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When two ancient worlds collide.


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Posted

The Special Reserve Cheese and Wine Tasting

Haifa May 20th 2004.

Looking for the ultimate gastronomical experience? This is it.

I am sitting and expressing my emotions on my computer and a small picture is hung shoulder level to my right saying:

“Life is too short to drink Supermarket wine “.

The same is true about cheese. The Big Brother’s big move – industrialization dismissed any connection to the real thing. Now I am not talking about Soya products but dairy stuff sold to the mass consumer under the label “cheese”.

Amusing, yet very sad.

The following cheese and wine matching are about the real thing.

I will try to keep this short as each matching is like an opening to a truly wonderful world.

Bulgarian Cacioavall served with Gewurztraminer Maipo Valley, Undurraga Chile 2000.The sharp strong Ewe’s cheese is beautifully balanced by this lighter version Semi-dry Geruztraminer. Perfect match.

Swiss type Brie served with Chateau Bonnet Entre Deux Mere 2002

The young creamy Brie finds greater complexity when combined with Andre Lourton’s 2002 Ch. Bonnet. The rind may be enjoyed as well as no bitterness results from the combination as often might be felt when enjoyed with other wines. Two great products well matched together.

Valencay served with Vouvray Sauvion 1999.

Remarkable well balanced cheese that takes no prisoners. The older medium dried Vouvray added some minerals and green almonds to the rich creamy complex cheese. The slight notes of Petroleum, detected when tasting the wine on its own, faded away under the guideness of the Valencay. Wow!

Corsica served with Costamolino Argiolas 2002.

Two Mediterranean islands that still maintain tradition and gladly so. The young soft white and black rind cheese shows amazing complexity and character while the yellowish Vermentino from Argiolas supplies an established mattress of dried fruits with an “older” attitude than expected from a 2002.

An enjoyable combination that elevates both items into a higher sphere.

Aveyron style Tavor cheese served with Gruner Veltliner Freie Weingartner Terrassen Thal, Wachau 1999.

Acidity – what would the world of gastronomy do without it?

A full bodied Pate with a sharp well integrated acidity matched by a very well built Veltliner with a strong backbone acidity. This common factor added depth and complexity to the slow chewer while the combination continued to develop several seconds in the mouth ending with a well-balanced aftertaste. Perfect marriage.

Saint Moure served with Valpolicella Valpantena 2002.

One of the best-known chevre cheeses is to counterpart a rather simple North-Eastern Italian wines?

Spot on. The Super value Valpolicella provided all the necessary components to balance this complex, ripe cheese. Good acidity, well balanced fruits and tannins and a medium-short finish. The wines added some heavier more serious flavors while leaving the finish to this reigning cheese. Chapeau for each and together.

Camembert served with Tokaji Furmint 1999.

The sight of a ripe runny Camembert spilling over the plate with sweet lactic and sharper aromas was thrilling. The Hungarian semi-sweet acidic furmint may not be a great wine but was indeed a great match. The cheese respected and complimented the fine Camembert caressing the tongue in a cleansing manner smoothing the dominant flavors. Good show!

Raclette served with Beaujolais Nouveau Albert Bichot 2003.

The moment the heating process of the Raclette commenced, the stink overtook everything. Amazingly, the flavors of this magnificent cheese turned smoother and fruitier. The wine was a good idea but a bad choice. None of the fine acidity this wine was released with had remained and tiny white particles could be noted at the bottom. Lacking enough acidity the Raclette overshadowed this spineless little red with great ease. Great cheese.

Spanish Manchego served with Rioja Conde de Valdemar Crianza 2000.

The so-called inferior mammals seem to make the best of what they have and the best it is. The very difficult and hot terrain of Spain brings us this amazing cheese aged for a year and a half. Full flavored almost crunchy texture with herbs dominating the long and enjoyable finish. Conde de Valdemar fantastic Crianza shed an extra light on this very well built masterpiece. A classic match, best avoid the rind.

Westlander served with Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection Tzora 1995.Ham and cheese? This one has got it all.

Not my cup of tea in terms of texture as the cheese is fairly simple and lacks character yet it seems rightfully so. The ham overtakes and blends in gently to provide a creamy and smoky texture. Tzora’s SP 1995 already soft tannins and well placed long maturing in oak completes full meal through this triangle. The wine posses a great nose with lots of depth that adds in character to this fairly simple cheese. The soft and elegant body comes well balanced with the smoked ham flavor – a feast.

Parmegiano Reggiano served with Cabernet Sauvignon Chateau Ste. Michelle 1996. Nearly three years old, this fully mature world-class cheese is ready to replace ant steak. Breaking this rather big [54kg] wheel released fantastic aromas that dig deep into the soul of fond memories. Chateau Ste. Michelle’s perfectly balanced yet not too complex smooth wine caresses the rich flavors of the Reggiano derived from slow and very enjoyable chewing. Grrrrrrrreat match! Chew away for better life…

Saga blue cheese served with Tokaji Szamorodni Lilki 1996.A beautiful ripe and creamy not overly complex cheese matches a fully matured smooth ant not overly complex sweetish Tokaji. The wine complimented the texture of the cheese with ripe citrus and dried fruits dominating the “bluish” finish with mildly sweet Aszu aromas. Szamorodni means “as they come” in Magyar [with Polish origin] and they can’t come any better than that.

A great experience.

Andre Suidan

I was taught to finish what I order.

Life taught me to order what I enjoy.

The art of living taught me to take my time and enjoy.

Posted

Thank you very much.

I realy confined my writings to these lines not engaging in a full page description for each match.

Andre Suidan

I was taught to finish what I order.

Life taught me to order what I enjoy.

The art of living taught me to take my time and enjoy.

Posted

2003 Beaujolais Nouveau??? You were being kind merely callng it spineless. It's already over the hill and why would there be nouveaus at this thing anyway?

We cannot employ the mind to advantage when we are filled with excessive food and drink - Cicero

Posted
2003 Beaujolais Nouveau??? You were being kind merely callng it spineless. It's already over the hill and why would there be nouveaus at this thing anyway?

The big question for Burgundy winemakers is how do the handle hot weather. The closest year in terms of wather for referance is 1988 in my opinion.

This wine had been acidified and it looks like by Malic rather than tartaric [ resulting in the breaking down and flatenning of the wine ].

I did not expect this to happen at such an early stage and thought to abuse this oppertunity to gulp what was left down.

The rich and dominant chease was a feast by itself and I did not wish any interference in terms of the wine flavors yet the lack of acidity was highly disturbing.

Andre Suidan

I was taught to finish what I order.

Life taught me to order what I enjoy.

The art of living taught me to take my time and enjoy.

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the notes. I quoted Valencay and good demi-sec Vouvray as my favourite match in a recent topic, glad someone agrees.

Sorry for three entries the same, my PC is playing games with me.

Edited by primowino (log)
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