A mead brewing project

[cdh]

The mead thread makes it sound as though there is both interest and experience in mead brewing to be found here on eGullet. Why don't we try to get together a communal meadmaking project sort of like the Chef's Beer thread from last winter?

Mead is a lot easier to make than beer, though takes a long time to be ready to consume. I've brewed lots of beer, but have not even tried mead. I'm curious, and I know that I can get honey at reasonable prices around me. My inexperience, however leads me to want to try a sampler batch of a number of different styles, rather than a five gallon vat of one thing I might not even like.

Anybody else up for taking part in this sort of experiment? The Chef's Beer thread worked out pretty well, I think, despite the fact that we never got around to swapping tastes of each others' brews.

Edited August 12, 2004 by cdh (log)

[Mayhaw Man]

I'm in (with a local partner who I will henceforth refer to as "He Who Drinks Alot").

How about a Sept. 1 Start date? That gives us time to gather info and materials and still leaves plenty of time to let the honey and yeast work their subtle magic before the holidays.

Incidentally, Mead lends itself to packaging very well, as it is a more or less still product, so packing a few bottle off to our fellow brewers should be fairly easy.

If we can get a few participants (this is actually a project that would be interesting for first timers, as most of the materials are easily attainable wherever you are) we can have some kind of online tasting -although that might take more organization than ANY of us are capable of.

Let's see how it plays out. Any ideas? Recipes?

[cdh]

My idea is inspired by Okbrewer's mention in the other thread about making a base batch with a primary fermentation, and then adding the distinctive flavor goodies to the secondary fermentation.

Since I've only got one 5 gallon fermentation vessel (aka a big food grade bucket), making a big base batch and then portioning it out into 1 gallon jugs for the long slow secondary ferment strikes me as the most reasonable use of my resources. Doing it like this also gives the opportunity to throw different spicings and fruits and whatever else into the secondary fermentors.

All that needs doing is finding a few gallon jugs and stoppers that will seal up the gallon jugs and accept an airlock, which I'm sure my local homebrew shop can do for me. I'd imagine I have a few months to get all of that together while the primary fermentation is happening.

Since the base brewing ingredient list is just honey, water, yeast and yeast nutrients, the big questions to decide are: what honey, how much of it per gallon, and what yeast?

Trader Joe's has "Desert Mesquite" honey for a pretty cheap price, and it is a neutral flavored honey, so would work well as a base for subsequent flavoring, no?

I know nothing about mead yeasts, however. Is it standard to use sulfites to kill off the yeast mid-ferment to retain sweetness, or do you choose a yeast that can only tolerate so much alcohol and let the yeast go until it kills itself off? Are yeast flavors a big part of mead flavor, like in belgian beers, or is a neutral yeast the standard?

Edited August 12, 2004 by cdh (log)

[Okbrewer]

I need to make some mead, so count me in! CDH, I do what you suggest. I make a 5-6 gallon base mead and then portion it out to 3 smaller batches when I go to secondary. That way I can experiment, use different flavors, fruits, spices, etc. In fact, my next batch I was wanting to use some of the ever abundant mint I have growing in my back yard. But I don't want probably more than 2 gallons of mint mead. I have several 3 gallon carboys that I use to split up a batch. They work great because you get a good volume of liquid plus a good amount of head space. One gallon jugs can also be used to split the batch into smaller portions.

Should we decide on a recipe? We can keep it real simple and each use the exact same recipe or, vary the yeast used in the base batch, or ... however you want to do it! That's what is so fun about making mead, you can experiment!

One thing about buying honey, make sure what you buy is pure honey and doesn't have preservatives as some grocery store bought honey has. Find a local supply by looking up HONEY or Beekeeping in the phone book. Most places probably just recently harvested their honey, so it should be a good time to buy. A gallon of honey is about 12 pounds, which is about right for a 3-4 gallon batch. It is usually cheaper when purchased in bulk than in smaller containers too.

[cdh]

Bob-

Can you talk some more about the varietal meads? My local homebrew store has a wide selection of honeys... alfalfa, buckwheat, orange blossom, tupelo, blueberry, and others I can't recall. It sounds like making a base batch and then spiking it with a few pounds of a varietal at the secondary ferment would get the varietal message acrosss loud and clear. Any favorite varietals?

