy has been an enormous influence, I don't think there's a restaurant in the US that doesn't have at least some Italian ingredients on the menu--extra virgin, risotto, pasta balsamico are found in non-Italian restaurants. The problem is that some chefs use these ingredients without really understanding them. But, as the Italians would say, "pazienza", patience. Thomas Keller and Nancy Oakes are stellar examples that come to mind of non-Italian restaurant chefs who use Italian ingredients with knowlege and flair.

a presto

Faith

Hi Faith, I’m happy to meet you also here! I’m Pia, Igles Corelli’s wife and I’m writing in his behalf since he is not registered as eGulleter, … not yet at least.

This is his question:

Dear Faith, I know how deep your knowledge of Italian cuisine is and how restlessly you travel in Italy (by the way, when will you come to Ostellato?), but I won’t ask you now anything about Italian cuisine.

Instead, I can’t forget  your contribution when, back in 1992, we brought to Argenta (next to Ferrara, Italy) some of the most reputed American chefs (at that time, at least), like Mark Miller, Susan Spicer, Hans Röckenwagner, John Sedlar and Susan Regis (Biba). Do you remember? It was the Saperi e Sapori Festival and it has been also thanks to your advice that we accepted the challenging task to introduce Italians to the American “haute cuisine”.  Still now for most Italians United States is the land of hamburgers and junk food. I remember you explaining me about the main culinary regions in the States, their characteristics, their differences; how the traditions imported from immigrants were transformed by local ingredients and, in some cases, by melting with native cookery, in uniquely American versions. You (and Mauro Vincenti) were right! It was a surprise 12 years ago, for me, for the Italian press invited to the event, for the guests, to discover great unusual flavours, superb techniques, everything far away from French influence (as we may have expected). They prepared a wonderful 5-courses dinner, almost entirely native American, with no contamination from other cultures, or, if any, marked from a long acquaintance. I had the feeling of creative freedom, freshness, as if due to the lack of any burden from traditions to be respected. Very stimulating, indeed.

I’m curious to be up-dated, if you know, … how is the situation at present? Are there good chefs who propose American traditional cookery, who have been able to absorb ethnical influences in such a way that what they cook is not anymore acknowledgeable as Italian, French, Japanese, Irish or whatsoever? How are they reputed in the States (or how is their cooking considered)? Is there the feeling of belonging to a peculiar regional culture, as far as food & cooking are concerned?

Thanks

Igles Corelli

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