Winteringham Fields

[Bapi]

You are a jamy bugger aren't you mate ? How in hell did you get away with that ( and on your own especially? )

So is Robert Thompson ostensibly doing the majority of the cooking and letting Germaine Schwab have a well earned rest - or is the latter still very much hands on?

[Gary Marshall]

You are a jamy bugger aren't you mate ? How in hell did you get away with that ( and on your own especially? )

So is Robert Thompson ostensibly doing the majority of the cooking and letting Germaine Schwab have a well earned rest - or is the latter still very much hands on?

i wear the trousers in my house

i'd been meaning to go, and had the time to do it so it wasn't a hard decision!.

Germain is still very much there, he did his usual tour of the room after service. I assume he is overseeing with mr thompson assisting.

gary

[patrick]

Gary,

Yes, you are quite correct, Germain is still overseeing with Robert very much assisting in all areas.

After returning from my two month stint in France, my gf and I went for lunch today at Winteringham..again a superb meal and service.

Briefly, we ate as follows....

Rillettes of duck and pistachio with orange jelly

~

Veloute of palm heart with duck confit and cajun spices

and

Fig tart with goats cheese ice cream and rocket

~

Coq au Vin, Pommes Mousseline

and

Rib eye of aged beef, purple potato gnocchi, bone marrow tempura, mushroom minestrone

~

Cheese

~

Lemon curd malt bread and butter pudding

and

Chocolate and honeycomb marquise

Chassagne Montrachet 1999

tbc, but i believe they have just been voted 4th equal best restaurant in the world alongside El Bulli. Marc Veyrat was top! RHR was second

[Scott]

tbc, but i believe they have just been voted 4th equal best restaurant in the world alongside El Bulli. Marc Veyrat was top! RHR was second

patrick,

not wanting to change topic, as I would love to try this place and intend to sometime soon.

but any poll that ranks GR @ RHR as the 2nd best restaurant in the world, obviously has voters who smoke too much leafy garnish.

[Gary Marshall]

hi patrick

that menu sounds very good, i know the set lunch is generally a simpler affair than dinner but i have found that there's always one stunner at least hidden away amongst the 3 choices, the skill is finding it!

i always like it when wf do dishes such as coq au vin, i know many will say that rustic dishes have no place in a 2* but i like to see such classics refined beyond the sort of thing i can make in my kitchen.

i remember jay not thinking a laska was an appropriate dish for a 2* but often i like the idea that you can almost see in the menu someone has had a thai/indian or whatever and brought the inspiration back to the 2* environment.

need to save up for an evening assault!

by the way, where were you in france? any recs?

cheers

gary

[patrick]

Gary

I was working in St Jean Cap Ferrat. There is a more detailed account of my travels on the France board under Cap Ferrat and Beaulieu, but basically i can recommend the following...

Gastronomique

Chevre d'Or ( Eze Village) between Nice and Monaco

Good but slightly less serious

Le Provencal (St Jean Cap Ferrat)

Mere Germaine ( Villefranche-sur-mer)

Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat

Patrick

[Gary Marshall]

is there an idiot emoticon?

sorry patrick i've read the thread but didn't realise it was you.

gary

[tony h]

is there an idiot emoticon?

:gary:

[Andy Lynes]

is there an idiot emoticon?

:gary:

I'll see if I can get it added to the database, I'm sure it will come in handy in the future.

[Gary Marshall]

is there an idiot emoticon?

:gary:

I'll see if I can get it added to the database, I'm sure it will come in handy in the future.

it can go under the picture in the dictionary

gary

[howardlong]

Chevre d'Or ( Eze Village) between Nice and Monaco

Hi Patrick

I stayed at Château de La Chèvre d’Or last year.

It is stunning for views, and its setting in the medieval village of Eze on the cliff top is unique. But when it came to eating, I found that there was a premium for being there - especially on the booze. For example, my aperitif of 'house' champagne turned out to be Dom Perignon.

