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Good and bad


Florida Jim

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2001 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba, Valmaggiore:

This smells warm; with dusty rose and red fruit elements and a bit of earthiness; and, although I could never explain it, it’s so “Italian”/

Medium body with that same dusty rose, red fruit and earth on the palate, dry, moderately complex, graceful; sufficient structure to last and I think, continue to develop, good balance/

Medium length finish.

Served with toasted olive bread with olive oil, a couple hard cheeses and several varieties of olives; a very good pairing, indeed. Both Diane and I agreed that this was a wine of character, authenticity and a delight to smell and taste.

About $23, retail.

2002 Baudry, Chinon Les Granges:

This wine, unlike tastes at release which were vibrantly fruit filled and showed no green at all, is starting to show some green bell pepper elements on the nose and palate and maybe even a bit of char. It is not out of control or dominant nor is it attractive and is a substantial change from earlier bottles. Hold in hopes it will die down a bit.

About $12, delivered.

I had written a note previous about the 2002 S. Quirico, Vernaccia di San Gimignano that was complimentary and I purchased six more bottles. Three of the first four have been lightly corked (all of these were from the same case) so they are all going back. I don’t know if this problem is widespread but I won’t buy anymore of this vintage.

About $8, retail.

2002 Brun Terres Dorees, Beaujolais Blanc:

Sweetly clean and pure chardonnay on the nose/

Medium body with good weight in the mouth, broad flavors that come through clear and concentrated, good structure and balance; well integrated/

Medium length, clean finish.

Enjoyed with pasta prima vera with the emphasis on the word enjoyed. Excellent juice. About $11, delivered.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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