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Best *** French


ErinB

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I'm going to take a friend out to dinner who's never been to a fancy restaurant. He's been to a few nice places ... but nothing fancy.

So, I want to take him to French and to a place that he can get a tasting menu, because I think he'll like the mutiple course experience.

It's also really important to me that we go to a place that does really well with their wine pairings and selections, so he can really get the importance of wine and food pairings.

If I was taking him to a restaurant of my choice, I'd probably take him to ADNY of Per Se, but I think it would be a little over the top for someone who's never been to a restaurant like that.

So, I'm looking for a suggestion for a French place that has an excellent tasting menu with wine pairings. I'm looking to spend around $75-$100 for the tasting menu (without the wine) but am flexible on price.

I was thinking about Chanterelle.

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I think Fleur de Sel would be perfect for what you have in mind. Even though it's considered a bistro, the food is really more haute than bistro. Chef/owner Cyril Renaud was, at one time, chef at La Caravelle, and the food he serves at Fleur de Sel is creative and delicious.

The tasting menu we had a few months ago was superb in every respect. It's 6 courses for $75. For each of the first 4 courses, there are two choices. Since my husband and I liked them all, we ordered all eight and shared them. There were then two desserts which were served to both of us. That made 10 different items that we were able to sample. Portions, though not huge, were more than adequate, so that when we finished, we were not stuffed but very satisfied.

As for the wine, I don't drink, but my husband had the wine pairings and was very pleased with them. 6 pours for $35.

The dining room at Fleur de Sel is small with very charming decor, including artwork by Chef Renaud. While I'm not sure I'd use the word "fancy," it's definitely upscale. Though many diners come casually dressed, you can dress up, if you wish, without feeling out of place.

I think Fleur de Sel is the kind of place where your friend would not feel in the least intimidated while offering him the opportunity to taste some truly excellent French cuisine.

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Seem's like ages ago when my wife and I as a young couple went to Lutece with expectations of having the meal of a life time.

We dined out often but this was our first time to one of the grand temples of french cuisine and we could have not been more excited.

While Andre Soltner could not have been more charming when he visited our table and the food was memorable.

But what stand's out in our memory is the maitre d' approaching our table and giving us a quick eye to toe observation in which his smile left his face as if we had the ebola virus.

As he walked away I asked my wife if my fly happened to be down.

We were never offered a wine list and the whole evening we felt like we were out of place and could not understand why as we were polite and dressed appropriately.

I'm telling you this story because as we were new to high end dining we felt intimidated and did not return to another high end french restaurant for years.

It's unlikely anywhere in New York you and your friend will encounter the nose in air service that we did has it is a bygone era.

But many people new to fine dining have a preconceived notion of our demon maitre d' at Lutece.

So my opinion is spend a bit more and take your friend to Per Se, the servers make you feel like family and the food is to die for, but most of all your friend will never forget his introduction to great restaurant's.

Robert

Robert R

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I don't know if Daniel has a tasting menu, but their prix fixe menu is in your price range and offers 3 courses, plus you're likely to get an amuse bouche, etc. not to mention the royal treatment. Le Bernardin has a tasting for $135 according to their website and a 4-course prix fixe (last time I went) for $89.

Service at Daniel is very attentive while still giving plenty of space to enjoy the meal. The room is--dare I say--luscious and totally extravagent but such a sight. To me, Daniel is the epitome of a special night restaurant and would be a great intro to fancy French dining. A note: Last time we went, small talk with one of our waiters led to a tour of the kitchen (which is huge) and an introduction to Daniel. Now, if that isn't service, I don't know what is...

Le Bernardin is also an excellent choice. Service was friendly and the whole vibe of the place was much less stuffy and formal than at Daniel. Food was fresh, precisely prepared and just such fun. Loved the tasting of fluke.

good luck and let us know what you choose!

"After all, these are supposed to be gutsy spuds, not white tablecloth social climbers."

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Ok, here's a more specific question. Has anyone had the tasting menu at Babbo? The pasta tasting menu and the wine are clearly extremely well thought out and perfectly paired.

Is there any French that compares in that sense, aside from something like Per Se or ADNY?

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Nobody has commented on your initial thought of Chanterelle. I have had excellent experiences there. Not only is the food superb, but I find the space and service very enjoyable. Their tasting menu is $105 for food plus an additional $75 for matched wines. Their website (which shows the current menu) is www.chanterellenyc.com.