Service, although attentive, seemed overpowering at times. Worse was that despite being a couple of tables away from the kitchen it was still rather too close: large numbers of waiting staff would congregate around the area which I found a little off putting. Still, it was a memorable evening.

I much prefer La Réserve de Beaulieu when it comes to the food itself. I can confidently say that on my last visit I had the best bouillabaisse I have ever had. The sommelier there was a lot of fun and you could tell that he was really enjoying his job.

BTW, Thanks for your other suggestions.

Cheers, Howard

[patrick]

Howard,

You are quite correct about the service and numbers of waiting staff! On my visit, thay made several mistakes at our table and there was a marked difference between the standards of the senior staff and the more junior staff. IMO, the service definetly holds the place back.

Also, i agree about the premiums on the wines. We were offered an "aperitif" of Taittinger Rose 1996 which turned out to be 50 euros a glass. There again, i guess to their "regular" clientele its a drop in the ocean!

La Reserve is on my list for next time!

Patrick

[Andy Lynes]

Can I ask that any further discussion of French restaurants takes place in the france forum. Thanks.

[dkps_2000]

It seems an awful long time since anyone has posted re: Winteringham Fields so here goes......

It's the day after my trip to Winteringham Fields and it was a fabulous meal with only one or two slight criticisms - I'm going to very quickly review the meal as I won't claim to be a food expert - I just enjoy food!

After some discussions with my Dad we elected to go for the Menu Surprise - my Dad was determined to have the standard A La Carte but as it was my Birthday meal I won out in the end and it proved to be a good decision to be stubborn. The evening started sat outside in the enclosed gardens with 2 Grolsch as a nice refreshing drink. Soon after we were brought the menus and our first amuse bouche of Tomato essence with Gazpacho and beetroot powder - this was one of the highlights of the meal for me, I could have just eaten it at all night. Great texture and flavour. At the same time we had Caviar and Smoked Salmon Bilinis, it just fitted in with being outside in the early evening sunshine

After this we were taken into the restaurant - a very nice room with very comfy seats! Drins wise for the meal my Dad went with the Sommellier Selection which produced some very nice wines - I can't remember the exact details of them though I'm afraid. As I pulled the short straw I had Hildon with my meal but to be honest I prefer drinking water when I go to nice restaurants

The next pre meal taster was brought out - Cannelloni of Mayan Gold Potato wrapped in Smoked Haddock, for me nothing can go wrong where Smoked Haddock is involved!

After this the bread waiter brought an array of breads with which we both had to try the Salmon and Dill breads and Black Pudding and Apple, totally different to what I was expecting from then - for me flavoured breads like this were to nibble on in between courses and tasty they were!

Now onto the actual menu

Rocket Panacotta, carpaccio of beetroot with an orange dressing - this was for me one of the highlights, it's not something I would dream of ordering if I saw on a menu but my god it was good! The sum was greater than the parts, think that's the correct saying

The next course was supposed to be Quail with Watecress coulis and wild mushroom risotto but when asked at the start if there was anything you are allergic to / dislike I mentioned mushrooms so instead of this we had rabbit cooked 2 ways (1 was diced and seasoned, the other was sliced rabbit fillet / breast - not sure of the right terminology) and this was served with a tagliatelle with almonds and black olives. One of the reasons why my Dad was against the surprise menu was that he was hoping he wouldn't get rabbit but even he said it was good! The tagliatelle and sauce was melt in the mouth, I preferred the normal rabbit to the other though

Tuna Rondelle was the next course - tuna steak wrapped in foie gras and parma ham. Very nice, smooth and rich! It was served with mixed leaves and a dressing which has slipped my mind but added to the flavour of the rondelle rather than detract from it

Lemon Sole with lobster mouse and broccoli puree was next up, this was very good, very tasty and for want of a better word the 'most simple' dish on the menu and possibly the only one I reckon I could just about create at home! It was the first time I'd had Lemon Sole in a good couple of years so was a nice reminder of a forgotten fish in my household!

