Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yesterday, in a moment of political weakness, due to something mentioned in another thread here I looked to see if BevMo had any Condrieu. Unfortunately they didn't, but they did have a French wine labeled "Viognier". I found that to be both humorous and a sales ploy playing on the varietal name immitating the Americans.

It did prompt me to think more about how our wines over here (in California and the states in general)are labeled primarily with Varietal names along with the region they are from as opposed to French wines that we recognize by the producer/Chateau along with their point of origin.

The biggest problem as to name recognition I think is that over here wineries produce such a vast number of different wines. Taking a look at a moderate sized winery and a smaller one over here, I looked at Rosenblum for what I'd consider to be a moderate sized one and in Zinfandels alone from different locales and vineyards there were no less than 14 different Zins! That isn't taking into consideration any of their other reds or whites or dessert wines. For a small winery I looked at Dover Canyon and they list 8 different wines. On the high end French side I looked at Chateau Lafite Rothschild and Chateau Cheval Blanc. Both of these wineries are known for a single wine, yet both produce one lower tiered wine as well, Carruades de Lafite & Petit Cheval. Lafite also produces a generic Pauiillac as well.

While California wines are becoming more precisely defined through the growing number of recognized appelations and the policy of many high end producers to use vineyard designates as well there are not many wineries who have a known or recognized signature wine. The most easily recognized one over here would be Opus One. They are the only one I can think of that clearly stands out. When one thinks about Ridge Vineyards the thought is typically about Zinfandels yet their signature wine Monte Bello is primarily a Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux styled blend. Those who are more wine savvy will recognize this signature wine but those not knowledgable would not know the difference between this Ridge wine and other Ridge wines.

The general public that drinks very little wine probably recognizes BV (Beaulieu Vineyards) wines. Yet what is the perception of BV wine nowadays? Top end producer or more of a mass producer? I think of them as a mass producer now, yet mention Georges de Latour and quality along with recognition comes to mind. In this regard BV has kept their signature wine.

I'd go so far as to say I think each winery should have a signature wine that goes by a name as opposed to a varietal even if the percentage is high enough to label it by its varietal name. While California has risen to at least a parity at the top of the wine world, in terms of individual recognition and a signature or making a strong statment they seem to be light years behind.

Charles a food and wine addict - "Just as magic can be black or white, so can addictions be good, bad or neither. As long as a habit enslaves it makes the grade, it need not be sinful as well." - Victor Mollo

Posted

Unfortunately, CC, your comments are so astute that I doubt you'll get much argument from anyone! From an international marketing perspective, it makes sense for a producer to have a signature wine. But there is also the reality that most French producers chafe under their restrictive laws and wish they had the freedom other producers do. And a signature can be a style--not just a single product.

When we started Dover Canyon we chose a 'signature' wine, based on our experience working at larger wineries and the advice of our winery-owning friends. Huh. Our annual 'Menage' is a Bordeaux blend, and it's always top-notch. But what do people go nuts for at our winery? The same wines that Dan enjoys producing--small production, vineyard-designate syrahs and zinfandels. And for us, there's artistic excitement is choosing to designate something as a vineyard-select, or in doing a special blend. It's fun! It gives us a feeling of triumph to celebrate some special and distinctive fruit. And trust me, since we both gave up decent hours, paid trips to wine festivals across the US, well-appointed offices and respect, we oughta be having fun! As Kent Rosenblum described himself, we are now "debt qualified." And loving it. :laugh:

_____________________

Mary Baker

Solid Communications

Find me on Facebook

×
×
  • Create New...