[Mayhaw Man]

I think that it would be very interesting to all make the same recipe, exactly (particularly yeast type/types) and for all of us to use different types of honey. Keeping the water the same would be easy enough, as all of us can get some of the same stuff wherever we live. (might I reccomend Abita or Kentwood )

As far as yeast goes, I could put in an order at Wyeast and we could get Geoff to ship the stuff all at the same time-exact same strain/same pitching/same cell counts, etc. I think that it would be interesting to see how much difference the honey makes (I would assume alot).

[Okbrewer]

Chris, Think of varietal honeys as single floral source honey. Most varietals have distinct flavors and aromas of the floral source or fruit, or at least very unique flavor/aroma profiles. (With that said, orange blossom is considered a varietal but any citrus honey can be marketed as orange blossom.)

Around here I get mostly what is called clover honey or wild flower honey, they are not single source but blends from many, sometimes unknown, sources. This clover honey is usually light in color, flavor and aroma. Exactly why I like to use it for a base mead. Varietals with strong flavors, like buckwheat, mesquite and tupelo, can be added later in the process to allow some of their characteristics to show. You can obviously use these varietals right from the start as you only source of honey for the mead, but they are usually more expensive than clover honey.

Especially for someone just learning to make mead, I suggest going the cheaper route! You can still make good mead, but it doesn't leave you broke!

I have used orange blossom, blackberry and watermelon honey, all claimed to be single source, but only the watermelon seemed to have some flavor of the fruit. I like to make melomels and metheglins, so I use mostly clover honey. It gives me the honey component I want but also is light enough to allow the fruit or spices to be evident.

Brooks, if you want to get with Wyeast to supply a particular yeast for us to use, how about Wyeast 3783 Rudisheimer. Since it sounds like we might shoot for a traditional mead for this experiment, this yeast would be perfect.

It would be neat see what different honey types/sources we all have based on our varied locales.

[Mayhaw Man]

Brooks, if you want to get with Wyeast to supply a particular yeast for us to use, how about Wyeast 3783 Rudisheimer. Since it sounds like we might shoot for a traditional mead for this experiment, this yeast would be perfect.

Done. We will need to give them two weeks notice. I will set it up when it is time.

Did you know that all Wyeasts are cultured using Full Sail Wort? Been that way since day one I think.

[Okbrewer]

I didn't know that about Full Sail wort and Wyeast! Ya learn something new everyday! Speaking of learning something new...

For those who might want to join in on this mead experiment, I highly recommend reading up on the process before getting started. No better place to start than with Ken Schramm's book The Compleat Meadmaker. I do know Ken but I have no financial interest in his book sales. But it is a good, informative book for new and advanced mead makers. It can be found at amazon.com or at the American Homebrewers Association (AHA) website, www.beertown.org. It's about $20.

Once everyone gets some common understanding of the steps, we can decide which process we want to take. Ken is a strong proponent of the no heat/no boil method. If you aren't already a homebrewer with all the toys, er, tools of the hobby, such as a pot big enough to heat 3-4 gallons of water, then the no heat/no boil method might be the easiest and cheaper route since you will only have to buy fermentation vessels of some sort.

How much interest is there in this project beyond Chris, Brooks and me!?

[ivan]

How much interest is there in this project beyond Chris, Brooks and me!?

In the immortal words of the inimitable Tommy:

I'm in.

[cdh]

Keeping the water the same would be easy enough, as all of us can get some of the same stuff wherever we live. (might I reccomend Abita or Kentwood )

Dunno about this-- neither of your brands are familiar to me up here in Pennsylvania... I'm really not sure who the locally available spring waters are, but I don't think these ones are.

[Mayhaw Man]

Keeping the water the same would be easy enough, as all of us can get some of the same stuff wherever we live. (might I reccomend Abita or Kentwood   )

Dunno about this-- neither of your brands are familiar to me up here in Pennsylvania... I'm really not sure who the locally available spring waters are, but I don't think these ones are.