Palate refresher time - Iced Mango and Apple with coriander shoots. This did what it said on the in, very refreshing - not totally sure what the coriander added though as I couldn't make out the corinader flavour, it was predominantly apple

Main Course as New Season Lamb three ways, galette of vegetables. The three ways were Lamb Kofte, Lamb Rump and a cube of flaked Lamb which I believe had been fried in breadcrumbs. The only slight criticism I have with this is that I feel the Kofte was just a little overpoweringly seasoned. The rump of lamb was incredibly tender and the flaked lamb was just a totally different taste sensation to the other 2.

Next up was the famous cheese trolley which was fantastic. There must have been at least 40 cheeses on there of which I sampled 4 - a Camembert, Double Gloucester, a very heavily smoked one which the fromager brought out from the kitchen when I asked if he had any smoked cheese and when there was none on the cheese trolley I decided to have a Goats Cheese with a lemon tang to it which for me was one of the best cheeses I've had in a long long while! When the smoked cheese arrived it was unexpected but very much appreciated!

Pre Dessert time came another highlight for me - Passion Fruit Souffle with a cone of vanilla ice cream dropped in at the table, alongside a peach granite with peach schnapps foam and a selection of friandises which contained amongst many things the most heavenly miniature lemon tart - I'd have happily finished the meal on the souffle and the lemon tart - 2 fantastic mini desserts!

But as it was we had the final course - a lightly spiced ginger Baba with Clementine soup and white chocolate ice cream. This was a very nice finish to the meal as it was light - I was dreading them bringing out a really heavy dessert as I was rather full by this stage. The baba had a very subtle ginger flavour but combined with the white chocolate ice cream was lovely!

After this we retired to one of the quaint lil lounges for coffee and petit fours - these were lovely but unfortunately we just couldn't finish them all as the previous 11 courses had finished us off! Whilst having coffee Robert Thompson came out to say hello and have a quick chat, a thoroughly nice chap and it's hard to believe he is only 23! When I mentioned I was struggling to remember everything that I'd had he went away and brought back a printed menu Surprise with it signed by himself which was a very nice touch!

All that remained was for us to make the 45 minute drive home across the Humber Bridge - we will definitely be returning in the next few months. If only I didn't live over in Manchester these days - oh for something as good as this in Manchester!

Other random comments - all the staff were very friendly and helpful. The Sommelier was very impressive and seemed genuinely happy when we complimented him on the wines he had chosen to go with the menu. From my experience of starred restaurants (albeit a little limited) this was far above The Star at Harome and The Yorke Arms so my conclusion is that they've been very unlucky to lose their second star and will hopefully get it back next year! This point is backed up by The Good Food Guide who have given it 9/10 in the 2006 book which was produced after the Schwabs had left!

RHR is going to have go some on the 26th May to beat this in my opinion. The setting for Winteringham Fields is of course going to be far superior than RHR from what I've heard - the fact we were sat in a secluded gardens in evening sunshine with bilinis just got the night off to the perfect start!

Full Menu

Caviar and Smoked Salmon Bilinis

Tomato essence with Gazpacho and beetroot powder

Cannelloni of Mayan Gold Potato wrapped in Smoked Haddock

* Rocket Panacotta, carpaccio of beetroot with an orange dressing

* Quail with Watecress coulis and wild mushroom risotto / Rabbit cooked 2 ways, tagliatelle with almonds and black olives

* Tuna Rondelle

* Lemon Sole with lobster mouse and broccoli puree

* Iced Mango and Apple with coriander shoots

* New Season Lamb three ways, galette of vegetables

* Cheese Trolley

Passion Fruit Souffle

Peach granite with peach schnapps foam

Selection of friandises

* Lightly spiced ginger Baba with Clementine soup and white chocolate ice cream

Those courses above which are starred formed part of the 'official meal'

[Gary Marshall]

glad to hear it's still on top form.

must get over there sometime soon.

cheers

gary

[Kropotkin]

Serendipitously, schedules coincided to allow a long-planned lunch at Winteringham Fields yesterday. The last time we visited was in early January, with the 2 stars and five rosettes still in place. It has since lost one of each so I was interested to see if any differences were noticeable in this renowned place south of the Humber. Over the pre-lunch drink I found the new GFG 2007 in their lounge. This still rates the cooking at 9/10 (joint top in the UK), and I could see no discernable decline. Indeed, I thought yesterday’s meal improved on the last.

