The Square - new tasting menu

[Jon Tseng]

Did you have the tasting menu or ALC? Half a Scallop in a tasting menu is simply mean.

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Yes and I think the crab tortellini (basically the degustation version of the famous crab lasagne) was simply that. One tortellini.

Heck if I want pay seventy quid to be underfed I'll just go to Atelier

J

ps grabbed a quick bite at the bar at Maze last nite. very nice - remarkably unovercooked fish - and unlike atelier you actually get fed. Maze is to Atelier what Racine is to Galvin Bistro Moderne - the same thing just a bit earlier and a bit less "in".

[Andy Fenn]

So, 3 years with the girlfriend down, and a meal at the Square to celebrate. We had a wonderful evening, sat at our table for over 4 hours. However, the food lacked the sparkle we expected.

Two glasses of champagne arrived moments after we did. Phil Howard came out to ask us what we fancied. There were two tasting menus available - the normal, and the "Autumn Mushroom and Truffle Menu". Both looked great. So Phil said to have both. Normal for me, mushrooms for Zoe. We were excited.

Course 1

Me: Oxtail Consomme with warm winter canapes and horseradish.

This was great. Intense flavour of oxtail served in a large shot glass, but with the lightness of texture and clarity one would expect from a consomme. The horseradish foam imparted a sweet heat. On the side, an egg shell filled with yolk and wild mushrooms. Promising start.

Zoe: Veloute of cepes with a tortellini of lobster and white truffle from Alba

Luxurious and light. Beautiful flavour and texture. Excellent.

Course 2

Me: Roast Isles of Orkney Scallops with curried parsnip puree, and a vinaigrette of pomegranate, grapes, capers and lime.

The scallops weren't the best, and the accompaniment felt a little disjointed. Nice textural contrast from the pomegranate seeds, but the puree overpowered a little and didn't gel that well with the lighter stuff.

Zoe: Salad of cauliflower, cepes, beaufort and autumn truffle

Crunchy salad, with nuts and cheese. Nice, but nothing special.

Course 3

Me: Tortellini or Cornish Crab with a champagne foam

You all know about this dish already. Probably my favourite of the night, it was well bound, and coated in a superb shellfish reduction. Can't compare with its layered lasagne big brother, but this was very good.

Zoe: Salad of langoustines with parmesan gnocchi and white truffle from Alba

The single langoustine was overcooked, and couldn't stand up to the other flavours in the dish. Disappointing.

Course 4

Me: Roast foie gras with caramelised endive, sweet and sour raisins, honeycomb and orange

The foie was overcooked. Spongy the whole way through, lacking any semi-molten centre. The accompaniments failed to rescue this. Honeycomb nearly did though. A glass of Tokaji was an excellent sticky orangey pairing.

Zoe: Soft Boiled Egg with chanterelles and autumn truffle

The egg was disappointing - the white was a little raw and the yolk failed to shine as we would have wished

Course 5

Me: Fillet of Cod with truffled cauliflower puree and leek hearts

Again, sounded great. Fish well timed on this occasion. But it lacked any flavour, and was slightly grainy in texture. I can't explain it. But with a watery fish, this dish failed to reach the next level.

Zoe: Fillet of Turbot with vacherin creamed potato and white truffle from Alba

This was more successful, and the potato was lovely. The turbot failed to wow us though.

Course 6

Me: Assiette of Veal: Sweetbreads, Braised Cheek with Macaroni, Roast Sweetbread with Truffle, Confit of Liver with Onions, Croquette of Tongue with Chanterelles

This was good, though probably an ill informed swap at this point, as I was pretty full. The kitchen has attracted a lot of flavour from some good pieces of meat. however, a large chunk of cepe tasted of wet flannel. This kind of thing should not happen.

Zoe: Fillet of Aged Ayrshire Beef with bone marrow, wild mushrooms and autumn truffle

This was very tasty. Well flavoured nicely timed meat, with an excellent reduction.

Course 7

Cheese - the board seemed in pretty good nick

Course 8

Me: Passion fruit souffle with lime ice cream

Very good texture, tart clean flavour, light finish to the menu. Very good.

Zoe: Selection of sorbets

She was full, so chickened out of the roasted pear with truffled honey, toasted waffles and beurre noisette ice cream. Reading that now, I wish she'd had it. Sorbets were good though. Green apple especially (I though it was kiwi at first).

So all in all, the food was good, but no course wowed us, or hit the standard we had hoped for. And we had a lot of dishes between us. You can see where the better areas were. Other dishes were slightly off in execution or in conception. Hmm. Disappointing, as everything on the menu sounded right up my street for a luxurious anniversary meal. Most of my meals at the Ledbury were better, and this was unexpected. Perhaps it was an off night, but unless I hear a good report in future, I will wait a little before venturing back.

That said, we were treated extremely well, service was charming and the wine pairings excellent.

For a tasting menu, I certainly didn't think portions were miserly - was even a little too full by the meat course.

[Matthew Grant]

It sounds like portion size have increased if you and Scallops (plural).