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Went to Fleur de Sel for my birthday this year. Had the tasting menu and a couple of additional courses. The best dish was the Goat Cheese & Artichoke Ravioli in Red Beet-Dijon Jus. Worst dish (not on tasting menu) was the Suckling Pig and Foie Gras Terrine. Actually, all of the dishes were great except for the terrine, which had a nice texture, but lacked flavor.

I am a huge fan of Tocqueville, which I think is very underrated. I have been meaning to go back. Not sure if it is still on the menu, but they had a stuffed quail dish (with foie gras?) with little bits of bacon and a quail egg. It is still one of the best appetizers I have had.

Had lunch at Chanterelle about six months ago and although the food was good, there was nothing that really grabbed me, except the room, which is wonderful. It was gorgeous during the day with light coming in from high windows. The service is very formal, which can be fun sometimes.

Bouley has long been one of my favorites. It's the top-rated restaurant that I have eaten at the most. I have always like his food and enjoyed the tasting menu last time there. One thing I would avoid, though, is the kobe beef, which was tough and lacking in flavor (have seen similar posts on eGullet with similar comments).

Montrachet is sometimes excellent, sometimes mediocre, depending on the chef. When Harold Moore was there, it was very good. I haven't been since he left for Blue Hill, but having worked in Tribeca for some time, I had a fondness for it.

Le Bernardin is wonderful, but perhaps a tasting menu of all fish would be a little overwhelming for a first-timer.

I would personally choose either Toqueville or Fleur de Sel, although Chanterelle is certainly an approachable restaurant, as is Bouley.

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."

~ Fernand Point

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I'm a big fan of Cafe Boulud. A bit less expensive than Daniel and in many ways more consistent. There doesn't seem to be a tasting menu, but they do have many wines by the glass. I'm sure that the sommelier would be happy to pair wines to whatever you or your friend order.

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While I agree with you about Veritas, (1) it's not a French restaurant and (2) they do not, to my knowledge, offer a tasting menu.

Both good points. They have a prix fixe, but not a tasting menu.

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."

~ Fernand Point

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I'd bet that db bistro would arrange a tasting menu if you called in advance and asked. I'm absolutely sure that Cafe Boulud can arrange a tasting menu. Perhaps I should ask how many courses you're considering before I say absolutely about anything. I'm sure Cafe Boulud could do three savory courses and a couple of desserts without batting an eye. It may not appear on the menu and they may only offer it to regulars, but I'm still willing to wager that if you call in advance they'd accommodate you. I think the five course tasting menu at Daniel is around $120 and Daniel has always offered tasting menus, it's just that they make them up for the table and tailor them to your tastes, so it's never a posted menu. Cafe Boulud was the restaurant that first came to my mind on reading your post and the more I read, the more certain I was it's a good choice and my first suggestion.

If you're willing to do fish, I'd offer Oceana as another fine choice. I think the regular three course menu is $72. I don't know the price of the tasting menu, but in general the atmosphere is a bit more relaxed then le Bernardin, not that I find le Bernardin stuffy either.

If you're willing to go a bit more downscale and downtown, Blue Hill offers three courses and two desserts for around $65--or at least that's what I recall. They will do wine pairing and I think the food is superbly fine. The downscale is really a matter of tighter seating and less dressy crowd rather than a gastronomic downscale.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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I'd bet that db bistro would arrange a tasting menu if you called in advance and asked.

I am sure they would as well. In fact I think the tasting menu at DB is the best deal in town and the guys there seemed to really enjoy doing that with wine pairings.

If you're willing to do fish, I'd offer Oceana as another fine choice. I think the regular three course menu is $72.

Oceana is my all time favorite restaurant of the moment, but I would hardly call it French.

Ya-Roo Yang aka "Bond Girl"

The Adventures of Bond Girl

I don't ask for much, but whatever you do give me, make it of the highest quality.

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So, I called Cafe Boulud and they will do a tasting menu with wine pairing.

The menu there really appeals to me, as Boulud's style of cooking.

I'm still not 100% decided, as I'm also still thinking about Chanterelle, and Fleur de Sel.

I don't want to do Bouley, just because I've already been there twice and am being selfish and want to try a new place.

Definitely don't want to do Oceana and don't want to do DB Bistro Moderne.

Too many decisions.

In terms of courses, I think it would be great if we could do a 5 course meal to get that whole experience. But, it's not essential.

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