It was a joke. I live in Abita. I could get the stuff out of the tap.

[Okbrewer]

What a coincidence! This note from Ken Schramm was just posted on the latest AHA TechTalk:

From: Ken Schramm [mailto:schramk@resa.net]

Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 11:12 AM

Subject: No Heat Meadmaking

I was looking back through some previous Tech Talks, and I'd like to reiterate something about no-heat mead making. It is very important that you get all of the honey into solution when preparing the must. That means a prolonged period of vigorous stirring in a vessel suited to the task. Honey is completely soluble in water, and there should be no reason for stratification other than incompletely dissolving the honey. On the other hand, honey is extremely dense, with an OG above 1.400. It's going to take some work.

I mix my musts in a seven gallon plastic fermenter, whether they are going to be fermented in plastic or glass. It takes me a minimum of about 10 minutes to get 15-18 lbs of honey to mix thoroughly with the 3.5-4 gallons of H2O I use. I buy my honey from a beekeeper in 5 gallon containers, frequently completely crystallized. It generally takes a couple of "turns," meaning that globs of the honey which do not immediately dissolve will fall to the bottom of the fermenter, and need to be worked on repeatedly to get into solution.

Most of the time I use a large, commercial grade, stainless steel spoon. The other tools of the trade: a stainless steel ladle, a large, commercial grade spatula, a two quart Pyrex measuring cup/bowl, and serious elbow grease.

I have also used my hand-held Pillsbury electric mixer with very satisfactory results. It mixes and aerates well, and the beaters are easy to sanitize. It is especially helpful when working with crystallized honey. I often start with the honey and a portion of the liquid until I get a thick but fully dissolved solution, and then add the rest of the water. A large funnel is handy to transfer the must into a carboy.

I don't ever try to mix the honey and the water in a carboy. I don't think there is any amount of "sloshing" that can substitute for agitation with a stirring implement.

Happy meadmaking,

Ken

[Truffle]

Okbrewer, I'm counting on you. How do you enjoy mead? Hot or cold or both?

[Okbrewer]

I've never had it warm, but I know of others who like to make a kind of warm wassail-like mead drink for the holidays. I actually prefer it at what would be regarded as 'cellar temperature' or just slightly chilled.

[Truffle]

Like a hot toddy, then?

Thnks for the notes.

[cdh]

Well... are we just 3? And are we still shooting for Sept 1?

Hit my local Trader Joe's and found found their mesquite honey in 3lb cans for $6... which makes me lean toward using it. Also have some truly local honey from back when my parents kept bees... pitch black stuff, but interestingly flavored, so a bit might go into the batch.

[chromedome]

I have some interest, but won't have the opportunity to get the makin's by the Sept 1 start date. Of course, this means that I'll have the opportunity to profit by your collective experience...

[Carolyn Tillie]

I was travelling when this thread got started and just checked in -- so count me in!

I am a complete and total novice so I would appreciate some guidance on what I should read to get started. I've never made an alcholic beverage in my life but I work with *real* winemakers who I'm sure will lend a hand.

[Okbrewer]

Another timely post from the AHA TechTalk:

From: Julia Herz [mailto:julia@honeywine.com]

Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 11:30 AM

Subject: International Mead Festival Tickets Now Available

We are proud to announce the November 5 and 6 International Mead

Festival-Honeywines of the World Tickets Now On Sale! Check out

www.meadfest.com to order your tickets and for all festival details. Plan to attend

the world’s largest commercial mead competition and festival. This

third annual historic event will be held in Boulder, Colorado. Last year we

had over 60 commercial meads to taste from 7 different countries.

Cheers!

Julia Herz

-Honeywine.com

-Redstone Meadery

-International Mead Festival

[Okbrewer]

Well, if we are gonna do this thing I guess we better get started! First, here is the gear you might need:

Equipment:

Most homebrewers have the necessary equipment to make mead. For those who will need to buy the equipment, here is a list of what you might need. Homebrew supply shops sell these items, but check around the house first -- you probably already have some of this stuff.