[Andy Lynes]

A five star review from AA Gill on Sunday:

"The chef here is Phil Howard, and for my money and, actually, for yours, he’s one of the three or four best working in the country. The Square was always good, but it’s got better. It has had two Michelin stars for some time; the lunch we ate deserved three."

Edited February 5, 2008 by Andy Lynes (log)

[chrisp]

A  five star review from AA Gill on Sunday:

"The chef here is Phil Howard, and for my money and, actually, for yours, he’s one of the three or four best working in the country. The Square was always good, but it’s got better. It has had two Michelin stars for some time; the lunch we ate deserved three."

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It gets five stars from me too. Hard to fault the meal I had on Thursday, and I can't remember a better meal I've had in years.

The things they can do with cauliflower are worth going for alone.

[Andy Lynes]

The restaurant now has a rather flash new website http://www.squarerestaurant.org.

[CalumC]

Pah. £90 for that? Come on.

[Kropotkin]

At a loose end between meetings, I booked into The Square for lunch last week. I wasn’t grabbed by anything on their lunch menu, so turned to the carte. This being my first visit I couldn’t resist the much-hyped crab lasagne which did, I was pleased to note, tally with its reputation. An Assiette of pork, by contrast, was solid and competent, but not as interesting as I’d hope for at this level (ie. it was essentially a simple meat, potatoes and two veg dish that I could have cooked myself on a good day; my fault for ordering it, I guess, but I assume a kitchen of this calibre will turn out something a little more special and unique than I could manage)? All was redeemed by a Brillat-Savarin and orange cheesecake surrounded by rhubarb in various textures. I’m a sucker for anything rhubarby, but the intensity of flavours here was excellent and beyond all recent rhubarb dishes I've enjoyed.

All else was fine and more or less exactly as I expected from this place except for one minor quibble: namely, the absence of any additional pre-appetiser, pre-dessert, or the like at this price-point. Save for a (good) amuse bouche, my £65 three-course lunch was just that - three courses. Unless this is standard practice at The Square, surely they could chuck in a freebie - if only to make us all feel a little more loved and appreciated?

[Andy Lynes]

The last time I went for dinner, which is a while ago now, I got canapes - bread sticks, anchovy pastries and dips - then a pre-starter and then the hallowed pre-dessert of homemade yoghurt with mini-doughnuts (beignets) then chocolates with the coffee.

[chrisp]

At a loose end between meetings, I booked into The Square for lunch last week.  I wasn’t grabbed by anything on their lunch menu, so turned to the carte.  This being my first visit I couldn’t resist the much-hyped crab lasagne which did, I was pleased to note, tally with its reputation.  An Assiette of pork, by contrast, was solid and competent, but not as interesting as I’d hope for at this level (ie. it was essentially a simple meat, potatoes and two veg dish that I could have cooked myself on a good day; my fault for ordering it, I guess, but I assume a kitchen of this calibre will turn out something a little more special and unique than I could manage)?  All was redeemed by a Brillat-Savarin and orange cheesecake surrounded by rhubarb in various textures.  I’m a sucker for anything rhubarby, but the intensity of flavours here was excellent and beyond all recent rhubarb dishes I've enjoyed. 

All else was fine and more or less exactly as I expected from this place except for one minor quibble: namely, the absence of any additional pre-appetiser, pre-dessert, or the like at this price-point.  Save for a (good) amuse bouche, my £65 three-course lunch was just that - three courses.  Unless this is standard practice at The Square, surely they could chuck in a freebie - if only to make us all feel a little more loved and appreciated?

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This is unusual in my experience. Every time I've been for dinner I've had at least 2 or 3 extra courses, and my sister had 1 or 2 extra when she went for lunch the other week, she tells me.

[ameiden]

Had a fairly unpleasant experience here recently. Lasagne and pigeon main course were wonderful but a Bresse chicken breast was RAW in the middle. My wife ate a bit of the cooked bits on the outside before getting to the uncooked center. When we pointed this out to the service, they took the plate away without a comment. No replacement, no apology, no free drink, nothing. Not good enough when they could potentially have poisoned her, I'm afraid.

Also had a bit of an argument with the sommeliere who tried to talk me out of my wine choice, a Silex from Didier Dagueneau. I insisted in getting the bottle I had chosen and it then became clear why she had been reluctant. Not because of food matching or any possible customer-oriented aspect. It was the last bottle she had in this particular vintage, and, unlike many of the other bottles on the list, it was rather good value. (The folks on the other table with their Romanée-Conti will have made up for it. )

[ravelda]

I went for dinner on Monday night and had an excellent meal - albeit with rather slow service (took them 30 minutes just to take our order and get the sommelier over to see us!). I will write a full review tomorrow, but we received canapes, amuse, pre desert and a selection of petit fours with coffee. From talking to Phil in the past I think they only do the full suite in the evening and at lunch just an amuse as many people go for the set lunch and I guess it would be quite time consuming and costly for the kitchen to send out all the lovely extras!

[Andy Lynes]

It was the last bottle she had in this particular vintage, and, unlike many of the other bottles on the list, it was rather good value.