The welcome was as friendly as ever and the scattering of lunchtime diners of an October weekday made for a very pleasant, peaceful environment. We enjoyed drinks and an amuse-bouche of tomato gazpacho in an empty conservatory before being led to our table. A pre-appetiser of roast squab, carrot and potato appeared and worked very nicely. Two of the party ordered a main appetiser of butternut squash and chestnut cream soup with a foie gras ravioli. The soup was just rich and creamy enough with gorgeous flavours, while the ravioli was a particular treat. Meanwhile, I had a highly tender and tasty carpaccio of pork belly speckled by squid rings (some fried) and resting upon a mushroom polenta. Despite some scepticism about the squid when ordering, this was highly impressive dish that reminded me forcefully what a serious restaurant this is. The range of excellent breads (c. 7/8 choices, and four butters) and the attentive staff (outnumbering the guests, it seemed) also combined to act as a timely aide-memoire.

Two of my party ordered the Osso Bucco of dark, rich pork with pureed potatoes, carrot and beetroot salad for mains. They were both very pleased with it. I had a shoulder of lamb with pommes boulangères and a fetuccine of vegetables (mainly carrots and greens). The lamb was cooked perfectly and was well-complemented – although in truth, the potato and veg didn’t quite offer the extra wow factor of my appetiser. Both dishes were complemented nicely by a Chilean Pinot Noir selected from what I think is a revamped list. I’m sure some traditionalists would scoff, but I liked the neat inclusion of maps and other materials about wine-producing regions in the folder (which I think is a new departure at WF?). Regardless, to my mind this makes for a more interesting read and allows a better informed and more inclusive discussion of choices amongst any group of diners.

The last time we visited it was the dessert that lacked the same punch as the rest of the menu - but yesterday that had improved. I enjoyed a hugely succulent lemon bread and butter pudding with vanilla ice-cream; my partner tried the chocolate fondant with mousse that offered a texture that was, she repeated, perfect. Both were excellent and we retired, stuffed and very satisfied, to one of the cosy small lounges for coffee and first-rate petits fours.

This is our local place for haute-cuisine, but as we drove back to work I realised that over the year -and in the light of its fluctuating ratings- I’d started to forget just what a serious endeavour this place is, albeit one (from our direction) in an incongruous location at the end of a narrow, muddy country road. For me though, this isolated spot and the apparently wilful decision not to chase a larger urban market and its ready money just adds to the allure. We’re planning another return, but much more promptly than the last. I’ll be interested to see if the inspectors have revised their opinions as well.

[Gary Marshall]

i do get the feeling that winteringham are stuck between a rock and a hard place with regards to ratings.

given the reputation and esteem that the schwabs had in the industry it would be harsh not to downgrade them out of respect now they are not there, but given how long robbie thompson has worked with germain it is unlikely that the food would take a serious nose dive in quality, unless a strategic decision was taken to move WF into a more casual market.

the wine list has always had almost hand drawn maps of the wine regions in it which does add to the character!

what are the lunch options is it still just the set lunch or is there ALC or Tasting options?

cheers

gary

[Kropotkin]

The lunch options yesterday were the set lunch, ALC and their 'specials'; the full tasting menu was only available in the evening.

I think you're right about the ratings dilemma, Gary, hence my final point about whether the inspectors will upgrade, and how long this might take. But given this impasse, I was also very impressed that WF are sticking with their model of top-quality food, high-level service, and high prices (rather than downgrading). And all this despite their isolation from any sizeable, immediate market for business lunches etc.

