Spanish wine tasting

[Andre]

Spanish Wine Tasting

Special Reserve May 13th 2004.

Whenever Rioja – Spain’s most famous red wine region is mentioned, the first thing that comes to mind is barrel aging. The way things are progressing; this rapidly changing wine region may be in need of a new connotation.

Tradition: the very basic difference between one cultural thing and another. One might argue that tradition is therefore a source for miscomprehensions and disputes, yet it is the finest way to express the fruit of the earth.

So many young and talented winemakers invade the traditional world of wine with clearer, stricter, yet soulless and less experienced systems and earn much praise and compliments, that I find myself worried more and more about the ignorance of the mass consumer and the abuse of the famous critic. Then again what can you expect of species preferring to live an artificial life rather than a natural one?

It seems we are back to stage one very time there is a new revelation.

A father trying to teach his son about his business is likely to be in trouble these days. Lack of proper communication and an outside consultant can bring the best of businesses to their knees. The father, who may lack some of the knowledge possessed by his son, wishes to teach in a multidimensional way rather than the clear, precise and one dimensional system the son is to absorb in schools. The Father’s “Watch and learn” system requires time and attitude today’s youth seem to lack – there goes tradition.

A famous French marketing consultant once said: “respect your father but be ready to kill him”. The gentleman is known to have aided many older companies to regain control of the market.

Such are the troubles traditional wineries are facing worldwide and namely in Spain. The term Bodega –the cellar meant to age the wines and release them when ready to drink is modernizing and fast.

Off we go…

The Whites:

Marques de Riscal Rueda 2000.

Nothing they teach you in wine courses should be taken for granted. This yellowish toward goldish and by far less appealing wine may be ejected by sight alone yet overcoming such “an obstacle” is much worth it.

Dried fruit nose with a focus on apricota and citrus fruits with a pleasant slightly oxidized aromas that seem to add complexity and authenticity.

Soft and smooth on the entry with a good almost chewy body ending with a very well balanced dry finish.

I am happy Marques de Riscal stuck to the region of Rueda and are constantly improving the production of this Verdejo grape [ although some Viura is added lately].

Conde de Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria

A big impressive dry white made from 100% Viura grapes and fermented in oak. A classic oak impression, fully compatible with the acidity and texture of the high quality Viura located at the alto Cantabria.

A pleasure for those not seeking the fruits in white wine with some pefectltly balance sherry aromas.

Enjoyed very much.

The Reds:

Rioja Faustino 7 2002.

A modern fruity red wine with a mildly spiced finish.

Short? So is the wine.

Drink now.

Rioja Conde de Valdemar Crianza 2000.

A wonderful medium bodied Rioja, fairly priced with a good balance between well-integrated tannins, fruity and spicy flavors, acidity and oak.

Good job!

Rioja Faustino Crianza 1999.

Nearly five years old and already tired. This wine lacks the backbone acidity that balances good quality Rioja. Poor barrel aging or storage technique with plenty of off beat tannins.

Skip.

Rioja Faustino 5 1998.

A disappointing Reserva from an able producer. Somehow softer and lacks the intensity and complexity expected from a good Rioja Reserva.

Rioja Conde de Valdemar Reserva 1998

Now that is a very good example of a Rioja Reserva. Medium + body well integrated tannins and spices and a concentrated texture that turn this ine into a drinking pleasure if good meat and time are available.

Deserves high rating.

Rioja Conde de Valdemar Grand Reserva 1996.

A wine to learn aging from.

Perfect balance of this 8 year old wine with plenty of complexity, tannins and acidity to keep it going several more years yet, why wait?

Rioja Finca Valpiedra 1996

Not the perfect wine in terms of balance yet a well constructed single vineyard concentrated Rioja.

The wine needs time to fully develop which makes it more difficult to taste yet much more interesting to drink.

Different than previous years, then again this is what the Valpiedra is all about.

Give it time and enjoy. A wonderful experience.

Gaudium Marques de Caceres 1994.

This wine had me worried for some time.

I realized its potential and had bought several cases of this wine. None of the previous bottles opened over the years showed substantial development and only now it seems that the time has come.

Tannins are finally stepping aside in this modern Rioja to express ripe yet delicate sweet red fruits, good acidity and a lingering complex after taste.

The wine continues to develop over an hour with a less than impressive start and and an elegant and complex finish that turns this wine into a wonderful experience.

Drink 2004-2008.

Rioja Marques de Caceres Grand Reserva 1989.

Slightly brownish with a tired nose? Let it rest.

Light red towards light gold-brownish colors.

The nose is dominated by older oak and spices with mild dried fruits lingering very nicely.

The fruit gain intensity as the wine develops in the glass.

In the mouth the wine is soft on the entry and develops slowly into spicy sweet flavors. Amaretto, herbs and spices linger in the after-taste.

The wine needs no less than 25 minutes in the glass to open up and is excellent with cold meats and aged Manchego and Parmesan cheese. One hour later and the wine fully develops into an emotionally moving older Rioja that portrays the greatness that could be found in simplicity.