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I know I'm being thick, but what would be the advantage of the restaurant hanging on to the last bottle of a particular vintage rather than making the sale of a £100 wine?

[ameiden]

It was the last bottle she had in this particular vintage, and, unlike many of the other bottles on the list, it was rather good value.

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I know I'm being thick, but what would be the advantage of the restaurant hanging on to the last bottle of a particular vintage rather than making the sale of a £100 wine?

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Keep the bigger selection on the list and steer the customer to a wine that costs the same but that they have cases of.

[Scott]

It was the last bottle she had in this particular vintage, and, unlike many of the other bottles on the list, it was rather good value.

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I know I'm being thick, but what would be the advantage of the restaurant hanging on to the last bottle of a particular vintage rather than making the sale of a £100 wine?

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Keep the bigger selection on the list and steer the customer to a wine that costs the same but that they have cases of.

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unlikely. the silex is a fine drop - except in 2003; but there is no kudos or cachet from having it on the list.

you have so much, you sell out. or not.

if they cared that much about the gravitas it brings - they can get some VERY easily off broking.

I don't know why she was trying to talk you out it, but I am not sure it's that cynical.

ps. if it was the 2003, you deserve all you get for ignoring her

the 2004 is my favourite since 1996.

[ameiden]

It was the 2004 and she gave the impression that it was her favourite too. In the end, we got the bottle and were glad we didn't give in.

Edited April 23, 2008 by ameiden (log)

[sheepish]

Ate here on Friday night. I don't have oodles of experience at this price / star level. Maybe 5 or 6 places. But I was impressed. We had the tasting menu and matching wines.

First impression, the room isn't particularly intimate. Few people talking on mobile phones. Not the most romantic setting.

Glad we chose a glass of Manzanilla as an aperitif, because amuse bouche arrived almost at the same time. Would have been a shame to be stuck with something refined and fizzy. Very light crisp cone of fois gras parfait - for me better than Keller's salmon cones I assume it sort of copies. Good gougeres died with squid ink. Taramasalata with black rice crisps that my wife remarked very favourably on before realising it was taramasalata which she ordinarily wouldn't go near. And something that resembled a straight battered squid ring. But no chewy squid inside. Nothing inside, but a realy deep fish flavour. A very good start.

First course was a salad. My expectations were modest. "Salad of Spring Vegetables with Goat's Curd Crostini, Charolais, Watercress and Herbs". If the jersey potato in there wasn't over salted this would be the best dish I'd ever tasted, but as it was, it's still second. I've read favourable reviews about the vegetarian taster menu here, and I'd be tempted to try it based on this.

The crab lasagne mentioned by others was next. I thought the accompanying shellfish cappuccino was overly salty. Like when I make a mediocre crab bisque and try and boost it with a splash of fish sauce. I'm sometimes accused of oversalting and I've never found high-end food oversalted before. It was good but not up to the amuse and salad.

Next was langoustine with gnocchi and potato and truffle emulsion. This was pared with a 2002 Puligny Montrachet Folatieres Louis Jadot. The best match on the menu, and I'm not usually overly impressed with white burgundy. The age of the wine seemed to lend it a mushroomy element that went really well. The sommellier wasn't the easiest to understand but I liked the way she explained why she felt the wines matched the food with each serving.

Foie gras terrine was ok. I thought a little bland, and the toast a touch stale. I've never been wowed by foie gras. This was reasonable, but that's all.

Roast sea bass was good. The pairing with 2005 Chambolle Musigny Christian Clerget wasn't. Wine was nice. But not with a white fish. I enjoyed drinking this after I'd eaten.

"Herb Crusted Loin of Lamb with Creamed Potato, Grilled Asparagus and Artichokes" was another highlight. The best lamb I've ever eaten. And I eat a lot of lamb, although not spring lamb which given the melt in the mouth quality this had it must have been.

The cheese course was very generous. Typically I've found cheese in high-end places a cost option. And often a not insignificant cost. And then you get 4 little segments of cheese. Here we had a dinner plate of choices between us. Almost too much. And a very generous measure of Grahams 20yo Tawny Port.

Next came a Brillat-Savarin cheesecake with wonderful lime icecream. Not sure how you infuse so much lime into a cream. I'm not a desert person. This was impressive.

Finally a rice pudding souffle flavoured with orange and a ball of chocolate ice cream to melt into it. Not lime icecream good, but pretty decent.

Finished with a coffee. I think 5 quid for a single espresso is steep! Some nice petit fours and chocolate truffles we couldn't manage so they returned them in a little box.

Service was fine. The waiters didn't have accents so strong I couldn't understand what I was eating, not always the case. Anyway, they left a card telling us what we were eating and drinking which I liked.

Overall, food as good as anywhere I've eaten with a couple of superb dishes, and those amuse. Service not as friendly as Gordon Ramsay at Hospital Road, but that was exceptional. When we win the lottery and get a pad in Mayfair I'd be happy to go back.

Edited April 25, 2010 by sheepish (log)