I must have forgotten about the maps (ironically, as I'm a professional geographer - another reason why I like them). I do recall my partner seizing the wine list on the last visit - with dire consequences for the bill!

[Jon Tseng]

given the reputation and esteem that the schwabs had in the industry it would be harsh not to downgrade them out of respect now they are not there, but given how long robbie thompson has worked  with germain it is unlikely that the food would take a serious nose dive in quality, unless a strategic decision was taken to move WF into a more casual market.

←

Note however Gavroche got downgraded when Roux pere stepped back, but Waterside did not.

And as we know Mich are never consistent - d'you reckon anthonys will finally get their star this year?

l8tr

J

[Gary Marshall]

And as we know Mich are never consistent - d'you reckon anthonys will finally get their star this year? 

←

who knows, everything i've eaten there has been at least 1 star standard from day one, so it is certainly deserved imho.

[Jon Tseng]

who knows, everything i've eaten there has been at least 1 star standard from day one, so it is certainly deserved imho.

←

and whats the odds ur gaff gets a gastropub star in the next couple of years... ?

d'you reckon the boys from bibendum read eG?

[Gary Marshall]

and whats the odds ur gaff gets a gastropub star in the next couple of years... ?

d'you reckon the boys from bibendum read eG?

←

well it took the star at harome about 8 years so i'm not holding my breath, it would be certainly be an achievement, though happy and returning customers is our main goal!!

i don't know if they read it, but i wouldn't be suprised if they did, don't forget Derek Bulmer did a Q&A the other year.

[Kropotkin]

We lunched at Winteringham Fields at the weekend – a first visit since late October just before Robert Thompson left and Pierre Gay took over the kitchen. The new chef was cooking a Christmas menu that, save for a few alterations, was left to him by Thompson. It would be unfair to judge him too rigorously on this, therefore - and on this showing the food was well cooked, although not perhaps with the same precision as the previous regime offered. The FoH was also a little slacker than normal, although this was a busy service (and we were late!).

However, the Winteringham experience had changed in other respects as the place has doubled in size with the opening of a large extension. Their website and PR have never been particularly prompt and while we had heard rumours of expansion, the scale of the changes only became clear when we were directed into a spacious new lounge that adjoins a rear terrace and a sizeable new dining room. This new light and airy space –with its liberty-styled, domed glass sky-light, cream walls and occasional murals upon a (slightly bewildering) Alice in Wonderland theme- contrasts markedly with the existing, cosy dining room. Further, it also boasts a large picture window onto the kitchens. On a chilly December day, the marble floor and a lack of softer furnishings did make the room colder than we’d prefer, while the lounge next door also needed better heating. There’s plenty of space, though, and watching the kitchen at work was entertaining. Yet this leaves a restaurant with two distinctive halves – the longer-established, intimate, sinuous dining room seating c. 30, and this new, spacious room for another 30.

For all the talk of weddings, corporate events and the like, I’m hoping that this means onwards and upwards – and presumably the business model foresees them augmenting their loyal clientele with more visitors and a greater tranche of the local population (to whom the owner was seen appealing on regional TV recently). But if so, will they freeze their stiff prices (which are still creeping upwards) to get more locals in? And will they be able to maintain standards with more covers (or are they settling for a less-elite, more generalised 1-star future)? We shall wait and see with interest...

[Gary Marshall]

interesting, i actually had a table booked last week for lunch but cancelled it thinking it might be a bit too much after harry's place the night before. I didn't fancy the xmas lunch menu and alc is usually a re-mortgage job so thought best not to put myself into way of temptation.

new dining room i hadn't heard of, though the original room was nice it would only hold low teens max, think there was about 6 tables plus the private dining room too. my favourite room in there is the 'bar' lounge time just slips by in there, aided and abetted by large brandies usually!

[BertieWooster]

Sent 'em a couple of emails a month or so ago, checking availability for February, and they haven't deigned to reply.

'If you don't want my custom...'