Brewkettle (if you plan to heat the water and/or must)

Use an enamel-coated or stainless-steel pot that holds at least 3 gallons

Primary Fermenter

A food-grade container, usually a white plastic bucket with a lid that holds at least 6 gallons will do.

Secondary Fermenter

This can be another plastic bucket or, better still, a glass carboy. Depending on the size batch you plan to make, this carboy can be 3, 5, or 6.5 gallon capacity.

Siphon Hose

This is usually clear, food-grade plastic tubing. You will need about 6 feet. This is for transferring your beer or must from one container to another.

Racking Cane

This is a stiff piece of plastic tubing about 2 feet long, often with a curve at one end. It connects to your siphon hose and is used when transferring your beer or must from one container to another. It makes siphoning easy and efficient.

Large Funnel

If you don’t want to fuss with siphoning the liquid from the primary to secondary fermenters you can simply pour using this funnel.

Long-Handled Spoon

This can be plastic or stainless steel, or even wood I suppose. Just make sure it is sturdy. You probably already have one that will work. It's for stirring, of course.

Fermentation Lock

It's also called an airlock and it keeps your beer or must from being exposed to outside air while letting carbon dioxide escape from your fermenter. It should fit in a hole in the lid of your primary fermenter (or in the opening of the carboy).

Bottling Bucket (you won’t need to bottle your mead for almost a year, so you won’t need these bottling related items immediately.)

This should hold at least 5 gallons. It can be the same type of container as your primary fermenter.

Bottles

These should be made of brown glass. Don't use the twist-off variety. You'll need about 50 12-ounce bottles or the same volume in whatever size bottles you use.

Bottle Capper *

Numerous styles of this device are available, any one will work for capping your bottles of homebrew.

Bottle Caps

These must be new. You'll need about 50.

Bottle Filler

This is a clever device that will really speed up your bottling process.

*If you plan to bottle your mead in wine bottles with corks, then you will need a corker and corks instead of the capper and caps.

I'll put together a basic recipe and post for your approval.

Edited August 25, 2004 by Okbrewer (log)

[Carolyn Tillie]

Thanks for the list, Bob. This is what I needed as a first-timer. You will have to forgive me though, I will probably continue to refer to my Mead as a Honey Wine instead of a beer... I'll be corking my bottles.

Can't wait for the recipe!

[Okbrewer]

Mead IS honey wine! The references to beer in my list were just because the same equipment can be used for making beer, wine or mead. So let's just agree to call our honey wine - MEAD! We will be making MEAD!

[Carolyn Tillie]

Mead IS honey wine! The references to beer in my list were just because the same equipment can be used for making beer, wine or mead. So let's just agree to call our honey wine - MEAD! We will be making MEAD!

[Okbrewer]

I am going to suggest a basic, no heat, mead recipe consisting of just honey, water and yeast. Additives such as yeast nutrient or energizer, and acid blend are optional. The basic recipe can be adjusted or modified in the secondary fermenter to include fruit or spices or more honey as you decide.

The honey we use will vary since we will all probably use whatever honey variety is available to us locally. Let’s try to keep the amount of honey in the range of 3-5 pounds per gallon, regardless of variety. That is still a rather wide range but it will allow us to play with or individualize the basic recipe. Also, final volume may vary depending on the size of fermenter you have available. One, three or five gallon batches are possible.

This recipe is for a 5 gallon batch:

15 - 20 lbs Honey

4 Gallons Water

2 tsp yeast nutrient or Diammonium Phosphate or Wyeast Nutrient, 1 tsp yeast energizer, 4 tsp acid blend (all optional)

Wyeast 3783 (Rudisheimer) (Brooks will be getting this for us?)

Pour the honey into the plastic fermenter along with about 2 gallons of water. Stir until the honey is well dissolved in the water. Add the remaining water and stir.

The yeast nutrient, yeast energizer and acid blend, if used, can now be added.

Add the yeast and stir lightly. Ferment until the gravity reaches approximately 1.020. Then, rack to secondary fermenter for an additonal 1-3 months (at least!).

Top up (with water and/or more honey) to desired volume and bulk age. When the mead is clear and stable, it may be bottled.